Sample Of The Day: OCTOBER 2012

[forfreddie]

Hello all - hopefully a nice busy month of sampling on here!

Tonight's sample was Rose D'Homme by Les Parfums De Rosine

A bright, juicy citrus opening of bergamot and sweet orange sparkled with a little bit of aldehde, turns into a slightly camphorous lavender before an undercurrent of soapy powder takes full force.
When the rose finally comes in it is dried out to an almost potpourri like texture, the powder doesn't help with this.
The camphorous bit of lavender is felt for a little longer as a sour patchouli comes in and pulls it's herbal notes into the heart. A leathery tone comes in but is very plastic-y, almost like vinyl.
The rose doesn't get any better, and the hideous powder becomes overwhelming with a sticky, hairspray like consistency.
I'm relieved when it dries down into a talcom powder so I can blow it off my skin and forget this fragrance exists

[teardrop]

Thanks for starting the new thread, freddie, l hope your month of sampling improves after this!

l've still got the rest of your ELd'O samples to go through, plus l've just put in a bumper order with Luckyscent that'll keep me going for a while! Watch this space....

[forfreddie]

Ooooh exciting, looking forward to reading all your discoveries and failures teardrop

- - - Updated - - -

Today's sample was Haute Claire by Aftelier



Haute Claire opens with an intense honeyed floral and overly narcotic ylang-ylang. Cut across with a bitter galbanum, the fragrance is intense, heady and pollen rich.
At the very top is an almost marmalade like lime and orange, which later turns into a candied lemon drop and I'm sure there's some magnolia in there too.
Once it settles it gets more and more beautiful, like a concetrated tropical garden, but devoid of the typical tropical associations (coconut, tuberose, tiare etc). It's absolutely exquisit start to finish, ending with a vetiver and vanilla.
It's like a mashup between Onda EDP, Mito EDP overlaid with brilliant ylang. I love it and will have to own a bottle soon!

Full review here

[cello]

^^^that sounds interesting forfreddie! And not my style at all, so of course I have to sample it. Actually, I need to go through several of that line, and will soon.

[forfreddie]

^^^that sounds interesting forfreddie! And not my style at all, so of course I have to sample it. Actually, I need to go through several of that line, and will soon.

You must! Literally, the whole line has altered my "fragrant journey" massively. I can't praise Aftelier enough.
It took a while to get used to the naturals, but the scents are outstanding - and many of her compositions are almost avant-garde in how over the top and complicated they are. Hope you get around to sampling

[Alityke]

I've now been in PG Tonkamande for 13 hrs and I'm still in my own perfume cloud bubble.

Tonkamande opened sweetly with a fudgey almond accord, there was a confection I made in primary school called gundy which had a tiny drop of vinegar added to it and this smells like almonds covered in gundy. Then the almonds become ground and soaked in acidulated water to get almond milk and there is something of a Danish pastry here too. I find some linearity in Tonkamande you'll notice.

The dry down which has nuclear longevity is rich with vanilla, woods and is less sweetened than the opening, which is good as 13+ hrs of nutty patisserie would become trying.

I know I'm late to the party but I love this and a lemming has been created

[forfreddie]

Alityke my mouth is watering!!! One of the few gourmands of the PG line I haven't tried! I need it D:

[teardrop]

Today l tried Guess by Marciano.

For me this one is dominated by a sweet amber from beginning to end, with various other nuances along the way. ln the opening it is joined by orange, & in the heart it smooths out into a fruity-floral-amber, with honeysuckle the most prominent floral note. The base has a slightly boozy aspect. lt wears very close to the skin, fading out after around five hours.
l would say this is more "grown up" than the usual mainstream fruity florientals, but this is a "like", not a "love", for me.

