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  1. #1

    Default Mid notes for "Vetiver" fragrance. Any suggestions?

    Hi everyone,
    After 2 months of reading, blending and smelling I fianlly came up with a formula for a masculine "vetiver" fragrance that I (and most important others too) like a lot. It has a cologne like clean freshness at the top that changes into a nice green rooty vetiver with woody and incense nuances at the base. On my skin it has a 7+ hour longevity which is very nice. The only problem I have is that I'd wish it had a more prominent mid section. Since my initial concern was to make something that would lean more on the masculine side, I tried to avoid florals for the mid (just a small amount of hedione). As a result, when the citrus-spicy top starts to faint the fragrance seems to enter into the long but nice base practically omitting a mid section that could give it more depth, complexity and interest.
    Any suggestions for the middle part?

  2. #2

    Default Re: Mid notes for "Vetiver" fragrance. Any suggestions?

    Hello evinick,
    I am going to reply in English here, even though Greek could be a valid option as I see. :-)
    All vetiver accords I have made for fun or exercise always benefited from the addition of black pepper EO.
    Now, I am no big fan of black pepper EO as I feel it smells kind of boring and "depressed" but with vetiver it always worked well during the first couple hours or so..
    I know I have more to offer on this subject but at the moment black pepper is the only thing I can think to suggest.
    "I have the sun in my pocket"
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  3. #3

    Default Re: Mid notes for "Vetiver" fragrance. Any suggestions?

    Thanks a lot Ion. I have already used black pepper EO. It is actually a part (along with bergamot, petigrain, cardamom, peppermint and others) of the citrus-spicy top. Black pepper is wonderful but unfortunately faints quite fast and if not paired with other (peppery) spices often seems one dimensional. I d'like something more warm to match with the base.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Mid notes for "Vetiver" fragrance. Any suggestions?

    Congrats on your frag - sounds wonderful. Vetiver is a great material if used well.

    I am no perfumer, so I cannot help much here. But just by chance yesterday I was wearing Vero Kern Onda, a wonderful
    leather and vetiver combo. The vetiver cleans and freshens up the leather well. So I'm wondering if some leathery notes, be they
    birch tar or quinolines, can make the vetiver richer. It seems to me that some narcissus extract or tobacco might also fit well.

    cacio

  5. #5

    Default Re: Mid notes for "Vetiver" fragrance. Any suggestions?

    A rose otto isn't too floral or feminine compared to a CO2 extraction and can be very round. Iris too. Second on a tobacco.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Mid notes for "Vetiver" fragrance. Any suggestions?

    Tobacco (a trace) is included in my formula. I ve tried to add more but it seems to take over vetiver. Rose frightens me so much. besides the only roses I have in hand is Bulgarian rose EO (which I am sure it will destroy everything I have built up to now), geranium EO (rose like and quite heavy) and phenethyll alcohol. Leather and iris sound great. I ll try them both in two separate blends and see what happens...thanks!

  7. #7

    Default Re: Mid notes for "Vetiver" fragrance. Any suggestions?

    There are so many options!

    Rose goes very well with vetiver, the same for geranium. Other options: coriander, both the green (cilantro) as the seed. Though used in classic female fragrances (including Chanel no 5) I think it is possible to get a more masculine version of the combination jasmin/rose. Clary sage would be usefull, carnation is another floral option, pine is a bit old fashioned but I still like it.
    Eau Sauvage has petitgrain and basil in the heart.

    Tobacco goes very well with vetiver, but is probably hard to get in the heart, it is usualy a basenote.

    So: a lot of options.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Mid notes for "Vetiver" fragrance. Any suggestions?

    Classic middle notes for a masculine fragrance include:
    Dihydromyrcenol - think Drakkar Noir as the characteristic example here. Works well with citrus, especially lime or grapefruit.
    Petitgrain - ideal as a transition between woody and citrus notes as it contains elements of both
    Hedione Hi Cis - much better in a masculine fragrance than ordinary Hedione in my view
    Galbanum - use in moderation to add depth and green notes
    Helional - adds bright, freshness without going marine or ozonic
    Calone - if you want to go towards the more marine-fresh type
    Schinus molle (pink pepper) - brighter and spicier than black pepper and blends well with it
    Violet Leaf Absolute - adds green notes and a tiny, subtle floral quality.
    Lavender Absolute - gives a green, ferny quality but use with care or it can flatten the top notes
    Lemongrass or Litsea cubeba - both great for extending citrus notes, particularly lemon
    Olibanum EO - also wonderful for extending citrus notes and more versatile than lemongrass or Litsea cubeba and works particularly well with a woody, masculine base.
    Ethyl linalool - a finer, less agressic character than plain linalool but both make a good contribution to middle notes of a masculine fragrance and work nicely with vetiver and woods
    Delta damascone - used in traces can give a slightly fruity/floral but quite dry edge to the middle notes.

    That's probably enough to be going on with . . .
    Last edited by Chris Bartlett; 7th October 2012 at 04:56 PM. Reason: minor corrections
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  9. #9

    Default Re: Mid notes for "Vetiver" fragrance. Any suggestions?

    Thanks everyone. Chris this is a great list, I 'll try to make good use of your knowledge and experience.

  10. #10
    Super Member racuda's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mid notes for "Vetiver" fragrance. Any suggestions?

    evinick, can you please give an update to your mid note search? I, for one, am very curious if you found anything that really "clicked".

  11. #11

    Default Re: Mid notes for "Vetiver" fragrance. Any suggestions?

    Well, I decided to make two separate blends. I call them Leather-Vetiver and Iris-Vetiver. In Leather-Vetiver among others I used a tiny bit of safraleine and suederal, plus some ambrox and Iso E-super for the base. It is green. leathery (of course) more woody and sweeter than his floral brother. Leather & vetiver seem to work great as a team (in the hands of a serious perfumer I think this duo can do magic). In Iris-Vetiver I ve added a small amount of carrot seed EO for the top, to pair with the Iris oriented floral heart, which works very nice. When this rooty earthy iris burst fades away the whole composition gets a tea like, dry, woody quality which I'm not sure that can stand by its own as a complete fragrance. I'm not even sure I like it actually. I've already used leather vetiver as an addition to a classic eau de cologne formula and it works very nice. As for the Iris Vetiver, I guess I have to figure out where to use it as a floral-woody component, or it will end up in a candle, soap or room spray.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Mid notes for "Vetiver" fragrance. Any suggestions?

    I guess I'm late here for this Q. But here's my thoughts...I was thinking about a wood theme, making choices from these options:

    Cedars, Junipers
    Hiba / Hinoki
    higher noted sandalwood chems, Amyris
    Smoke tree EO
    Sage / Sagebrush / Rabbitbrush / Clary Sage EOs

    And as for florals, tiny amounts of florals enrich, but won't take over... they become subliminal if used in small enough amounts. Jasmine and rose particularly would enrich well as subliminals.

    And then for a little louder florals, how about Genet, and Mimosa?

    And Chris' thoughts are great ones too.

    Paul Kiler
    Last edited by socalwoman; 19th January 2013 at 09:43 PM.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Mid notes for "Vetiver" fragrance. Any suggestions?

    What "leather" are you using?

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Mid notes for "Vetiver" fragrance. Any suggestions?

    Cinnamon + petitgrain + nutmeg + splash of lavender

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