Sample Pass: Into the (Sandal)Wood meets All That Jas(mine)

[lucasai]

Alright, so tomorrow is today and it's time to start sampling those jasmines, sandalwoods and Samsara.

Soo... the Sarrasins from Lutens. My cotton fluff was well soaked with the perfume so I hope what I dabbed from it on the top of my hand will give me a real feeling for this perfume. In the opening a lot of jasmine is there but I thought it would be a huge bouquet of heady florals while what I smell is a pleasing flowery sensation. It's quite velvety and mellow. Somehow reminds me of a scented clothes mist my mum uses when she's doing the ironing. I certainly don't get much carnation and I have this funny feeling that along with the jasmine I notice some iris (there's something powdery to it) and call me a fool or not but I say I smell some very light cocoa there too. After a while Sarrasins moved onto a smooth and sensual scent with intensified musk and weaker jasmine. It's quite elegant I say. I bet the cotton fluff way of applying lowered the intensity of Sarrasins but I think this perfume could work as an office scent if what I get is it's regular power. There's also something spicy in there, it's not a cinnamon, maybe some sweet cloves or maybe something anise-y? Not sure about it. For the rest of the time Sarrasins is a floral all the way down. I thought there would be a rose but it's not there. I think I smell yellow flowers such as daffodil, maybe some freesia or frangipani.
Generally speaking this is a very nice perfume, feminine with a possibility of a guy wearing it.

[cacio]

I have not worn the cotton ball yet. On skin, it has a more clear progression: jasmine blast, then some sweetness, leather and osmanthus as a result. Interesting that you do not cite either any sweetness or leather. Do you get any leather on the background?

cacio

[lucasai]

I have not worn the cotton ball yet. On skin, it has a more clear progression: jasmine blast, then some sweetness, leather and osmanthus as a result. Interesting that you do not cite either any sweetness or leather. Do you get any leather on the background?

cacio

It definitely wasn't sweet on my skin, I didn't also get any typical leather, maybe something that could be classified as suedy accord, yes, that one could be there.

[mikeperez23]

When I wore Sarrasins from a sample, back when it came out, I never really smelled leather per se. Something grisly and animalic, yes but not leather. I also never got the osmanthus note, a note I simply love in fragrances but alas for me I just got lots of dark, beastly, creamy jasmine.

Gosh I would love to smell this scent on a sexy lady.

[cacio]

The osmanthus thing is almost a trick for me. I don't smell it at the beginning, but then may be an hour later when I catch a whiff from afar, I smell something like osmanthus. Hard to say if it's included as a note per se, or if it's the combo of jasmine-apricot-leather which magically comes together to smell like osmanthus.

It'd be interesting to see what other smellers think - if they agree with Luca Turin (as I did), or not.

cacio

[PerfumedLady]

I never really get much leather in Sarrasins, just a brief peek that seems as if it will head in a sinister direction but never does. Really comes across as more of a short-lived heart note for me. No carnation I can detect; do not go looking here for a carnation scent. To me, it's all about the jasmine. Jasmine ice cream. And yes, sexy! Nope, don't agree with Turin this time, I never do get a fruity vibe. Maybe a smoothness there that wears a bit similar to apricot but always stays floral and not overly sweet (and I'm picky about sweet!) . Not too indolic, poised perfectly between clean and dirty. The only Lutens I've truly loved. Totally surprised at the lack of density here; it does not lack presence by any means but none of the usual Lutens heaviness. I do agree with Turin that this is a thing of beauty. This will just give me one more scent to argue with him about in my head, which is always fun for me! Mr. T does not know about these friendly arguments of ours, unfortunately.

Loved DK Jasmine, too. Cacio is right, 15-20 years ago I'd have found this very pretty but also very boring. In my early 20's, I did wear a jasmine oil that came from a local perfumery in Indianapolis. I did not know how precious that oil would become and wore it on days off work, just a casual running errands scent. It was bright, clean, inoffensive jasmine and nothing else. It smelled wonderful and of course, was mostly naturals. I have been missing it so! DK has come the closest to that oil of anything I've smelled. When I think DK, I have to admit the first thing to pop in my mind is NOT "natural smelling". But this Jasmine is- how on earth did they do this? And why couldn't I have known about it sooner?! Another one to cry over.

I remember trying 80's Samsara EDP when it was the actual 80's and not liking it. Recently though, I've been getting on more than fine with the vintage extrait. I thought I would be in for a revelation here and I was-just not the one I expected. I still don't care for the EDP and now I see why; it is much heavier on spice where extrait is heavier on the jasmine and ylang ylang. I just prefer the latter.

