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  1. #1

    Default September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Please join us in sniffing blind -- I know there a Chandler Burr thing going on right this moment, but we have been first at it and have covered over one hundred fragrances in the last 5 years.

    The theme for September Blind Sniff is Acquired Tastes. If you have not read Peter Mayle excellently witty book with the same name subtitled Expensive Habits in the most recent editions, please do yourself a favor and check it out in the library (or read selected pages from Amazon).

    What tastes are acquired while sniffing fragrances? Not only we become very selective (choosy picky hard to please) in regards with the quality of the ingredients used, we develop certain fondnesses towards rare and unusual components, start distinguishing between the multiple variations (Virginia cedar, Madagascar vanilla, etc) of the aromachemicals, and pay more and more attention to the blending techniques. Truffles, as we know them, are one of the three most expensive foods (with saffron and caviar), but not everybody can delight in eating them.

    Twolf is hosting, cacio who provided the vials and moral support, also knows what's in the packages.
    Blind Sniffers are: meowmo, Irina and Sybarite.

    Everybody else, please kindly join us in reading, discussing and guessing.

  2. #2

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    I'm not even participating but so excited haha, will be following this closely to understand the jist of it more for my turn later on!

  3. #3

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    DO participate, please. While reading the sniffers' descriptions of the fragrances, try to make your own educated guesses. Ask questions. Send PMs. We have had sniffs where the spectators would guess earlier than the actual sniffers, we have also had sniffs where a spectator sent me their ideas on what to specifically sniff for and the list of what it might have been. It is not just three people sniffing, it is a dynamic process for everyone who can read.

  4. #4

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    I will definitely drop by every now and then.

  5. #5

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Thank you for supporting us. The person largest sniffing organ is between their ears, and believe it not, it is not their nose.

  6. #6

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Oh gosh - Wolfie is hosting this go 'round? Y'all are in for a dooooooozy!

    The theme looks fantastic, of course ...very intriguing. I'll drop by when I can, too!

    Good luck sniffers!!
    Science is not only compatible with spirituality, it is a profound source of spirituality. When we recognize our place in an immensity of light-years and in the passage of ages, when we grasp the intricacy, beauty, and subtlety of life, then that soaring feeling, that sense of elation and humility combined, is surely spiritual. ..Carl Sagan

  7. #7
    Basenotes Junkie anomie et ivoire's Avatar
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    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Exciting topic! I'll be getting the recommended book and following the blind sniffers' posts with interest. With cacio and Twolf involved, we're bound to learn a lot.

  8. #8
    happy is the bleu heart<3
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    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Great theme! Some fragrances are an acquired taste, for sure. Good luck, everyone!
    I've trademarked the color bleu

  9. #9

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Sybarite tells me he will be home tonight. Hopefully to find the package and start sniffing already.

    Why don't we start today?

    Please, dear sniffers, tell us all what you smell in A . General impressions, associations, notes, accords, development(s), comparisons, whatever you find necessary for a person who has never sniffed A to get an idea of what it is.

    (Irina goes first with her impressions of A, then Meow will be first for B, and Sybarite will be first for sample C, OK?)

  10. #10

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Ok, found it Twolf, so no need to direct me here. ...

    And as mentioned in my PM, I believe your parcel's arrived & waitin for me at home, so we're practically good to go. (Yay !)


    Firstly, l'd just like to extend my apologies to Meowmo & Irina for the hold up - Sorry 'guys' ! (*sheepish-grin*)

    And to THANK Twolf & Cacio for hosting the Sniff !!! ...


    .... So, now that we're all here, how do we kick this aquired-tastes-sniff-a-thon off then T & C ???

    - - - Updated - - -

    EDIT : Oops, I see we were typing at the same time ... AND ... you have already just told us how to 'kick-off'.

    Can't wait to get home and get into 'Sample C'. ... Will report back as soon as I get my shnozz on it ...
    Last edited by Sybarite; 6th September 2012 at 03:21 AM.
    ...

    "The earth laughs in flowers" - (E.E.Cummings)

    ------------------------------------------

  11. #11
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    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    I will stay tuned. BN blind sniffs are the best!
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  12. #12

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Getting ready! A little suggestion/warning about A. It is not an acquired taste in the sense of sec mag or kouros, so you can happily wear it for the day if you so wish. But: it is extremely potent - so apply accordingly if you're going to work. For a friday night out, though, it's hard to beat.

    cacio

  13. #13
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    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    OK, cacio, now I am intrigued...
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  14. #14

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Mmm, potent..I like that! Hehe, have fun on this sniff guys!
    "One gives freely, yet grows all the richer; another withholds what he should give, and only suffers want." Proverbs.

  15. #15

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Spray carefully, folks, for once you spray it on, there's no going back ...

    cacio

  16. #16

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Sybarite, in case I was not very clear -- we are all working on a potent (*smile*) Sample A now, including you, Irina is the first to write about her impressions. You can add yours too. You can also write entirely different impressions from hers, but they have to be about sample A.

