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  1. #31
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by Perfume_Addict View Post
    I wrote my answers offline before reading the other responses. I think I know (and considered buying) this scent. I’ve lost my sample, so can’t compare and will also note that my track record is not very good.
    1. How does S01E05 make you feel? What mood does it create? When would you see yourself wearing it? Do you think others like it on you?
    For me, S01E05 creates the feeling of floating in the middle of a great body of water. Serene, alone, but alert to the sun, waves, sounds. This feels like a warm-weather fragrance to me, although it didn’t feel out of place in the office on an autumn day. I’m not sure most people would recognize this as a “perfume” on me. I don’t think it calls attention to itself, and to the extent people notice, I think they would perceive it more as just a nice smell than an intentional fragrance.
    2. In what way would you describe this fragrance as “less”? Is it minimalist?
    This is definitely minimalist. It’s not the single molecule sparseness of Molecule 001, but it has very clean uncluttered lines. I can understand the Mies van der Rohe reference.
    3. In what way is the fragrance “more”? Is it plush, rich, saturated? Is it sexy or sensual, and why? Is it romantic (in the 18th century sense), and why?
    There is a sensual quality to floating in a lake or ocean, and as I mentioned above, I get that from S01E05. If there is a “more” it’s the vastness of the ocean being floated upon. Wearing this doesn’t make me feel sexy, but it has occurred to me that I’d find it kind of sexy if I smelled it on my significant other.
    4. Burr says the fragrance is literal, almost photo realism. Do you experience that characteristic, and if so, what do you think it is about the fragrance that causes this impression?
    I think the object referenced by S01E05 is sea (salt), and I do see it as a literal translation. I don’t get salt in the sense of the saltiness of sweat; it’s a more mineral salt. I recognize vetiver and cedar contributing to the effect. The beginning of the scent, which does evolve on the skin, has citrus notes, but to me they’re not really part of what creates the sea-salt impression. There is also an undefined green note that some seem to be interpreting as cucumber. Well, maybe sea cucumber? Ironically, I think the sea shells in the Romantic-style painting I posted are peeking out of this scent, too!
    Even though we're seeing this in different ways (you on the water, me on the agro-seas of Kansas), I think it's fascinating that we're getting the same kind of spatial thing. And the same level of "sexy" - as in not overtly, but that it's definitely *nice*, and could contribute to it.

    I tried to avoid picking apart the dry, earthy parts of it, because I wanted to just experience that. I think it was more like brine or dried sea-salt to you, and more like plant dust to me. I think we are bringing our closest experiences to the fragrance.

    Quote Originally Posted by Perfume_Addict View Post
    I think its interesting that we both mentioned the idea of being alone when smelling this, and its not being a perfume. What does that mean, do you think?
    Great questions. My immediate response - almost flippant, but not meant that way - is that perhaps it's showing us that this thing really is artistic. That it's all about experiencing it, best done alone, and not about wearing it as something to catch the attention of others, like we tend to think of a perfume.

    So much of personal fragrance is wrapped up in other people smelling it. This thing just seems unconcerned with that. I even compared it to a very artistic green scent (similar, but not the same), and THAT fragrance seemed more like a perfume. This one feels less like a true perfume, and more like a parfum d'ambiance. Yet TOTALLY wearable.
    * * * *

  2. #32

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    Great questions. My immediate response - almost flippant, but not meant that way - is that perhaps it's showing us that this thing really is artistic. That it's all about experiencing it, best done alone, and not about wearing it as something to catch the attention of others, like we tend to think of a perfume.

    So much of personal fragrance is wrapped up in other people smelling it. This thing just seems unconcerned with that. I even compared it to a very artistic green scent (similar, but not the same), and THAT fragrance seemed more like a perfume. This one feels less like a true perfume, and more like a parfum d'ambiance. Yet TOTALLY wearable.
    Not at all flippant, and agree, it may be the way we prefer to experience it as art as opposed to attire.

  3. #33
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by Babsvs View Post
    I received my E05 today. I am not ready for any kind of real description of it. I can say that the opening is unique. For about 5 seconds there is some wood, and then there is a green, vegetable sort of note with some lemon and salt. I have to be honest, it smells like cucumber to me.
    Everything you're saying now makes sense to me. I'm actually glad I waited before reading your thoughts!

    Yes - that green, vegatal note *really* jumped out at me. That was the thing I really noticed.

    Quote Originally Posted by Babsvs View Post
    I now feel ready to answer perfume addict's questions

    1. I am sorry to say that S05 did not evoke any feeling in me, and I can't see myself wearing it. That might change, and I might change toward it, but I didn't get a strong feeling of any sort. It certainly seems well contructed with a green/citrus opening, a floral green heart and a very long lasting wood drydown.
    I think I would have said the same, had I not already some experience with the scent. But going back to when I did first wear it, I remember debating whether it was something I would want to wear - whether I could, at that time, see myself wearing it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Babsvs View Post
    2. It is minimalist in that I did not smell a bouquet of notes. I got citrus, something green (cucumber?) and salt up top. The cucumber proceeded into the heart, and became a green floral. The drydown seemed like one wood note for quite a long time. I did get more is more only in the duration of the wood drydown. The scent is not at all sensual in my opinion. I did not get the reference to the song Mr. Burr referenced in E05.
    Agreed on it being minimalist for the same reason. And I get what you're saying about it not being sensual. And I'm still scratching my head about the song, but I don't really know it, so I'm giving benefit of the doubt on that for now.

    Quote Originally Posted by Babsvs View Post
    3. E05 does not strike me as plush or rich. The wood and cucumber/citrus are saturated. As mentioned above, this is not my idea of sexy or sensual, but surely that is subjective. It is not at all romantic in the 18th century sense of the word. Romantics like Goethe (Young Werther), Byron, Keats, Whitman or Delacroix were concerned with the beauty of nature, the sensitivity of the artist, and spirituality. To quote Whitman from Song of Myself

    Houses and rooms are full of perfumes, the shelves are
    crowded with perfumes,
    I breathe the fragrance myself and know it and like it,
    The distillation would intoxicate me also, but I shall not let it.

    The atmosphere is not a perfume, it has no taste of the
    distillation, it is odorless,
    It is for my mouth forever, I am in love with it,
    I will go to the bank by the wood and become undisguised
    and naked,
    I am mad for it to be in contact with me.


    When I think of a scent that is in the romantic tradition, using pretty much anything by the painter Delacroix as a reference, I think of Jubilation XXV or Portrait of a Lady.
    Agreed - not plush or rich, unless measured from an EDC perspective, and even then, I don't quite see either descriptor. I can definitely see JXXV and PoaL as being analogous to many Romantic paintings.

    Quote Originally Posted by Babsvs View Post
    4. I did get a very strong literal image of a cucumber. I think that it is very possible that I have this note completely wrong. I did spend a fair amount of time with the top, but I need to try it again. I think that I may have had a literal image in my mind from the text. I saw an overgrown garden with rich dark earth and vines that were climbing up the side of a house or even the trees. I didn't get that at all from E05. Again, I need to go back and see if this is a different garden than I was imagining from the scent. I was imagining something like Une Rose or even Apres l'Ondee. My ideal enchanted gardens are the one from The Secret Garden or from a Midsummer Night's Dream. There is nothing in the description that indicates flower garden, so maybe this is more of a vegetable garden? Again, I need to re-visit the beginning.
    I'm giving him the benefit of the doubt on anything herbal or vegatal, but I see what you're saying. I did think there was a strong vine-like parallel with E02 (Mugler Cologne).

