SECRACTION: A Secret Perfume by Angelo Orazio Pregoni (O'Driù)

[alfarom]

During a recent chat with Mr.Pregoni, he introduced me to a new "mysterious" project which has been in the making for the last three years. A new fragrance combining most of the house's hallmarks with 3% of synthetic notes. This is quite revolutionary for a perfumer that made of 100% natural ingredients, his main signature.

"A secret perfume", this is how I'll call it now, takes its inspiration from a bunch of the most successful releases by O'Driù (Linfedele, Laurhum, Lafro and Lalfeorosa) and pairs the main accords of the aforementioned fragrances to synthetic notes. For the first time, the fragrance will not be released in limited batches and will be available worldwide.

"A Secret Perfume" will be launched in early/mid 2013.




For further informations on O'Driù, check out our previous thread here

[sarıpatates]

I wonder what the synthetics are, as there are SO many super useful synthetics.

[drseid]

Can't wait, personally...

[alfarom]

I wonder what the synthetics are, as there are SO many super useful synthetics.

That's my main curiosity as well. He talks about notes that change depending on the wearer...maybe some musks?

[MonkeyBars]

Great photo, where did that come from?

The thought of the mysterious Signore Pregoni incorporating synthetics is very exciting. I imagine his take would be very unique and I for one look very much forward to trying it.

[alfarom]

Great photo, where did that come from?

Google does miracles LOL

[sarıpatates]

That's my main curiosity as well. He talks about notes that change depending on the wearer...may some musks?

musk are the most obvious choice. there are some natural alternatives to it though to some extent, like costus and ambrette. woody ambers, aldehydes and various modifiers could also be useful. Top note pleasant-ification , projection and longevity would be most obvious results he's after, as this will be available worldwide.

[Trebor]

Sounds very intriguing. Many thanks for the heads-up!

[alfarom]

musk are the most obvious choice. there are some natural alternatives to it though to some extent, like costus and ambrette. woody ambers, aldehydes and various modifiers could also be useful. Top note pleasant-ification , projection and longevity would be most obvious results he's after, as this will be available worldwide.

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I was re-reading my e-mail and, as long as I get it right, it looks like he's up for a "how I do it" version of the Molecules series by Escentric Molecules but with 97% of natural ingredients and 3% of synthetics....

[forfreddie]

Yup! I'm intrigued

[trex57]

Im definitely curious. Should be quite interesting.

Rex

[alfarom]

Sketches on the packaging....

[MonkeyBars]

Woah! Neat. That's what's on the box?!

[Foustie]

This sketch is fascinating. I am going to guess that one of the things that he is going to do is put some "air" into the composition by use of synthetics? I love this direction! I can't wait for this.

[alfarom]

MB, those are sketches, projects and ideas on how the bottle/composition should look lile...

here are a bunch of notes from the pyramid: Vanille, Patchouly, Rose, Jasmine, Poivre rose, Santal, Tabac + 1

[Diamondflame]

rose, patchouly, santal, tabac...? I like it already.

[MonkeyBars]

MB, those are sketches, projects and ideas on how the bottle/composition should look lile...

here are a bunch of notes from the pyramid: Vanille, Patchouly, Rose, Jasmine, Poivre rose, Santal, Tabac + 1

Woah sounds very different from his other compositions

[PalmBeach]

You mean no Hangman on the packaging. Now I am dissapointed.

[sarıpatates]

my my, the note pyramid is seems incredibly mainstream/classic. Which might be good though...

[alfarom]

my my, the note pyramid is seems incredibly mainstream/classic. Which might be good though...

Thw whole composition is supposed to include 13 ingredients. The ones listed above are just part of them...I'm sure there's something crucial we're still missing...

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You mean no Hangman on the packaging. Now I am dissapointed.

LOL

[alfarom]

All the notes revealed (except one)

Vanille, Mousse arbre, Tonka, Jasmine, Rose, Orange douce, Mandarine, Cannelier feuilles, Tabac, Castoreum, Amber gris, Santal, Poivre rose.