    After it is guessed, we will all be working on sample B, and the person I would recommend to write about her impressions first is Meowmo. You and Irina will be adding your own thoughts, perhaps in multiple posts (about sample B) too.

    After sample B is figured out, we will all be wearing Sample C. With C, I would like to hear not Irina's or Meowmo's, but YOUR impressions first. Somehow I do not believe it will be today or tomorrow.

    I hope it clears some unnecessary confusion.
    Last edited by Twolf; 6th September 2012 at 11:48 AM.

  17. #17

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Okay this sounds like fun
    I have a break and I have written some of my impressions on the first sniff upon receiving it.

    A is very powerful and very feminine. Something I wouldn't wear myself, but can appreciate. Very loud and heavy with a bit of vintage feel, it has some power house elements in there (the 80's) with the classic very loud and now hard to find nitro musks. There is some soapy jasmine with rose combination, classic floral chypre as I can definitely smell some oak moss in there. I wouldn't say it's a vintage per se as it does feel modern with a mother load of aldehydes on top. It may be some Chanel stuff, will need to sniff the ones I have in my collection. But it also may be some of the older Poison variety. There is some fruit in there as well, powdery peach or apricot, but not in a Mitsouko kind of way.
    And the major headache upon first sniff is there as well, meaning the Iso E Super variety will be listed as 'woody amber' or 'cedarwood' or takes the place of labdanum in the chypre part. There is some faint patchouli as well fitting the brief.

    I haven't tried the new perfume of Dita Von Teese but I can imagine it would be something like that.

    I sprayed it on a perfume strip a few days ago and I can't see much development. The fragrance comes all the once in its fullness and slowly fades a bit but the character (strong powdery musk) remains.

    Here are some visuals that convey how A feels to me:
    2strong.jpg thatcher.jpg WomanCig_446888.jpg america-next-top-model-antm-season-12-aminat-green-powder.jpg

    Hope to share more soon
    Thank you for having me
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  18. #18

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Wonderful, Rosie the Riveter -- a muscle girl -- and Femme Totale at that, takes the grand prize.

    Two other sniffers, chime in, please.

  19. #19

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Quote Originally Posted by Twolf View Post
    Wonderful, Rosie the Riveter -- a muscle girl -- and Femme Totale at that, takes the grand prize.
    Yes indeed, I will add other adjectives at that (all meant positive/empowering): butch, bossy, dominatrix, bitch, feminist
    Customized consultancy on perfume formulation, safety, training and marketing & olfactory research
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  20. #20

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Great insights Irina, I think you nailed it on several dimensions. Powerhouse, 80s style (though it need not be from that decade). The reference to Poison is interesting because my previous post was actually an obscure citation (clear only to me and to the few other people that use the same references) that started as: ".. like Poison and ..., use carefully ... there's no coming back". So we definitely get the vibe.

    In terms of notes, I agree with your notes, but I just checked fragrantica and it's a little strange. There are very many notes in there (so complex is the perfume), but not some of what I think obvious. Yes to jasmine and patch, and some fruit (but not the ones you've listed); oakmoss is not listed there (strange), nor is cedarwood or woody amber.

    To give some further help, I must say that some of the cultural associations could be misleading. In fact, I'd say feminism is out of the picture.

    But I'm overstepping Twolf...

    cacio

  21. #21

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Cacio, you are doing just fine. Helped me out a lot while I was away, actually. Great recap on the structure, references, notes, and cultural allusions.

    Now we would like to hear from our other two sniffers, please? What do you sniff? What do you think while sniffing?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Anyone would like to make a guess at this stage?

  22. #22

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Thank you, Cacio for the insights Hope I'm not the only one to check in regularly. Not so much interested in guessing as I would not wear/buy this. But I am intrigued

    Maybe the hosts can give some other clues? Like what movement or art? Niche or designer? 1 or more perfumers? etc.
    Customized consultancy on perfume formulation, safety, training and marketing & olfactory research
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  23. #23

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Movement of art -- historical expressionism.

    Niche or designer -- I will let you guys discuss among yourselves, right here. But we need other sniffers to post something, at least. I do not know why there is lack of responses. We need more impressions, please?

    Have you waited until the dryout? Does the drydown change your point of view that sample A has chypre tendencies?

    - - - Updated - - -

    I will go now and work some more. I will be home in another 4 hours. Sybarite, you please post something, OK?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Oh yeah, and I chose that order (Irina first with A, Meowmo -- with B and Sybarite -- first with C) on purpose -- I tried to do the research and pick the ones that would be the least favorite of the three for each of you to describe.

  24. #24

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Quote Originally Posted by Twolf View Post
    Movement of art -- historical expressionism.

    Niche or designer -- I will let you guys discuss among yourselves, right here. But we need other sniffers to post something, at least. I do not know why there is lack of responses. We need more impressions, please?

    Have you waited until the dryout? Does the drydown change your point of view that sample A has chypre tendencies?

