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  1. #61
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Just got my box ((tearing it open))
    "When you become comfortable with uncertainty. infinite possibilities open up in your life"

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  2. #62

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by rogalal View Post
    Hi everyone! ROtto brought his full bottle of EO5 to our San Francisco sniff yesterday, so we sprayed it on paper and all passed it around our lunch table. The consistent imagery that everyone agreed on was "surgery". One of our sniffers said it reminded her of that blast of chemical smell you get as you're being anesthetized. Pretty much everyone was describing cold white surgery rooms and the way that a room devoid of scented products can still smell so strongly of chemicals.

    Anyway, I thought that was interesting because it's so completely the opposite of what the discussion here has agreed on.

    So, I'm wearing it today and I'll play by the BN rules:

    1. How does S01E05 make you feel? What mood does it create? When would you see yourself wearing it? Do you think others like it on you?

    In a way that's hard to describe without getting into the minutia of notes and such, I find EO5 to be natural but gross. As such, it doesn't evoke comfort or feel like anything I can imagine anyone enjoying smelling on me, though I find it creative and interesting. I'd wear it when I wanted something a little challenging, likely when I had plans to be alone.

    2. In what way would you describe this fragrance as “less”? Is it minimalist?

    I suppose it's minimalist in the sense that it doesn't have as much going on as, say, a classic aldehydic floral would - There's a lot happening, but it's all focused in one direction, little nuances are there but they all point towards green vegetation and its gross undercurrents.

    3. In what way is the fragrance “more”? Is it plush, rich, saturated? Is it sexy or sensual, and why? Is it romantic (in the 18th century sense), and why?

    No to sexy or sensual, no to saturated. No to romantic in the "love" sense.

    I do find it plush, but not in a velvet romantic way. Have you guys seen the documentary Grey Gardens? The one about the two formerly aristocratic ladies who live in a dilapidated mansion that's completely overgrown with ivy? This makes me think of that house. Sort of beautiful but with nature overgrowing everything so it's gotten a bit wild and nasty. There's a plushness to out-of-control vines - lots of dark crevices and shadows giving unseen depth and a sense of danger.

    4. Burr says the fragrance is literal, almost photo realism. Do you experience that characteristic, and if so, what do you think it is about the fragrance that causes this impression?

    For me, it's those vines. But it's not literal to me.

    To tie this all together, I think his reference to Jicky is interesting, because Jicky smells kind of beautiful but it has that utterly terrifying poop underneath. And it's not beautiful despite the poop - instead, it's beautiful once you learn to embrace the poop. Maybe that's the romanticism that Chandler is referencing.

    As much as I want to avoid simple "note" discussions, I have to bring up that this is a tomato leaf fragrance. I've talked tomato leaf a million times - I find it fascinating that it smells so wonderful but also has a horrifying bile undertone. It's especially funny because, when you smell tomato leaves on an actual tomato plant, the bile smell is barely there. There's something about distilling it into a perfume that brings out the ugliness, and I think there's a wonderful metaphor there that ties in with Jicky. If you have to embrace the poop to see Jicky's beauty, you have to embrace the disgusting undertones to see EO5's beauty.

    In terms of the composition (Chandler, you can look away now...), there was a sort of metallic celery note in the beginning, with maybe a pinch of dill, leading to that bell pepper/cilantro smell that reminded me of Piment Brulant. Then, the tomato leaf came forward and became the focus, but all the other facets (maybe some black pepper and mint for brightness as well, along with a deep rubbing alcohol smell underneath) are all like little soldiers marching alongside the tomato leaf, either brightening it or adding depth but always in formation and headed in the same direction - All ingredients lead to ivy!

