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  1. #1

    Default Finding a dusty white aquatic floral chypre, I think. Enlighten me?

    I am looking for a perfume that can become my new signature scent. Don't judge, but mine has always been Ralph Lauren Blue (for women). I LOVE it, but I want to broaden my horizons and the scent is discontinued (or at least harder to find). After spending hours on this site and various blogs, I joined, hoping to learn more. I am relatively new at perfumes; however, I think this is because I simply am turned off by most of them. I don't know if this is because I live in the U.S. and the perfumes here are "sweeter" and laden with vanilla, or simply because I haven't exposed myself to good perfumes. Probably a little bit of both aspects apply in my case.

    What I do know is that I am really turned off by fruity scents and some florals, I tend to like white florals, I like aquatics and unisex perfumes, I like some citrus, greens, and clean scents (even medicinal ones) - but not too much sour, or herbal-ness, or soapy-ness, respectively. I love woodsy scents like oakmoss, ambrette seed, vetiver (not so much on the patchouli) but not if they are overwhelming. Orientals are okay, and I like warm spiciness in very small amounts, but I'm out on vanilla or cinnamon or clove! I am becoming familiar with the Chypre-style of perfumes and I think this style fits me the best, but I'm really not sure.

    Overall, I wan't a scent that combines my favorite elements, and perhaps becomes more than the sum of its parts. It must be strong yet feminine, alluring but not overpowering. I'm not the kind of woman to read beauty magazines or go to a shopping mall, and typically am turned off by the sorts of perfumes I associate with those things. I'm the kind of young woman who can jetset across the country, attend a benefit event at a museum before hopping on the bus and to take shots at a dive bar across town, and then happily spend the evening lounging on a beach listening to the surf - all before flying back home to transplant seedlings, go fly-fishing, or feed the horses on my farm. What I am trying to say is that I'm a Jane of trades, and I would like a perfume to match my personality.

    Can anyone help me broaden my horizons and develop, or cultivate, a nose? It'd also be lovely to find a new signature scent while I'm at it. I understand that complex perfumes may incorporate scents that I don't like, but in such a way that melts with the other ingredients, becoming something greater. If that makes sense. All the same, here's a list of every day scents I like:

    Bergamot
    Lemon
    Grapefruit
    Lily of the Valley
    Peony (I think, but am truly not sure)
    Lotus
    Orange Blossom
    Tuberose - (in small amounts)
    Gardenia (in small amounts)
    Hydrangea
    Geranium
    Ginger
    Honeydew (in small amounts)
    Apple (in small amounts)
    Nectarine (in small amounts)
    Coriander
    Auracacia or tea tree
    White Tea
    Celery
    Leather
    Cedar
    Oakmoss
    Ambrette Seed
    Amber (in small amounts)
    Vetiver (in small amounts)
    Musty old libraries
    Dusty smell that happens when it rains for the first time in a long time, i.e. the smell of rainstorms in the Southwest states (my favorite smell)
    Air conditioner smell
    Mossy-antique-y smell in fake flower departments of craft stores like Hobby Lobby
    The smell of a forest during a fog
    Last edited by desertclouds; 3rd October 2012 at 08:35 PM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Finding a dusty white aquatic floral chypre, I think. Enlighten me?

    Welcome!

    I think you could explore the genre of green chypres, which pair clean, fresh green accents with dark, forest, woody ones - depending, they range from very clean, almost soapy, to very dark and vegetal. Examples range from Chanel Cristalle (very cold and bitter) to Piguet Futur (mix of dark and soap), the crisp green Jacomo Silences, the difficult to find Ormonde Jayne Tiare (slightly citrusy, more relaxed), or even Piguet Bandit (butch green leather, whips and biker jackets-though this is, indeed, about power).

    Another scent that comes to mind is Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss, a "new chypre", a clean chypre with floral accents and not too much chypric bitterness. Definitely more sedate than true green chypres, but still breezy and modern.

    In vetiver territory, there's Chanel Sycomore, fresh vetiver plus a touch of smoky woods to make it good for evenings as well. This is a summer favorite for me here in DC. More a masculine than a feminine, but perfect for women too.

    cacio

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Finding a dusty white aquatic floral chypre, I think. Enlighten me?

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss, a "new chypre", a clean chypre with floral accents and not too much chypric bitterness. Definitely more sedate than true green chypres, but still breezy and modern.
    +1. This was the first one that came to my mind when reading your post.

    l also think you might like Tauer's Carillon pour un Ange; a complex, earthy, mossy lily of the valley.

    And for that "after the rain" smell; Annick Goutal's Un Matin d'Orage.

    Welcome to basenotes!
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Finding a dusty white aquatic floral chypre, I think. Enlighten me?

    cacio,

    Thank you for your advice! I am interested in learning more about chypres - traditional, green, modern, and others - and the ones you have listed have given me such a great start. I've read several reviews about Piguet Bandit (I think one may have been yours) and think it might be first on my to-try list. Your descriptions are great at giving me an idea of what each scent smells like. I hope I can develop a good nose and eventually be able to explain fragrances in the same way.

