I like Gypsy Water
Thread: Herbal Feminines?
Herbal as a term gets thrown around for masculine fougeres often enough. Sometimes the term 'medicinal' is used for the herbaceous when coupled with spiciness. I just know that I love herbal smells. Go to a health food store or botanical herb garden? Swoon from the deep, earthy smell so full of character, so grandly eternal!
Some feminine ~"herbals":
some Aqua Allegorias
lots of Miller Harris
So, what does herbal mean to you in fragrance? A real definition of the term is not really out there/somewhat abstract, as something needn't be an herb to smell herbal and v/v. Lavender, tonka, medicinals? Hmm. There must be more. Do you know any good herbal feminines?
I like Gypsy Water
Clinique Wrappings the zenith of herbal feminines. Not particularly spicey but certainly herbal. Rosemary, bay, bitter aloes and citrus. Wonderful!
Also the wintergreen opening of Tubereuse Criminelle
When I think of an herbal fragrance I usually think of Habanita, but the notes, don't really back that up.
Here are a few others I thought of:
Basil- Lime, Basil & Mandarin-Jo Malone
Anise- Vanilla & Anise- Jo Malone
Cardamon and coriander- Un Jardin Apres la Mousson- Hermes
Sage and Basil- Eau de Sud- Annick Goutal
Bay Leaves- Blackberry & Bay- Jo Malone
I don't see any problems for a woman to wear most masculine aromatic fougeres.
Stuff that comes to mind marketed to women include many Avedas, which, being supposedly organic, need to make
abundant use of herbs for structure and variety (eg Yatra, or many of the Chakras); a few Diptyques (Eau de Dyptique, Virgilio, etc.), a few Lutens (not just AS, also Arabie, for instance), and even Apres l'Ondee has a clear herbal bouquet.
Not sure it's really considered an herbal, but I think of Aromatics Elixir.
I have a real "love-hate-love" relationship with it's '70s hippie vibe!
All above make sense - for something that is a little more 'out there' Epic Woman (Amouage) has a fascinating quality that says 'Northern China' to me - a herbal medicinal tonic mix that is just wonderful. The Silk Road is the inspiration and I think they nailed it with this one.
Some of the Santa Maria Novella line also have what is almost a herbal 'house note', certainly evocative of a more rural heritage to me. Try Pot Pourri and explore some of the other offerings.
Dior Granville has a slighly 'garriguey' quality, more overtly piney, but worth a shot.
AA Herba Fresca
the go to is Italian lines.
chanel no. 18 comes to mind, it may be the interplay of cumin and flowers
"Like a lobster with a pearl in its claw, the beet held the jasmine firmly without crushing or obscuring it. Beet lifted jasmine, the way a bullnecked partner lifts a ballerina, and the pair came on stage on citron's fluty cue. As if jasmine were a collection of beautiful paintings, beet hung it in the galleries of the nose, insured it against fire or theft, threw a party to celebrate it. Citron mailed the invitations." Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins p. 189
What I am loving right now: Shalimar vintage extrait, Chanel Bois des Iles, Chanel no. 22, Le Labo Iris 39, Guerlain Iris Ganache
From male viewpoint, one of the most herbal feminine scents I have ever experienced, even while I cannot point out, define, describe any of its notes, is "Miss Dior". In fact, to my nose at least, that herbal, it could almost work as a unisex and/or male scent too.
I thought of Miss Dior, too, Ken Russell, for its sage note - but I don't know how oakmossy, green, and sagey it is anymore, given reformulations. MD used to be oe of my favorites. I 2nd Mr. Reasonable's suggestion of the house of SMN.
Clarins Eau Dynamisante is a favourite feminine herbal of mine - I've been wearing it for 15 or so years. I also love O de Lancôme.
I don't find either one of them to be overtly feminine, though, but they aren't overtly masculine either, and they are both marketed as feminines, I believe.
There is a Caron, but a men's - I think it's Yatagan
I was going to say Yatagan, actually - glad you mentioned it.
It has a reassuring earthy, herbal, slightly piney tone - wild herbs, not tended with TLC in a nice little herb garden on a windowsill kinda thing
If you like herbal stuff you shouldn't miss O'Driù...check this thread out...
Oh, to be clearer: the only reason I said 'feminines' was that the herbal accord description is used less in feminine-intended scents, so that elusiveness intrigues me and seems as if it might lie in lesser-knowns. This is not about the fallacy of any scent having a real gender, just how they are marketed. I have this prejudice of generally finding feminine-marketed scents much better-made than masculines. I am often put off by the crudeness or bored by male-intended scents and fully understand men who wear mostly feminines or niche neutrals. Any masculine-intended scents that are strikingly herbal fully apply here though. Pour Un Homme is archetypal herbal but still so sweet. Health food store herbal as I search would be drier, yes, like Yatagan.
Are any perfumers or brands (several good ones already mentioned above) known to have an herbal signature? Sometimes this is said of Jacques Cavallier.
Niki de St. Phalle has an herbal quality.
Hi A&I. Nice thread!
The O'Driu range. Must be tried to appreciate.
Dior Granville, very herbal, good thyme note.
And I add;
The Testa Maura range. Herby and natural, but with some pizzaz.
And, a BIG rec for Etat Libre D'Orange Eloge Du Traitre. I think that this one might be where you're heading sister!! Dark and tinder dry. Pine and laurel, bay, artemisia. Yatagans descendant. A shady fragrance for a spy. Masculine as such but who cares. Please try it!!
You know, Villoresi might be worth looking at too.
Uomo and Yerbamate are two I like, both have a lightly dusted with herbs quality and the Colonia is also exquisite. Interesting that Villoresi & SMN are both based in Florence. Well, I find it interesting
Coriandre (Jean Couturier).
Calandre (Paco Rabanne).
Jean-Louis Scherrer. green juice.
Creed Green Valley. unisex.
FRANK by Frank Los Angeles. unisex.
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