Foustie, I agree. Dark and charmingly, elegantly morbid. That said, to my understanding, Secartion has nothing to do with O'Driù. It will probably be a one-off composition by Pregoni which will not be included in the regular O'Driu's range. It will be introduced worldwide with a bunch of art-performances by the author (several around europe and some in the US as well) and it will most probably have different distribution channels from O'Driù...
Here's an excerpt from an article I've found online...
"Marketing is the dominant sub-culture in every planetary social relationship, the simplistic stereotypes dictated by advertising have depleted the value of the individual, depriving it of a subjective identity and reducing it to a mere target audience. Secraction reworks the postulates of marketing in a unique and singular utopia, a scent that becomes a product only with us, and for us only through a intimate and secret action that turns us into protagonists. From this new perspective, you can definitely consider Secraction as pure art: not a copy of a copy, not the mere imitation but the catharsis of the world, the evacuation intended as purification! "
I actually quite like it even if I'll save my final comment on when I'll see the actual bottle (I think the materials will play a relevant role here. Donna Karan anyone?). That said, IMO it looks more like a nun than a "Agonist" bottle. It has the slight sinful vibe of most of late 70s early 80s italian soft-core movies...An Edwige Fenech type of vibe. I believe in this context, it perfectly fits the fragrance.
Nasenmann, you're sooooo acute!![]()
Last edited by alfarom; 10th December 2012 at 01:11 PM.
Well, I haven't done a wearing yet, but I will say that on paper, it's certainly his most conventional creation by far -- which makes sense since he is planning a wider release. At the same time, it does exhibit the hallmarks of O'Driu -- bitter herbs and a LOT of castoreum. Except now they are very tempered by judicious rose, cinnamon and vanilla. I think the "secret ingredient" fits right in very cleverly.
Some inspirational pictures used for the design of the bottle which is going to be made of crystal and black bakelite. The cap will be an upside down funnel...
![]()
Yes actually, a message from Anna yesterday. So, soon........
- - - Updated - - -
After a couple of full wearings of the "standard" version, today I went for the "personalized" one and must say that while the difference is substantial, at the same time it's not radical. The fragrance still preserves a thick leathery-musky-balmy structure but the vanillla, after the initial blast, gets tamed down brutally leaving space to a nice appleish-cinnamon combo that while sounding gourmandish, it totally skips the edible aspect of the accord introducing a metallic, sort of nose-tingling vibe the drives the fragrance towards modern territories. The interesting aspect is that, despite the slightly metallic accord, Secraction still feels incredibly warm, subtly animalic, sort of visceral. Again, there's NOTHING challenging about this composition, in fact, is quite easy to like. What, IMO, really changes from the "standard" version is that the base is less woody, less peppery and more about a spicy floral musk combo. The woods get almost killed in the "augmented" version.
A funny thing I'd like to point out after several wearings is that Secraction works subliminally. You think it's gone but then you get whiffs of its peculiar projection and this goes on and on and on...Projection! This is the point of stregth of this stuff. Don't get me wrong, Secraction is not a projection monster (at least not after the first two hours or so) but I find it smelling a lot differently when smelled up close. This is a very well done fragrance but if smelled in projection, this stuff is killer. So unique. That's why I personally believe a paper strip test doesn't give justice to the composition.
In the end, I've to say that with or without the P, this is a top quality fragrance. Both the two versions are well worth experiencing if you're into original fragrances. Again, unique without being odd.
I finally gave this a full wearing today. While I'm grateful for all the attention that Mr. O'Driu put into this...
This is a very mediocre scent that still manages to suffer most of what I didn't enjoy about the rest of the line. There seems to be some sour, musty O'Driade that's endemic to the line and all natural scents all too frequently. The top notes have this sweet oriental note ( fruitcake was my initial thought ) with a bit of a tarry camphoraceous quality like Lonestar Memories. Then it dries down to a sort of sour labdanum floriental with musk, kind of a hint of carnation and jasmine floating through.
