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  1. #31

    Default Re: Sample of the day: September 2012

    Quote Originally Posted by forfreddie View Post
    Glad you got round to trying Cuir Ottoman (I forget what I put in people's goodie bags!)
    Yeh it's not an in your face screaming leather like Rien, but a more wearable, plush textured leather with a beautifully smoky vanilla powder base. It's fab in the winter, look forward to hearing how you like it sprayed

    Ali - thanks for your review of Metal, that's one I've been interested in for a while.
    Freddie I agree with you! Thanks to you I've got another Parfum d'Empire to love! Cuir Ottoman is great, a nice, fluffy, orrised leather! GORGEOUS!

  2. #32

    Default Re: Sample of the day: September 2012

    Quote Originally Posted by lucasai View Post
    Freddie I agree with you! Thanks to you I've got another Parfum d'Empire to love! Cuir Ottoman is great, a nice, fluffy, orrised leather! GORGEOUS!
    Lol! I sent you some too? Heck I'm just throwing my juices around....

    giggidy

    Anyway! Glad you're enjoying lucas, can't wait to hear your thoughts on everything else!

  3. #33
    rogalal's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample of the day: September 2012

    I've spent the last couple of weeks working my way through a 14-piece sample box of the early Olympic Orchids scents, but most of them have entries here, so I've been writing my reviews in the database instead of this thread. It's been an interesting set of smells, ranging from charmingly amateurish essential oil blends to really well-thought-out, fully realized perfumes. For the record, my favorite was Olympic Amber, a surprisingly green amber based on labdanum with a woody incense undertone and a hint of Moss Breches green forest floor patchouli.

    After trying most of the line, I can smell that Olympic Orchids has some favorite house notes. There's a sweet, effervescent creme soda accord that turns up in unusual places, a more nuanced smell that they seem to like more than plain vanilla but that serves as the same sort of sweetening agent. A lot of their scents also have a waxy undertone (beeswax absolute??) that's explored the most fully in Golden Cattelya, an extremely waxy acacia/citrus/linden blossom smell that plays around with the inherent similarities and contradictions between wax, honey, flowers,and wood. They like to support their scents with a papery rosewood that reminds me of papyrus or old books, and they also have a specific but unnamed wood note that's supposed to pay tribute to the forests of the Pacific Northwest. I personally guess that it's some sort of eucalyptus, because a lot of their scents start off with a vaguely out-of-place medicinal Vap-O-Rub shine, sometimes really prominent and sometimes just giving a some of their topnotes the illusion of being some sort of perfumey cough drop flavor.

    One of the "cough drop" scents is the one I've been wearing today, Olympic Rainforest. It combines the mystery wood with a sort of minty menthol smell, which gives it a menthol-lyptus flavor. It's also a very "blue" smell, but in a way that I find hard to describe. I remember that I used to buy light blue cough drops, strong medicinal disks in a blister pack that had a very specific "icy blue" flavor. This smells like those, but extremely sweet. Have you ever made vanilla sugar by putting vanilla beans in sugar and just letting it sit until the sugar takes on the vanilla flavor? Well, if some strange person put those blue cough drops in sugar and stored it until the sugar took on the slightly medicinal and icy blue but still bubblegum-sweet smell of those cough drops, it would probably smell like Olympic Rainforest.

    Given a few hours, the sugar smell died down, letting through a nice mix of pine and labdanum, still shiny with the remnants of the "ice blue" smell. I really liked this stage, but the topnotes were an uncomfortable mix of sweet and strange that I could imagine winning over many a niche fan, but that didn't really appeal to me personally. That being said, and apropos of nothing, if they added a huge slug of vetiver and some rose geranium to this, I think it could be absolutely swoon-worthy.

    When I first got this sample box, I unintentionally grabbed a couple of their essential-oil based fruity florals, which kind of scared me away, but now that I've gotten to know the line, I'm fairly impressed. There's a sense of continuity and confident self-reference that shows that someone is putting an awful lot of work into not just creating scents, but a whole cohesive collection. Sure, there are some early works here that show more promise than maturity, but I'd suggest that fans of the better indie perfumers like Neil Morris would probably enjoy this relatively obscure line.