[forfreddie]

Today I samples Ubar by Amouage thanks to Ali

An over the top aldehydic, bright orange opening, undercut with a musky civet and huge floral bouquet.
As the citrus quietens, the jasmine grandiflorum comes out first, followed by a spicy, clove-y lily, and then the clean jammy rose.
A dash of powder scatters over the top and a sandalwood supports underneath.
As it tames, it leads into a rose/patchouli dry down but with the jasmine and now lily of the valley closely to the side. A rich orange blossom is in there also - and a hint of vanilla.
At a point in the heart it smells very similar to Lou Lou by Cacharel only more refined, but still very reminicent, thankfully it retreats from this direction after a few minutes (that got me worried).
I can thoroughly appreciate this and would recommend it to many, I can wear it comfortable but it doesn't suit me at all. Still, a thoroughly enjoyable sniff and my first real taste of Amouage. A gorgeously rich, classy perfume.
Thank you Ali!

[ladymurasaki]

A bunch of freebies, including perfume samples, have just arrived at my door step. I had such high hopes for the new Petale Noir... There's nothing noir about it. The opening is acquatic and floral. A very pretty scent, but rather generic. I don't think I'll be going for a full bottle.

Noir... where art thou?!

[Alityke]

I am definitely over blessed with deliveries this week for today the 12 sample pack of gardenias I won on Perfume Posse arrived from StC's wonderful Patty. SotM had faded so I took pot luck and dived in to randomly select Tom Ford Velvet Gardenia. Having read he mushroomy reviews of this I was intrigued. The sample is big enough for a few wears rather than a sniff, so I dabbed wrists, cleavage and collar bone.

The opening fumes crept upon me slowly, stealthily I smelt the whole gardenia bush, with just a single fading flower. Now many moons ago I bought my Mum a gardenia to keep indoors and she has cared for it better than she ever cared or me, hence it's still healthy but the wood is gnarled and the leaves are still shiny and each flower has its moment of perfection before it turns brown and the next bud opens. The opening of TF VG smells exactly like Mums drawing room when the buh s blooming. Yes there is the smell of earth, compost and a certain mushroominess reminiscent of Chesswood canned fungi. A touch of turned red wine yeastiness. This lasts 15 minutes max, then ppffftt! It settles into a sweet pretty white floral that is a skin scent, it hasn't even scented my t-shirt! At 2 hrs it's left me. Nothing on my watch strap even.

Overall I appreciate those Chesswood tinned mushrooms in the holographically realistic opening. The sudden disappearance of any interest and short life mean this will be a no from me. Yes I'm pleased I melt it but pay money for it? No

Freddie if Ubar was a woman I think she'd be Shirley Bassey in full on diva mode, amazing skin tight red gown and diamonds don't you think?

[teardrop]

Congrats Ali on winning those gardenia samples, l look forward to reading all of your impressions!

[forfreddie]

My sample of the day was Lumiere by Aftelier

Unlike anything else in her line - this fragrance is a perfect ethereal/translucent fragrance which is amazing considering it's made by all naturals (they are normally so overpowering and intense in the line).
It opens with a honeyed pear aroma (phenyl ethyl acetate) - followed by what I percieve as linden blossom, osmanthus, jasmine, and honeysuckle - although blended into something lightly pollen rich but desperately smooth and quiet.
It's base has a hint of ambergris and green tea, a whipser of incense - whilst all entwining into a sheer floral of utter minimalism and clarity. It's longevity isn't great but I do keep catching whiffs of it. It's not my style at all, but hugely impressive.

Full review here

[cello]

Sample of the day (actually last evening ) is Rose Kashmirie by Les Parfums de Rosine.

This one blasted out of the gate with a big, red, dewy and lush ROSE. Caught me a bit by surprise! A dash of citrus is in there, but mostly all rose. The saffron is introduced as a dusting, and I find it a wonderful complement without overpowering the rose. These two notes dominate the scent until a soft and sweet vanilla musk finishes it off.

I find this a nice fragrance, albeit maybe a bit predictable. All the notes are well blended and transition with ease from one to the other. It did seem to wear fairly close after the introduction, but it was nice regardless. There is nothing jarring here, except the immediate introduction of the rose. But I guess from a house called Les Parfums de Rosine you expect them to get right down to business.

Nice fragrance, and it was pleasant to sample.

