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  1. #31
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood

    Thank you kalli. He is a wonderful young guy with a big heart and some challenges. We will prevail but when he hurts I hurt.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  2. #32

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood

    ((((((((Jujy))))))))))

    I wish your both to get through your rough patch quickly and successfully!

    You know, Jujy, I use Jasmine for comfort too. It's the only flower that possesses soothing and empowering qualities. Usually people turn to vanilla, spices, and wood in difficult times.

  3. #33
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood

    No rush jujy54 - take your time with mine.
    "Realize deeply that the present moment is all you will ever have."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  4. #34
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood

    Well, the samples have been mailed, at long last. It's not exactly a sample pass, as each recipient has their own sample. WhiteFluffy, CivetLadt, mikeperez23, lucasai, cacio, PerfumedLady, and kalli are the luck recipients of:

    —The Sandalwoods
    •Myrurgia Maderas de Oriente, locion formulation (made in Mexico, provenance ebay)
    •Myrurgia Maderas de Oriente, perfume de tocador formulation (made in Spain, also ebay)
    •The Gap sandalwood (thank you WHitefluffy!)

    —The Jasmines
    •Donna Karan Essences Jasmine EdT
    •Serge Lutens Sarrasins EdP (bell jar straight from Paris, tiny sample, just a saturated cotton ball)

    —Jasmine and Sandalwwod meet
    •Guerlain Samsara EdP, 1980s (thank you CivetLady!)

    I will post my own experience with these some time this weekend. Looking forward to everyone's observations.
    Sniff on!

    - - - Updated - - -

    oh, and cestrum nocturnum is part of this pass, too. Sorry for the omission
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  5. #35
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood meets All That Jas(mine)

    It's here! And the cotton ball with Sarrasins is still soaking wet so I'm not just sniffing it, I'm wearing it! Even got a nice, bright and zingy opening; does that sound about right, jujy? Completely understand your ice cream reference, it really does have a cool creaminess about it. Really beautiful and the first Lutens that has wowed me. Will have more to say on it later, going to rub this cotton ball all over myself!

    Thank you so much, jujy! I will definitely report back soon; am excited to tear into these!
    The nose wants what it wants!

  6. #36
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood meets All That Jas(mine)

    Hi, Perfumed Lady, so glad you are enjoying Sarrasins. I actually think it opens quiet but intense, I experience it first and foremost as a skin scent. Despite Uncle Serge's "dark side" vibe, I do find Sarrasins to be cheerful, just not extroverted.

    __________________________
    Now onto my own take on the samples:
    I opened this thread with my experience of the two Maderas de Oriente formulations. I'll just add that I find the locion formulation a little dirtier, a little bit barbershop and the perfume de tocador more floral, more feminie. Both evoke my 1st experiences of sandalwood, which are soaps, fans (remember those?), and little carved statuettes, not perfumes. The Gap Sandalwood sample is elusive to me, but settles in to a sweet wood, crisp rather than creamy.

    Next the jasmines. Donna Karan Essences Jasmine smells exactly like jasmine flowers and jasmine tea. It is linear, fresh, and plain, not an indole wafts by. Lately, tho, it's been my go to while I cope with some stresses. Serge Lutens Sarrasins, on the other hand, is complicated, creamy, luxe, gamy. It is also warm and cheerful, jasmine sweetened with osmanthus and oiled with leather, an odalisque of a fragrance.

    Then there is Samsara, Guerlain's meeting of sandalwood and jasmine, in the lovely 80s EDP formulation generously supplied by CivetLady. It has taken me a while to warm up to Samsara. On paper I ought to love it, and yet—how to put it?—Ah: It's like having two dear friends who finally meet and can't stand one another. It's powdery sweetness overwhelmed me. In time, three separate wearings, the two leading ladies reconciled, and what seemed like noise harmonized at last. Out of curiosity, I layered MdO and DK Jasmine, just to see what would happen. I did indeed recognize both elements. I asked my ever-cooperative son to smell the Samsara on one arm and my layered experiment on the other. He pointed to the Samsara straightaway, and said, "this one." I asked if they smelled similar, and he remarked that the Samsara was "less exaggerated",very well put!