    - - - Updated - - -

    I will go now and work some more. I will be home in another 4 hours. Sybarite, you please post something, OK?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Oh yeah, and I chose that order (Irina first with A, Meowmo -- with B and Sybarite -- first with C) on purpose -- I tried to do the research and pick the ones that would be the least favorite of the three for each of you to describe.
    Thank you I gave it another sniff and I'm fine tuning. Jasmine> gardenia> ylang? There is some water or watery floral note there too (=florhydral that sometimes gets marketed as water lily or lotus) Fruit: bergamot/lemon/mandarin and some kind of berries (black currant)? There is vanilla and maybe chocolate, some gourmand spices with an earthy vibe (reminds me a bit of truffles?). There is incense too. Are you sure no amber? The Iso E Super may also be listed/marketed as vetiver and sandalwood?

    Does this make more sense? I get an oriental vibe now and less bitchy

    Sorry major headache now, need to stop, time to bed for me anyways

    Ow and THANK YOU, dearest Twolf for teasing us
    Customized consultancy on perfume formulation, safety, training and marketing & olfactory research
    I also offer individual online personalised advice on perfume making to anyone eager to learn how to smell and design like a pro
    www.irinatudor.nl

    Social platform & research network on all things smelly, daily smelly science twitter feed @SomethingSmelly
    www.somethingsmelly.com


    The facts on IFRA restrictions & EU regulations

  25. #25

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Oops so sorry 'guys', I was a little later than expected getting back home. BUT on a positive note, parcel was indeed waiting for me at home, so I do have the samples. (Yipee !)

    However, I've just realised that for my very first blind-sniff I've had the hard luck of being paired with a veritable "professional-notes-detector" (i.e. Irina) - which is rather intimidating to say the least. And so much so in fact, that I think just the thought of it has got my nose somewhat retreating with it's 'tail between it's legs'. (LOL) Or else I don't quite kno' what else to blame for my nose being so dumb-struck, as it seems. ... I mean, I don't think I'm too bad on detecting notes usually, I even pride myself on it. ~ Or else, I've just got me my very first blind-sniff rude awakening & it's the whole starting from a reverse point of view, i.e. blind - and the whole not knowing what the actually notes are first, that just makes them so much harder to detect, if you don't kno what you're looking for beforehand.

    Ok ... ahem ... let's see ... what can I say about 'Sample A' then ... (???)

    First I'll start by saying I haven't got the first clue what it is. ... And all I got in that initial onslaught (which is indeed 'potent', as Cacio put it) - no exaggeration there. ... I could get nothing but aldehydes & musk. - Musk, musk & more MUSK !!

    And then it stayed like that for a good 3/4 of an hour or so. (Altho' it remained more like so on paper than it did on skin.) - On skin the aldehydes finally started to recede, and it slowly opened up a little so you can start making out some notes breaking thru the everpresent 'musk-mask'. ... The musk never goes away, and yes they also felt somewhat of the 'nitro-muskish' variety to me. And yes I agree with Irina in that the first thought I got was that it did have a 'Chanel-ish' vibe to it for me too. Altho I couldn't place which one exactly, so I don't think it actually is a Chanel, altho if it were to turn out to be one let's say I wouldn't be surprised. ...
    It also stated to loose it's 'Chanel-ness' for me as it progressed. (So perhaps it was the 'aldehydes' lending it that vibe for me ???) ... And as it progressed these are the only notes I managed to detect peeking thru : the usual rose and jasmine combo. Altho' the rose is subtle, it's not a "ROSE" feature. Just subtle rose as more part of a general 'floral' heart. Perhaps a bit of ylang-ylang and violet too (?) Tho I'm not entirely sure 'bout the violets as they were there some minutes and then not again. Like peek-a-boo-violet. - So ... ???
    I could detect some soft fruits, but subtle almost like 'peach-skin', but that could almost be more like in 'texture' than actual fruit itself (again ?) - as it's in no way a 'fruity perfume' as such. ... I could also detect a soft patchouli, but it's a subtle and clean patch. (Unless it gets more apparent towards the drydown (?) which I've not entirely reached yet.) ~ But then I'm also rather quite a 'patch-whore', so unless it's rather full-on, it tends to always feels rather too subtle & 'scrubbed' for me. But, no, the path is soft and subtle to my nose. ... And there is definitely lots more going on here that I've just got NO IDEA about just yet.
    So far it doesn't feel very 'woody', or even slightly woody (or at least not "yet" anyway) for me. Tho I'm sure I sense a touch of vetiver coming thru (?) ... What STILL remains tho' is the general musk signature - it's still here, and it ain't going anywhere (AND it's a rather clean musk too - NO raunch here ! - which is rather unfortunate)

    BUT that is all I'm going to say for now ... I'm going to concentrate a little longer, & wait for it to progress and drydown some more before I say anything else. ... (But it is starting to feel somewhat more familiar to me now - tho' I still think I've never encountered it before.) .... Turning it over for a bit ... Over to you Meowmo