[forfreddie]

Tonight's sample was L'Orchidee Terrible by Imaginary Authors

Full (huge) review here

A fragrance which was meant to evoke a classic aldehydic, clean floral. Instead, it's a hugely bizarre heavily aldehydic fragrance (the strong soapy aquatic kind) - with a sweet translucent honey underneath. The florals of orchid, lily of the valley, lilac, and a bit of jasmine - merge into something flourescent and soapy, whilst this huge metallic buzz pulsates throughout. A vanilla and white musk underneath congeals with this metallic note and the fragrance comes across as a more translucent Secretions Magnifique meets Odeur 71 - it's fab!! It is a little out of balance, but it manages to merge itself in the end, and it's a fun ride which makes me laugh throughout. God knows if I'd wear this but I would like a bottle, it was a very unexpected surprise!!

[cello]

Freddie, I read on your blog that you were sampling this line. Thanks for posting your thoughts on these. I just love the idea and concept behind their line.

[forfreddie]

Freddie, I read on your blog that you were sampling this line. Thanks for posting your thoughts on these. I just love the idea and concept behind their line.

I do too! A lot of time this kind of imagery, marketing and often forceful "WE'RE MODERN" approach can come across as cringeworthy or the fragrances don't match - I was so relieved when I sniffed these, they definitely fill a little gap in the perfume world at the minute. They all share a highly synthetic vibe but I really like that :') Most of them have surprised me hugely so far as well - perfect!

[catnip_too]

Hi everyone!

The sample of the day is By Kilian In the City of Sin. I have to admit that I like Calice Becker's compositions. They possess a certain unmistakable sensuality. In the City of Sin is my favorite of the new series In the Garden of Good and Evil (what's up with the names?). It opens on a fruity accord, in which two of my favorites--plum and apricot--could be perceived. I love the subtle tartness, which I also find in Dangerous Liaisons. Individual notes, however, are difficult to identify because, as usual, everything is blended to perfection in Becker's perfumes. I can feel the rose, which never moves to the foreground. I don't distinctly sense incense or patchouli. They are more of shadows rather than a true presence. Overall, this feels jammy, with the characteristic viscosity of other perfumes in this line. I still prefer Dangerous Liaisons, though.

[cello]

catnip, I've been curious about those frags so thanks for posting. Being from Georgia, where Midnight In the Garden of Good and Evil by John Berendt hails from, I always wondered if the frag names were a nod to the book and/or Savannah, Georgia. Don't know for sure, but it certainly could be an influence. I don't live in Georgia anymore, but still have fond memories and associations with the area.

My sample of the day, and also last night, was Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur. A leather and floral, by name

This is just down right beautiful. It is full leather with floral nuances, but yet it has a transilluminate quality. It is full, but yet austere. It is just as it's name indicates, but ever so easy to wear. I often do not wear leathers to work as I find the barnyard effect possibly too much for the average Joe. I own Cuir de Russe, but often don't wear it out of the house, instead preferring it for evening and bedtime where I enjoy the rich, full fragrance. Cuir Pleine Fleur is accessible. I wore it to work today with easy confidence that I could enjoy my experience, and yet nobody would think a second thought about my choice. It sits with ease on your skin and becomes the smell of you, but yet you are able to enjoy it's full leather, birch, bitter yet soft smell all day long. It is very close wearing and light.

I immediately thought this would be a great introduction to leather for even the most timid, and I think I am right. There is absolutely nothing to scare anyone away - no fecal effect, no harshness, no chemical blast, and even no overpowering leather. It just is blending to perfection - soft, subtle leather with a dash of floral edge.

Stunning to me. I prefer it to the Chanel and to Cuir de Lancome, although the Chanel has a hugh iris note that I enjoy. I may end up with a bottle of this - my highest compliment! I am going to overapply for my next wearing and see if I can bring out more, or see if it becomes too much. But I really think it will still just hum along with it's easy message of soft leather.

And some days you win with your sample choice!!!

[Alityke]

Sample today is Malle l'Eau d'Hiver. My introduction to Malle and I chose to sample this for the almond/heliotropin note. I opened very gently straight into almond blossom, pretty then moved nearer to the nut always avoiding the marzipan association. That was it! Yes I have a cold so will definitely try again but on first sample I found it pretty, but not as interesting as Floris Madonna of the Almonds which I picked up 100mls of for less than £50

[catnip_too]

Cello, you are most welcome! I was curious about them, too.

