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  1. #1

    Default Guerlain Apres L'Onde

    .......Hard to find in these days, the greatest fragrance of Guerlain. Any suggestion in how to recreate something similar to this Big Violet parfum?

  2. #2

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    Default Re: Guerlain Apres L'Onde

    Alas, thanks to IFRA, Apres l'Ondee has been reformulated. I have not smelled the reformulation, Luca Turin claims it is now more irisy. Don't know if the violet is still there.

    So, in the current IFRA regime, I really don't know how one could recreate it, other of course than checking on ebay and paying top dollars.

    cacio

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    Default Re: Guerlain Apres L'Onde

    High quality Iris and the ionones for violets will be a start but you will need to find a replacement for the heliotrope. Good luck!

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    Default Re: Guerlain Apres L'Onde

    It is certainly possible to create an IFRA compliant violet scent - I have one called Deep Purple in my own Spring Flowers range - ionones are readily available: you will need alpha and beta ionone, isoraldien (or iralia) plus methyl ionone alpha and perhaps something like undecavertol.

    For the iris you can use either a good quality orris butter or you could use alpha-irone, which is lovely too but both of these are expensive.

    Heliotropine isn't restricted by IFRA, but you do need a license to buy it in most countries due to it's use a precursor to MDMA. An alternative that I use is veratraldehyde, which is unrestricted and easier to buy.
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    Default Re: Guerlain Apres L'Onde

    Interesting thanks Chris, I guess Safrole is restricted for the same reason?

    Looking around the notes for Apres L'Onde are bergamot, neroli, aniseed, hawthorn, violet, heliotrope, iris and musk. It is a wonderful perfume. If someone makes a decent scent inspired by it I would buy a bottle!

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    Default Re: Guerlain Apres L'Onde

    I wonder what's the restricted ingredient in the violet note? I always thought violet=ionones.

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    Default Re: Guerlain Apres L'Onde

    Quote Originally Posted by ariodant View Post
    I wonder what's the restricted ingredient in the violet note? I always thought violet=ionones.
    Violet does indeed mean ionones and they are restricted by IFRA (there is a specification standard).

    There is also a restricted standard for methyl ionone but as the limit for alcoholic fragrances is over 30% it's far more than I can ever imagine wanting to use anyway.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Joe C View Post
    Interesting thanks Chris, I guess Safrole is restricted for the same reason?

    Looking around the notes for Apres L'Onde are bergamot, neroli, aniseed, hawthorn, violet, heliotrope, iris and musk. It is a wonderful perfume. If someone makes a decent scent inspired by it I would buy a bottle!
    I would expect that safrole would be restricted in most countries too, yes, but as it is prohibited by IFRA altogether I've never attempted to buy any so I don't actually know.
    Chris Bartlett
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    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

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    Default Re: Guerlain Apres L'Onde

    Mr Bartlett, you are a hero. (Did you see that I met your mum on Twitter?)
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  9. #9

    Default Re: Guerlain Apres L'Onde

    So the notes are: bergamot, neroli, aniseed, hawthorn, violet, heliotrope, iris and musk
    Why not start simple like this:
    12 Bergamot EO
    5 Linalyl acetate
    5 alpha Terpineol
    1 Neroli EO
    2 Aurantiol
    5 Anise EO
    1 Ylang ylang III EO
    8 Anisaldehyde
    10 Methyl ionone
    2 alpha Ionone
    2 Veratraldehyde*
    8 Benzoin resinoid*
    1 Vanillin*
    3 Benzyl salicylate*
    1 Alpha Irone
    5 Celestolide
    5 Ethylene brassylate
    2 Musk keton

    Yes, heliotropin would be nice, but is a bit unpractical, for the reason Chris mentioned. I used the materials with an * to get an alike result.

    Safrole is also carcinogenic, so another reason why it is harder to get and restricted in its use.

    Btw: wrote the formulation down from my mind without mixing and testing, so please asume as a first thought.

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    Default Re: Guerlain Apres L'Onde

    PA sells a heliotropin replacer, but I have no experience with it.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Guerlain Apres L'Onde

    I got both, the replacer is very similar to the real heliotropine. The only thing to mention is that the replacer has a light brown colour.
    Regards

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