    An aside: I often layer MdO with another big, straight ahead soliflore, Perfumer's Workshop Tea Rose. I had thought of adding Tea Rose to the pass, but decided o leave well enough alone. In the meantime, I snagged Elizabeth Taylor Gardenia for a song at TJ Maxx—yet another big soliflore. Tea Rose, DK Essences Jasmine, and Liz's Gardenia, that would be a an interesting grouping, "The Big, Blowsy Babes".

    Looking forward to hearing from my sniffers.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  7. #37

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood meets All That Jas(mine)

    Hello everyone!

    I just wanted to say that I received my package yesterday, everything arrived safely. Thank you so mcuh for this opportunity, jujy!

    Being a huge jasmine fan I had to go straightaway for Sarassins. And just like PerfumedLady I understood jujy's references to ice cream. "Creamy" was the first word that popped into my head. I also detected something anisic, almost licorice like in there. Didn't quite pick up the leather like others unfortunately...But it's beautiful and warm, much more interesting then A La Nuit from the same house in my opinion.

    Today continuing with jasmine I am wearing DK Jasmine. So far so good. This is exactly the kind of jasmine I like - a bit green, a bit delicate, and like jujy noted - no indoles in sight. Very pretty, I might need a bottle of this...

  8. #38

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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood meets All That Jas(mine)

    Packet arrived here too.

    I tried the DK jasmine first. A beautiful jasmine, with all the components dutifully present. I do get the sultriness of the jasmine, not sure whether that's indole or what. In the past, one could have simply commented on this as "simply a jasmine". But now that IFRA (and perhaps the EU) have made these things impossible, the comment should be more "how wonderful, a pure jasmine"!

    I own and love Sarrasins. As LT says, it opens with a jasmine blast, then a fruity one (apricot, plum, peach), and finally leather. Magically, over time, osmanthus comes out of this combination - there's likely osmanthus added, but it is also that, in retrospect, osmanthus itself has these facets, a jasminey floral, a sweet apricot-y, and a drier one (like tea or leather). I don't know if IFRA has/will destroy this, but I've bought a backup bottle the last time I went to Paris.

    cacio

  9. #39
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood meets All That Jas(mine)

    WF, since you have actually smelled Mysore sandalwood, I will look forward to your take on the two Maderas formulations.
    cacio, backup bottle, that was smart! I love Sarrasins more with each wearing. All the more reason to make travel plans...
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  10. #40

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood meets All That Jas(mine)

    I got the chance to try two Madera de Oriente and unfortunately I must say that they smell nothing like the oil I had. However, I was instantly reminded of vintage Chanel N 5 parfum which tells me that sandalwood in both Maderas must be both natural and of the good quality.

    The Mysore sandalwood oil smelled woodsy, dry, and sweet - no oil or cream added. To me, Gap Sandalwood is still the closest thing, especially in the drydown, however synthetic and world apart from the real thing. But recently, one kind BNer sent me vintage L'Heure Attendue by Jean Patou and to me it's the closest thing - woodsy, sweet, and a bit powdery. I liked Maderas very much but the locion was more pronounced and lasted longer on my skin.
    Last edited by Whitefluffy; 14th January 2013 at 05:08 PM.

  11. #41

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood meets All That Jas(mine)

    Can't wait for my package to arrive.

  12. #42
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood meets All That Jas(mine)

    Got my samples last night, I tried the Locion last night (a tiny dab on my hand) and the fragrance today (I applied the whole sample you sent me). The fragrance is very light and my skin sort of swallowed it up completely so that it's hard for me to speak about the middle notes and basenotes because I can't smell much. I did spray some on my arm but I would have to remove my blazer to bury my nose in my arm & I can't right now.

    When I applied it I immediately thought of Vol de Nuit (which IMO is very similar to Miss Dior which jujy 54 mentions in her first post). It has that vintage, floral, oriental feel which I love. The sandalwood I am going to have to wait for...
    "Realize deeply that the present moment is all you will ever have."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  13. #43
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood meets All That Jas(mine)

    Interesting, MdO locion lasts forever on me.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  14. #44
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood meets All That Jas(mine)

    Quote Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post
    Interesting, MdO locion lasts forever on me.
    I will try slathering that one on (you sent me a bit more of this one) and I'll let you know if that one sticks more.