I had to wonder whom they were targeting with a niche fragrance called Good Girl Gone Bad.... On to Good Girl Gone Bad: Well, this particular girl doesn't have a bad bone in her aromatic body (could it be a reference to the beginning of the 20th century, when girls with questionable reputations used to wear white flowers?). It has a sensual texture, very much in the vein of Becker's style, but instead of with a fruit accord like in In the City of Sin, it starts with a bouquet of white flowers. I am still learning to recognize narcissus, but I think this is the flower that makes it somewhat interesting for me here. The tuberose shouldn't be too suffocating even for someone who is not fond of the note. The flowers are almost honeyed, but the sweetness is counterbalanced by blond cedar. I am tempted to say I also smell vetiver, but after checking the notes, I don't think vetiver is listed at all. It is very well done although it is not particularly original. Unfortunately, it is not my type of scent, either.

[forfreddie]

Great sampling everyone!

Today's samples were Golconda and Diamond Water from JAR



Golconda is just one big, warm, spicy, clove-laden carnation with a hint of banana-ry ylang ylang up top. A little indolic jasmine stays in the background and up top is a little citrus hard candy. It settles pretty linear, with a drywood in the base, but rich carnation throughout - a very nice soliflore, but I prefer Guerlain's Terracotta Voile D'Ete with it's rich vanilla base

Diamond Water opens with a muted coconut and a hit of really sour lime over a crystal clear translucency. A white fleshy floral that I guess is tuberose comes up next, followed by a cool carnation - much less cloves and with less heat. It's an extremely subtle tropical carnation - a bizarre combination - but the coconut and lime remain in the distance throughout. The clove note is subtle but warm and complimentary. The base is a little smoky with smooth wood. VERY nice, but not amazing.

[teardrop]

Today l sampled two more ELd'O scents, courtesy of freddie .

First, Tilda Swinton Like This;

This smells to me almost exactly like Ginger by Lush/Gorilla Perfume, but quieter. For most of its duration l get candied ginger in syrup, but it's dry rather than overly sweet. l don't know what pumpkin smells like, so l can't say that l smell it here. Neither am l familiar with immortelle as a note, but l'm guessing that's what produces the dry effect. ln the base l get a little vetiver & some sandalwood, before it begins to fade around four hours in.
l think this fragrance is very comforting, perfect for autumn, & also makes me think of Christmas. lt's made me want to buy another bottle of Ginger, too!

Second, Fils de Dieu du Riz et des Agrumes;

This smells just like a Thai green curry, complete with lemongrass, coriander, lime leaves & coconut rice. lt's quite delicious, but l'm not sure l would want to smell like this all that often! l get a little musk in the base, & five hours in it's just fading.

These are both incredibly well-executed fragrances to my nose, if a little lacking in longevity. l am definitely warming to this line, as it seems that even if they are not to one's taste, these fragrances certainly stand out from the crowd!

[forfreddie]

Lovely to read your write ups teardrop.
I was underwhelmed by Like This - exactly like you I found it very tame, not quite sweet, not quite spicy... but pleasant enough but the drydown was very boring.
If you are interested by the immortelle note, I can send you a sample of Sables (pure immortelle overload) and Chypre Rouge (showing how immortelle can be used beautifully blended)? Let me know

Tonight I sampled Bull's Blood by Imaginary Authors.

Opens with a briny note of pungent black olives (which I think is a mirage of plum?) - and then quickly up comes a ton of dry bitter cinnamon, then clean tea rose and metallic patchouli.
The rose patchouli combo is lovely, with the heated cinnamon over the top getting more and more translucent.
Underneath is a powerful animalic musk, maybe a tiny drop of oud, tobacco and costus root which is extremely dirty for the first half an hour of the fragrance before it settles into something smoother and much easier to wear.
A very nice fragrance, not something I would really wear - but a kind of cross between Oud 27 and Voleur De Roses.

