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  1. #1

    Default Doubts about a prototype of perfume

    Colleagues,

    thanks to some research, I ran my first attempts at executing perfumes (my doubts will focus on female perfume). I tried a simple execution only with tangerine, geranium and ylang-ylang, in 20% concentration, and a pre-assembled vehicle (well I'm still regretting using him ...). Besides the fact that you have discovered with the vehicle must be customized for each preparation, I would like your opinions on two issues, because I want to try again soon:

    1) What other notes I could add to this combination to improve the original fixation? (I liked the fragrance, but the final result got with this flaw);

    2) The initial project intended to combine features citrus and floral with a sexy tone, despite having quite liked the combination that did, do you think a different basis could be attempted?

    I thank you all for the suggestions, and in need of more information, just ask!

    Note: This is my first post, I count on everyone's patience with some gaffe or mistake of writing.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Doubts about a prototype of perfume

    look at the fragrance families we know, choose the ones you like and attempt to build a base from the most important elements that define their accords

    that way you can move your experiment into chypre, oriental, etc whatever territory you wish

    You won't have a "perfume" by any stretch of the imagination, but you might get a bit further in understanding how to construct a homogenous scent

  3. #3

    Default Re: Doubts about a prototype of perfume

    I meant to reply to this before - sorry - I would encourage you to have a look at the primer thread here as I think it will help you get started.

    For fixation you need proper fixatives - mainly base notes and many of them synthetic - look at musk in particular as you are looking for a sexy tone, muscone is particularly appropriate perhaps with a trace of synthetic civet as well (but only a trace).

    I would also recommend using another floral alongside the yang-ylang, which is a great blender but a bit chemical-smelling on its own - the geranium is a good idea - perhaps a little rose absolute, if you can afford it, would enhance the blend.
    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Doubts about a prototype of perfume

    Dear Chris and Versailles,

    thank you very much for the attention of both.

    Versailles, a homogeneous construction is really something that should be pursued, although on my part, design is something that is being more mental than physical - just a few weeks from now, I'll be with the materials to do more testing fragrances. But be sure to keep trying!

    Chris, I relied on your intervention on this topic, and I knew you would not fail to attend.

    The topic you mentioned was one of the first I read here on Basenotes, and I have revised frequently your content. Inclusive in this space, I learned many techniques that were simply not mentioned in the meager material in my own language that I had accessed.

    Thought I'd add, as I thought in a second attempt, Frankincense to improve fixation of Ylang-Ylang and Tangerine, Neroli or Jasmine (probably synthetics to minimize costs) to refine the Geranium, and a touch of Lime to give more freshness to top . Your suggestion for an animal touch was very opportune, but I think just a touch more of musk would be enough to not turn away from the initial goal of perfume.

    The basic construction Tangerine / Geranium / Ylang-Ylang was very well accepted in terms of fragrance, if I could add materials that add fixation, but do not give the perfume a very elitist tone, I think I'll hit.

    A new attempt will be made soon, as soon as get all the materials, and you'll both (and other colleagues of the forum) made aware of my progress here.

    Thank you all for your attention.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Doubts about a prototype of perfume

    Hi MeneleusBR76,

    perhaps I'll be a little bit more clear with what I meant. Also, just to jump in and say its good practice to try and keep descriptions as objective as possible when communicating like this over the internet. Sexy could be easy enough to understand, but elitist is something we might struggle with on the other side as undoubtedly our cultural experiences are way different to eachothers - what might be elitist to you might smell "old grandma" to me, and might smell modern to Chris, and so on...

    What I suggested earlier was basically completing the pyramid in your scent trial, right now as it stands you've got the top and middle to your pyramid (even though they are very simple!) but you haven't got a basenotes section. Now, largely this is where the fragrance family is defined, well.. not always but lets just keep things simple for now...

    so, what you want to do in my opinion, before doing much modifying of the top and base is maybe figure out what kind of perfume do you want, do you want a clean musky base to go with your fruity floral top, do you want a chypre perfume, perhaps we can turn your 3 notes into a playfully sexy oriental ?

    Knowing that you don't want "elitist" we can choose an oriental theme, again, just for an example. In this case, now that you've proportioned your top and middle to the level you like, you can take a seperate vessel and construct a very basic oriental base. Now you're not going to make Shalimar or anything here, but lets keep it simple.

    Ethyl Vanillin (sweet, playful, vanilla)
    Patchouli (sexy, hippy vibe)
    Benzoin (ambery slightly powdery, sweet)
    Tolu Balsam (resinous, dark, rich)
    Ambroxan
    Tonalide (this is a particularly non "elitist" musk if I had to choose, its playful, youthful and sexy)

    Mix those until you have got one homogenous base smell, easy on the ethyl vanillin and the patchouli, id suggest less tolu more benzoin, but otherwise go wild. Mix them separately in another small bottle! and only stop once you are satisfied with the result even if it takes a few days of adjusting

    then..

    drop by drop add it back to the original until you've got a good "weighting" of the base into your 3 note project

    now seeing that this is an oriental, you might want to add some spices after, but do this only after you've put in the base.

    eugenol + cassia EO maybe or cinnamic alcohol whatever you've got on hand

    at this point you should see more of a "perfume" developing

    basically, a fixative is more psychological than it is scientific, you need something for your perfume to evolve into at each step. Nothing is really going to stop those jasmine molecules from evaporating at they rate they do in nature - but - you will probably continue to perceive them longer if there is a base present, as they will "modify" the base so to speak, even when trace quantities remain on your arm.

    Does this make sense ?

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