    In terms of imagery, I'm think about those pictures of barns down south that are overgrown with kudzu vines:



    Notice how that dark space between the leaves and the vines is every bit as important as as the green of the vines themselves? If you can imagine an image like this painted with a bit of an impressionist haze, where the leaves are less specific and the dark shadows are played up, that's what EO5 makes me think of.
    This is beginning to not sound like my kind of thing at all (at least to wear), but your "you have to embrace the poop to appreciate Jicky's beauty" is brilliant and will have me giggling all day whenever I think of it. Spot. On.

  3. #63

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Did anyone get a creamy floral about four hours into E05? This is a feminine floral with a really pretty creaminess.

    TIA

    EDIT

    IGNORE PLEASE - accidently mingled two fumes on the same spot.
    Last edited by Babsvs; 25th October 2012 at 06:34 AM.

  4. #64

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    <<Notice how that dark space between the leaves and the vines is every bit as important as as the green of the vines themselves?>> Great aim.

  5. #65
    Dependent L'Homme Blanc Individuel's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    On first sniff I am forced to close my eyes, not because the scent is strong, but rather because it is so soft and gentle that I want to focus all of my attention on it.

    An hour later, with eyes closed, my mind wanders and I find myself in a grassy field. It's a perfect spring day, and I am on my back, lying on a dry patch of otherwise damp grass. There are dandelions everywhere, and the sun is shining. And then something strange happens. Am I... smelling... lunch?

    Do I smell a fast-food burger wrapper? The yellowness of this scent reminds me of being a kid and getting a McDonalds burger, wrapped in yellow paper with their logo all over it. Is it a hint of mustard that I'm smelling?!? A hint of mustard and pickles? Onion? I can't believe I'm having that thought, but now I can't stop from thinking about it. I'm definitely smelling something foodie in here, somewhere.

    This smells more feminine than masculine, yet something keeps it from truly being feminine. I smell the grass and the dampness, yet it has a sunny disposition and I smell flowers... but there's something else too. Something. But what?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Boy do I get excellent longevity from E05. 14 hours later, it was still there, which really surprised me since it was soft from the start. I am so impressed by the contrast of the gentle nature of this scent and the outstanding longevity. I would have never expected that.
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  6. #66
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by L'Homme Blanc Individuel View Post
    A hint of mustard and pickles? Onion? I can't believe I'm having that thought, but now I can't stop from thinking about it.
    I wore EO5 again today with this in mind. I think the pickle association is probably coming from the dill. And today I swear I smell a touch of fennel, which is combining with the bile undertones of the tomato leaf to smell an awful lot like onion breath.

    This actually gave me a lot to think about. On a larger scale, I've always seen perfume as both art and craft. Art in the sense that it's interpretable and craft in the sense that there's a right way and a wrong way to do it. In my mind, one of the principle points of perfumery is to create something that smells good, at least to someone. And when I've smelled scents like EO5 in the past, I've usually considered them failures because they have parts that smell bad. As an example, I remember writing scathing things about Varvatos Artisan because it had this same bile tomato undercurrent mixing with fennel (though it also had a very subtle fecal quality that made the dark undertones smell to me like flu diarrhea *shudder* ).

    I can honestly say that it had never even occurred to me until today that a perfumer would knowingly include disgusting undertones like these in their perfumes,intentionally and on purpose. I had always considered them a failure on the perfumer's part, not adequately masking the gross bits.

    It seems like Chandler may be saying that it's the intentional balance between the tasty bits and the gross bits (symbolizing dark vs light) that he finds compelling and artful about EO5 (using Jicky as an acceptable root for the idea). And I find that fascinating. Somehow, I've accepted civet and castoreum and other bad smells as artful, but modern "niche" gross smells like the onions here or the pee in Guerlain's Pamplelune I've never even considered in the same light.
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  7. #67
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Just got my sample today ( thanks again Red ! ) and am only about a half-hour into it. I've made a point NOT to read what others have said up till now, so only an initial impression here...

    And after four stout sprays on the back of my hand, my initial impression is......Yet another Chandler-style lightweight, skin-scent sort of fragrances.