[Foustie]

Hmmm. A dry aromatic soft balsamic floral? OR NOT!! Who knows? It is alll very exciting though.

Meantime check this out if you haven't already http://www.odriu.com/ecommerce/store.aspx. You'll notice that the Linfidele 1003 is sold out...... for ever. I'm so relieved that I got mine in time!

[trex57]

Its sounds kind of interesting to me. I wonder what the role of the citrus and rose play(major or minor notes) in the fragrance?

[alfarom]

You'll notice that the Linfidele 1003 is sold out...... for ever. I'm so relieved that I got mine in time!

Definitely one of my favorites together with Lalfeogrigio and Lalfeorosa (both sold out as well)

[MonkeyBars]

Meantime check this out if you haven't already http://www.odriu.com/ecommerce/store.aspx. You'll notice that the Linfidele 1003 is sold out...... for ever. I'm so relieved that I got mine in time!

NOoooooooooOOOOOooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! grrrr

[Darvant]

I'm looking forward, for the moment i absolutely adore the following: Vis et Honor, L'Infedele 1004, Laurhum, Lalfeogrigio, Laltrove 1001, Linfedele Haiku and JMT. I own furthermore an Xvert's sample but i have to test it yet.

[Foustie]

I'm looking forward, for the moment i absolutely adore the following: Vis et Honor, L'Infedele 1004, Laurhum, Lalfeogrigio, Laltrove 1001, Linfedele Haiku and JMT. I own furthermore an Xvert's sample but i have to test it yet.

Hi Darvant. Yes, we are all looking forward to this. Lets see.....

[Darvant]

Hi sweet Foustie, spend a nice day in your wonderful Scotland.

[Foustie]

Hi sweet Foustie, spend a nice day in your wonderful Scotland.

[sarıpatates]

I hope laltrove 1001 goes out of stock soon :P

[Foustie]

I hope laltrove 1001 goes out of stock soon :P

Nah! There is still one with your name on it.

[alfarom]

Nah! There is still one with your name on it.

lol!

[alfarom]

I finally received the "Avantgarde Fetish Perfume" teaser sample (previously known as "A Secret Perfume") and, as usual the packaging is stunning!







I also started testing the fragrance and, right now, I'm leaning towards considering AFP, by far, the best fragrance by Pregoni. This is glorious!!!

The usual lemongrass-dark herbal-vanillish combo of O'Driù is joined by a "bearish" smell. Smells like a bear ... the opening is not as brutal as other previous Pregoni's fragrances. There's some Laurhum in it, some Lalfeogrigio and, yes, even some Leva but somwhat, smells different from any other O'Driù I experienced so far. It's like O'Driù remixed. The main hallmarks are there but they're assembled to result completely different from the original...

The remarkable animalic presence is not disturbing at all. It's a combination between amber gris and castoreum to my nose even if I initially thought it was civet (hence the opening's bearish smell). It provides great warmness and depth and it's joined by rose, woods galore and a moderately sweet vanilla/tonka/cinnamon combo. There's an overall dryness provided by pepper and woods but the composition never walks the line of harshness. In fact, it's smooth and extremely refined while mantaining an overall assertive character.

There's nothing challenging about this fragrance if not the first couple of minutes of animalic-spicy blast. Composition-wise, I find it excellent and, honestly, I've never smelled something like it. There's a funny aspect going on during the evolution: The fragrance opens with a blast to soon settle down to a moderately powerful middle phase. When you're ready to think it's almost gone, it surprises you by starting to tremendously radiate. This final phase (which is the best part of the whole fragrace) goes on and on and on for several hours. The magic of synthetics

Please, don't take this as my review. These are just my random thoughts after my first skin test. As usual with O'Driù, AFP is extremely complex and needs several wearing to be fully understood but, so far, this is a big winner in my book! THIS IS THE ULTIMATE O'DRIU'!

[hobbes22]

Alfarom, thank you for sharing!

Consider me very intrigued... Any idea when this will be available for sampling/ordering?

[drseid]

I finally received the "Avantgarde Fetish Perfume" teaser sample (previously known as "A Secret Perfume") and, as usual the packaging is stunning!