    Oh, and I haven't even made my way into their "Dev" line yet, a series of dark smoky experimental storytelling pieces that I really liked at the San Francisco Artisan Fragrance Salon. I expect those to solidify my respect for the line even more...
    Has everyone checked out my Top 100 Blog??

  4. #34
    teardrop's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample of the day: September 2012

    Today l tried lncense Extreme by Tauer.

    This opens bright & zingy with a beautiful accord of petitgrain & coriander. Unfortunately for me, this wonderful freshness disappears after ten minutes, giving way to a darker, greener impression of pine & a raw, resinous amber. A slightly burnt incense comes to the fore after 40 minutes or so, & from here it stays quite linear, drying down into a woody, ambery, dry incense & settling close to the skin. lt is still there after seven hours when l go for a shower.

    l am sorry to say that after the opening l find this one a bit boring, although at times it does remind me of both Ambre Sultan & L'Air du Desert Marocain. AS is more herbal though, & LADDM far more interesting. For me the drydown did not live up to the opening, & instead just landed on my skin with a dull "thunk", & just sat there without doing anything to further impress me.
    l vastly prefer the "headshop incense" of Le Maroc to this type. l am not familiar with church incense, but if this is what it smells like, it is not as intoxicating as l imagined.
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  5. #35

    Default Re: Sample of the day: September 2012

    Today I sampled:

    Santal Majascule Serge Lutens

    A more mature sibling to Jeux De Peau - Santal Majascule opens very similar, the prominent sandalwood slightly desweetened but re-textured by cocoa, a clean rose making it more "perfume-y", but there still is the sweetness but here created by honey.
    It's nothing original in the Lutens' lineup, but a great example of what he does best, and still, a lovely perfume.

    Full review here

    Fermes Tes Yeux JAR

    One of my favourite openings - a huge animalic duo of castoreum and civet. The overripe indolic florals of ylang-ylang, paired with the cool, crisp herbal notes of clove, eucalyptus, maybe lavender and mint.
    More florals join in - the hammy cold spice of lily, orange blossom and maybe linden - a beeswax and musky drydown piled with leather makes it something extremely challenging, but gorgeous.

    Full review here

  6. #36
    Super Member ladymurasaki's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample of the day: September 2012

    Today I tested Amoureuse. It opened with a blast of, what I can only describe as, "cat wee on grass". I waited for that to fade in the dry down, but it was quite persistent, so I have had to scrub it off. It was too acrid for my taste. I might try it again when I feel brave enough, just to see how it progresses in the extreme dry down.
    Do happy

  7. #37
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    Default Re: Sample of the day: September 2012

    Yesterday, I had an hour before an appointment in the city, so I made a quick sniff around to smell a few new things.

    I enjoyed Houbigant's new Oranger en Fleurs. It was a fairly straightforward orange blossom perfume, lightly indolic and waxy with a subtle darkness underneath (possibly a chypre base? I couldn't tell on paper). It reminded me of Heeley's Fleur d'Oranger, which has a similar floral simplicity over dark waxy undertones.

    The two new Amyris perfumes (his and hers) from Francis Kurkdjian were awful. I'm assuming that Neiman Marcus or some other big customer pushed him to make something more mainstream, because these smelled straight out of Marshalls. The men's one was one of those metallic aquatic "woody amber" lavender scents, complete with that violet grape note so many cheap scents use to smell familiar, while the women's was a peachy fruity floral.

    My pick of the day was the new Diptyque, Volutes, which was the one I ended up wearing. It started out like a leathery iris halfway between Dior Homme and L'Artisan's Iris Pallida (are you drooling yet??), with boozy spices underneath that eventually won over, revealing that Eau Noire/Sables immortelle note (like curry mixed with maple syrup) over leather, rum, and subtle woods, while the lingering iris kept it smooth. Hours later, it ended up as a mix of chamomile and boozy pipe tobacco reminiscent of the tobacco part of Tobacco Vanille or Back In Black, but shaded with the remaining iris and immortelle.