    I'm enjoying the project, and hope to stick with it, and will be wearing this again over the coming days and forming more impressions. I know Chandler would not have picked it if it didn't have something worthy to say. But I'll have to admit that my initial thought was...Am I simply going to have to accept the fact that all of his selections are going to fall within this particular style of fragrance ?

    If Chandler hopes to serve the perfume consumer, and the wide world of scent with what I believe he intends as an educational project, it would seem important to make selections that cover the full range of available perfume strengths and styles.

    Like....Something for us red wine drinking meat-eaters. Those who enjoy a good bowl of hot chili, you know ?

    Not that I'm grumbling....but....well....maybe just a little.

    .
    Last edited by Birdboy48; 27th October 2012 at 03:23 AM.

  8. #68
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Before it's too late, I wanted to leave my thought about the identity of S01E05:

    70ec2dfefaa54e85cb38105b72a9584e0b15e605e6547d40c9 1cbee1812b1330

    It's not identical to my sample, but the differences are comparable to what I observed with S01E01. Nothing else was ever a serious contender for S01E05, as far as things I've sniffed.

    L'HBI - your observations about both specific condiments and longevity are, in fact, two of the first things I noticed about the scent I think this is.
    * * * *

  9. #69
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Red, for the life of me, I don't have any idea how to decode your guesses...

    If we're doing this, my initial guess was XXXXXXXXXX, but it turned out to be wrong. XXXXXXXXX has more citrus up top for brightness and balance and instead of grossing up the dark spaces between the vines with onion, it fills themin with wisps of cassis smoke. Much like how Yuzu Rouge gave me a better appreciation for Green Green Green and Green, EO5 has made me appreciate XXXXXXXXXX more.

    The talk at our SF Sniff was that people thought it was .- -- .- --.. .. -. --. .-. . . -. which I haven't smelled. Our Barneys didn't have it, so I have no idea, though the reviews of said guess sound nothing like what we're smelling here, so I'm figuring that's probably wrong too.
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  10. #70
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by rogalal View Post
    Red, for the life of me, I don't have any idea how to decode your guesses...
    Actually, it should be next to impossible. If it's not, your money in the bank is in deep civet, castoreum, and other "poopy notes".



    Quote Originally Posted by rogalal View Post
    If we're doing this, my initial guess was XXXXXXXXXX, but it turned out to be wrong. XXXXXXXXX has more citrus up top for brightness and balance and instead of grossing up the dark spaces between the vines with onion, it fills themin with wisps of cassis smoke. Much like how Yuzu Rouge gave me a better appreciation for Green Green Green and Green, EO5 has made me appreciate XXXXXXXXXX more.
    I'm pretty sure my guess is right, but if it is, then I'm already smelling a touch of reformulation.

    If anything, this project has taught me just how much of a lie the *LABEL ITSELF* is - no matter what associations we bring to the table. Labels don't just distort our judgement - they actually lie about the constancy of content, simply by doing their legitimate job.

    Quote Originally Posted by rogalal View Post
    The talk at our SF Sniff was that people thought it was .- -- .- --.. .. -. --. .-. . . -. which I haven't smelled. Our Barneys didn't have it, so I have no idea, though the reviews of said guess sound nothing like what we're smelling here, so I'm figuring that's probably wrong too.
    LOL - I tell you, it ain't .- -- .- --.. .. -. --. .-. . . -. !!! That much I'm sure of!!!
    * * * *

  11. #71

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    If anything, this project has taught me just how much of a lie the *LABEL ITSELF* is - no matter what associations we bring to the table. Labels don't just distort our judgement - they actually lie about the constancy of content, simply by doing their legitimate job.
    Sorry to barge in like this, but I was wondering what you mean by this, Red? It intrigues me
    @SomethingSmelly

  12. #72
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by Irina View Post
    Sorry to barge in like this, but I was wondering what you mean by this, Red? It intrigues me
    It's a fine point, but I guess I come at this from a software perspective - where version is everything. There is a tendency in fragrance for us to all coalesce in comfort around a myth - the idea that a fragrance remains constant - or even *should* remain constant. We wouldn't even think of such a thing in software. Without a version, the user is at a disadvantage, and people who don't openly and easily advertise version are typically hiding something. Chanel no. 5.212.13 for American Market, lot number on the bottom. [Kinda takes away some of the charm, I'll admit, and that's why I happily go along with the sweet lies of the fragrance world. Perfume is not software, thank G_d!]