I also started testing the fragrance and, right now, I'm leaning towards considering AFP, by far, the best fragrance by Pregoni. This is glorious!!!

Please, don't take this as my review. These are just my random thoughts after my first skin test. As usual with O'Driù, AFP is extremely complex and needs several wearing to be fully understood but, so far, this is a big winner in my book! THIS IS THE ULTIMATE O'DRIU'!

The notes sound extremely promising, although I have never smelled a bear up close (and don't care to try)... ;-) I definitely look forward to trying this one out... If it turns out to indeed be Mr. Pregoni's best work to date then that is saying something, as he has already been on quite a roll with his other extremely strong releases.

[alfarom]

The notes sound extremely promising, although I have never smelled a bear up close (and don't care to try)... ;-) I definitely look forward to trying this one out...

LOL! The "bear" analogy is to be taken very figuratively! LOL Bearish in the meaning of something wild, scary and, at the same time, beatiful and not of something skanky, poo-like and malodorous The animalics elements of AFP are all about warmness and depth and not dirtiness.

Yes, IMO, this is the most satisfying O'Driù to date and I know it's saying quite something. There's something in its drydown that is completely magic. I'm antious for you to get this Drseid!

Hobbes, the fragrance should be launched sometime during 2013. I'm not sure yet when samples will be available but I guess it won't take long.

[d4N13L]

That large decanter with funnel, atomiser, pipette and all is just the sample????

[trex57]

Thanks Alfarom for your initial review. This sounds like another winner for sure. I can't wait to get my hands on it.

[MonkeyBars]

I get that bearish vibe from Yatagan too -- it's a super furry wildness that usually comes from lots of castoreum. The rose and vanilla have me feeling a bit skeptical. But sometimes with me it's just a matter of making juice animalic enough for me to dig, especially with some herbs and wood to dry things out. (Lavender and vanilla? Caron puH? Ew! Jicky? Love it.)

Thanks so much for your thoughts Alfa. Sounds like Sgn. Pregoni has once again stepped up his game.

[alfarom]

I get that bearish vibe from Yatagan too -- it's a super furry wildness that usually comes from lots of castoreum. The rose and vanilla have me feeling a bit skeptical. But sometimes with me it's just a matter of making juice animalic enough for me to dig, especially with some herbs and wood to dry things out. (Lavender and vanilla? Caron puH? Ew! Jicky? Love it.)

Thanks so much for your thoughts Alfa. Sounds like Sgn. Pregoni has once again stepped up his game.

The opening might lead me to think it's a no-go for you but try to get past it. It takes very little for this stuff to open and bloom into something drier, extremely deep, almost vertigo inducing...

[PalmBeach]

Thanks for the quick update. Looking forward to hearing your full review.

Once question, you mentioned available worldwide in your initial post. Will it only be sold off their website or will it be available from other places.

[thebeck]

I'm really looking forward to this one. I have a spot reserved on my shelf for my first O'drui if its as good as alfarom says it is. alfarom has great taste, so I'm excited.

[Trebor]

My sample arrived today. Many thanks, alfarom, for arranging that.

I've only had it on my arm for less than an hour, so I'm not going to go into too much detail but I pretty much agree with alfarom's initial impressions. I only applied a solitary drop but it's pretty potent, though not overwhelmingly so. It's smooth, seamlessly blended and there aren't any green accords within the vicinity.

I'm sure many of you are still curious about its aroma, so I will sum it up by saying this: if you love/like Musc Ravageur, you will appreciate this as well. However, it's slightly darker, less sweet and more 'accomplished' than Malle's creation.

Do I like it? Yes.

Would I buy a bottle? I'm not sure but, at the moment, it's a definite possibility.

[trex57]

My sample arrived today. Many thanks, alfarom, for arranging that.

I've only had it on my arm for less than an hour, so I'm not going to go into too much detail but I pretty much agree with alfarom's initial impressions. I only applied a solitary drop but it's pretty potent, though not overwhelmingly so. It's smooth, seamlessly blended and there aren't any green accords within the vicinity.