    This was the EDP concentration. Apparently, the EDT is a whole different formulation which is theoretically more "masculine," though I think any perfume guy who's comfortable in basic niche or Dior Homme would find Volutes very wearable. One of my favorite new releases of the year...
    Has everyone checked out my Top 100 Blog??

  8. #38

    Default Re: Sample of the day: September 2012

    Volutes sounds gorgeous I have to try it! Haven't clicked with any Diptyque's yet though

    Today I tested

    Pentachord Verdant by Tauer

    Full review here

    Verdant is interesting - it starts with a toffee/caramelized sugar sweetness and within seconds it turns into a bitter, but clean, earthy vetiver. A mint comes in subtely and gives the fragrance a cool temperature.
    In time as the sweetness subsides a little, the vetiver becomes the most prominant, with a subtle tomato leaf like greenery underneath.
    At the base is a sweet resin smell, like amber and a delicate smoke of incense, with a hit of dry cedar at the end.
    Transparent perfumery at it's best IMO

  9. #39
    rogalal's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample of the day: September 2012

    Pentachord Verdant sounds interesting. Speaking of not "clicking", I have yet to find a Tauer that I really love. I like sweet vetivers, though, so this could be promising. Is it that same resin smell that he uses as sort of a house note?

    As for Volutes and Diptyque, I too haven't found a Diptyque that I've actually bought a full bottle of, though I'm a complete fanatic for their candles. I hated Tam Dao at first, but it's growing on me, though their scented argon body oil that smells like Tam Dao but darker and smokier is more my style. L'Ombre Dans l'Eau can sometimes smell wonderful on me but sometimes is just awful, like a mix of bad breath and cat pee. Volutes is the closest they've come lately to convincing me that I need a bottle.
    Has everyone checked out my Top 100 Blog??

  10. #40

    Default Re: Sample of the day: September 2012

    Quote Originally Posted by rogalal View Post
    Pentachord Verdant sounds interesting. Speaking of not "clicking", I have yet to find a Tauer that I really love. I like sweet vetivers, though, so this could be promising. Is it that same resin smell that he uses as sort of a house note?

    As for Volutes and Diptyque, I too haven't found a Diptyque that I've actually bought a full bottle of, though I'm a complete fanatic for their candles. I hated Tam Dao at first, but it's growing on me, though their scented argon body oil that smells like Tam Dao but darker and smokier is more my style. L'Ombre Dans l'Eau can sometimes smell wonderful on me but sometimes is just awful, like a mix of bad breath and cat pee. Volutes is the closest they've come lately to convincing me that I need a bottle.
    It is interesting If you like sweet vetiver and don't mind a bit of transparency, I think you'll really enjoy it. It is KIND of the same resin smell - but not really it isn't that kind of warm, amber spicy incense, it's quite a new take on it down to a single aromachemical as the Pentachord series are made up of just 5 molecules per fragrance, so it's much more stripped back. It's cleaner and much less intense here. You wouldn't instantly recognize it as a "Tauer".

  11. #41
    teardrop's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample of the day: September 2012

    Today l tried Commando by Smell Bent, thanks again to freddie .

    l get a momentary whiff of aldehyde in the opening, followed by a leathery, dirty musk with just a touch of sweetness. Over the first half hour, l detect a note of something cool & minty in the mix, before the tonka bean note comes to the fore. ln the drydown it becomes a warm, sweet, animalic skin scent with a powdery base. The sillage is low to moderate, & it lasts around six hours before fading.

    This one appeals to my fairly new-found love of animalic scents, & l enjoyed the combination of the dirty musk note with the sweetness of tonka. l would like a little more projection, but again this may be helped by spraying rather than dabbing.
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  12. #42

    Default Re: Sample of the day: September 2012

    Quote Originally Posted by teardrop View Post
    Today l tried Commando by Smell Bent, thanks again to freddie .

    l get a momentary whiff of aldehyde in the opening, followed by a leathery, dirty musk with just a touch of sweetness. Over the first half hour, l detect a note of something cool & minty in the mix, before the tonka bean note comes to the fore. ln the drydown it becomes a warm, sweet, animalic skin scent with a powdery base. The sillage is low to moderate, & it lasts around six hours before fading.