It wasn't awful but I can't I'm impressed. Sorry.![]()
other interesting threads on Secraction:
http://www.basenotes.net/threads/318...rsation-(NSFW)
http://www.basenotes.net/threads/317...Driù-fragrance
Well, now having worn both the original and augmented versions side by side, one on each arm I think I can make some comparisons...
The original version started on skin with much more of the O'driù trademark herbs (albeit considerably tamped down from earlier releases from the house). The augmented version for me went almost immediately to the more animalic (think real castoreum and musk) aspects of the scent, with a beautiful rose note coming out a lot stronger than it did with the original later on. The original then plays a bit of catch-up with the animalics and rose (although not as strong), while in the dry-down a very nice vanilla joins the now dominant castoreum and musk tandem, with a still faint rose in the background. On the augmented version, I get much less of the vanilla and rose in the dry-down, and more of the animalics. Projection on both versions is excellent, with longevity of the regular outlasting the augmented by a couple hours, lasting about 7-8 hours (average) on the regular, and 5-6 hours on the augmented (below average).
Final conclusions... In either form, the scent is a definite winner from O'driù. It is extremely wearable in either form, but if I had to choose, I think I have a slight preference for it in the regular form, as I get more of the spice, slightly less animalics and higher longevity. That is a bit better fit for my preferences. It is highly recommended in either form.
Current Top Favorites:
1) Portrait of a Lady original formula (EdP Frédéric Malle)
2) Giorgio for Men vintage/V.I.P. for Men (Giorgio Beverly Hills)
3) Dia Man vintage edt (Amouage)
4) Anat Fritz Original Formula and Classical (Anat Fritz) - tie
4) Lalfeorosa (O'driù) - tie
6) Les Nombres d'Or Vetyver (Mona di Orio)
7) Captain vintage (Molyneux)
8) Tzora (Anat Fritz)
9) Javanese Patchouli (Zegna) - tie
9) Monsieur de Givenchy vintage (Givenchy) - tie
9) Coeur de Vetiver Sacré (L'Artisan) - tie
9) Polo vintage (Ralph Lauren) - tie
9) Patou pour Homme Privé (Jean Patou) - tie
9) Oud Shamash (The Different Company) - tie
Well, I got my sample pack today and I couldn't wait to wear the fragrance, and I tell you this, it is really beautiful. I am surprised by it. It is a soft, sensuous floral oriental. Contemporary with a classical richness.
First impressions; peppery floral aromatic (rose, a little geranium, amongst others) on a soft dry and rich slightly spicy balsamic vanilla base. It has an intimacy about it. I think that it is the most "feminine" of Mr Pregoni's fragrances so far which does not mean that it won't be great on guys. It will be. Very intriguing on a man I think.
This is not O'Driu. It has a different sensibility altogether, although it may have shadows of Lalfeorosa and Laurhum.
Much more to be said in good time.
Meantime I hope that you all have a wonderful holiday season.
Edit 19:20
I just put a little on my partner. He likes a nice fragrance but he's not a fanatic. He liked it straight away. He says that he doesn't find it all feminine. He finds it unisex and he thinks that it is great! Interesting hmm?
Oh, and it has a beautiful amber drydown. I am really loving this!
Last edited by Foustie; 20th December 2012 at 06:29 PM.
OK friends, a little review.
As always with fragrances by Angelo Orazio Pregoni, we each seem to be homing in on different facets of the fragrance, but that is fine, isn't it? These are my impressions, and as always with these shape shifters, these are but only impressions.....
Secraction. Luxurious and Intimate.
The immediate impression is difficult to describe actually. There are no sharp, clear top notes. Instead, the opening is more of an introduction to the fragrance. It is inviting, intriguing. There are some low key herbs, thyme perhaps, there is a fruit note, lovely actually, orange perhaps or more likely mandarin. There is a floaty, woody accord almost from the beginning, along with a peppery accord which suggests just a hint of peppery frankincense. This all rests on a cloudy, cushiony vanilla which is present from the start.
