Parfum d'empire - Musc tonkin

[Mon-Petit]

Apparently it hasn't be stated here (or i didn't see it!), Corticchiato is going to release a new fragrance in a limited edition (1000 bottles) and it's an extrait !
As you can see it's a reconstitution of the animalic musc but it containes tuberose too:
" leathery note, salted note, smoken resins and then tuberose"
http://musquemoi.blogspot.fr/2012/09...m-dempire.html

I'm really looking forward for it, those kind of unexpected association (as Cèdre by SL) is appealing me

[dollars&scents]

Interesting, thanks for the heads up.

[hedonist222]

Wow very interesting!

[Mon-Petit]

I smelled it , it did anything very interesting on my skin, a goat leather with salty notes and a fade tuberose with the time.. I expected somthing vibrating and hotter.

a deception for me

[hednic]

Will be looking out for this when it hits these shores.

[chocolateguy]

I tried it last month. Extremely strong. Very scary. Very dated. Smell like an old French lady Or maybe it is just not my type of scent.

[laph]

Any further thoughts on this one?

Is there other similar fragrances e.g. Muscs Koublai Khan or Bal a Versailles?

I'm thinking of going blind on this one (because I like both musky and leathery frags) but I'm finding it hard to get a handle on how this might smell from the reviews I've read so far.
I mean, does it even smell musky?
Also, what of the tuberose - what role does it play and how dominant is it?

Questions, questions, questions!

[thebeck]

Any further thoughts on this one?

Is there other similar fragrances e.g. Muscs Koublai Khan or Bal a Versailles?

I'm thinking of going blind on this one (because I like both musky and leathery frags) but I'm finding it hard to get a handle on how this might smell from the reviews I've read so far.
I mean, does it even smell musky?
Also, what of the tuberose - what role does it play and how dominant is it?

Questions, questions, questions!

I know some reviews refer to Musc Koublai Khan, but they don't smell similar at all. Musc Tonkin is unique to my nose. Very wearable, nothing skanky or challenging. Leathery is more like it the first hour, then musky after that. The tuberose to my nose is used to temper the overdose of styrax. The tuberose just floats just over the intoxicating base notes, with the over all effect of a very masculine floral. I bought a bottle I like it so much.

[d4N13L]

Wow sounds very good. Parfums d'Empire have a ultra solid line, with astonishing new releases that could born as a classic itselfs. They are THAT good. Their first Extrait should not disappoint.
Also their price point is excellent (110usd for 100ml, 75usd for 50ml and 150usd for 50ml EXTRAIT!!!)

[thebeck]

Wow sounds very good. Parfums d'Empire have a ultra solid line, with astonishing new releases that could born as a classic itselfs. They are THAT good. Their first Extrait should not disappoint.
Also their price point is excellent (110usd for 100ml, 75usd for 50ml and 150usd for 50ml EXTRAIT!!!)

Yes, Musc Tonkin is an extrait - 20% concentration. For those of you that enjoy either Fougere Bengale or Wazamba. Don't expect Musc Tonkin to have the lasting power or sillage of those two. Musc Tonkin wears a bit closer to the skin(making the sillage just perfect, and not too much) and the longevity is much shorter. Longevity is long enough to make it full bottle worthy.

By the way, my wife and I are sharing this bottle, so I guess the term unisex is in order.

Musc Tonkin is not scary, or dated, or smell like a French old lady, and surely not extremely strong. To me it's a very modern take on an old theme. Mostly synthetics mixed in a very artful way. There's only 1,000 bottles produced, and I'm glad I have one of them. I may just be buying a back up, it's that good.

[Rev320]

I know some reviews refer to Musc Koublai Khan, but they don't smell similar at all. Musc Tonkin is unique to my nose. Very wearable, nothing skanky or challenging. I'm not sure if I would even call it musky myself, leathery is more like it. The tuberose to my nose is used to temper the overdose of styrax. The tuberose just floats just over the intoxicating base notes, with the over all effect of a very masculine floral. I bought a bottle I like it so much.

Where did you purchase your bottle? I've only been able to find it available through Parfum d'Empire's website.

[thebeck]

Where did you purchase your bottle? I've only been able to find it available through Parfum d'Empire's website.

I bought from Parfum d'Empire website.

[mikeperez23]

The idea of this sounds interesting to me, but ultimately it sounds like a big fail for my nose with those notes

[noggs]

Hedonist, scent, and any other members in the Middle East: do you if this is available or will become available in Dubai or Doha?

Thanks.

[Rev320]

I called luckyscent and they said they should be getting some at the beginning of the year. No word on pricing though.

[thebeck]

I called luckyscent and they said they should be getting some at the beginning of the year. No word on pricing though.