Gap Smooth Sandalwood would make a very nice room/linen spray, I think. One of the better synthetic sandalwoods I've tried. It does capture something of that rosy, lotion-y vibe I get from real sandalwood. On my skin, it becomes a hamster cage, must be some cedar. My skin plays up cedar in the most obnoxious way. Also, a bit of a clean laundry note here that I don't care for in perfumes but is perfectly fitting for a linen spray. Well done but I do think its best use is as a home fragrance.

Maderas de Oriente- first thought was "classic Guerlain". Very much of the same plush, velvet-laden style. Racked my brain trying to figure out why Guerlain came to mind until I saw Mike's post about Vol de Nuit. Right on, that's the one! Very similar, rounded florals in those two. I do think there's real, high quality sandalwood here but it's mainly a base note to me; had to wait a long time for it in both the locion and the tocador. But it's certainly there as a player in this blend. Overall, this is mainly an ambery floriental on me. Something haunting about this one I just can't put my finger on. Agree Locion is a bit dirtier but not by much; both versions have wholly earned their raunch cards.

This was so much fun, jujy, thank you! So nice to smell some good quality woods and jasmine, both such rareties now. Your Sarrasins is a star, do enjoy it!

[lucasai]

Jasmine from Donna Karan performed very simply on my skin. Pure jasmine, floral, clean, a little bit soap. Very linear without any particular surprises and what surprised me was that the scent was totally gone after an hour of testing.

[Whitefluffy]

I wanted to add a bit on Sarrasins - through Jujy's generosity who shared with me a bit more of Sarrasins per my shameless request I was able to give it another full wear and I am able to detect much more second time around.

First time like most I didn't detect leather, fruits, or osmanthus, just creamy jasmine. But second time around I can pick up much more - raw leather in the very beginning that stayed for the most part; fruits - mainly the apricot; as for osmanthus, I don't know how it smells like in real life but I had a sample of Osmanthus by the Different Company which I applied on a wrist. I must say, I don't' detect much of similarity, maybe just light fleeting delicately sweet something.

Now that Sarrasins fully warmed up it's mostly jasmine and fruits on my skin. The leather, unfortunately, made it's exit earlier. If it stuck around for a while longer, Sarrasins would certainly have been full bottle worthy for me.

[mikeperez23]

...both versions have wholly earned their raunch cards...

This made me giggle.

[jujy54]

I'm enjoying everyone's colorful descriptions. Re: Sarrasins, if I'm not mistaken, my impression was something like post-coital bliss plus ice cream, in other words, what's not to love?

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Here are the two Maderas de Oriente formulas in my possession. They are in heavy rotation these days.
If you get a thumbnail, just click on it.

P1030300.jpg

[mikeperez23]

I would have never even stopped to sample the Gap Sandalwood, if I hadn't participated in this sample pass. I adored the Gap Grass years ago, and I always had a soft spot for Om but since those first fragrances, most of the releases from the Gap are horrible. Well, maybe horrible is not the right word - derivative. Boring. Smell like detergent or hand soap. For me, as a Basenoter, this is 'horrible.'

Gap Sandalwood manages to be both soapy, slightly herbal (in that baby aspirin sort of way) and then mostly smelled from afar, softly woody and a tiny bit creamy. I have used sandalwood soap in the shower (a brand from Whole Foods that I cannot remember) and this fragrance replicates that experience: hot suds, water, soap, woody notes...something detergent-esque in the background. The trick is not to smell this one too close to the skin (soap!) but to let it waft up to the nose, gently (sandalwood!).

I have only dabbed a tiny amount since you sent me such a small amount J, but I promise next time I wear it I will pour the rest of the 1/3 of a ml on my arm - I'm sure I'll have a much wider-palette experience.

For now, I will call this 'nice'. I can't imagine it offending anyone and it might be a good recommendation for people who don't really like sandalwood. An Entry Sandalwood, if you will.

J, we keep calling this Sandalwood but the only images I can Google on this one are called Smooth Sandalwood. Is this the one we're sampling?

[PerfumedLady]

Yes, I believe that's the one, Mike!

Glad I could give you a giggle! I think you and jujy both know this about me but I should clarify for those who may not- when I say a scent is a card carrying member of the Raunch Club, I mean it as a compliment. A big ol' skank-lovin' compliment!

[jujy54]

You are 100% correct, mike, it is Gap Smooth Sandalwood. I think that just did not fit on the vials White Fluffy sent me, tho I think she did note the names.

[Whitefluffy]

J, we keep calling this Sandalwood but the only images I can Google on this one are called Smooth Sandalwood. Is this the one we're sampling?