    Quote Originally Posted by Babsvs View Post
    I also did not get any interplay of shadows and light. I really tried to find this. IMO once a note establishes itself, it holds center stage, and there were no other notes creeping in from the shadows. Again, I need to smell this again.
    I did not see any obvious shadows and light, but I do get some color and tactile imagery - soft hues, light colors with cottony-fabric textures. Probably the same as you - I need more sniffs from a different perspective.

    Thanks for your thoughts on this!
    * * * *

  4. #34

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    It seems that as a group, we have opinions about E05 that are both like and unlike. That said, I think that we are all making a serious effort to discuss E05 in an intelligent manner. I am stumbling on the way Romanticism is being defined. First off, Jicky was not released during the Romantic era, it was released during the Victorian Era. The Victorians were fern crazy.

    NOTE: I can't get these images to show up. I have the URLs there. Can anyone fix this?

    Romantic Art

    http://www.abcgallery.com/D/delacroix/delacroix9.html


    Victorian Art

    http://www.abcgallery.com/W/whistler/whistler7.html


    The Romantics absolutely looked over their shoulders. They admired the Romans and Greeks. Keat's house is in Rome, just below the Spanish Steps. The Romantics were concerned about creativiy, self expression, and understanding man and god's place within the universe. They were social activists, fighting against man's inhumanity to man. The Victorian's as a group were more concerned about fitting in and being accepted by society. Howard's End comes to mind.

    To me, if E05 is a Romantic fragrance, it would be have to be very unique, although having predecessors seems like it is quite natural. E05 is unique and not unique at the same time. It is a green/citrus that dries down to a woody base. That's not unusual. I do think that the vegetable (?) used is unusual. There are probably unique uses of the aroma chemicals that I don't understand.

    Question 1 - Is Romanticism intended to mean unique, expressing the self, and religious/mystical?

    Question 2 - Are "unique", "mystical", or "self-relevetory" the romantic qualities others were looking for in E05?

    Part 2

    I'm also stuck as to our nose as a photorealist. We are told the nose is not a post-modernist. Photorealists build images from photographs. This movement arose out of Pop Art, and neither of these two schools of art are big on landscapes. The Romantics of course, worship the earth's beauty and painted landscapes. Photorealists differ from abstract expressionists. The best way I know to describe the romantic ancestry of abstract expressionism is to watch the film Pollock as he lies on the ground observing a tidal pool, and then paints a completely non-objective piece in which you can just feel that tidal pool. Photorealism is a post-modern art form, driving "fine" and "everyday" art closer together and using objective forms to do so.

    Our nose is then referred to as a 21st century romantic. An example of a 21st C romantic that most people have heard of is the poet Allen Ginsberg. His work is deeply personal, spiritual, and filled with the beauty of the natural world.

    Question 1 - If our nose is not a post-modernist, can he be a photorealist?
    Question 3 - Is he a photo realist because he designed the structure of his scent by breaking it down into grids (imaginary or real)?

    I'm sure that in the world of contemporary art, the photorealists like Chuck Close, don't get in on line, while the 21C romanticists like Maxfield Parrish, get on another line. People are individuals, and perhaps artists, like rappers, sample from a variety of different schools of painting.

    Question 4 - Is our E05 nose, like Picasso, someone who changes styles and uses a different syle either simultaneously on the same scent, or simultaneously on different scents made at the same time. I am not talking about a style evolution, like JC Ellena creating Rumba and then creating his contemporary work for Hermes.

    I have to say, I don't personally see this "sampling" in E05, but I am thinking about it in several places. In the first five seconds of the top I got a wood note and then poof, it was gone. I thought it was pretty cool that the composer got what is usually a durable note to be so fleeting. The vegetal note in the top/heart is unique, and perhaps it is a combination of notes. Finally, E05 lasted for about 20 hours on me. At the end the wood turned into a dry wood and I also got a whiff of incense.

    I would really appreciate other peoples' thoughts and opinions.
    Last edited by Babsvs; 12th October 2012 at 02:21 AM.

  5. #35

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    @Babsv, love your contribution, makes so much sense to me, thank you for sharing!

    @Red & @Perfume_addict, how fascinating that you both experience that 'alone' element, thank you for sharing your experiences and thoughts!

    My question to y'all art history experts: if you would really smell E05 blind, without CB's connotations, but rather look at E05 as a piece of art that one would see in an art gallery, what art movement do you think would fit E05 best?
    @SomethingSmelly

  6. #36
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by Babsvs View Post
    NOTE: I can't get these images to show up. I have the URLs there. Can anyone fix this?

    Romantic Art

    http://www.abcgallery.com/D/delacroix/delacroix9.html


    Victorian Art

    http://www.abcgallery.com/W/whistler/whistler7.html

    Just right click on the images themselves to get the URLs. I copied the images to my own online stash in order to preserve the links. If you use PhotoBucket, they even give you the image URL with image tags that work at BN.

    Here are your images and labels repeated:

    Romantic Art



    Victorian Art



    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    @Babsv, love your contribution, makes so much sense to me, thank you for sharing!

    @Red & @Perfume_addict, how fascinating that you both experience that 'alone' element, thank you for sharing your experiences and thoughts!

    My question to y'all art history experts: if you would really smell E05 blind, without CB's connotations, but rather look at E05 as a piece of art that one would see in an art gallery, what art movement do you think would fit E05 best?
    As a non-expert, I will leave this dangerous question to others, so as not to sustain any injuries!
    * * * *

  7. #37

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Thank you for fixing the images!

    I am not an art history expert at all. I have my BAFA in it, and love it, but it is more love than knowledge. I am not sure what school I would but E05 into from an art historical perspective. I do find similarity between JC Ellena and E05. Perfume experts, does anyone else see this or am I completely off course?

  8. #38

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    I have to admit that Romanticism is a pretty fuzzy concept for me. It's characterized by emphasis on emotion, individual imagination and creativity, and the rejection of rationalism. It encompasses Rousseau's philosophy of "a state of nature" characterized by his statement that "nothing is so gentle as man in his primitive state, when placed by nature at an equal distance from the stupidity of brutes and the fatal enlightenment of civil man."

    It seems that Romanticism gave birth to Realism, so I'm not really sure the two are mutually exclusive.

    Based on this, I can see S01E05 fitting into Romanticism in some respects, in the sense that the perfumer interpreted nature through his own vision (imagination) of it, and gave us something idealized. We can recognize what it's supposed to be, but it's not a mirror image. However, with scent, I think you have to be pretty literal if you want people to recognize what your vision is. With abstractions, I'm not sure you'll get more than a "that smells good" or "that smells strange". I think there has to be a certain amount of Realism in a fragrance that refers to a specific object.