    I had no idea, J, that this scent was so rare. THANK YOU so much for sharing it with me. It's like a little time capsule in a vial...another time and place, for sure. I love that about vintage scents.

    - - - Updated - - -

    One thing I forgot to mention that I spoke about on another thread, a while ago: I think the Tom Ford scents Santal Blush and Jasmine Rouge, worn together, smell JUST LIKE Samsara. Seriously.
    "Realize deeply that the present moment is all you will ever have."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  15. #45
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood meets All That Jas(mine)

    Since I have a huge bottle of the locion, I sent everyone 2 ml.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  16. #46

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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood meets All That Jas(mine)

    I've been (re) testing the locion and the tocador. My skin must be like mike's, because the two tend to disappear. Perhaps not as fast as with mike, but they certainly don't last four hours. Either I am anosmic to the sandalwood in the base (not that I would know, I've never consciously smelled real sandalwood), or, more likely, my skin eats it. I remember a Weil pass the sample where I had the same impression, of perfumes being eaten by my skin.

    That said, they are lovely while they last, especially the locion. The tocador, on my skin, is lighter, cleaner (in relative sense, none of the two is particularly clean), and more powdery. The locion is dirtier, with a nice touch of civet. As I mentioned in a previous thread, I do detect some almondy sweet floral which to my nose recalls heliotropin. But here I may be mixing up the sweetness of real sandalwood with the florals.

    I have not tried the Gap sandalwood on skin, but on paper it is surprisingly interesting, for the brand. Straightforward creamy woody, and pleasant.

    cacio

  17. #47
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood meets All That Jas(mine)

    Ah, and here I am, just woke up, trying to figure out what to wear over last night's locion. I'm going with my vintage 50s or 60s Antilope EdT,as there are common notes. Yes, cacio, the locion is definitely "dirtier" the tocador more "polite". The tocador also reminds me of the made in Spain vintage Myrurgia Maja I have. The Gap disappears on me a little more detectable on paper. I find it crisp rather than creamy, most definitely woody.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Ah, and here I am, just woke up, trying to figure out what to wear over last night's locion. I'm going with my vintage 50s or 60s Antilope EdT,as there are common notes. Yes, cacio, the locion is definitely "dirtier" the tocador more "polite". The tocador also reminds me of the made in Spain vintage Myrurgia Maja I have. The Gap disappears on me a little more detectable on paper. I find it crisp rather than creamy, most definitely woody.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  18. #48

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood meets All That Jas(mine)

    My package arrived today! Dear God and All Saints, it smells fabulous already, without opening any vial yet. Will try to get to sampling them ASAP, probably at the weekend.

  19. #49
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood meets All That Jas(mine)

    Oh, lucasai, I am so happy to hear your are loving the scents even before you sample them. This is all quality stuff, IMO.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  20. #50
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood meets All That Jas(mine)

    I am pretty sure the scent that overwhelmed all of the other scents, when I opened up my envelope from jujy54 was Sarassins. Gosh that stuff just radiates. Strong.
    "Realize deeply that the present moment is all you will ever have."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  21. #51
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood meets All That Jas(mine)

    Sarrasins is big stuff, mike, though on me it is a great big skin scent. I don't think it is a sillage monster. I'm not sure I've ever worn it away from home.

    cacio, I always took the animalic in the locion to be ambergris based on one tenuous association, JHAG Not a Perfume, which is pretty much Ambroxan(synthetic ambergris). What do you think?
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  22. #52

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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood meets All That Jas(mine)

    As I said, I cannot comment much on the drydown of the locion. Ambroxan is quite different from real ambergris, to me ambroxan feels very synthetic and clean, but I haven't worn the jhag, so I cannot say whether they added also some animalic note to warm up the sharpness of the synthetic material. I mentioned civet because the feel I got from the beginning of the locion was more the warm background of civet over the florals; moreover, civet was usually added to lift jasmine. But it is well possible that both are present, indeed, they were both often present in classic perfumes, the ambergris, even back then, in small amounts.

    cacio

  23. #53

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood meets All That Jas(mine)

    I agree with cacio that there might be some civet in the locion and florals - jasmine? Maybe that's why vintage Chanel N 5 popped into my head. But there is some note in the locion that smells a bit rotten and disturbing to me, I am not sure what it is. I believe that both Maderas have good quality sandalwood but it's only present as a part of a blend, and not as the main player.

