Thread: Parfum d'empire - Musc tonkin
EUR144 for UK customers (120+24) direct from Parfum d'Empire. Sold out on luckyscent however.
I am looking to buy blind, what is the sillage/projection/longevity on these?
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Just noticed most Parfum d'Empire bottles are 100ml for EUR92 but this is half the bottle at 1.5 times the price?
I am a huge fan of this house in general and a particular perfumer, but there is one tiny flaw in this specific fragrance : it is bollocks.
Received mine today and my first impression (nothing more) is: MKK may just have been dethroned. Usually I loathe tuberose heavy fragrances and actually do associate it with obnoxious rich old lady - but not here! This one is timeless and unisex in the best way imaginable. Many (seemingly) opposites masterfully combined. Surely not for everybody, just like MKK.
I have to say that I prefer the drydown of MKK over the opening. Also calone is a thing that I didnt like that much.
Also some people say that its not that powerful. I think I will pass.
So far I'd say it has good longevity. In terms of projection it starts out strong but after something over an hour it leans more towards the lower end (not a skin scent, mind you) and stays there.
On another note, I think this one is best suited for mature (which doesn't equal "old") wearers and also demands something a bit more classy than jeans and t-shirt to go with it. In that regard it's in the same boat as Patou Pour Homme or Pure Distance's M, for example (smells totally different though).
Last edited by Nasenmann; 21st December 2012 at 06:29 PM.
Interesting fragrance this one. From very early impressions I'd say it more in the vein of Noir Patch, Mona Oud or UFdC than MKK or any other musk. A different take on a dirty floral if you will. I think this is why people are seeing it as suitable for a certain age. The oceanic/salty note was a surprise. Very much in the vein of the original HdP Edition Rare trio - same note/s in fact.
Need to do more skin testing to get under it. So far, very nice, very different and very potent!
The best release of 2012...BY FAR! This starts out with a blast of leathery civet, while slowly the indolic florals start to creep in. I can smell mostly rose with a bit of jasmine. The fragrance then starts to settle into quite a vintage-y feel and reminds me of my vintage Chanel 5 extrait with a heavily animalic, real musk and civet base. There is defintely an abudance of iris because 20 minutes in, MT becomes quite powdery. Once the basenotes start to appear, I can smell resins; lots and lots of them. Most notabely, styrax and benzoin. It's sweet, but not dessert-like in anyway, shape or feel; more like an opulent oriental of yore. MT stays incredibly animalic, leathery and oriental in feel throughout its entire duration. Imagine vintage Opium extrait...with a more animalic, distinctly leathery, extremely human feel to it.
Smelled it last week. Have to agree that it does have a major old-school French sort of vibe, but it is good. Not for me, but good nonetheless.
God...I hate that I missed this one. Guess I'll purchase a decant
Update: I received my decant of Musc tonkin from the perfumed court today and I have never been MORE upset. I'm upset that I missed this one while it was on sale at Luckyscent! This is by far... the greatest musk fragrance I have ever sniffed. It's not the dirty barnyard scent at all. It's a familiar type of human scent (very natural) that's extremely intoxicating. It has been on my skin for an hour and it is so sexy!! If you highly respect the art of perfume (which most of us on this site do), you have to treat yourself to at least a 5 ml decant of this fragrance.
Last edited by Jkidd; 13th January 2013 at 01:38 AM.
1. Patou Pour Homme
2. Patou Pour Homme Prive
3. Portrait of a lady
4. Jubilation XXV
5. Cashmere Oud
6. Tribute Attar
7. Ambre 114
8. Clive Christian No. 1
9. Jardin d Amalfi
10. Eau de Patou Pour Homme
I must admit I rode the hype train long and hard on this and wound up a little let down.
It's not a bad scent: sambac-jasmine and osmanthus with a chilly-salty aquatic side, sort of a descendent of J'Adore and all its shampoo-y descendents blended with the steely-salty-oily note noticeable in Ambrarem and Petroleum of the recent Histoires de Parfums trio. There is a little skank too, but it's pretty well buried compared with most other scents ( including the one it's typically pitted against, Muscs Koublai Khan ).
It's a solid yet diaphanous floral and adds something to the PdE line it didn't have before, but if you're expecting the niche skankzilla musk this isn't it. If you're looking for super-skank of the year then head over to Monegal's Ambra di Luna.
Thanks Suga for clearing up the 'hype fog' a bit. Either it comes to my local store for sniffing or it doesn't.
I find it closer to Musc Nomade than MKK.
I don't know much about medicine, but I know what I like. -- S.J. Perelman
i got a chance to test this, was not aware of any information about this scent,
i read somehwere it has some real musk in it so was curious to try it, since i also never smelled musk that doesnt give off that shampoo note, or detergent like note, was curious as well, and it is very different take on musc. it smells like nice imitation of animalic muscs, which i never tried but imagine .
i did notice from the start its very oily and heavy , intensive kind of perfume, and opening smells really very rich musky animalic, and sweet, its heavy sweetnes like musky perfumes are, and very good imitation!
Later after 1-2 hours starts getting that crazy metalic note, wich gives of synthetics origin, metalic jasmine maybe? it did not call jasmine sambac in my memory...but floral it is...maybe that sweetness comes from tuberose, but overal its very feminine scent to me, i think its nicely done since today it is impossible to make better musc then this.
But the late drydown is very boring, synthetic and hairspray for women
good thing is i did not smell that typical clean, shampoo like, modern, detergent note that modern musks all have, its sweet floral musky thing, its not civety to my nose at all, that musk animalic note is the best achievement of this perfume, and who loves it should try it...it has no civet at all.
Last edited by iivanita; 19th April 2013 at 10:19 PM.
Resurrecting this since I tried this last week, I think in the parfum version. I imagined a musky powerhouse, a la MKK or Ferme tes yeux, but it is not. The top is indeed musky, but sort of a muted version of Ferme tes yeux. Then it seems to disappear - I was probably under nose fatigue, but still, it was light, and considerably cleaner. After the interesting start, I must say it's a bit disappointing, and I don't think it'll go on my to-buy list.
The people at Jovoy (who didn't have it, they only had a carafe for testing) said it should come back in the fall, though I'm not sure it was an informed statement.
No, that was my first time trying it. And as said, I'm not even sure of which concentration it was, nor the vintage. It was in an unmarked caraffe (literally), the label beneath said parfum, but it might have been edp.