    IMO, the Mugler may have been pop art; Infusion d'Iris, Impressionistic; L'Etrog, Abstract; Yuzu Rouge, Realism.

  9. #39
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by Babsvs View Post
    Thank you for fixing the images!

    I am not an art history expert at all. I have my BAFA in it, and love it, but it is more love than knowledge. I am not sure what school I would but E05 into from an art historical perspective. I do find similarity between JC Ellena and E05. Perfume experts, does anyone else see this or am I completely off course?
    Let's just say that I totally agree with you that this scent is in the "Ellena school of transparency", though not necessarily the best example of the style. I think you made an exceptionally good guess, but I will avoid telegraphing who I think actually did this.

    Here is what Burr said, with emphasis added:

    E05 is a work in the literalist style, contemporary figuratism, almost photo realism. The name contains the object that the artist is ostensibly photographing, but like all photo realism this is aesthetic trick. The work is so much more. Its creator obviously knows the plush, gold-leaf-and scarlet-velvet romanticism of Aimé Guerlain’s Jicky (1889) and the 1999 version of Jicky, the brilliant synthetic-curtain post-Romanticist sensuality of Michel Almairac’s Rush. E05 is an ingenious 21st century romanticism that uses the olfactory photo to paint shadows within light, sensual and pungent nature, a realist dark green from an enchanted garden with rich soil and sinuous vines—a garden you retreat to with pleasure—and a beauty that looks you in the eye and smiles.
    So it looks like Burr is calling it literalist, contemporary figuratism, almost realism, with references to Romanticism and post-Romanticism. He then basically calls it - essentially - an example of a kind of neo-romanticism.

    I can see calling Jicky romanticist, just chronologically, but also stylistically. I am taking his word on Rush, because I know so little about modern schools of art, other than what I know about fragrance, minus the labels. And I can see calling E05 literalist and realist. But if one can equate the hazy style of so many impressionist painters with the soft and out-of-focus texture of this fragrance, then I would say that it has some impressionistic elements - and perhaps the same ones that leak into such a large number of contemporary paintings.

    Like I said, when I use art phraseology like that, it's a bit like a toddler with a switchblade. I'm hoping for somebody like a delinquent older sister to at least show me how to use it properly by correction.
    * * * *

  10. #40

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    Like I said, when I use art phraseology like that, it's a bit like a toddler with a switchblade. I'm hoping for somebody like a delinquent older sister to at least show me how to use it properly by correction.
    LOL totally get what you mean, I would love a good teacher too But I think that you, Babsvs and Perfume_Addict are doing a mighty fine job!
    @SomethingSmelly

  11. #41

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    Let's just say that I totally agree with you that this scent is in the "Ellena school of transparency", though not necessarily the best example of the style. I think you made an exceptionally good guess, but I will avoid telegraphing who I think actually did this.

    Here is what Burr said, with emphasis added:


    So it looks like Burr is calling it literalist, contemporary figuratism, almost realism, with references to Romanticism and post-Romanticism. He then basically calls it - essentially - an example of a kind of neo-romanticism.

    I can see calling Jicky romanticist, just chronologically, but also stylistically. I am taking his word on Rush, because I know so little about modern schools of art, other than what I know about fragrance, minus the labels. And I can see calling E05 literalist and realist. But if one can equate the hazy style of so many impressionist painters with the soft and out-of-focus texture of this fragrance, then I would say that it has some impressionistic elements - and perhaps the same ones that leak into such a large number of contemporary paintings.

    Like I said, when I use art phraseology like that, it's a bit like a toddler with a switchblade. I'm hoping for somebody like a delinquent older sister to at least show me how to use it properly by correction.
    I wanted to clarify that JC Ellena is not my guess. He doesn't fit the text as given by Burr. I crossed him off my list because he is the in-house perfumer for Hermes. Burr says that the house in question keeps awarding the nose commissions. To the best of my understanding an in house perfumer does not have to submit briefs, but perhaps I am mistaken.

    I actually do not see Jicky as being of the romantic period, I see it of the Victorian period. The Romantic period went from (extended dates) 1770-1870). The Victorian period formally began in 1837 and ended around 1910, overlapping with La Belle Epoque. The plushness Mr. Burr is describing is more of the Victorian era than the Romantic era. There was a fern frenzy during the Victorian era, and Jicky is a fougere, meaning fern.


    I liked your list of all of the schools of art list you made. Burr calls E05

    Literalist (also called minimalist, jackpot, only one image) - Donald Judd, 1969

    http://www.guggenheim.org/new-york/c...object=91.3713

    Contemporary Figuratism - Jose Manuel Merrello
    http://www.merello.com/Pinturas/pagi..._amarillas.htm

    Photo realism - Chuck Close

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Chuck_Close_2.jpg

    Contemporary Romantic - Anthony A. Gonzalez

    http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...QEwCQ&dur=4213

    I did find a painting that looks exactly how I envision the perfume. The artist, Paul R. Keysar, calls it Traditional Realism. I like the brushwork on the cucumber.

    Paul R. Keysar - Cucumber Slices
    http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...QEwBA&dur=2141


    I want to stress how very subjective I think this is. Just as a note I have on Fleur de Liane and Calamus with C05. They are more to my taste. I find the bitterness in E05 offputting.
    Last edited by Babsvs; 12th October 2012 at 08:39 AM.

  12. #42

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by Babsvs View Post
    I did find a painting that looks exactly how I envision the perfume. The artist, Paul R. Keysar, calls it Traditional Realism. I like the brushwork on the cucumber.

    Paul R. Keysar - Cucumber Slices
    http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...QEwBA&dur=2141
    Very very interesting, Babsvs and really well written and illustrative descriptions of the different movements, thank you, I enjoy your comments hugely!
    @SomethingSmelly

  13. #43

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    You are kind to say so. I love art history so much. When I pass I want my ashes scattered in the art history lecture hall in Popejoy Hall at the U of New Mexico. (kidding)

  14. #44
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    LOL totally get what you mean, I would love a good teacher too But I think that you, Babsvs and Perfume_Addict are doing a mighty fine job!
    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by Babsvs View Post
    I wanted to clarify that JC Ellena is not my guess. He doesn't fit the text as given by Burr. I crossed him off my list because he is the in-house perfumer for Hermes. Burr says that the house in question keeps awarding the nose commissions. To the best of my understanding an in house perfumer does not have to submit briefs, but perhaps I am mistaken.
    Understood, and I agree that this makes it less likely to be him. Despite the fact that he is their in-house perfumer, I would assume that both house and perfumer have clauses which allow them to play the field. I know that in-house perfumers (Wasser, Polge, etc.) frequently take advantage of such options to explore niche perfumery for smaller companies while they are in-house. And there are cases where outside perfumers are sometimes used for certain side-projects - though this isn't as common (and is typically seen at times of uncertainty for the in-house perfumer's continued work at the house). All in all, I think the nose here is still debatable.

    Quote Originally Posted by Babsvs View Post
    I actually do not see Jicky as being of the romantic period, I see it of the Victorian period. The Romantic period went from (extended dates) 1770-1870). The Victorian period formally began in 1837 and ended around 1910, overlapping with La Belle Epoque. The plushness Mr. Burr is describing is more of the Victorian era than the Romantic era. There was a fern frenzy during the Victorian era, and Jicky is a fougere, meaning fern.