    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Twolf View Post
    [snip] ... Oh yeah, and I chose that order (Irina first with A, Meowmo -- with B and Sybarite -- first with C) on purpose -- I tried to do the research and pick the ones that would be the least favorite of the three for each of you to describe.
    Twolf I must absolutely congratulate you on the above. If that is what you intended then I must say that I'm surprised and MOST pleased to tell you that you absolutely NAILED it !! ~ 'Sample C' is indeed the sample I liked least (& by FAR ! - In fact, without wanting to insult anyone, I think it's just plain dire, just awful !) - and it would indeed be the one I'd least like to describe for sure. - So someone give Wolfie a medal here ! (*standing-ovation*)

    - - - Updated - - -

    P.S. ... You know, I don't kno if it's because I can't smell past the 'musk' , but I can't seem to decide weather I do think this is a chypre structure or not. ... At first I didn't think it was. - But then as it progressed it started to have more of a slight "vintage-y" vibe to it, and then it almost did feel somewhat 'chypre-ish' for a while. ... But then at the same time I'm not really detecting any of the requisite 'bergamot-top & oakmoss-base' - not at all - so therefore no, I don't think it is one after all. (??) No definitely NOT a chypre ! ... But it could be cause the musk is just masking everything else for me. ...

    I was almost thinking , you know this is probably what I'd expect Narciso Rodriguez For Her EDP to smell like - (BUT this is not a guess as such, as I have never actually smelled it before. - But having never smelt it, this is what I'd expect NR to smell like, for some reason. - Must be all the 'musk' I presume.)

    ALSO ~ ... I think I've just got me some Vanilla notes peeping in at the bottom ... (?)
    Last edited by Sybarite; 7th September 2012 at 07:54 AM.
    ...

    "The earth laughs in flowers" - (E.E.Cummings)

    ------------------------------------------

  26. #26

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Excellent, we have some more notes. As said, this is so complex that all the notes mentioned are probably in, but fragrantica has a strange list of notes. Anyway, yes to vanilla, sandalwood and vetiver in the drydown, and ylang ylang. I do feel that incense is part of the equation, but it's not listed there.

    Also another step in the right direction is the classification as floral oriental. This is definitely an important hint. Perhaps some chypre-ish tendencies, but definitely not a chypre in the traditional sense.

    As you think, pay attention also to the non-olfactory hints we've dropped here and there. And feel free to pm guesses, guesses are free... Other food for thought: niche or non-niche?

    cacio

  27. #27

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Thank you, cacio.

    Let's hear from Meowmo.

    Sybarite, please use the black color, various colors are distracting and hard on these eyes. Thanks.

    That's the plan: to hear first from the people who like Fragrance ____ least, and wait for everybody else to discuss and argue.

    We have not had any guesses yet.
    Last edited by Twolf; 7th September 2012 at 01:41 AM.

  28. #28

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Oops sorry about the diff. colours' T' - and here I thought I was making things better.

    Ok I'm really glad that it is a floriental (altho' I find it rather light on the 'oriental' side quite frankly) as I would have gotten worried if I had not recognised it as a chypre had it been one, which I was pretty sure it was not. ... Persoannly I would have classified it as a 'floral-musk'.

    I didn't get any of the sandalwood (altho maybe that is still coming ?? the very last to remain on skin) ... What I got most in the drydown was vetiver over light vanilla and that was pretty much it. (And the faintest trace of musk still which is now more 'laundry' musk.)

    Personally I find this rather quite strongly leaning towards the feminine side. And I'm not sure I would wear it. (Not cause it's too 'femme' or anything) but rather cause I'm just not particularly a fan. The musk was just far too much for me. (And not that I've got anything against musk either, but this particular musk yes. Which was just unrelenting.

    You know I wouldn't even kno were to start guessing. ... But I'll start with : I'd say this is not a niche frag , but feels far more designer to me. ... (As a side note, based on just a very brief cursory sniff, only 'Sample B' seems like it could be a 'niche' frag to me.)

    - - - Updated - - -

    I got no amber in the drydown at all , and you mention incense Cacio, but I must admit I didn't get any incense either. ...
    But I do think there was also maybe some other floral notes that I've missed out, I don't think gardenia, but perhaps lily-of-the-valley ? - Was there any l-o-t-v by any chance ??
    Last edited by Sybarite; 7th September 2012 at 05:52 AM.
    ...

    "The earth laughs in flowers" - (E.E.Cummings)

    ------------------------------------------

  29. #29

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Quote Originally Posted by Sybarite View Post
    However, I've just realised that for my very first blind-sniff I've had the hard luck of being paired with a veritable "professional-notes-detector" (i.e. Irina) - which is rather intimidating to say the least. And so much so in fact, that I think just the thought of it has got my nose somewhat retreating with it's 'tail between it's legs'. (LOL) Or else I don't quite kno' what else to blame for my nose being so dumb-struck, as it seems. ... I mean, I don't think I'm too bad on detecting notes usually, I even pride myself on it. ~ Or else, I've just got me my very first blind-sniff rude awakening & it's the whole starting from a reverse point of view, i.e. blind - and the whole not knowing what the actually notes are first, that just makes them so much harder to detect, if you don't kno what you're looking for beforehand.
    Sweetie, please don't do that *hug* I'm just in training and I know for sure that many BN-ers are better at this than I am. For example when I have detected a specific aromachemical it's hard for me to smell pass it and see the whole again. Like with the green touch for me (Iso E Super + veramoss) my mind can't decide between calling it vetiver, sandalwood, oakmoss etc. meaning I've been 'taken by the nose' LOL

    (and for some reason, maybe it's the English, on the net I come across harsher, irl I'm a shy, nerdy, enthusiast mad scientist that loves to hug and bake)

    So please do disagree with me, that's only helping me to learn!