[teardrop]

That's most kind of you dear freddie, l'll send you a PM.

[catnip_too]

I am afraid I'll have to echo forfreddie's comment about being underwhelmed by Like This. It is an interesting fragrance, in which my nose smells raw, freshly-sliced pumpkin, but I never felt the urge to wear it. Well, maybe during this time of the year....

I am sampling the new Cartier Declaration D'un Soir, and I can't see any reason this flanker is actually marketed specifically for men. This is actually very rosy. I read a description of this fragrance mentioning roses "with thorns," but there are no thorns to be found here. This is a slightly herby and pleasantly spicy. It is also a bright and fresh rose. I love cardamom; I use it meals, in tea, and I can usually identify it in a fragrance, but I don't sense it clearly in Declaration D'un Soir. The pink pepper is more prominent. This will be an easy to wear rose fragrance, with just a touch of spice, without any heavy notes.

[Alityke]

This evening I'm testing Habanita Edt side by side with Habanita EdP 2012. The Edt opens harsh, bitter, green the EdP sweeter, less challenging but recognisably Habanita. As the Edt dries it turns into an unused cellar, dark, dusty, slightly mossy definitely green but makes me think a little like something unpleasant is lurking in that cellar. The new EdP misses this phase and goes straight into honeyed, vanillaed baccy and stays there. Soft, sweet, close, unchallenging, enjoyable yet modern.

The Edt is still morphing, unsweetened vanilla, greened up and real smoke. Yep sniff too deep and I cough! That could be my post coryzal sinus irritation admittedly.

The EdP is an excellent modernisation of Habanita, recognisable but with the challenging transitions smoothed out. The EdP has less sillage and is prettier.

Now to the duckling that is the Edt. Bitter, green, harsh, musty, dissonant, nerve jangling then out walks a swan! All groomed and soinee, peeping out from long lashed, side glancing eyes that promise much but guarantee nothing.

Notes? Vetiver, galbanum, vanilla, honeyed tobacco and smoke are those I recognise as I get no floral or rosiness.

If you find the Edt mid too much but love the rest, buy the EdP. Habanita is still there after 90 years but now suitable for today's modern woman. One who works, has a family and no longer has to battle with clouds of fags everywhere. Totally in keeping with her original remit in fact

[teardrop]

Thanks for this comparison, Ali! l am glad l bought a bottle of the EDT while l still could, but l feel reassured that l will still enjoy the EDP when my bottle runs out.

[forfreddie]

Sample of the day is Classic Mimosa by Von Eusersdorff

Starts with a fresh, rounded note of leaf alcohol (an aromachemical that smells like petrol and grass) - some slight citrus florals (neroli) make it bright and sunny up top, before some powdery florals, mainly violet, come in.
After a short while the mimosa joins in - a slight almond powder but with a papery texture, slightly bitter and really lovely. A tinge of rose that turns into more of a geranium note joins in, along with some salty marine notes. The combination of salt and violet brings to mind Dans Tes Bras only this is instantly more appealing with the warm mimosa note.
The base brings a bit of vanilla, a clean musk, a smidge of vetiver, a hint of driftwood and a resinous orange blossom (a tame one though). It's a perfect spring/summer fragrance that is light, fresh, slightly aquatic - but avoids the overuse of calone or dense synthetic attempts at translucency.
Not really a sample as the perfumer gifted me with a 10ml mini, but it's the first time I've worn it properly I like this one!

[teardrop]

Today l tried Archives 69 by ELd'O.

For the first hour or so l find it hard to identify notes in this one, but l mainly get the sweet juiciness of fruit without the actual fruit, (if that makes any sense!) along with a little pepper. ln the heart it starts to make more sense, when the benzoin & a rather lovely incense note join the mix. The overall impression is an interesting hybrid of freshness & warmth, & l swear l smell ambergris in the base, although it's not listed. The projection is good, & five hours in it's just starting to fade.

l'm not sure l'd wear this often as l don't really do "fruity", but l enjoyed the drydown, & l think this is a very likeable fragrance, easily unisex.