    But even more than that, the idea of constancy prevents us from thinking about the virtue of improvement. (Vintage lovers may now borrow l'MdM's fainting couch! ) In software, we *expect* improvement. Things that hold back improvement - that delay progress - are all suspect. In fragrance, it's the opposite. We fear lazy and sneaky change, not brave and honorable stagnation.

    I've become a full-fledged modernist. I want the *next* brilliant fragrance, and I'm willing to trade old loves for new thrills!







    * * * *

  13. #73
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Red, I'm going to take your argument one step further and say that I think most of us here are at the evolutionary equivalent of cowering and sacrificing a virgin to the angry sky gods when we hear thunder. We're really into perfume, but we really have no idea about how it's really made, the business side, and the effects of time and storage, etc. We've set up IFRA and reformulation as all-purpose boogeymen that we blame whenever we encounter something we don't understand like old juice versus new juice, deteriorated topnotes, a scent not matching our memories of it, etc. And doing that is just about as dumb as sacrificing a virgin to make the rain stop.

    Check out this article from Luca Turin: http://doublebasenotes.blogspot.com/...uca-turin.html
    where he talks about receiving a shipment of Guerlains fresh from the factory and how he'd never really believed in, until then, the idea that perfumes drastically change in their first 6 months. This goes a long way to explain the Mugler Cologne questions, and could also have a hand in the discrepancies you're finding now.
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  14. #74
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by rogalal View Post
    Red, I'm going to take your argument one step further and say that I think most of us here are at the evolutionary equivalent of cowering and sacrificing a virgin to the angry sky gods when we hear thunder. We're really into perfume, but we really have no idea about how it's really made, the business side, and the effects of time and storage, etc. We've set up IFRA and reformulation as all-purpose boogeymen that we blame whenever we encounter something we don't understand like old juice versus new juice, deteriorated topnotes, a scent not matching our memories of it, etc. And doing that is just about as dumb as sacrificing a virgin to make the rain stop.

    Check out this article from Luca Turin: http://doublebasenotes.blogspot.com/...uca-turin.html
    where he talks about receiving a shipment of Guerlains fresh from the factory and how he'd never really believed in, until then, the idea that perfumes drastically change in their first 6 months. This goes a long way to explain the Mugler Cologne questions, and could also have a hand in the discrepancies you're finding now.
    Totally! I've often referred to ourselves as a kind of cargo cult of the industry, and both your and Luca's comments reassure me that I wasn't smoking some of our entheogens when I said it!

    But I think there is an alternative, and kinder way of looking at us: like the people of Niihau - the forbidden Hawaiian island. The technological peoples of the industry protect us from the silly, unromantic aspects of fragrance, so that we can enjoy fragrance as art, religion, and hedonic pleasure. Some may call us primitive, but I have learned to embrace that quality - to value it. It is our duty, in turn, to protect the fragrance culture for posterity and history, and not delve too deeply into the sordid details of technological modernity which surround us. Yes, they study us, and sometimes ask us silly questions. But we should take that as a compliment. Perhaps we did something good in our past lives, and our reward is to be freed from the sordid duties of even having to make our own religious potions.

    Sometimes, a few of us leave the preserve, to see what wonders exist out in the modern, technological world.

    Sometimes, a few of us come back.
    * * * *

  15. #75

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Bottle arrived last night. Been wearing all morning.