    I liked your list of all of the schools of art list you made. Burr calls E05

    Literalist (also called minimalist, jackpot, only one image) - Donald Judd, 1969

    http://www.guggenheim.org/new-york/c...object=91.3713

    Contemporary Figuratism - Jose Manuel Merrello
    http://www.merello.com/Pinturas/pagi..._amarillas.htm

    Photo realism - Chuck Close

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Chuck_Close_2.jpg

    Contemporary Romantic - Anthony A. Gonzalez

    http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...QEwCQ&dur=4213

    I did find a painting that looks exactly how I envision the perfume. The artist, Paul R. Keysar, calls it Traditional Realism. I like the brushwork on the cucumber.

    Paul R. Keysar - Cucumber Slices
    http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...QEwBA&dur=2141
    Very nice! Thanks for these examples!

    Quote Originally Posted by Babsvs View Post
    I want to stress how very subjective I think this is. Just as a note I have on Fleur de Liane and Calamus with C05. They are more to my taste. I find the bitterness in E05 offputting.
    You know, it's funny. This stuff made me pull out Fleur de Liane as well! Another near-buy for me.

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    Very very interesting, Babsvs and really well written and illustrative descriptions of the different movements, thank you, I enjoy your comments hugely!
    Seconded!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Babsvs View Post
    You are kind to say so. I love art history so much. When I pass I want my ashes scattered in the art history lecture hall in Popejoy Hall at the U of New Mexico. (kidding)
    I love this, whether you're kidding or not!!!

    I still dream of the undergraduate chemistry labs where I first smelled uncommon organic chemicals.
    * * * *

  15. #45

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Enjoying reading the responses from those who have received their bottles (I ordered on the 4th, just today received an email stating order was being processed and should arrive in 5-7 days . . . grrrrrrrr), but now I'm worried this is going to be another exercise in watery/green/minimalist/cologne-type sniffing.

  16. #46
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Bitter green and resembles Jicky? That makes me curious, while the allusions to cucumber worry me . . . hopefully no calone.

  17. #47

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by Somerville Metro Man View Post
    Mine is also on its way according to my e-mail and I will attempt to answer these questions once I have a chance to wear it.

    The one thing in the intro which has me intrigued is that Chandler has mentioned he thinks this perfume house's collection is one of the top six or seven in the world.

    If we sort of take as a given that Guerlain and Chanel are probably one and two on his list which might be overextrapolation on my part anyone want to hazard any guesses on which house this could be before we have anything to sniff?

    I would think Frederic Malle would qualify but the price makes me think that isn't it.
    Maybe Annick Goutal and Isabelle Doyen? Or Cartier and Mathilde Laurent? i can see fragrances from both of those fitting his description.
    We haven't been commenting on this question. Does anyone have any ideas?

  18. #48

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Well, I'm out. Just received this email from Open Sky:

    * * *

    We're contacting you to update you on the status of your "The Untitled Series: S01E05". We had hoped to have your order shipped by now but unfortunately we're still experiencing delays with the supplier of this product.

    We continue to work closely with the manufacturer to get your order completed but we estimate that it will take another 7 business days to ship.

    Due to the inconvenience we're adding a $10 credit to your account for your next purchase. We sincerely apologize for this delay and invite you to contact us at 1-877-734-6736 or [email protected] if you have any questions or would like to cancel your order.

    * * *

    Will cancel and won't play again. I ordered back at the beginning of the month, around the 5th, I think. Doesn't look like Burr/Open Sky/Supplier can all get on the same page together. And this in a day and age where Amazon can get me something I order from a supplier half way around the country on a Tuesday by that Thursday with no hassle? Fuggedaboutit.

  19. #49

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    This is my last one too. I don't need any more wispy green scents. I am sorry that you never got your sample. I also don't want to play again because Mr. Burr and our host/moderator don't participate on the boards. When Katie P was moderating she was really active.

  20. #50

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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Haven't read any other people on the thread for a week and I want to use Perfume Addict's questions in as unaffected state as possible so if I am repeating anyone else I'll mention it after I go back and read.

    1. How does S01E05 make you feel? What mood does it create? When would you see yourself wearing it? Do you think others like it on you?

    S01E05 makes me feel content when I have been wearing it. I would wear this as a daytime scent and as a weekend fragrance, it does not feel like something I would choose for a night out or as a romantic accompaniment. My wife likes it on me.

    2. In what way would you describe this fragrance as “less”? Is it minimalist?

    I wouldn't call this minimalist as it never seems to "turn over" on me. what i get from the first moments is what I get from the last moments. E05 feels like a still life like an olfactory moment in time frozen. Because it doesn't develop it does cause me to look at it closely and in that examination I appreciate the layers and nuances that are here. E05 is a green leafy experience but there are also other things to notice. This might be the most obviously "constructed" entry in the Untitled series so far.

    3. In what way is the fragrance “more”? Is it plush, rich, saturated? Is it sexy or sensual, and why? Is it romantic (in the 18th century sense), and why?

    I wouldn't use any of these adjectives to describe E05. E05 is of the earth and it is an olfactory image of green growing things but it never rises to the level of volume that would make me use any of the above words to describe it.

    4. Burr says the fragrance is literal, almost photo realism. Do you experience that characteristic, and if so, what do you think it is about the fragrance that causes this impression?

    This is a snapshot of a green growing plant of some kind it captures not only the green but that weirdly spicy quality I've always found underneath things in nature and so this time "photo realism" does seem an apt choice for me.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Just read through everyone else's responses. If I'm going to apply art criticism here it would have to be photo realism. At its best the artist uses a single point of vision to explore the complexity of something that on its surface should have no depth. Only when you are faced with really looking at it do you see the other things.
    The only photorealist artist i have any knowledge of is Richard Estes and he excelled at doing this with city milieus. His most well-known piece is this one called Telephone Booths



    What I think is so great about this painting is what I find fascinating about E05.

    In Estes' painting it is at first the phone booths then the people in the phone booths I notice but the feature which eventually draws me in to this piece of art and make it fascinating to me is the distorted reflections in the doors of the phone booths. What is that bit of yellow on the right, the building in the middle is clear and the bit of neon sign on the left what is that? That is where my emotions and thoughts go when looking at this.

    E05 did a similar thing for me at first it is the green growing thing that is at the heart of this but then as I mentioned above there is that spicy note of Nature that rarely gets captured in a perfume. I am sure the perfumer used some pepper but the presence of that note is like the blurred images in the phone booths. Makes me ask where I am; garden bench, canoe in the Everglades, hiking trail crossing a field. Whichever image I choose for the moment informs my feeling and sense of E05. E05 like Estes work invites a surface examination but I was willing to spend some time with it to find the reflected distortions in the doors.

    I have to say that E05 definitely is another transparent fragrance very similar to the other four entries and this really is starting to make this experience feel very similar from entry to entry. I am going to press Chandler a little harder on this point at the next reveal because this is not different in feel to the previous four entries. On the other hand we have now had five transparent pieces of olfactory art chosen by our curator. While I can use transparent to describe all of them would I say they are constructed the same or make me feel the same?