Yes, that's the one, sorry for the confusion. As far as I know it's been discontinued few years ago and I was lucky enough to pick it up in the TJ Maxx for $9.99 on clearance. I thought, at the very least, I will use it as a room spray, which I do .

You are so very right, Mike (can I call you Mike? We are not officially acquainted) that it's better to smell from afar, not up close. It's most beautiful when whiffs are caught. When sniffed up close it's very obviously synthetic and can come across as harsh.

[jujy54]

Wore the MdO locion today. It lasts forever on me when applied on the back of my forearm, as a close to the skin scent, probably because the hair holds ontl it. I have to bring my forearm to my nose, then I smell powdery woody ambery wonderfulness. You should all thry it. (:

[mikeperez23]

I'm wearing the Sarassins from the cotton ball now (so funny, jujy54 double bagged it!). The ball was still damp so I smeared it all over my hairy forearms. Wow, I forget how lovely this stuff is. Maybe also, when I had a decant of this, I always sprayed it on - and then one time I did dab it on, like today, and it yields a sort of different effect/texture. I love that about some fragrances. I get the 'cream' everyone's speaking about - I sort of don't like this, personally. However I'm less bothered by it now, then when I first smelled it. Not skanky or even leather-prominent per se but something 'black' smelling, it's hard to describe. I remember giggling at that thread on the men's board about Sarassins years ago, have you read that one jujy54? Here it is: http://www.basenotes.net/threads/252...about-this-one

[jujy54]

Oh, mikeperez23, it is a classic! First off, sugandaraja's description is spot-on and priceless, especially this:

If Fracas was a person, it would have absolutely nothing to say to Sarrasins.

Then there's this:

Most jasmine soliflores bring to mind a sucked on grape Jolly Rancher that's been spit out on the floor of a florist shop.

Sarrasins was a blind buy for me, tho not without advise and consent from many on this forum. A friend was in Paris and I wanted something that I couldn't get here, and I wanted Lutens in a bell jar. I love this stuff. Also agree with that thread, mike, that Sarrasins is to be daubed not sprayed. No, it hasn't much sillage, it is a skin scent to be nuzzled, whether your own arm or someone else's neck.

[jujy54]

Ah, basenote hiccough. double post. it happens.

[mikeperez23]

I have had a complete 'new look' at Sarrasins after today, thank you J!

[mikeperez23]

Did cestrum nocturnum get samples? I'd love to hear her comments on them.

[jujy54]

She should have, mike. I'm waiting, too.
cestrum?

[iivanita]

i somehow missed this thread or just recently i have learnt about Samsara... i did not know its jasmine-sandalwood combo ...the modern EDP is a killer, it stays for 2 days on clothing....does that vintage one differs much from the modern one?? would appreciate if you could comment more , this is basicly my ideal combo...but modern version really smells especially in the beginning so so loud and synthetic!!

so this pass somehow missed on Ubar....Ubar for me is like more sophisticated expresion of Samsara ...its also jasmine sandalwood combo! with something milky in it....not so obvious as Samsara....

Sarrasins is gorgeous jasmine Sambac.....its sophisticated take on Sambac.... peachy jasmine, perfect combo for me! and love at first sniff....i dont get much of leather , actually the same as in Visa


am curious to know if Homage sandalwood , the discontinued frag was real Mysore sandalwood?
they also have Jasmine....but dont know which one is it......Sambac is somehow very distinctive from other jasmines( egyptian etc.)

[jujy54]

Hi, iivanita, since this wasn't so much a sample pass as a sample spread it around with each participant receiving decants of all the fragrances, maybe someone would like to pass theirs on...?????? Anyone?

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iivanita, happy to report cacio will be sending you some samples from this pass. Grazie, cacio!

[mikeperez23]

i somehow missed this thread or just recently i have learnt about Samsara... i did not know its jasmine-sandalwood combo ...the modern EDP is a killer, it stays for 2 days on clothing....does that vintage one differs much from the modern one?? would appreciate if you could comment more , this is basicly my ideal combo...but modern version really smells especially in the beginning so so loud and synthetic!!

The vintage used real Mysore sandalwood (like most vintage Guerlains) so the creamy sandalwood base notes are even richer, more intense and long lasting. IMO the top notes are loud in the vintage and in the new - remember Samsara came out when 'loud' fragrances were in vogue, so this needs to be taken into consideration. Of all of the formulations, the 'quietest' is the Parfum or if you can find it, try to get some Body Lotion, which is much more subtle. Nonetheless, once the jasmine stops screaming it smells SO FRIGGIN GOOD.

In fact tomorrow, I'm going to wear the sample that jujy54 sent me - I'm going to strut into my office trailing a huge bubble of Samsara. Watch out!