    Another issue with such threads (I've seen it with CB's project too) is that one can hardly resist being influenced by what others have already written about it.

    I'll do a note search in fragrantica just for fun later
    So far this have been confirmed by Cacio:
    floriental
    jasmine
    patchouli
    ylang
    vetiver
    sandalwood
    vanilla

    I would also guess niche as it's nothing I have smelled lately at Sephora's or the drugstore. But then again I only have a small collection of mainly samples.
    Last edited by Irina; 7th September 2012 at 06:49 AM.
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  30. #30

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Ok this is REALLY strange , but I've just resprayed S-A once again, as it had completely died. AND surprisingly I am liking it a hell of a lot more this time around. But not only that but it is smelling COMPLETELY different to me now. Now I'm not getting anywhere near as much musk as before and not getting anywhere as much rose, and also much less aldehydes. . ...

    BUT what I did get first this time was a massive jasmine and ylang-ylang blast more than anything else at the start. Still get no citruses. And I can identify the fruit at all.

    Do I have to give guesses via PM rather, by the way ??
    ...

    "The earth laughs in flowers" - (E.E.Cummings)

    ------------------------------------------

  31. #31

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    See how stingy I am with note confirmation? LOL (Love "love to hug and bake" BTW).

    We were waiting for Meowmo to share her views, but you both guys are leaning towards -- and now Sybarite points it out -- that watery floral (lotus of sorts) IS Lily of the valley -- and to my tastes (acquired or not!) it is the part of the fragrance showing the blending craftsmanship, as LotV serves as a bridge between the bright and fizzy start towards the rich floral heart.

    Overall, the notes you are recapping, Irina, are correct. There are far more notes though, some of them have been mentioned by both of you and some of them are still to be discovered. That musky feeling you were also both talking about, is caused by the combination of factors though, not nitromusks alone. Note-wise, you guys are more than half-way through.

    We have two different opinions now about A being niche or non-niche. Need Meowmo to make her vote. Or, perhaps, each of you to elaborate on your satements.

    Thanks for your time and effort.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Yes, guesses by PM (once again, shows how much homework you have done in preparation to Blind Sniffs). LOL

    - - - Updated - - -

    Yes, it also took me three- four tries to get the feel of this fragrance and what used to be aversion of sorts, became, erm, fondness.... I am probably talking too much already.

    - - - Updated - - -

    We have got the first guess, incorrect one.

  32. #32

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Twolf, you naughty tease I really wish I had more time to read more about your 'Acquired Tastes' Pm-ed you my first guess sponsored by fragrantica LOL

    Sniffing again, I think the powdery stuff is iris/violets of some sort. I think it's cleverly done as iris + violets + jasmine + lily of the valley often generate that 'granny smell' that so many perfumista's seem to detest.
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  33. #33

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    By the way was my 'peach' incorrect T' ??

    I've managed to smell subtle peek-a-boo-violets ... but must admit have not yet detected much orris. Tho I wouldn't be surprised if it's in here somewhere.


    Boo Hoo ! ... This is difficult guessing coz I just don't think I've ever smelled this before, so I have got nothing to draw from. (Even tho I must admit it is feeling somewhat more familiar this 2nd time around. I'm getting small glimpses of deja-vu. (But that could be just coz I smelled it all of yesterday - duh.) (LOL)
    Last edited by Sybarite; 7th September 2012 at 08:09 AM.
    ...

    "The earth laughs in flowers" - (E.E.Cummings)

    ------------------------------------------

  34. #34

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    What colour is the juice peeps?

  35. #35

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Quote Originally Posted by mumsy View Post
    What colour is the juice peeps?
    Green. That's why I thought oakmoss... But it could be coloring or other tiny bits of diluted naturals like so many absolutes.

    I was wondering about the part that the host plays in the selection and the theme: Twolf, did you select these particular perfumes because you personally love them? If yes or no, why? Would love to hear from the people that actually LOVE this stuff, what makes it so lovable to you? Or interesting, or artful, or special...
    Customized consultancy on perfume formulation, safety, training and marketing & olfactory research
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  36. #36

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    For a number of reasons: I am too picky and do not LOVE many fragrances, just a handful. Most of the samples I test these last two and half years are not because I am in need of a new perfume, but because 1) I would like to know where is the industry going (to h*ll in a handbasket?); 2) for personal widening of the scope of olfactory visions. Sample A I find artful, however we have many BNers who find it special coming from this house, worth the money and/or LOVE it. Which brings me to the next point: how much do you think people would pay for a bottle of A?