    I'm not sure I would ever equate E05 with minimalist if that word is exemplified by Ellena. To me minimalist means a few well chosen notes which create a sense of unexpected interactions. E05 does not do this for me it is a single moment of things growing in the earth.
    More writing on fragrance by me to be found at http://www.cafleurebon.com/

  21. #51

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by Somerville Metro Man View Post
    Haven't read any other people on the thread for a week and I want to use Perfume Addict's questions in as unaffected state as possible so if I am repeating anyone else I'll mention it after I go back and read.

    1. How does S01E05 make you feel? What mood does it create? When would you see yourself wearing it? Do you think others like it on you?

    S01E05 makes me feel content when I have been wearing it. I would wear this as a daytime scent and as a weekend fragrance, it does not feel like something I would choose for a night out or as a romantic accompaniment. My wife likes it on me.

    2. In what way would you describe this fragrance as “less”? Is it minimalist?

    I wouldn't call this minimalist as it never seems to "turn over" on me. what i get from the first moments is what I get from the last moments. E05 feels like a still life like an olfactory moment in time frozen. Because it doesn't develop it does cause me to look at it closely and in that examination I appreciate the layers and nuances that are here. E05 is a green leafy experience but there are also other things to notice. This might be the most obviously "constructed" entry in the Untitled series so far.

    3. In what way is the fragrance “more”? Is it plush, rich, saturated? Is it sexy or sensual, and why? Is it romantic (in the 18th century sense), and why?

    I wouldn't use any of these adjectives to describe E05. E05 is of the earth and it is an olfactory image of green growing things but it never rises to the level of volume that would make me use any of the above words to describe it.

    4. Burr says the fragrance is literal, almost photo realism. Do you experience that characteristic, and if so, what do you think it is about the fragrance that causes this impression?

    This is a snapshot of a green growing plant of some kind it captures not only the green but that weirdly spicy quality I've always found underneath things in nature and so this time "photo realism" does seem an apt choice for me.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Just read through everyone else's responses. If I'm going to apply art criticism here it would have to be photo realism. At its best the artist uses a single point of vision to explore the complexity of something that on its surface should have no depth. Only when you are faced with really looking at it do you see the other things.
    The only photorealist artist i have any knowledge of is Richard Estes and he excelled at doing this with city milieus. His most well-known piece is this one called Telephone Booths



    What I think is so great about this painting is what I find fascinating about E05.

    In Estes' painting it is at first the phone booths then the people in the phone booths I notice but the feature which eventually draws me in to this piece of art and make it fascinating to me is the distorted reflections in the doors of the phone booths. What is that bit of yellow on the right, the building in the middle is clear and the bit of neon sign on the left what is that? That is where my emotions and thoughts go when looking at this.

    E05 did a similar thing for me at first it is the green growing thing that is at the heart of this but then as I mentioned above there is that spicy note of Nature that rarely gets captured in a perfume. I am sure the perfumer used some pepper but the presence of that note is like the blurred images in the phone booths. Makes me ask where I am; garden bench, canoe in the Everglades, hiking trail crossing a field. Whichever image I choose for the moment informs my feeling and sense of E05. E05 like Estes work invites a surface examination but I was willing to spend some time with it to find the reflected distortions in the doors.

    I have to say that E05 definitely is another transparent fragrance very similar to the other four entries and this really is starting to make this experience feel very similar from entry to entry. I am going to press Chandler a little harder on this point at the next reveal because this is not different in feel to the previous four entries. On the other hand we have now had five transparent pieces of olfactory art chosen by our curator. While I can use transparent to describe all of them would I say they are constructed the same or make me feel the same?

    I'm not sure I would ever equate E05 with minimalist if that word is exemplified by Ellena. To me minimalist means a few well chosen notes which create a sense of unexpected interactions. E05 does not do this for me it is a single moment of things growing in the earth.
    Nice. This certainly makes me want to sniff it now, which is good, because I don't have a choice. Although the email to me clearly states I have the option to cancel my order, when I did, I received a curt, "sorry, no can do, your order has already been processed" reply. Hasn't been shipped, mind you, just "processed." Maybe I'll get it by the second coming?

    Your description is intriguing. Like Babsvs, I need another "wispy green" like I need a hole in my head, but this sounds like something just a tad richer.

  22. #52
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    I sent out some samples last Monday. I'm hoping that we'll be getting a new round of comments very soon. Stay tuned!

    Quote Originally Posted by Babsvs View Post
    We haven't been commenting on this question. Does anyone have any ideas?
    Actually, I'm afraid to comment because I think I know the scent. But I encourage others to do so.

    Quote Originally Posted by Babsvs View Post
    This is my last one too. I don't need any more wispy green scents. I am sorry that you never got your sample. I also don't want to play again because Mr. Burr and our host/moderator don't participate on the boards. When Katie P was moderating she was really active.
    I have to say, the wispy green and citrus scents are piling up rather quickly!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Somerville Metro Man View Post
    Haven't read any other people on the thread for a week and I want to use Perfume Addict's questions in as unaffected state as possible so if I am repeating anyone else I'll mention it after I go back and read.

    1. How does S01E05 make you feel? What mood does it create? When would you see yourself wearing it? Do you think others like it on you?

    S01E05 makes me feel content when I have been wearing it. I would wear this as a daytime scent and as a weekend fragrance, it does not feel like something I would choose for a night out or as a romantic accompaniment. My wife likes it on me.

    2. In what way would you describe this fragrance as “less”? Is it minimalist?

    I wouldn't call this minimalist as it never seems to "turn over" on me. what i get from the first moments is what I get from the last moments. E05 feels like a still life like an olfactory moment in time frozen. Because it doesn't develop it does cause me to look at it closely and in that examination I appreciate the layers and nuances that are here. E05 is a green leafy experience but there are also other things to notice. This might be the most obviously "constructed" entry in the Untitled series so far.

    3. In what way is the fragrance “more”? Is it plush, rich, saturated? Is it sexy or sensual, and why? Is it romantic (in the 18th century sense), and why?

    I wouldn't use any of these adjectives to describe E05. E05 is of the earth and it is an olfactory image of green growing things but it never rises to the level of volume that would make me use any of the above words to describe it.

    4. Burr says the fragrance is literal, almost photo realism. Do you experience that characteristic, and if so, what do you think it is about the fragrance that causes this impression?

    This is a snapshot of a green growing plant of some kind it captures not only the green but that weirdly spicy quality I've always found underneath things in nature and so this time "photo realism" does seem an apt choice for me.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Just read through everyone else's responses. If I'm going to apply art criticism here it would have to be photo realism. At its best the artist uses a single point of vision to explore the complexity of something that on its surface should have no depth. Only when you are faced with really looking at it do you see the other things.
    The only photorealist artist i have any knowledge of is Richard Estes and he excelled at doing this with city milieus. His most well-known piece is this one called Telephone Booths



    What I think is so great about this painting is what I find fascinating about E05.