    First thought that popped into my head: "Oh, no, not another skinny-minny supermodel of a scent. Feed this thing a steak dinner!"

    It's not unpleasant, it's just that, to my nose, there's no "there there." If it wafted by me at a party, I wouldn't give it a second thought, much less stop the wearer and ask about it.

    But to honor Perfume Addict's initial suggestion, I'll give this a go:

    1. How does S01E05 make you feel? What mood does it create? When would you see yourself wearing it? Do you think others like it on you?
    It makes me feel like I'm smelling what a world scrubbed totally clean of any human presence would smell like, a world in which all sensual equations are made up exclusively of the very most basic and inoffensive elements of the natural world. No flowers, no animal skank, no hot breath or slow decay. Instead: rock, dirt, plant, water, all of it deliberately engineered in a lab.

    I would not wear it.

    If I did, I think most people would welcome the relief from my usual floriental sillage monsters and tell me that, for once, I smell "clean," as non-threatening and reassuring as a white Calvin Klein sheath dress in a room full of Vivienne Westwood.

    2. In what way would you describe this fragrance as “less”? Is it minimalist?
    Minimalist for sure--it hints, it doesn't shout. It doesn't even speak because it has no "chew."

    3. In what way is the fragrance “more”? Is it plush, rich, saturated? Is it sexy or sensual, and why? Is it romantic (in the 18th century sense), and why?
    If there is anything sensual about this scent, perhaps it lies in its brief whiff of pepper/tomato/earth. But, again, the prevailing cologne-like structure keeps this element at arm's length for me, almost as if I'm sniffing it through glass.

    4. Burr says the fragrance is literal, almost photo realism. Do you experience that characteristic, and if so, what do you think it is about the fragrance that causes this impression?
    See 1. Above. It doesn't make me think of any one thing. Its literal, photo realistic aspect is its quality of smelling like it was deliberately created in a lab to evoke a specific world view. That's the only way I can describe it at this point.

  16. #76
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Just got my box ((tearing it open))
    OK, it's been a week... Thoughts? I know you hate those undertones in other tomato leaf perfumes - I'm really curious how you liked EO5.

    - - - Updated - - -

    My sample from Red just arrived (thank you!). Since I had stolen some from Rotto in the mean time, I don't really need it. If anyone is interested in smelling this, please let me know. Yes, I know the reveal is in a couple of days, but someone out there (USA please) must be curious, even if it happens after we know what it is...
    Last edited by rogalal; 30th October 2012 at 06:34 PM.
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  17. #77

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Ok, Babsvs checking in from the post-Sandy Ct shoreline, very lucky and grateful. I never lost power and only lost Comcast for about 3 hours. 87% of my town is without power, so I am very blessed.

    For anyone familiar with CT, it appears that the area south of Route 1 (the Post Road) was hit hard by the surging Sound. We had more of a wind event than a rain event, and on Monday from 2 PM until about 10 PM we had very strong wind with gusts to 85 mph. Awful. I looked up at my living room window (SE facing) and realized that the size of the reflection of a lamp was changing. Let's just say that I've never gone through a roll of masking tape so quickly.

    At first I tried to figure out which of my fragrances might be calming. I was about ready for the Caldey Island Lavender, but got a migraine, probably from the extremely low barometric pressure, not to mention the Armageddon-like winds.

    I hope other Easterners will check in and let us know you are ok.

  18. #78

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by Babsvs View Post
    Ok, Babsvs checking in from the post-Sandy Ct shoreline, very lucky and grateful. I never lost power and only lost Comcast for about 3 hours. 87% of my town is without power, so I am very blessed.

    For anyone familiar with CT, it appears that the area south of Route 1 (the Post Road) was hit hard by the surging Sound. We had more of a wind event than a rain event, and on Monday from 2 PM until about 10 PM we had very strong wind with gusts to 85 mph. Awful. I looked up at my living room window (SE facing) and realized that the size of the reflection of a lamp was changing. Let's just say that I've never gone through a roll of masking tape so quickly.

