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  1. #1
    Basenotes Junkie anomie et ivoire's Avatar
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    Default Herbal Feminines?

    Herbal as a term gets thrown around for masculine fougeres often enough. Sometimes the term 'medicinal' is used for the herbaceous when coupled with spiciness. I just know that I love herbal smells. Go to a health food store or botanical herb garden? Swoon from the deep, earthy smell so full of character, so grandly eternal!

    Some feminine ~"herbals":

    some Aqua Allegorias
    lots of Miller Harris
    Ambre Sultan

    So, what does herbal mean to you in fragrance? A real definition of the term is not really out there/somewhat abstract, as something needn't be an herb to smell herbal and v/v. Lavender, tonka, medicinals? Hmm. There must be more. Do you know any good herbal feminines?

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Herbal Feminines?

    I like Gypsy Water

  3. #3

    Default Re: Herbal Feminines?

    Clinique Wrappings the zenith of herbal feminines. Not particularly spicey but certainly herbal. Rosemary, bay, bitter aloes and citrus. Wonderful!

    Also the wintergreen opening of Tubereuse Criminelle

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Herbal Feminines?

    When I think of an herbal fragrance I usually think of Habanita, but the notes, don't really back that up.

    Here are a few others I thought of:
    Basil- Lime, Basil & Mandarin-Jo Malone
    Anise- Vanilla & Anise- Jo Malone
    Cardamon and coriander- Un Jardin Apres la Mousson- Hermes
    Sage and Basil- Eau de Sud- Annick Goutal
    Bay Leaves- Blackberry & Bay- Jo Malone

  5. #5

    Default Re: Herbal Feminines?

    I don't see any problems for a woman to wear most masculine aromatic fougeres.

    Stuff that comes to mind marketed to women include many Avedas, which, being supposedly organic, need to make
    abundant use of herbs for structure and variety (eg Yatra, or many of the Chakras); a few Diptyques (Eau de Dyptique, Virgilio, etc.), a few Lutens (not just AS, also Arabie, for instance), and even Apres l'Ondee has a clear herbal bouquet.


  6. #6

    Default Re: Herbal Feminines?

    Shiso by Aftelier an the ultimate example - a fragrance based on an old geisha recipe, but medicinal, herbal, green, vegetal... fantastic.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Herbal Feminines?

    Not sure it's really considered an herbal, but I think of Aromatics Elixir.
    I have a real "love-hate-love" relationship with it's '70s hippie vibe!

  8. #8

    Default Re: Herbal Feminines?

    All above make sense - for something that is a little more 'out there' Epic Woman (Amouage) has a fascinating quality that says 'Northern China' to me - a herbal medicinal tonic mix that is just wonderful. The Silk Road is the inspiration and I think they nailed it with this one.

    Some of the Santa Maria Novella line also have what is almost a herbal 'house note', certainly evocative of a more rural heritage to me. Try Pot Pourri and explore some of the other offerings.

    Dior Granville has a slighly 'garriguey' quality, more overtly piney, but worth a shot.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Herbal Feminines?

    vetyver anything!
    AA Herba Fresca
    the go to is Italian lines.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Herbal Feminines?

    chanel no. 18 comes to mind, it may be the interplay of cumin and flowers
    "Like a lobster with a pearl in its claw, the beet held the jasmine firmly without crushing or obscuring it. Beet lifted jasmine, the way a bullnecked partner lifts a ballerina, and the pair came on stage on citron's fluty cue. As if jasmine were a collection of beautiful paintings, beet hung it in the galleries of the nose, insured it against fire or theft, threw a party to celebrate it. Citron mailed the invitations." Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins p. 189

    What I am loving right now: Shalimar vintage extrait, Chanel Bois des Iles, Chanel no. 22, Le Labo Iris 39, Guerlain Iris Ganache

  11. #11

    Default Re: Herbal Feminines?