    In Estes' painting it is at first the phone booths then the people in the phone booths I notice but the feature which eventually draws me in to this piece of art and make it fascinating to me is the distorted reflections in the doors of the phone booths. What is that bit of yellow on the right, the building in the middle is clear and the bit of neon sign on the left what is that? That is where my emotions and thoughts go when looking at this.

    E05 did a similar thing for me at first it is the green growing thing that is at the heart of this but then as I mentioned above there is that spicy note of Nature that rarely gets captured in a perfume. I am sure the perfumer used some pepper but the presence of that note is like the blurred images in the phone booths. Makes me ask where I am; garden bench, canoe in the Everglades, hiking trail crossing a field. Whichever image I choose for the moment informs my feeling and sense of E05. E05 like Estes work invites a surface examination but I was willing to spend some time with it to find the reflected distortions in the doors.

    I have to say that E05 definitely is another transparent fragrance very similar to the other four entries and this really is starting to make this experience feel very similar from entry to entry. I am going to press Chandler a little harder on this point at the next reveal because this is not different in feel to the previous four entries. On the other hand we have now had five transparent pieces of olfactory art chosen by our curator. While I can use transparent to describe all of them would I say they are constructed the same or make me feel the same?

    I'm not sure I would ever equate E05 with minimalist if that word is exemplified by Ellena. To me minimalist means a few well chosen notes which create a sense of unexpected interactions. E05 does not do this for me it is a single moment of things growing in the earth.
    Nice impressions!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by PerfumePorMoi View Post
    Nice. This certainly makes me want to sniff it now, which is good, because I don't have a choice. Although the email to me clearly states I have the option to cancel my order, when I did, I received a curt, "sorry, no can do, your order has already been processed" reply. Hasn't been shipped, mind you, just "processed." Maybe I'll get it by the second coming?

    Your description is intriguing. Like Babsvs, I need another "wispy green" like I need a hole in my head, but this sounds like something just a tad richer.
    This is an enjoyable scent. Even though all of these first five choices seem to show some sort of odd similarity, they are still fairly diverse within their bounding box.
    * * * *

  23. #53
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Hi everyone! ROtto brought his full bottle of EO5 to our San Francisco sniff yesterday, so we sprayed it on paper and all passed it around our lunch table. The consistent imagery that everyone agreed on was "surgery". One of our sniffers said it reminded her of that blast of chemical smell you get as you're being anesthetized. Pretty much everyone was describing cold white surgery rooms and the way that a room devoid of scented products can still smell so strongly of chemicals.

    Anyway, I thought that was interesting because it's so completely the opposite of what the discussion here has agreed on.

    So, I'm wearing it today and I'll play by the BN rules:

    1. How does S01E05 make you feel? What mood does it create? When would you see yourself wearing it? Do you think others like it on you?

    In a way that's hard to describe without getting into the minutia of notes and such, I find EO5 to be natural but gross. As such, it doesn't evoke comfort or feel like anything I can imagine anyone enjoying smelling on me, though I find it creative and interesting. I'd wear it when I wanted something a little challenging, likely when I had plans to be alone.

    2. In what way would you describe this fragrance as “less”? Is it minimalist?

    I suppose it's minimalist in the sense that it doesn't have as much going on as, say, a classic aldehydic floral would - There's a lot happening, but it's all focused in one direction, little nuances are there but they all point towards green vegetation and its gross undercurrents.

    3. In what way is the fragrance “more”? Is it plush, rich, saturated? Is it sexy or sensual, and why? Is it romantic (in the 18th century sense), and why?

    No to sexy or sensual, no to saturated. No to romantic in the "love" sense.

    I do find it plush, but not in a velvet romantic way. Have you guys seen the documentary Grey Gardens? The one about the two formerly aristocratic ladies who live in a dilapidated mansion that's completely overgrown with ivy? This makes me think of that house. Sort of beautiful but with nature overgrowing everything so it's gotten a bit wild and nasty. There's a plushness to out-of-control vines - lots of dark crevices and shadows giving unseen depth and a sense of danger.

    4. Burr says the fragrance is literal, almost photo realism. Do you experience that characteristic, and if so, what do you think it is about the fragrance that causes this impression?

    For me, it's those vines. But it's not literal to me.

    To tie this all together, I think his reference to Jicky is interesting, because Jicky smells kind of beautiful but it has that utterly terrifying poop underneath. And it's not beautiful despite the poop - instead, it's beautiful once you learn to embrace the poop. Maybe that's the romanticism that Chandler is referencing.

    As much as I want to avoid simple "note" discussions, I have to bring up that this is a tomato leaf fragrance. I've talked tomato leaf a million times - I find it fascinating that it smells so wonderful but also has a horrifying bile undertone. It's especially funny because, when you smell tomato leaves on an actual tomato plant, the bile smell is barely there. There's something about distilling it into a perfume that brings out the ugliness, and I think there's a wonderful metaphor there that ties in with Jicky. If you have to embrace the poop to see Jicky's beauty, you have to embrace the disgusting undertones to see EO5's beauty.

    In terms of the composition (Chandler, you can look away now...), there was a sort of metallic celery note in the beginning, with maybe a pinch of dill, leading to that bell pepper/cilantro smell that reminded me of Piment Brulant. Then, the tomato leaf came forward and became the focus, but all the other facets (maybe some black pepper and mint for brightness as well, along with a deep rubbing alcohol smell underneath) are all like little soldiers marching alongside the tomato leaf, either brightening it or adding depth but always in formation and headed in the same direction - All ingredients lead to ivy!

    In terms of imagery, I'm think about those pictures of barns down south that are overgrown with kudzu vines:



    Notice how that dark space between the leaves and the vines is every bit as important as as the green of the vines themselves? If you can imagine an image like this painted with a bit of an impressionist haze, where the leaves are less specific and the dark shadows are played up, that's what EO5 makes me think of.
    Has everyone checked out my Top 100 Blog??
    Currently wearing: Everest by Avon

  24. #54

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by Somerville Metro Man View Post
    Haven't read any other people on the thread for a week and I want to use Perfume Addict's questions in as unaffected state as possible so if I am repeating anyone else I'll mention it after I go back and read.

    1. How does S01E05 make you feel? What mood does it create? When would you see yourself wearing it? Do you think others like it on you?

    S01E05 makes me feel content when I have been wearing it. I would wear this as a daytime scent and as a weekend fragrance, it does not feel like something I would choose for a night out or as a romantic accompaniment. My wife likes it on me.

    2. In what way would you describe this fragrance as “less”? Is it minimalist?

    I wouldn't call this minimalist as it never seems to "turn over" on me. what i get from the first moments is what I get from the last moments. E05 feels like a still life like an olfactory moment in time frozen. Because it doesn't develop it does cause me to look at it closely and in that examination I appreciate the layers and nuances that are here. E05 is a green leafy experience but there are also other things to notice. This might be the most obviously "constructed" entry in the Untitled series so far.

    3. In what way is the fragrance “more”? Is it plush, rich, saturated? Is it sexy or sensual, and why? Is it romantic (in the 18th century sense), and why?

    I wouldn't use any of these adjectives to describe E05. E05 is of the earth and it is an olfactory image of green growing things but it never rises to the level of volume that would make me use any of the above words to describe it.