It's now avaiable at Luckyscent
http://www.luckyscent.com/shop/secti...sc_Tonkin.html

[Rev320]

It's now avaiable at Luckyscent
http://www.luckyscent.com/shop/secti...sc_Tonkin.html

Thank you for the information. A family member has ordered me a bottle as an early birthday present .

[hedonist222]

Hedonist, scent, and any other members in the Middle East: do you if this is available or will become available in Dubai or Doha?

Thanks.

Coincidentally today I passed by Galeries Lafayette to ask about it.
It wasn't there and the car salesman masquerading as a perfume SA had no idea about it.

I'll give it a month to arrive, if not I'm buying it online.

[lucasai]

This week my decant of Musc Tonkin arrived and I decided to review it on my blog.

Feel welcome to check it out!

http://chemistinthebottle.wordpress....e-musc-tonkin/

[Rev320]

This week my decant of Musc Tonkin arrived and I decided to review it on my blog.

Feel welcome to check it out!

http://chemistinthebottle.wordpress....e-musc-tonkin/

Thank you for the review. My bottle should be arriving tomorrow can't wait to give it a sniff.

[Jardanel]

Thank you for the information. A family member has ordered me a bottle as an early birthday present .

I'll let my family celebrate my birthday before, during and after for this!

[noggs]

...I'll give it a month to arrive, if not I'm buying it online.

Tnanks. I might have to do the same.

[Furriner]

I ordered a bottle... it's supposed to arrive Monday.

[Tonyprince]

OK. I have a sample of this on right now and this is one serious perfume. It goes on like a super-musky old school fragrance. I'd call it "womanly" rather than "feminine." It then goes through a more unisex Aramis-like floral stage before getting a bit fresh and soapy with that underlying strong musk receding into the background, but still very much present. I don't think it's quite my kind of thing, but it's obviously a very high quality uncommercial offering at a reasonable price. Lucky Scent is sold out of it already, but they think they can still get more. I would strongly recommend it to people who like this kind of fragrance.

[senore01]

Excellent review. Thank you.

[arwen_elf]

I know some reviews refer to Musc Koublai Khan, but they don't smell similar at all. Musc Tonkin is unique to my nose. Very wearable, nothing skanky or challenging. Leathery is more like it the first hour, then musky after that. The tuberose to my nose is used to temper the overdose of styrax. The tuberose just floats just over the intoxicating base notes, with the over all effect of a very masculine floral. I bought a bottle I like it so much.

This sounds intriguing. I like all PdE offerings, of course, I like some better than others but I can't wait to try it. I hope I am not disappointed. I also trust Mon Petit impressions through the years. Definitely not a blind purchase.

[hednic]

Wonderful scent. Recently received my bottle from Luckyscent. Totally pleased.

[MorganFay]

I got mine from Beautyhabit, but they seem to be sold out of it too. I love Cuir Ottoman, Ambre Russe and Azemour, so just had to get a bottle!

[Sugandaraja]

My first blind buy in a LONG time. It seems like it's selling out in a hurry. Very eager to sniff this one.

[hobbes22]

I blind bought this too, just got it yesterday.

To me, Musc Tonkin is the opening of MKK held out for the entire ride. If you enjoy MKK but prefer the opening to the floral drydown, then Musc Tonkin could be right up your alley.

I already love this stuff - shame it is a limited release and might become hard to find.

[bgoc]

EUR144 for UK customers (120+24) direct from Parfum d'Empire. Sold out on luckyscent however.

I am looking to buy blind, what is the sillage/projection/longevity on these?

- - - Updated - - -

Just noticed most Parfum d'Empire bottles are 100ml for EUR92 but this is half the bottle at 1.5 times the price?

[d4N13L]

EUR144 for UK customers (120+24) direct from Parfum d'Empire. Sold out on luckyscent however.

I am looking to buy blind, what is the sillage/projection/longevity on these?

- - - Updated - - -

Just noticed most Parfum d'Empire bottles are 100ml for EUR92 but this is half the bottle at 1.5 times the price?

Its Concentrated as Pure Parfum, Extrait. That could be muuuuch more expensive (chanel asks 120usd for 7.5ml of extrait)

[PigeonMurderer]

I am a huge fan of this house in general and a particular perfumer, but there is one tiny flaw in this specific fragrance : it is bollocks.

[laph]

I am a huge fan of this house in general and a particular perfumer, but there is one tiny flaw in this specific fragrance : it is bollocks.

Can you elaborate? Not sure what you mean....

[knightowl]

I am a huge fan of this house in general and a particular perfumer, but there is one tiny flaw in this specific fragrance : it is bollocks.