    I have got 7 PMs. Will answer them all, OK? Please be patient with me and thanks for your patience with Meowmo.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Ding ding ding! We have got us a winner -- actually two winners! -- both Irina and mumsy were able to correctly identify Sample A.

    Thanks for playing.

    Irina, I have been reading what you are writing here and on another thread (The Untitleds) with interest. Amazing nose, associations, imagery.

    Anyone else would like to send their guesses -- I will be at home all day. Thanks.
    Last edited by Twolf; 7th September 2012 at 11:22 AM.

  37. #37

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    OMG I'm blushing here *hugs & cake for everyone!*
    Now I'm looking at reviews of it as I haven't smelled this till now, so thank you, Twolf! You have indeed some acquired taste

    (and now I understand a lot more of the notes I couldn't place so I'll be in the lab doing more chems sniffing yum!)

    I hold my mouth now and let others play
    Customized consultancy on perfume formulation, safety, training and marketing & olfactory research
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  38. #38

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    It is you sniffers that are good. You isolated oodles of notes straight away.

  39. #39

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Thank you, everybody. Irina, cacio (and I wrote him a PM not to do so! LOL) confirmed a lot of notes you have mentioned, but both of you have meniotned more notes that were not confirmed which does not necessarily mean they are not present in Sample A. Both of you seem to have correctly identified the fragrance A movement -- from the bright assertive chypre --> to a huge floral bouquet --> to the subtle Oriental scent. That ending, actually, is totally confusing for me and if it were not there, I would say it would have improved the fragrance making it just a floral with chypre tendencies.

    Sybarite has been awake for many hours straight and is taking a well-deserved nap right now. Hope, he will be able to guess, fresh and rested. You are moving in the right direction though. In general, I find it worth mentioning that A (as well as many other offerings from this house) are somewhat capricious while sitting on different skins. Much depends on your diet, habits, modus operandi in general (despite the popular theory by LT and others).

    Meowmo..... *sigh* We will wait for her to write something during today. Lat time she checked BN was yesterday around 10 am my time, 3 pm yours. Meantime, since she goes first with Sample B, everybody will wait. Please? If she chooses not to show up at all, well, I will send Samples B and C to mumsy and it normally takes 4-5 days for the packages to reach the UK from here. Then we will wait again. More hassle for me. On the other hand, we have had one sniffer already disappear in the middle of the sniff in August. Sometimes we embark on more than we can chew.
    Last edited by Twolf; 7th September 2012 at 01:08 PM.

  40. #40

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Quote Originally Posted by Twolf View Post
    Thank you, everybody. Irina, cacio (and I wrote him a PM not to do so! LOL) confirmed a lot of notes you have mentioned, but both of you have meniotned more notes that were not confirmed which does not necessarily mean they are not present in Sample A. Both of you seem to have correctly identified the fragrance A movement -- from the bright assertive chypre --> to a huge floral bouquet --> to the subtle Oriental scent. That ending, actually, is totally confusing for me and if it were not there, I would say it would have improved the fragrance making it just a floral with chypre tendencies.

    Sybarite has been awake for many hours straight and is taking a well-deserved nap right now. Hope, he will be able to guess, fresh and rested. You are moving in the right direction though. In general, I find it worth mentioning that A (as well as many other offerings from this house) are somewhat capricious while sitting on different skins. Much depends on your diet, habits, modus operandi in general (despite the popular theory by LT and others).

    Meowmo..... *sigh* We will wait for her to write something during today. Lat time she checked BN was yesterday around 10 am my time, 3 pm yours. Meantime, since she goes first with Sample B, everybody will wait. Please? If she chooses not to show up at all, well, I will send Samples B and C to mumsy and it normally takes 4-5 days for the packages to reach the UK from here. Then we will wait again. More hassle for me. On the other hand, we have had one sniffer already disappear in the middle of the sniff in August. Sometimes we embark on more than we can chew.
    I hope you'll wake up rested, Sybarite (I just see that you are a man, so kudos to you for trying A! )

    So sorry Twolf, @Meowmo come on! It is a huge task you've undertaken, I still think that one should pay some $ to join, even if it's just to cover the basic costs like shipping and packaging. One cannot expect such generosity at nauseum!
    Also maybe we can stretch the discussion to more than 1 day, if anyone feels that they have something to add that they can do so?

    I totally agree that mumsy should be the 'back-up sniffer'
    As for A: it is complex indeed. The notes listed in the databases are not endless and from other reviews I can read that more people picked up various notes. I'm mostly baffled by the lily of the valley note, it's so not obvious to me! Which is odd as of many flowers lotv is actually one of the few that I personally really like.

    Something else: I didn't test A on skin, I never test fragrance on skin due to allergies. So all my impressions are based on sprays on perfumers strips.

    After the public reveal I'd like to find out who the perfumer is (or perfumers are)? So far I didn't find much information on that subject.
    Customized consultancy on perfume formulation, safety, training and marketing & olfactory research
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  41. #41

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    And yes, F-site is NOT the only site with the notes for Fragrance A. Some other sites -- including the ones selling it -- give a more accurate although not that multiple-itemed account of what's in there.