    This one appeals to my fairly new-found love of animalic scents, & l enjoyed the combination of the dirty musk note with the sweetness of tonka. l would like a little more projection, but again this may be helped by spraying rather than dabbing.
    Yay! Glad you enjoyed it, everyone I have sent samples of this out to has hated it - and said it smelt like crotch.
    I love Commando, although it's difficult to wear, a spray is very overwhelming and it does project like a beast for a few hours. Definitely a must have for the price though, it's my favourite musk so far - direct, animalic, and sweet

  13. #43
    teardrop's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample of the day: September 2012

    Quote Originally Posted by forfreddie View Post
    Yay! Glad you enjoyed it, everyone I have sent samples of this out to has hated it - and said it smelt like crotch.
    I love Commando, although it's difficult to wear, a spray is very overwhelming and it does project like a beast for a few hours. Definitely a must have for the price though, it's my favourite musk so far - direct, animalic, and sweet
    lf this stuff smells like crotch, then it's the sweetest, yummiest crotch everrrrrrrr!

    Thanks freddie for enabling me to try things that l might have been scared off from otherwise, just from reading people's opinions. l never thought l would enjoy this kind of thing, but "direct, animalic & sweet" seems to do it for me!
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  14. #44

    Default Re: Sample of the day: September 2012

    Quote Originally Posted by teardrop View Post
    lf this stuff smells like crotch, then it's the sweetest, yummiest crotch everrrrrrrr!

    Thanks freddie for enabling me to try things that l might have been scared off from otherwise, just from reading people's opinions. l never thought l would enjoy this kind of thing, but "direct, animalic & sweet" seems to do it for me!
    Haha! That's what I thought!

    Aww no thank youuuu for actually trying them and taking the time to write - I really appreciate that. You've put a grin on my face haha - that's what I'm hear for - polluting noses across the country >

  15. #45
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    Default Re: Sample of the day: September 2012

    Today I tried a sample of Musch Ravageur by Frederic Malle. Damn, this juice is good. It is not at all linear as I have read on several posts. It's complex and transforms to an unforgettable dry down. I am definitely getting a bottle of this.

  16. #46
    teardrop's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample of the day: September 2012

    Quote Originally Posted by forfreddie View Post
    polluting noses across the country >
    Haha, that ought to be your tagline!

    Today l tried Must de Cartier, from a spray sample sent by the lovely kalli .

    To my nose, the opening is a very retro-style bergamot-aldehyde combo, & as it smooths out, it is almost Shalimar-like in feel, with orange replacing the lemon. There's a little spice, a little wood, some sweet amber & a subtle touch of civet in the heart. After an hour, the vanilla & tonka bean add more sweetness, & it dries down to a sweet, woody-musky base. The projection is low, & three hours in it fades very close to the skin, but lasts overall around nine hours.

    l have read some reviews comparing this to Obsession, but l find this one much lighter even than the discontinued Sheer version, which l am am fortunate to own a bottle of. l also don't get the chocolate note that many have mentioned. A very nice, warm oriental nonetheless, if a little too quiet for my taste.

    - - - Updated - - -

    l realise it is now October, but l tried this one on Saturday, during the downtime; L'Eau Ambree by Prada.

    l get a faint whiff of citrus in the opening, followed by a soapy, dry & powdery amber. This is a very light & soft amber that doesn't really develop, except for a touch more sweetness in the base. lt never becomes syrupy or cloying however, & although it seems to stay close to the skin, it gives off subtle wafts of a very pleasant kind every so often, fading out after around six hours.

    A little too simple & quiet for me to really love it, but l think this would this would make a very "office-appropriate" fragrance, & l'm sure it would be most unlikely to offend anyone.

    Someone please feel free to start the October thread!
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

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