Oh shit...the Pigeon Murderer is back. Everyone run for your lives!

[Sugandaraja]

I am a huge fan of this house in general and a particular perfumer, but there is one tiny flaw in this specific fragrance : it is bollocks.

Floating in it? Like the worm in the tequila?

[Nasenmann]

Received mine today and my first impression (nothing more) is: MKK may just have been dethroned. Usually I loathe tuberose heavy fragrances and actually do associate it with obnoxious rich old lady - but not here! This one is timeless and unisex in the best way imaginable. Many (seemingly) opposites masterfully combined. Surely not for everybody, just like MKK.

[MonkeyBars]

At first I really enjoyed the fresh green musky character. Then a searing accord singed my nose: calone. There's not a ton, but it's there, unfortunately. No-go for me.

[d4N13L]

I have to say that I prefer the drydown of MKK over the opening. Also calone is a thing that I didnt like that much.
Also some people say that its not that powerful. I think I will pass.

[MonkeyBars]

Also some people say that its not that powerful.

It seems very potent to me -- not surprised it's considered an extrait.

[Nasenmann]

So far I'd say it has good longevity. In terms of projection it starts out strong but after something over an hour it leans more towards the lower end (not a skin scent, mind you) and stays there.

On another note, I think this one is best suited for mature (which doesn't equal "old") wearers and also demands something a bit more classy than jeans and t-shirt to go with it. In that regard it's in the same boat as Patou Pour Homme or Pure Distance's M, for example (smells totally different though).

[laph]

Interesting fragrance this one. From very early impressions I'd say it more in the vein of Noir Patch, Mona Oud or UFdC than MKK or any other musk. A different take on a dirty floral if you will. I think this is why people are seeing it as suitable for a certain age. The oceanic/salty note was a surprise. Very much in the vein of the original HdP Edition Rare trio - same note/s in fact.
Need to do more skin testing to get under it. So far, very nice, very different and very potent!

[scent]

The best release of 2012...BY FAR! This starts out with a blast of leathery civet, while slowly the indolic florals start to creep in. I can smell mostly rose with a bit of jasmine. The fragrance then starts to settle into quite a vintage-y feel and reminds me of my vintage Chanel 5 extrait with a heavily animalic, real musk and civet base. There is defintely an abudance of iris because 20 minutes in, MT becomes quite powdery. Once the basenotes start to appear, I can smell resins; lots and lots of them. Most notabely, styrax and benzoin. It's sweet, but not dessert-like in anyway, shape or feel; more like an opulent oriental of yore. MT stays incredibly animalic, leathery and oriental in feel throughout its entire duration. Imagine vintage Opium extrait...with a more animalic, distinctly leathery, extremely human feel to it.

[Sugandaraja]

The best release of 2012...BY FAR! This starts out with a blast of leathery civet, while slowly the indolic florals start to creep in. I can smell mostly rose with a bit of jasmine. The fragrance then starts to settle into quite a vintage-y feel and reminds me of my vintage Chanel 5 extrait with a heavily animalic, real musk and civet base. There is defintely an abudance of iris because 20 minutes in, MT becomes quite powdery. Once the basenotes start to appear, I can smell resins; lots and lots of them. Most notabely, styrax and benzoin. It's sweet, but not dessert-like in anyway, shape or feel; more like an opulent oriental of yore. MT stays incredibly animalic, leathery and oriental in feel throughout its entire duration. Imagine vintage Opium extrait...with a more animalic, distinctly leathery, extremely human feel to it.

Yikes. I'm SO hoping my bottle arrives soon. That's like reading fragrance-description porn.

[Partario]

Smelled it last week. Have to agree that it does have a major old-school French sort of vibe, but it is good. Not for me, but good nonetheless.

[Jkidd]

God...I hate that I missed this one. Guess I'll purchase a decant

Update: I received my decant of Musc tonkin from the perfumed court today and I have never been MORE upset. I'm upset that I missed this one while it was on sale at Luckyscent! This is by far... the greatest musk fragrance I have ever sniffed. It's not the dirty barnyard scent at all. It's a familiar type of human scent (very natural) that's extremely intoxicating. It has been on my skin for an hour and it is so sexy!! If you highly respect the art of perfume (which most of us on this site do), you have to treat yourself to at least a 5 ml decant of this fragrance.

[bgoc]

Still available.
http://www.parfumdempire.fr/en/catalogue.html

[Sugandaraja]

I must admit I rode the hype train long and hard on this and wound up a little let down.