    Irina, too bad about your allergies and inability to test on the skin. Like Warum says, testing on both skin and paper is the best.

  42. #42

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Any notes need to be agreed and presented by two+ sniffers before confirmation. (Is that correct?)
    Last edited by mumsy; 7th September 2012 at 03:55 PM.

  43. #43

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    What are you talking about, mumsy? We need the third sniffer, that's it, the one who is there when we need them.

  44. #44
    Super Member meowmo's Avatar
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    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    deleted
    Last edited by meowmo; 7th September 2012 at 04:33 PM.
    _________________________
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    Currently binging on roses.... Jo Malone, you dirty bitch. You too, Stella McCartney.

  45. #45

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Am I wrong then? I thought you needed two sniffers to agree a note before a confirm? With or without the third sniffer. OOps sorry Meow, you're here.

  46. #46
    Super Member meowmo's Avatar
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    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    deleted
    Last edited by meowmo; 7th September 2012 at 04:34 PM.
    _________________________
    Will perform unspeakable acts for Fracas, Chanel 19, and Agent Provocateur. And MAC, but the fragrance + cosmetics comorbidity club is pretty dang lonely.

    Currently binging on roses.... Jo Malone, you dirty bitch. You too, Stella McCartney.

  47. #47

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    You could put A on. It hasn't been revealed yet.

  48. #48
    Super Member meowmo's Avatar
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    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    deleted
    Last edited by meowmo; 7th September 2012 at 04:32 PM.
    _________________________
    Will perform unspeakable acts for Fracas, Chanel 19, and Agent Provocateur. And MAC, but the fragrance + cosmetics comorbidity club is pretty dang lonely.

    Currently binging on roses.... Jo Malone, you dirty bitch. You too, Stella McCartney.

  49. #49

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Lol... we're posting at the same time....

  50. #50
    Super Member meowmo's Avatar
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    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    deleted
    Last edited by meowmo; 7th September 2012 at 04:31 PM.
    _________________________
    Will perform unspeakable acts for Fracas, Chanel 19, and Agent Provocateur. And MAC, but the fragrance + cosmetics comorbidity club is pretty dang lonely.

    Currently binging on roses.... Jo Malone, you dirty bitch. You too, Stella McCartney.

  51. #51

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Hold on for B. We still have Sybarite and you to guess A.

    You can write your thoughts for A. You can also do the research and PM me/us your guesses about Fragrance A.

    - - - Updated - - -

    And please do not rush. I am all for a long, several week sniff, if need be.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Thank you, Meowmo, for coming and sniffing with us.
    Last edited by Twolf; 7th September 2012 at 04:37 PM.

  52. #52
    Super Member meowmo's Avatar
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    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Spraying A. MUCHO GUSTO! Feminine and floral, that's my bag!

    - - - Updated - - -

    Hahaha, just read all the previous threads. You are totally right on, my assigned fragrance (B) is my least favorite. Sneaky!

    Just becasue I'm visual, I feel the need to re-post:

    So far this have been confirmed by Cacio:
    floriental
    jasmine
    patchouli
    ylang
    vetiver
    sandalwood
    vanilla

    and

    the fragrance A movement -- from the bright assertive chypre --> to a huge floral bouquet --> to the subtle Oriental scent.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I actually kind of feel like it was big flowers in my face at the top, then is drying down to more green-ness. The middle here kind of reminds me of Chanel 19, so I will jump on the bandwagon with my fellow sniffers there.
    _________________________
    Will perform unspeakable acts for Fracas, Chanel 19, and Agent Provocateur. And MAC, but the fragrance + cosmetics comorbidity club is pretty dang lonely.

    Currently binging on roses.... Jo Malone, you dirty bitch. You too, Stella McCartney.

  53. #53

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Write more, please. Like, perhaps, 10 sentences?

    While assigning the least favorite fragrances, our projection was:
    A -- Irina (Sybarite will like it); so far it is somewhat wrong: see, Irina hates it all right (as per her overall dislike of feminine florals, LOL) but Sybarite does not like it much either. I am not losing all hopes though, it took me two full samples to understand it altogether.
    B -- you (Irina's favorite);
    C -- Sybarite (your favorite).

  54. #54
    Super Member meowmo's Avatar
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    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Looking at that other website's listing of scents witht he above confirmed notes, I can tell you with 100% certainty that this is NOT TF Black Orchid.


    Sorry, will make longer posts. Was just trying to get my ideas out as quickly as opssible for other sniffers' benefit.

    I can also agree with LOTV, iris, violet. I really don't get any rose yet. Still mostly powdery and green. And I feel like she's calming down as time goes on. Not as loud... but, whoa, that first spritz gives you some LOOK AT ME topnotes! Didn't feel like it was HOLY COW ALDEHYDES as others did (which might be because I own and wear the aldehyde bomb known as Chanel 22), but I wouldn't be surprised if they're in there somewhere. I'm also getting some soapy notes.

    Jasmine and rose?

    PMed a guess.