    - - - Updated - - -

    teardrop,

    Thank you for your recommendations and warm welcome! I have ran into many reviews of EL Jasmine White Moss in my research and will surely be trying it out. I am also really interested in the other two you have mentioned. I hope I can learn more about green chypres and also find a perfume with an "after the rain" smell.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Finding a dusty white aquatic floral chypre, I think. Enlighten me?

    Hi there,

    Thinking of white florals and aquatics, Marc Jacobs Woman came to mind, particularly because of a great review of it on Bois de Jasmin yesterday: http://boisdejasmin.com/2012/10/marc...ce-review.html

    Notes for this one are listed as gardenia, cedar, ginger, lily of the valley, and musk, which seem to hit a lot of the ones that you like. Best of luck in searching for your new scent!

  6. #6

    Default Re: Finding a dusty white aquatic floral chypre, I think. Enlighten me?

    Somehow Sous Le Vent comes to mind. This is more of a dry chypre.

    Do try before you buy. In the green categories, I love Vol de Nuit.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Finding a dusty white aquatic floral chypre, I think. Enlighten me?

    MDCI Chypre Pallatin.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Finding a dusty white aquatic floral chypre, I think. Enlighten me?

    Welcome desertclouds!!

    The scent I immediately thought of is Chanel no 19.
    For a beautiful floral/leather try Chanel Cuir de Russie

  9. #9

    Default Re: Finding a dusty white aquatic floral chypre, I think. Enlighten me?

    La Perla Blue.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Finding a dusty white aquatic floral chypre, I think. Enlighten me?

    Try:

    Lys Mediterranee by Frederic Malle - Upon application, one is treated to a saline, oceanic breeze, majestically wafting among the cool greeness of dew-kissed lily of the valley, the breathtaking sweetness of Madonna lily, and the peppery, spicy and rooty character of ginger. This somewhat fresh illusion to a growing lily, in bloom, drifts to the heart. Here, a herbal angelica, with its green and woody, pine-like facet, envelops the opening. A wonderful orange blossom contributes its somewhat indolic and earthy sweetness. And, a beguiling water lily imparts its stale wine and faintly waxy character. Segueing to the base, a mild musk, with woody and floral as well as slight animalic facets, interplays with a subdued, vanillic semi-sweetness. A pleasing drydown ensues. This easy and somewhat elegant composition will shine in the spring and summer, and has good projection and very good longevity.

    &

    Stephen Jones by Comme des Garcons - a somewhat cold and metallic scent, which augurs an astringent and detached, futuristic vibe, reminiscent of isolated indifference.
    Initially one is treated to an icy verdancy from violet leaf, akin to grass clippings with a nuance of greenness from cucumber. A cool, mineral accord, akin to iron shavings and weathered peebles, swirls about. And, magical aldehydes impart their soapiness and effervescence. Transitioning to the heart, an antiseptic clove infuses the fresh opening with its smoky spiciness and a faint, charred-wood nuance. After a bit, a floral melange of sweetly spicy, vanillic carnation, sweet velvety rose, tutti-fruitti jasmine and powdery, cherry-vanilla heliotrope encase the scent, and segues to the awaiting base. Guiacwood, with its honeyed-rose sweetness as well as smoky and rubber nuances, commingles with black cumin with its pungent spiciness and hint of strawberry. An earthy vetiver, with its grassy and clumped dirt vibe, presents. And, a clean aldehyde sweeps in with its freshly-laundered linen aspect. A somewhat enigmatic drydown ensues. This unique and unisex composition has average projection and longevity, 6-7 hours.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Finding a dusty white aquatic floral chypre, I think. Enlighten me?

    Try LesNez Manoumalia. On my skin, this is a dusty white floral with a hint of green.
    For sale: JL Scherrer parfum (reduced price) and more!

    "One half of the world cannot understand the pleasures of the other." ~ Jane Austen

    “Pleasure is the flower that passes; remembrance, the lasting perfume” ~ Jean de Boufflers

  12. #12

    Default Re: Finding a dusty white aquatic floral chypre, I think. Enlighten me?

    Not sure where you live, but there is a scent by Arran Aromatics that is available in the U.K.
    called "After the Rain."
    Here is the link:
    http://www.arranaromatics.com/listra...FcfKtAodL1IAAw

    You might also like Guerlain's Apres L'Ondee.
    A woman without perfume is like a flower without a scent.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Finding a dusty white aquatic floral chypre, I think. Enlighten me?

    Lots of good suggestions so far. Would like to add L'eau d'hiver by Frederic Malle,Miss Dior (the original), Eau de Merveilles by Hermes and maybe also For her by Narciso Rodriguez. ( I prefer the edt,but the edp is also good but more floral on my skin)

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