    4. Burr says the fragrance is literal, almost photo realism. Do you experience that characteristic, and if so, what do you think it is about the fragrance that causes this impression?

    This is a snapshot of a green growing plant of some kind it captures not only the green but that weirdly spicy quality I've always found underneath things in nature and so this time "photo realism" does seem an apt choice for me.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Just read through everyone else's responses. If I'm going to apply art criticism here it would have to be photo realism. At its best the artist uses a single point of vision to explore the complexity of something that on its surface should have no depth. Only when you are faced with really looking at it do you see the other things.
    The only photorealist artist i have any knowledge of is Richard Estes and he excelled at doing this with city milieus. His most well-known piece is this one called Telephone Booths



    What I think is so great about this painting is what I find fascinating about E05.

    In Estes' painting it is at first the phone booths then the people in the phone booths I notice but the feature which eventually draws me in to this piece of art and make it fascinating to me is the distorted reflections in the doors of the phone booths. What is that bit of yellow on the right, the building in the middle is clear and the bit of neon sign on the left what is that? That is where my emotions and thoughts go when looking at this.

    E05 did a similar thing for me at first it is the green growing thing that is at the heart of this but then as I mentioned above there is that spicy note of Nature that rarely gets captured in a perfume. I am sure the perfumer used some pepper but the presence of that note is like the blurred images in the phone booths. Makes me ask where I am; garden bench, canoe in the Everglades, hiking trail crossing a field. Whichever image I choose for the moment informs my feeling and sense of E05. E05 like Estes work invites a surface examination but I was willing to spend some time with it to find the reflected distortions in the doors.

    I have to say that E05 definitely is another transparent fragrance very similar to the other four entries and this really is starting to make this experience feel very similar from entry to entry. I am going to press Chandler a little harder on this point at the next reveal because this is not different in feel to the previous four entries. On the other hand we have now had five transparent pieces of olfactory art chosen by our curator. While I can use transparent to describe all of them would I say they are constructed the same or make me feel the same?

    I'm not sure I would ever equate E05 with minimalist if that word is exemplified by Ellena. To me minimalist means a few well chosen notes which create a sense of unexpected interactions. E05 does not do this for me it is a single moment of things growing in the earth.
    Thank you for introducing this wonderful artist. I have not seen his work before, and I like Telephone Booths very much. Your description of it immediately made me think of the layered detail of the 15th century painter, Jan van Eyck. Here is his Virgin of Chancellor Rolin

    http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi...n_Eyck_070.jpg

    If you roll on the boxes marked on the painting you see van Eyck's wonderful detail.

    Like you, I am very taken with the attention to detail in Telephone Booths and in the Van Eyck. I am not sure that I noticed that amount of detail in E05. I am anosmic to some musks, so it could be me. I did see it as a minimal scent with a green top, a green/floral middle and a woody bottom. That is another point where we diverge. I smelled a very clear classical progression in E05. I think you were saying that you found it linear (what you smelled on top is what you smelled on bottom). I was not getting a wide variety of notes at the top, middle and bottom. IMO, E05 is in the minimalist Ellena/Buxton/Duchafour style.

    It is interesting and educational to trade ideas, and once again, I really liked Telephone Booths.
    Last edited by Babsvs; 22nd October 2012 at 12:32 AM.

  25. #55
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by Babsvs View Post
    I did see it as a minimal scent with a green top, a green/floral middle and a woody bottom. That is another point where we diverge. I smelled a very clear classical progression in E05. I think you were saying that you found it linear (what you smelled on top is what you smelled on bottom).
    I agree with you on this. It's later in the day and EO5 has changed a bit. The vines were slowly joined by some green lilies and then overtaken by a mix of neroli and vetiver. I wouldn't be surprised if EO5 is technically a chypre, actually.

    But I still think it always points towards green. Unrelentingly. In a way, that's where the phone booth analogy loses me. The whole point of that is the layers, the way you see the booths themselves, the people in them, and the reflections. It's like you're looking in one direction but seeing multiple directions all at once. Whereas EO5 is just green, sometimes dark and scary, other times more bright or sweet, but always green.

    The Jan van Eyck is another interesting image, but again, there's so much going on there, including a full and detailed landscape out the window and a bunch of still lives and classic portraiture and that incredibly detailed crown and even more stuff that's all rendered in lurid detail if you look close enough. EO5 doesn't feel like it has that. There's no painstakingly detailed garden outside the window. There's no basket of fruit off to the side. It's just variations on green as a theme and it isn't in the least bit baroque.
    Has everyone checked out my Top 100 Blog??
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  26. #56
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    I ordered my bottle last week and it's still not here! I am running out of time to skin test this and post my impressions...
    "Realize deeply that the present moment is all you will ever have."

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  27. #57

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by Babsvs View Post
    Thank you for introducing this wonderful artist. I have not seen his work before, and I like Telephone Booths very much. Your description of it immediately made me think of the layered detail of the 15th century painter, Jan van Eyck. Here is his Virgin of Chancellor Rolin

    http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi...n_Eyck_070.jpg

    If you roll on the boxes marked on the painting you see van Eyck's wonderful detail.

    Like you, I am very taken with the attention to detail in Telephone Booths and in the Van Eyck. I am not sure that I noticed that amount of detail in E05. I am anosmic to some musks, so it could be me. I did see it as a minimal scent with a green top, a green/floral middle and a woody bottom. That is another point where we diverge. I smelled a very clear classical progression in E05. I think you were saying that you found it linear (what you smelled on top is what you smelled on bottom). I was not getting a wide variety of notes at the top, middle and bottom. IMO, E05 is in the minimalist Ellena/Buxton/Duchafour style.

    It is interesting and educational to trade ideas, and once again, I really liked Telephone Booths.
    Maybe its the power of suggestion, but when I wore S01E05 to bed last night, I was overwhelmed by an unpleasant musk note, one I hadn't noticed in my previous wearings. I really have to remember to do this more often - there's something about the perception of scents by my semi-conscious or unconscious mind (upon dozing off or waking) that makes me more aware of discordant notes. I'm sad to say this almost spoiled S01E05 for me.

    As for comments to the effect that all five Untitled Series scents have been transparent, I think that's an inadequate way to classify scents and I have to disagree. No personal attack intended against anyone in particular. Despite being a citrus, L'Etrog is anything but transparent. And transparent wouldn't be the first description that I'd apply to Mugler Cologne. And while I compared S01E05 to a large body of water, I don't think its especially transparent. Would I consider Infusion d'Iris and Yuzu Rouge transparent, yes, although that might lead to the suggestion that they're somehow similar to one another, or fill the same niche in a fragrance wardrobe, and I don't think that's the case. I think maybe the criticism is aimed at something else (I think it is a criticism of the range of scents included in the series.) There seems to be a feeling that some favorite potent scent is missing (where's the patchouli? the vanilla? the oudh?) Am I wrong? What is the opposite of transparent, and what should we be seeing more of in these selections?