    At first I tried to figure out which of my fragrances might be calming. I was about ready for the Caldey Island Lavender, but got a migraine, probably from the extremely low barometric pressure, not to mention the Armageddon-like winds.

    I hope other Easterners will check in and let us know you are ok.
    Glad to hear you're okay. Mark also posted on FB that he and his family were ok too.
    *hugs*
    @SomethingSmelly

  19. #79

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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Hi everyone we are all ok here in Poodlesville. A few lost shingles and a few broken trees but otherwise unscathed.
    With the storm bearinbg down on our area Chandler and i taped the reveal over the weekend so we would make sure it was released today.
    Here is the link to it

    http://www.cafleurebon.com/mark-behn...series-s01e05/

    I don't think the reveal will surprise many of you but I thought Chandler's comments on photorealistic perfume and what makes a great collection were pretty interesting.
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  20. #80

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    I have to thank RP for the sample, but am once again disappointed in the fragrance. I did sniff it on a couple of occasions, but couldn't even muster the energy to join in the discussion here. It's not that it's a terrible fragrance, but it's more of the same from this project: whispy, pale, transparent. Loads of modern weightless musks. Filaments and sparkle.

    If the point of this project is to help us to appreciate perfume as art, why keep showing us such a small subsection of perfume? If you wanted to introduce someone to music, or to expand their musical horizons, would you have them listen to nothing but say, 19th century string quartets? To share your appreciation for music as a whole, wouldn't you want to go to expose them to African tribal music, pieces from the various classical eras, an offering or two from the varieties of jazz, some modern pop, electronic, heavy metal, etc?

    I just don't understand the point of this anymore. Chandler chastises us for talking about scents in a specific, sometimes narrow manner (ie discussing notes), but continues to choose fragrances that all share the same weight, texture and density. We've at least tried to expand our method of discussion; will Chandler expand the diversity in his selections?

    I hope so, but I doubt it. Further, I see a lot of the commentary tends to reflect the original description by Chandler. There has been a lot of excellent commentary, and I don't mean to discount that at all, but I think people might be afraid to fully express opinions contrary to Chandler's for a multitude of reasons (and not necessarily consciously doing so). Or, when such opinions are expressed, they are always compared/contrasted to Chandler's original - thus not growing organically on their own, but always attached to the original description - like a remora fish attached to a shark.

    My question to all: Do you feel like you are learning or expanding your horizons via this project? Do you feel you are learning to more deeply embrace your own subjective experience (and descrption) of the scent?

    From my observations, it seems that the answer to the latter question in most cases would actually be no. We're discussing things via answering a series of questions, or trying to see how it does or does not fit into the frame that Chandler has created for us.

    Maybe I was never the target audience for this project. Maybe I misunderstood it from the start. But, from where I'm sitting, it's not achieving its intentions.
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  21. #81

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Thank you Mark for the video, it was interesting to hear CB talking about photo realism. I couldn't understand the names of the artists he was referring to: would someone be so kind and put those into writing for me? Thank you in advance.

    @SoS: I believe that topic was brought up before and the conclusion was, as far as I understood it, that CB only presents his taste of olfactory art. Also in the video the reason behind the series becomes pretty obvious as the series being a PR exercise for the upcoming MAD exposition. Which btw seems really promising, I wonder if the catalogue will include samples of the perfumes and if the perfumes that are presented will be fresh or vintage.

    Anyways as far as this project goes, I really enjoyed taking part together with you guys, even when I could only join the blind sniff once. It made me feel connected and imho it doesn't get more subjective than that I am also grateful for the great discussions on art related to fragrance, really educating!