[jujy54]

mike, this is off topic, but every time I see the last two words of your sig quote, I bust out laughing. Bald behind?

[iivanita]

Hi, iivanita, since this wasn't so much a sample pass as a sample spread it around with each participant receiving decants of all the fragrances, maybe someone would like to pass theirs on...?????? Anyone?

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iivanita, happy to report cacio will be sending you some samples from this pass. Grazie, cacio!

Wooow!!!!:-) lovely !! Thank you so much Cacio, and guys and girls:-), i can add Ubar sample on the pass to the next person:-)

Since i love jasmine, and sandalwood, i think Samsara will be my new love, and i don't mind it beeing loud:-) cant wait to compare it to the modern samsara, because that one smells also too good in the late drydown!

Looking forward to this:-)

[mikeperez23]

Civet Lady, is the Samsara Eau de Parfum that you sent us from the box that looks like this:

[iivanita]

hello guys and girls!!

thank you very much all , so many things happened in between i have learnt few more things

i recieved a package with 4 samples from sample pass, and unfortunately one leaked...it is MdO T.... so locion is there but this other is not....i could smell some becasue was in plastic bag and tiny drop in the vial left, i did not use it yet

it smelled somehow familiar, i was thinking about Samsara...its very feminine sweet gentle frag, and somehow peculiar smell, i could recognize it beeing EDT and old school, like i smell Tabu but not so spiced this one is very mild sweet and gentle....and some carnation...but something in there was giving me a feeling that maybe came from perfume beeing mixed with plastic? will try the drop from a vial and report...on that one and other 3 as well: dona karan, MdO locion and GAP....looking forward to that

i wont be able to share my Ubar becasue i sold it and beeing stupid not taking out at least for a small vial and i could have done it was huge bottle! but here is my review of this new Ubar :
the one i like very much had sweet milky sandalwood and copahu balm....and was complex, and later had a bit of something powdery....this new one version has something that reminded me of sweat!! so either it is bad sandalwood, with off notes or , which i think more probable is it has loads of civet and no sandalwood!....i.e.vanillic civet synthetic one....its way much sweeter then the Ubar from 2009
it is still way better frag then modern Samsara....but is more simple then the version i like, more "oriental" and more synthetic!...and not that floral as well! lost on that beautiful creaminess and also is noticabley weaker!.....

as with all synthetic frags it smells much better after 3-4 hours into the play!

but what i gained is Samsara EDP 30ml vintage bottle not like the above on the picture, and it is gorgeous!!
one does not have to endure anything....its beauty from the top to the bottom!! its not loud at all, its sensual florals yilang and jasmine...nothing overpowering the other....dancing with sandalwood, that gets better and better, milky creamy....and mild, sandalwood can not scream! you get the feeling you want to stop the moment....but you cant....slowly hour after hours is getting more and more quiet...becoming skin scent, the one that makes you sniff yourself!
the quality of that Samsara is i think like the quality of Serge Lutens scents today...La myrrhe , having the beautiful sandalwood in the base!! it is more longlasting...but it also has some other stronger notes....

in the late drydwon , its very quiet, almost unnoticable ..bit powdery iris and vanilla, but its like you smell it from a distance..like aquarel it is also long lasting but like the real sandalwood it whispers beautiful melody

the modern Samsara...is the best next day its 100% synthetic sandalwood note, that has kind of metalic note something that is causing sickness....and hard to wear....its super loud, and super long lasting....

to be continued....

[jujy54]

Welcome to the pass, iivanita. Looking forward to all your observations.

[iivanita]

so i hope i am not mistaking too much...MdO locion and Tocador smell almost the same...but locion smells much better!! like real perfume...and the one i like!!

i did not smell too many perfumes with these type of notes..and it smells like beautiful mimose flower with sandalwood base...smells so feminine, so creamy (but not like a cream), buttery, yellow, yet it has nice strength ......i was surprised to like it because the Tocador....was smelling a bit like off note, or like some coffe note dropped in it...or dirty...like a dirty water after washing something undefined in it , so was not too impressed...
Locion has a feel of a real perfume and is much stronger and i smell it yellow, and mimosa..., something slightly powdery...like some iris notes....maybe some more white florals added, and remindes me of of Apres L Ondee although less green or wet , so i rememberd Frederic Malles Cassie...so this would lie in between and like it better then Malles...

when i read someone mentioned Guerlain it dawned on me....becasue before seeing Guerlain i could not place it..although it felt like i know it

i could not find it on fragrantica, so dont know the notes but it smells a lot like mimosa...and those notes dont come very often but are sooo feminine!! and whispery...never loud!

luv it

thank you Jujy54 and Cacio