    Gap Smooth Sandalwood (official name, sorry I failed to mentioned it earlier) is my go to when I crave sandalwood. As I said earlier I don't wear it, but used it on my sheets and pillow cases - the smell holds for days. I tried it on my skin for this pass: it warms up and holds just as long on my skin as it did on my sheets. I really do love it and maybe I will take a page from jujy's book and layer it with Tea Rose one of these days. Smooth Sandalwood is crisp and woody like jujy noted; not unlike the Mysore oil which was also crisp and woody, if much more gorgeous.

    Samsara - I have mixed feelings about this one. I used to love the sandalwood base, but lately it's so synthetic and oily that it makes me sick. I don't detect any jasmine, mostly ylang-ylang.
    Last edited by Whitefluffy; 17th January 2013 at 09:24 PM.

  24. #54

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood meets All That Jas(mine)

    I agree with cacio that there might be some civet in the locion and florals - jasmine? May be that's why vintage Chanel N 5 popped into my head. But there is some note in the locion that smells a bit rotten and disturbing to me, I am not sure what it is. I believe that both Maderas have good quality sandalwood but it's only present as a part of a blend, and not the main player.

    Gap Smooth Sandalwood (official name, sorry I failed to mentioned it earlier) is my go to when I crave sandalwood. As I said earlier I don't wear it, but used it on my sheets and pillow cases - the smell holds for days. I tried it on my skin for this pass - it warms up and holds just as long on my skinas it did on my sheets. I really do love it and maybe I will take a page from jujy's book and will layer it with Tea Rose one of these days. Smooth Sandalwood is crisp and woody like jujy noted; not unlike Mysore sandalwood oil which was also crisp and woody, if much more gorgeous.

    Samsara - I have mixed feelings about this one. I used to love the sandalwood base, but lately it's so synthetic and oily that it makes me sick. I don't detect any jasmine, mostly ylang-ylang.

    So sorry for the double post!!!

  25. #55
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood meets All That Jas(mine)

    Hi, WF, basenotes double posts for me, too sometimes. Usually it's the first post after I've opened my browser.

    I know what you mean about the rotten note in the locion, it reminds me of a rotten note I picked up in a vintage bottle of Ma Griffe, which may have been asafoetida. I find the rottenness fades.
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  26. #56
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood meets All That Jas(mine)

    I found some goodies in the mail yesterday! Thank you Jujy! I can't wait to start sniffing once my sniffer is back in full working order.

  27. #57
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood meets All That Jas(mine)

    I am wearing the Locion MdO now - gosh, it's so nice. No WONDER you wanted to share this with other Basenoters. It's an epiphany! Lovely stuff.

    I personally smell nothing 'rotten' at all in this. Civet? Maybe. I happen to love civet in orientals and fougeres so perhaps I'm biased.

    Overall I smell something that I smell in L'Heure Bleue, I will call it chewy-French-pastry and maybe it is the heliptrope that cacio mentioned above. Or maybe it's almond? Whatever it is, I love that note. But unlike the Guerlain this one is a bit more transparent and has more room to breathe it's not so tightly-spiced or as ultra-powdery. I happen to LOVE the rare and discontinued Eau de Cologne version of L'Heure Bleue the most, and this Myurgia has the same sort of feel and texture as that one. Props!

    I want a bottle!!!

    Oh and before I forget - I don't necessarily smell sandalwood in this Locion. But I will be re-smelling my wrists all night and if I do, I will repost.
    "Realize deeply that the present moment is all you will ever have."

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  28. #58
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood meets All That Jas(mine)

    Wanting to double-check on the presence of sandalwood I came across this site, including this description:
    * Frasco vintage contendo fragmento de madeira de sândalo

    Família Olfativa: Oriental amadeirado, 1918 ( USA 1920)
    Gênero: feminino
    Designer: Myrurgia
    Rastro: Intenso
    Fixação: Muito Boa
    Notas olfativas: Bouquet floral, especiarias, âmbar, madeira de sândalo.
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  29. #59

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood meets All That Jas(mine)

    I'm starting sampling tomorrow. Will go from Sarrasins probably?

  30. #60
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood meets All That Jas(mine)

    Why not, lucasai? (;
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

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