    Concur with earlier suggestion of peach. Is it weird that I think this could work for day or night? (Tehn again, I wear AP during the day, so I guess my opinion on these matters shoudlnt' count)

    LOL, again looking at other site's suggestions, I feel very comfortable eliminating BaV from the running here.

    This also seems like it is a bit more modern, era-wise.

    Incense is saying hello now, although I know cacio said it's not listed.

    Must not be down to the oriental part yet, because I don't get that at all. I normally run screaming away from orientals but this little baby is great!

    Guess non-niche. But definitley high end.

    Can other sniffers elaborate on the "powerful woman" imagery you're getting? I think of more woodsy/musky tones for almost-masculine-but-intended-for-women scents. Sure, this is definitley not something to wear if you are feeling shy, but it still comes off as decidedly feminine to me.
    Last edited by meowmo; 7th September 2012 at 05:37 PM.
    _________________________
    Will perform unspeakable acts for Fracas, Chanel 19, and Agent Provocateur. And MAC, but the fragrance + cosmetics comorbidity club is pretty dang lonely.

    Currently binging on roses.... Jo Malone, you dirty bitch. You too, Stella McCartney.

  55. #55

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    You are right about TF -- Fragrance A lacks that fresh note that emerges somewhat closer to the 2/3 of Black Orchid development.

    Please write more.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Yes, there is a note of Chanel No.19 in fragrance A -- and you all somewhat have agreed on it -- what do you think it is? (traditional part of the French perfumery bouquet being the duo of jasmine and _______).

    - - - Updated - - -

    Meow, aldehydes are there only that other site does not list them. They blame citrus for fizz. LOL But really, they are not No.22-style bigger-than-life aldehydes.
    Last edited by Twolf; 7th September 2012 at 05:11 PM.

  56. #56

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Everything's bigger than life here, not just the aldehydes.

    To me, this frag is so rich that it's really not about single notes (though that's a way to search with notes websites), but the overall feel, an over the top abstract floral oriental (but centered on rose-jasmine combos), with a big creamy lactonic feel.

    I haven't been able to figure out who the perfumer is, sometimes the brand says and sometimes it does not.

    cacio

  57. #57
    Super Member meowmo's Avatar
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    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Everything's bigger than life here, not just the aldehydes.

    To me, this frag is so rich that it's really not about single notes (though that's a way to search with notes websites), but the overall feel, an over the top abstract floral oriental (but centered on rose-jasmine combos), with a big creamy lactonic feel.
    Hmmm... makes sense. Thank you, that's helpful. Well, then, I'll go abstract. I see the word "butch" was used upthread, which I wholeheartedly disagree with (unless we're defining that word differently). To me, Samantha from Sex and the City would wear this. It's attention-grabbing, it's surprising, but it's totally girly and sexy.

    Don't really have a reason why, but is this from an American house?

    Honey and/or milky notes, anyone? And was there a yay or nay on iris/orris root?
    Last edited by meowmo; 7th September 2012 at 05:49 PM.
    _________________________
    Will perform unspeakable acts for Fracas, Chanel 19, and Agent Provocateur. And MAC, but the fragrance + cosmetics comorbidity club is pretty dang lonely.

    Currently binging on roses.... Jo Malone, you dirty bitch. You too, Stella McCartney.

  58. #58

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    @meowmo glad to have you

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    with a big creamy lactonic feel.
    Well said, as I was just about to write that I found out what those powdery creamy peach like culprits are: a bunch of lactones, more exact creamy + dihydrojasmone lactone. In A they are imho used to maximize that huge big white floral bouquet by adding a soft creamy peach-y fruity bubblegum note. It is possibly layered with other lactones like Musk R1, a huge macrocyclic beautiful monster LOL

    I have to say that the more and longer I smell A, the more layers I discover and this makes A an unforgettable experience for me. Now I wouldn't dare say I hate it any longer, just maybe wear it when I feel very daring, sexy and confident like a few drops on my leather skirt and when holding a whip LOL

    As for the top notes, I wouldn't say this fragrance does it easy peasy pyramid style: it just mounts you all at once like a big sexy mamma with a huge heart and doesn't let go.

    Ow on TF's black orchid, something that I do own a tiny sample of, so I knew it wasn't it, the lactones and musks are very much the same so I definitely smell the resemblance. The gardenia accord in Black orchid is in A actually a tuberose with some neroli thrown is for good measure (but I have mistaken it for gardenia at first too!). And A is even louder and the rose is jammier like rose preserves.
    I think in A they may actually have used some Rosa Damascena absolute. A is definitely not a fragrance done 'on a budget'.
    Last edited by Irina; 7th September 2012 at 06:26 PM.
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  59. #59

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    it just mounts you all at once like a big sexy mamma with a huge heart and doesn't let go.
    Hugely funny.....

  60. #60

    Default Re: September 2012 Blind Sniff Acquired Tastes

    It is not from an american house, though I can see why the intensity and conficence of this could resemble some American houses. But there's also richness and complexity, as Irina was saying, this is not done on a budget.

    cacio

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