It is interesting to me that when I wear this fragrance the next phase is a lovely rose. An otherworldly rose, which seems just right somehow. Others comment on the jasmine, which I am not aware of. This rose is joined by subtle aromatics; geranium, and mint. The first time I noticed this on paper but not on skin. But since then, even on skin, I find a pleasing suggestion of minty geranuim coming forward a good while into the development. The fragrance is very cool on paper at this stage, but warmer on skin. Then a little warm spice, cinnamon and clove and for a moment there is a carnation floating around.
I don't find this fragrance to be animalic. Quite a good way into the development I think that there is a little cumin which does seem to have the effect of linking it to skin, you know, almost providing a bridge to warm skin, a suggestion, but to me it is very subtle.
The long development is a really gorgeous amber and vanilla, quite dry, very soft, suggesting notes of tobacco, benzoin, tonka, labdanum, vanilla, faintly reminiscent at times of the tone of Amber 114. It is very long lasting and very enjoyable. I am always aware of it when I am wearing it.
Secraction is not O'Driu. The Secraction bottle suggests something angular and hard faceted to me. It isn't that either. Quite the contrary. Secraction is closer to a classical oriental. There is something of the boudoir about it. There is a suggestion of silk underwear on perfumed skin. Either a mans or a womans. It is a lovely fragrance. One of the most approachable of Mr Pregoni's so far I think. I for one am really looking foward to it's release so that we can see what people make of it.
Foustie, that is a TERRIFIC review. I loved how many facets you got. I still get something animalic out of it but the suggestion of the herbs-spices combo working as a link bewteen the fragrance and skin make a whole lotta sense![]()
Very intrigued by this fragrance, and i'm eager to try it!!
Well it seems that Secraction might just turn out to be the (non-O'Driu) O'Driu scent for me. (Especially with it's toned-down O'Driuade herbals.) AND being an amber luvr it'll tip it right over the edge for me I imagine. - (Ambre 114 if one of my fave ambers {my 'geraniamber' !?})...
And whilst I luv the idea of a crystal bottle (tho I must say my immediate thought was of a quartz-crystal 'crystal' - brought on by some quality in an above pic. - Tho' I imagine that would be impossibly-exorbitantly priced if so. & mores the pity, as that would certainly lend it much gravitas !) ... And I even like the idea of the use of bakelite ... HOWEVER I must admit that the actual bottle design (& font combo) does absolutely NOTHING for me. I think it looks not only overtly-pretentious & 'trying-to-hard-quirky', BUT even far worse > like it belongs in an cheap tacky 1980's memphis hair salon (probably holding a leave-in-conditioner/hairspray combo.)> SORRY ! ... > ...(Hopefully it will be more impressive once realised !??)
But like I said I'll probably much prefer this actual frag to the actual O'Drius, which so far whilst infinitely intriguing, are just plain unwearable for me unfortunately. (Tho' granted I've not yet tried all of them !)
ALSO ... in theory I'm also kinda a little disappointed he, like everyone else, couldn't help using 'enticer-of-the-masses' VANILLA - I expected a little more 'originality' from a Pregoni 'commercial' frag quite frankly. ... >
Tho of course will reserve actual judgement for when smelling the actual jus !
As for the 'P-modifier' - I'll only comment/evaluate once I confirm first-hand what significant effect it actually has, & the individuality it "should?" impart, to the actual fume ?? > (At the mo', kinda half-torn between 'CLAP' or 'YAWN' quite frankly.) - Tho' if it actually works, which I'm sure it probably would/does > it's certainly intriguing. & I mean certainly no worse than whale/beaver/dassi skank after all.![]()
Last edited by Sybarite; 25th January 2013 at 09:34 AM.
PEETY: more than a perfume, a little contemporary art work…
Thanks to everybody!
Received my bottle last week (yet another blind buy!). First impressions? Mixed, I'm a little underwhelmed if I'm being honest, I'm not quite sure what I was expecting, but it's a little polite and generic for my liking. The opening reminds me quite a lot of the opening of Musc Ravaguer, as they both share facets, such as the icy fruit/musk clove opening.
Haven't decided if I'm going to piss in it yet, tempted though!![]()