It's not a bad scent: sambac-jasmine and osmanthus with a chilly-salty aquatic side, sort of a descendent of J'Adore and all its shampoo-y descendents blended with the steely-salty-oily note noticeable in Ambrarem and Petroleum of the recent Histoires de Parfums trio. There is a little skank too, but it's pretty well buried compared with most other scents ( including the one it's typically pitted against, Muscs Koublai Khan ).

It's a solid yet diaphanous floral and adds something to the PdE line it didn't have before, but if you're expecting the niche skankzilla musk this isn't it. If you're looking for super-skank of the year then head over to Monegal's Ambra di Luna.

[Larimar]

Thanks Suga for clearing up the 'hype fog' a bit. Either it comes to my local store for sniffing or it doesn't.

[furrypine]

It's not a bad scent: sambac-jasmine and osmanthus with a chilly-salty aquatic side, sort of a descendent of J'Adore and all its shampoo-y descendents blended with the steely-salty-oily note noticeable in Ambrarem and Petroleum of the recent Histoires de Parfums trio. There is a little skank too, but it's pretty well buried compared with most other scents ( including the one it's typically pitted against, Muscs Koublai Khan ).

Sugandaraja, how would you compare it with La Nuit EDP by Paco Rabanne? I could definitely go for Musc Tonkin if it's a more well-behaved cousin of La Nuit, one I could be seen with in daylight

[MonkeyBars]

It's not a bad scent: sambac-jasmine and osmanthus with a chilly-salty aquatic side, sort of a descendent of J'Adore and all its shampoo-y descendents blended with the steely-salty-oily note noticeable in Ambrarem and Petroleum of the recent Histoires de Parfums trio.

This was exactly my experience. Quite shampoo-y, almost soapy, with a small dose of calone.

[Sugandaraja]

Sugandaraja, how would you compare it with La Nuit EDP by Paco Rabanne? I could definitely go for Musc Tonkin if it's a more well-behaved cousin of La Nuit, one I could be seen with in daylight

I love La Nuit but this is not anything like it. I know the noise - Skank! MKK! Old School French! But it's not really like that.

This is a very modern-smelling scent. Clean, salty, bright... Closer to Womanity than La Nuit.

[Furriner]

I find it closer to Musc Nomade than MKK.

[furrypine]

I love La Nuit but this is not anything like it. I know the noise - Skank! MKK! Old School French! But it's not really like that.

This is a very modern-smelling scent. Clean, salty, bright... Closer to Womanity than La Nuit.

Thanks! I think my interest is fading. Womanity wasn't that great and I don't think I need something that leans in that direction.

[MonkeyBars]

I think the opening is quite interesting and different. Then the calone comes in and I head for the sink.

[Jkidd]

oh shit...the pigeon murderer is back. Everyone run for your lives!

lmao

[iivanita]

i got a chance to test this, was not aware of any information about this scent,

i read somehwere it has some real musk in it so was curious to try it, since i also never smelled musk that doesnt give off that shampoo note, or detergent like note, was curious as well, and it is very different take on musc. it smells like nice imitation of animalic muscs, which i never tried but imagine .

i did notice from the start its very oily and heavy , intensive kind of perfume, and opening smells really very rich musky animalic, and sweet, its heavy sweetnes like musky perfumes are, and very good imitation!

Later after 1-2 hours starts getting that crazy metalic note, wich gives of synthetics origin, metalic jasmine maybe? it did not call jasmine sambac in my memory...but floral it is...maybe that sweetness comes from tuberose, but overal its very feminine scent to me, i think its nicely done since today it is impossible to make better musc then this.
But the late drydown is very boring, synthetic and hairspray for women

good thing is i did not smell that typical clean, shampoo like, modern, detergent note that modern musks all have, its sweet floral musky thing, its not civety to my nose at all, that musk animalic note is the best achievement of this perfume, and who loves it should try it...it has no civet at all.

[cacio]

Resurrecting this since I tried this last week, I think in the parfum version. I imagined a musky powerhouse, a la MKK or Ferme tes yeux, but it is not. The top is indeed musky, but sort of a muted version of Ferme tes yeux. Then it seems to disappear - I was probably under nose fatigue, but still, it was light, and considerably cleaner. After the interesting start, I must say it's a bit disappointing, and I don't think it'll go on my to-buy list.

The people at Jovoy (who didn't have it, they only had a carafe for testing) said it should come back in the fall, though I'm not sure it was an informed statement.

cacio

[hedonist222]

Cacio, had you tried the original parfum extrait?

I recall reading that the reissue (in edp) is materially different from the extrait.

[cacio]

No, that was my first time trying it. And as said, I'm not even sure of which concentration it was, nor the vintage. It was in an unmarked caraffe (literally), the label beneath said parfum, but it might have been edp.

cacio