    From male viewpoint, one of the most herbal feminine scents I have ever experienced, even while I cannot point out, define, describe any of its notes, is "Miss Dior". In fact, to my nose at least, that herbal, it could almost work as a unisex and/or male scent too.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Herbal Feminines?

    I thought of Miss Dior, too, Ken Russell, for its sage note - but I don't know how oakmossy, green, and sagey it is anymore, given reformulations. MD used to be oe of my favorites. I 2nd Mr. Reasonable's suggestion of the house of SMN.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Herbal Feminines?

    Clarins Eau Dynamisante is a favourite feminine herbal of mine - I've been wearing it for 15 or so years. I also love O de Lancôme.

    I don't find either one of them to be overtly feminine, though, but they aren't overtly masculine either, and they are both marketed as feminines, I believe.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Herbal Feminines?

    There is a Caron, but a men's - I think it's Yatagan

  15. #15

    Default Re: Herbal Feminines?

    I was going to say Yatagan, actually - glad you mentioned it.

    It has a reassuring earthy, herbal, slightly piney tone - wild herbs, not tended with TLC in a nice little herb garden on a windowsill kinda thing

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Herbal Feminines?

    Borsari Macchia Mediterranea

    TaoLady said this smelled of green herbs on her. On me it smells like dried herbs.
    In a world where 6 million people are added each month, every landscape matters.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Herbal Feminines?

    If you like herbal stuff you shouldn't miss O'Driù...check this thread out...

    Discover my Guest Reviewer Of The Day here

  18. #18
    Basenotes Junkie anomie et ivoire's Avatar
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    Default Re: Herbal Feminines?

    Oh, to be clearer: the only reason I said 'feminines' was that the herbal accord description is used less in feminine-intended scents, so that elusiveness intrigues me and seems as if it might lie in lesser-knowns. This is not about the fallacy of any scent having a real gender, just how they are marketed. I have this prejudice of generally finding feminine-marketed scents much better-made than masculines. I am often put off by the crudeness or bored by male-intended scents and fully understand men who wear mostly feminines or niche neutrals. Any masculine-intended scents that are strikingly herbal fully apply here though. Pour Un Homme is archetypal herbal but still so sweet. Health food store herbal as I search would be drier, yes, like Yatagan.

    Are any perfumers or brands (several good ones already mentioned above) known to have an herbal signature? Sometimes this is said of Jacques Cavallier.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Herbal Feminines?

    Niki de St. Phalle has an herbal quality.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Herbal Feminines?

    Hi A&I. Nice thread!

    I second;

    The O'Driu range. Must be tried to appreciate.
    Dior Granville, very herbal, good thyme note.

    And I add;

    The Testa Maura range. Herby and natural, but with some pizzaz.

    And, a BIG rec for Etat Libre D'Orange Eloge Du Traitre. I think that this one might be where you're heading sister!! Dark and tinder dry. Pine and laurel, bay, artemisia. Yatagans descendant. A shady fragrance for a spy. Masculine as such but who cares. Please try it!!

  21. #21

    Default Re: Herbal Feminines?

    Quote Originally Posted by Foustie View Post

    The Testa Maura range. Herby and natural, but with some pizzaz.
    Ops, I could I have forgotten about Testa Maura...

    Discover my Guest Reviewer Of The Day here

  22. #22

    Default Re: Herbal Feminines?

    You know, Villoresi might be worth looking at too.

    Uomo and Yerbamate are two I like, both have a lightly dusted with herbs quality and the Colonia is also exquisite. Interesting that Villoresi & SMN are both based in Florence. Well, I find it interesting

  23. #23

    Default Re: Herbal Feminines?

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    Dior Granville has a slighly 'garriguey' quality, more overtly piney, but worth a shot.
    I like Granville very much. I need to get me a decant of that, soon

  24. #24

    Default Re: Herbal Feminines?

    Coriandre (Jean Couturier).

    Calandre (Paco Rabanne).

    Jean-Louis Scherrer. green juice.

    Creed Green Valley. unisex.

    FRANK by Frank Los Angeles. unisex.
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