  28. #58
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by Perfume_Addict View Post
    Maybe its the power of suggestion, but when I wore S01E05 to bed last night, I was overwhelmed by an unpleasant musk note, one I hadn't noticed in my previous wearings. I really have to remember to do this more often - there's something about the perception of scents by my semi-conscious or unconscious mind (upon dozing off or waking) that makes me more aware of discordant notes. I'm sad to say this almost spoiled S01E05 for me.

    As for comments to the effect that all five Untitled Series scents have been transparent, I think that's an inadequate way to classify scents and I have to disagree. No personal attack intended against anyone in particular. Despite being a citrus, L'Etrog is anything but transparent. And transparent wouldn't be the first description that I'd apply to Mugler Cologne. And while I compared S01E05 to a large body of water, I don't think its especially transparent. Would I consider Infusion d'Iris and Yuzu Rouge transparent, yes, although that might lead to the suggestion that they're somehow similar to one another, or fill the same niche in a fragrance wardrobe, and I don't think that's the case. I think maybe the criticism is aimed at something else (I think it is a criticism of the range of scents included in the series.) There seems to be a feeling that some favorite potent scent is missing (where's the patchouli? the vanilla? the oudh?) Am I wrong? What is the opposite of transparent, and what should we be seeing more of in these selections?
    I think you're right that they're not all transparent. I *personally* don't smell them all as transparent by any means.

    1: Prada Infusion d'Iris - somewhat transparent (Chandler said luminous - maybe soft white & yellow - translucent?)

    2: Mugler Cologne - well, colognes are all somewhat transparent, so maybe, but not totally. Sorta see-through.

    3: L'Etrog - citrus - well - kinda transparent to MY nose (all light to me - never dark or opaque - unlike others)

    4: Yuzu Rouge - citrus - I think definitely transparent to me

    5: S01E05 - to me, white like latex paint or dust. Maybe not transparent but just barely opaque white.

    So transparent isn't really the right word, but they're all light in some way. Whether it's clear, transparent, translucent, or white, they're all, what I might call, pale.

    There is a real similarity to all these scents. They may be very good breads, but they're all some kind of white bread. A couple of them feel like the Japanese sandwiches with the crust carefully removed. Only the amazing ham and cheese and Japanese mayo saves those damn things. When I'm done with them, my American and European heritages are so crust-craving, we want to eat the nearest brown paper. That's how this selection leaves me. I feel like I want to hose down with Carven Homme or an A*Men flanker. Is that Baroque? Whatever! I'm hungry for REAL OLFACTORY FOOD. Heck - even an Aqua Slider.

    I don't feel like I'm gettin' my red meat, carrots, gravy, and brownies. Maybe we need some nice, sharp, chypre cheese. If we have to go L'Arquiste, then a good crusty spiced bread like Anima Dulcis is what I'm cravin'. Not lemonade like L'Etrog!

    Sorry - I've got some crusty 3-cheese bread that needs prevention of staleness. Gotta run!
    * * * *

  29. #59

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by rogalal View Post
    I agree with you on this. It's later in the day and EO5 has changed a bit. The vines were slowly joined by some green lilies and then overtaken by a mix of neroli and vetiver. I wouldn't be surprised if EO5 is technically a chypre, actually.

    But I still think it always points towards green. Unrelentingly. In a way, that's where the phone booth analogy loses me. The whole point of that is the layers, the way you see the booths themselves, the people in them, and the reflections. It's like you're looking in one direction but seeing multiple directions all at once. Whereas EO5 is just green, sometimes dark and scary, other times more bright or sweet, but always green.

    The Jan van Eyck is another interesting image, but again, there's so much going on there, including a full and detailed landscape out the window and a bunch of still lives and classic portraiture and that incredibly detailed crown and even more stuff that's all rendered in lurid detail if you look close enough. EO5 doesn't feel like it has that. There's no painstakingly detailed garden outside the window. There's no basket of fruit off to the side. It's just variations on green as a theme and it isn't in the least bit baroque.
    Agree completely. I don't see E05 as detailed at all, as noted in my original post. I was responding to Telephone Booths which was new to me. I was quite taken with it and wanted to show a Northern Renaissance painting that also showed a great deal of detail. I thought it was interesting to look at two artists from such different time periods sort of dealing with a similar issue, but in different ways. Art historians are trained with slide comparisons, and it is ingrained in me. It was probably foolish of me to go off on a tangent about Telephone Booths. I just really liked it.

    I see E05 as a green scent with three stages. I don't see any of the stages as having a wide variety of notes. In one of my earlier posts I compared it to Jubilation XXV, with XXV as sort of an opposite. To my nose, XXV is very detailed, with different notes flying in like little light rays from different directions. When I smell S05, I find it more minimal. In an earlier post, I compared it to this lovely still life:

    Paul R. Keysar - Cucumber Slices
    http://www.paulkeysar.com/Cucumber-Slices-Painting.php

    I don't get anything menacing, but I am almost positive there are notes I just don't smell. I don't get anything remotely skanky in Jicky.
    Last edited by Babsvs; 23rd October 2012 at 05:08 AM.

  30. #60

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    I think you're right that they're not all transparent. I *personally* don't smell them all as transparent by any means.

    1: Prada Infusion d'Iris - somewhat transparent (Chandler said luminous - maybe soft white & yellow - translucent?)

    2: Mugler Cologne - well, colognes are all somewhat transparent, so maybe, but not totally. Sorta see-through.

    3: L'Etrog - citrus - well - kinda transparent to MY nose (all light to me - never dark or opaque - unlike others)

    4: Yuzu Rouge - citrus - I think definitely transparent to me

    5: S01E05 - to me, white like latex paint or dust. Maybe not transparent but just barely opaque white.

    So transparent isn't really the right word, but they're all light in some way. Whether it's clear, transparent, translucent, or white, they're all, what I might call, pale.

    There is a real similarity to all these scents. They may be very good breads, but they're all some kind of white bread. A couple of them feel like the Japanese sandwiches with the crust carefully removed. Only the amazing ham and cheese and Japanese mayo saves those damn things. When I'm done with them, my American and European heritages are so crust-craving, we want to eat the nearest brown paper. That's how this selection leaves me. I feel like I want to hose down with Carven Homme or an A*Men flanker. Is that Baroque? Whatever! I'm hungry for REAL OLFACTORY FOOD. Heck - even an Aqua Slider.

    I don't feel like I'm gettin' my red meat, carrots, gravy, and brownies. Maybe we need some nice, sharp, chypre cheese. If we have to go L'Arquiste, then a good crusty spiced bread like Anima Dulcis is what I'm cravin'. Not lemonade like L'Etrog!

    Sorry - I've got some crusty 3-cheese bread that needs prevention of staleness. Gotta run!
    I think what we could say about the Untitleds is that they have all been crafted with a light hand -- i.e. there is a common characteristic of balance and an absence of the kind of overdose that characterizes Chanel No. 5, for example. That seems to be the aesthetic Chandler Burr is bringing to the series so far. On the other hand, I've always had a penchant for the complexity of the feminine fragrances of the 70's and 80's (think Armani by Giorgio Armani, Y by YSL, Coco by Chanel) not just Chypres, but fragrances with long lists of "notes", definitely Baroque. But it can be interesting to switch things up and try something new and different as well. I like having a spirit-guide, so to speak.

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