    Another thing that I feel that could be a potential party pooper in this whole blind sniff thing is the presence of the modern macro musks in all presented compositions. Many many people are anosmic to them, so for those that can't smell them the fun is really a lot less. I saw this in the BN blind sniffs as well, it can make a huge difference.

    Bottom line, I think blind sniffing of any fragrance is a wonderful journey and I would urge those that can't get their rock on with CB's taste to take part in the BN's blind sniffs. There mentioning of notes is even encouraged because of the guessing game, but as far as I understood, there is enough room to give a blind sniff your own twist.
    SPOILER ALERT!!!

























    p.s. Diptyque is one of my favorite houses so I'll be totally checking out EdLierre!
    @SomethingSmelly

  22. #82
    rogalal's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    OK, so I guess I'm having my Mugler Cologne moment. My first guess for EO5 was Eau de Lierre, but the EO5 sample smelled like a bunch of stuff was missing compared to my old Diptyque sample. For one, the older Diptyque sample clearly had citrus, both a subtle bergamot chypre topnote, as well as a zingy lemon. There was also a very clear cassis note (the same funky dark cassis from L'Ombre Dans L'Eau). In my estimation, EO5 was a realistic snapshot of a bunch of vines climbing up a wall - nothing but greens and blacks and varying shades in between, while Eau De Lierre (in an older sample) was the kitchen in a cottage - there was a big open window and ivy covering the outside wall, its smell pouring in and melding with the smell of cassis syrup simmering on the stove and freshly cut lemons on the table. Basically, the "older" Lierre was much more fleshed out. Still photorealistic, but a wider view.

    OK then....
    Has everyone checked out my Top 100 Blog??
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  23. #83

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Having been born and raised in the desert Southwest—and in spite of my travels—I don't think I've ever had occasion to smell ivy. So while I definitely get its damp plant vibe, it is ultimately just too thin and clinical for my taste. It would irritate me to have to smell this all day.

  24. #84

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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    @Sculpture of Soul I don't think the Untitled Series is as cynical a form of promotion of The Art of Scent exhibit as your words seem to indicate. Do they have the opportunity to promote each other, yes. My impression is Chandler is really trying to get people to examine a fragrance on its own merits and based on sales I think he is succeeding. Within the small community of us who are actually talking about it I also thinik it has the opportunity to succeed in a different way. I know for myself I am spending much more time examining each entry and I am using a different lens to evaluate what I am experiencing. Chandler definitely has a style of fragrance he prefers and I expect E06 will be along those lines. I didn't get the chance to ask him what he has against chypres and orientals but I will eventually. Unless E06 is one.

    @Irina the same applied to those who are red/green color blind when it comes to appreciating visual art, imagine the frustration when someone talks about the vibrant red of something and you don't see it. The anosmia to macrocyclic musks also hinders a full appreciation of a fragrance which contains them and more problematic is many people who are anosmic probably have no idea that they aren't able to smell what everyone else says they smell, once again it must be very frustrating. I do know that the plan is for the catalog of the exhibit to contain a sample of each fragrance in the show. The accompanying text will also contain Chandler's description of each fragrance and the "school" of fragrance it belongs to. Once I get my hands on the finished product that is something I am looking forward to talking about on Basenotes because as I've said many times I believe it will provide a starting point for us to evolve a continuing discussion of Olfactory Art.

    @rogalal I am very glad you are having your Mugler Moment. Have you been able to compare them side-by-side? I would be very interested to hear your impressions in that instance.

    @Perfume pour Moi I can see where this could be irritating. As I mentioned in the reveal I felt like it was an olfactory snapshot and that bit of artistry is something to be admired in my opinion. That doesn't mean I reach for this a lot but there are days I want to feel like a brick wall covered in ivy.
    More writing on fragrance by me to be found at http://www.cafleurebon.com/

  25. #85

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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    I have to thank RP for the sample, but am once again disappointed in the fragrance. I did sniff it on a couple of occasions, but couldn't even muster the energy to join in the discussion here. It's not that it's a terrible fragrance, but it's more of the same from this project: whispy, pale, transparent. Loads of modern weightless musks. Filaments and sparkle.

    If the point of this project is to help us to appreciate perfume as art, why keep showing us such a small subsection of perfume? If you wanted to introduce someone to music, or to expand their musical horizons, would you have them listen to nothing but say, 19th century string quartets? To share your appreciation for music as a whole, wouldn't you want to go to expose them to African tribal music, pieces from the various classical eras, an offering or two from the varieties of jazz, some modern pop, electronic, heavy metal, etc?

    I just don't understand the point of this anymore. Chandler chastises us for talking about scents in a specific, sometimes narrow manner (ie discussing notes), but continues to choose fragrances that all share the same weight, texture and density. We've at least tried to expand our method of discussion; will Chandler expand the diversity in his selections?

    I hope so, but I doubt it. Further, I see a lot of the commentary tends to reflect the original description by Chandler. There has been a lot of excellent commentary, and I don't mean to discount that at all, but I think people might be afraid to fully express opinions contrary to Chandler's for a multitude of reasons (and not necessarily consciously doing so). Or, when such opinions are expressed, they are always compared/contrasted to Chandler's original - thus not growing organically on their own, but always attached to the original description - like a remora fish attached to a shark.

    My question to all: Do you feel like you are learning or expanding your horizons via this project? Do you feel you are learning to more deeply embrace your own subjective experience (and descrption) of the scent?

    From my observations, it seems that the answer to the latter question in most cases would actually be no. We're discussing things via answering a series of questions, or trying to see how it does or does not fit into the frame that Chandler has created for us.

    Maybe I was never the target audience for this project. Maybe I misunderstood it from the start. But, from where I'm sitting, it's not achieving its intentions.
    I agree wholeheartedly. The only thing I've learned is that Mr. Burr and I are in total disagreement on what a good perfume should smell like. How any one would give such a lofty description of such a nothing scent is beyond me.

  26. #86
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    So this will be revealed...when? I'm a bit confused.
    "When you become comfortable with uncertainty. infinite possibilities open up in your life"

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  27. #87

    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    So this will be revealed...when? I'm a bit confused.
    The reveal - Eau de Lierre - was posted this morning on OpenSky.

  28. #88
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    So this will be revealed...when? I'm a bit confused.
    Mike - the fragrance was revealed in the video, although not until near the middle. It's Eau de Lierre by Diptyque. And Chandler will be taking off a month for the museum opening. Presumably S01E06 will go online at some point in the future - perhaps the beginnning of December or in the New Year.

    Interesting that rogalal had his E02 (Mugler Cologne) moment! I had a completely new type of brain malfunction on this one!

    To me, S01E05 smells almost identical to Hermès Eau de Gentiane Blanche. I would love to know the formulas of the two scents, because I strongly suspect that there is a single aromachemical which - in my nose - dominates in both formulas. I even did side-by-side sniffs. While not identical, the differences were less than in the case of S01E01 and S02E02. I was certain that I knew what it was. I was truly shocked to discover that I was wrong.

    I think it's good that he's taking some time off. Not only am I finding the need to take a rest, but I am truly flummoxed by this scent.

    I need a break!
    * * * *

  29. #89
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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Quote Originally Posted by thebeck View Post
    I agree wholeheartedly. The only thing I've learned is that Mr. Burr and I are in total disagreement on what a good perfume should smell like. How any one would give such a lofty description of such a nothing scent is beyond me.
    This is exactly why I didn't comment on S01E05. I found it incredibly boring and forgettable.

  30. #90

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    Default Re: Chandler Burr Untitled S01E05

    Just so everyone is clear S01E06 will go on sale on December 1 with a reveal on December 31 and then there are no more planned breaks and there should be a new entry every month after that.
    More writing on fragrance by me to be found at http://www.cafleurebon.com/

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