I'm sure many of you are still curious about its aroma, so I will sum it up by saying this: if you love/like Musc Ravageur, you will appreciate this as well. However, it's slightly darker, less sweet and more 'accomplished' than Malle's creation.

Do I like it? Yes.

Would I buy a bottle? I'm not sure but, at the moment, it's a definite possibility.

Like MR but darker and less sweet. More "accomplished" I'm tingling(drooling) in anticipation. This sounds really, really good.

[Gamma]

I'm curious as to why the description and instructions on the paper with the sketches and yellow circle haven't been mentioned. Did those of you who have tested it do what it says..?

[Darvant]

I'm starting to study and examinating this ultimate gem and have to say that the new experiment leans much on the more modern Leva side than on the one of my "ancient" absolute favorite Vis et Honor (or of the second love of mine Laltrove 1001). Bearish for sure but less mouldy and ancient than the O'Driu' heavyweights in my opinion. On a first approach i detect hints of orangy/ cinnamon (may be ylang- ylang), faint patterns of aromatic herbs, an interaction of saffron, may be cumin and laurel over a woody/vanillic (minimal hints of coffee??) smooth base mastered by a well modulated smokey and animalic (forgive me, also "peessy") presence re- calling more properly a fur/castoreum combo than effectively the civet itself. The orangy vibe is notable and the more the juice discloses its wings the more i catch the peppery presence. The floral patterns are not easy to identify for the moment but frankly i detect more jasmine, neroli and exotic floral elements than rose (for the moment but is possible that my humble nose fails or catchs new impressions later). Possibly i'm not on the right way of the olfactory perception and in this case hope to discover the real identity of nuances and facets in the upcoming days. The juice is brown/dark and warm but not surupy for sure. Just that for the moment my friends, i have the Avantgarde Fetish Perfume on the skin since a too short time to be barely close to the real thing.

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I have to say that the dry down tends to become decidedly smooth, delightful, slightly ambery/woody, highly sophisticated by spices and fruity/floral and barely leathery notes. In this phase the fragrance smells like a more civilized and modern olfactory potion but is still plain that sort of cloud of shadowy edible spices, dust and smoke. A more purified sort of l'Air du desert Marocain jumps vaguely to mind.

[alfarom]

I didn't catch the Musc Ravageur vibe and while the comparison still makes a lot of sense to me, after the initial sweetish blast, the fragrance gets a lot more drier in the middle-phase drydown. Leva it's definitely there but only during the few minutes of the opening (at least in my experience). I agree Darvant, there's a LADDM vibe going on somewhere as well as a musky-woody-peppery accord that, somewhat, reminded me of both Monegal's Agar Musk and Memo Shams...but it's just a hint.

Anyway, I'll give it more full wearings in the next few days and will surely keep in mind your pretious thoughts Darvant and Trebor.

[trex57]

I did receive the parcel today. The presentation is first rate, of course. I will admit Im lousy at reviews but this seems like its going to be a winner. Ive put just a drop on the top of my hand 5 hrs ago and its still very present. I agree that the opening is somewhat like Musc Ravageur without any sweetness.

At 5 hours(or so) an amber presence makes itself known. This is really nice.

One common thing Ive noticed about the scents Ive tried from Mr Pregoni is just how "fresh" they are. They give me the impression they were justed mixed and poured for you.

It'll get the full day treatment tomorrow for sure. Ill have more once I give it a full wearing.

Thank you Alfarom for your assistance.


Regards Rex

[alfarom]

I don't understand why I don't receive notifications when someone posts in this thread....ARGH!

[PalmBeach]

I don't understand why I don't receive notifications when someone posts in this thread....ARGH!

It's must be a conspiracy.

BTW, how does one get samples of the secret perfume, or is it a secret?

[MonkeyBars]

I'm curious as to why the description and instructions on the paper with the sketches and yellow circle haven't been mentioned. Did those of you who have tested it do what it says..?

I just received my package and finally READ what is on that gorgeous "instruction manual" . . . and laughed my ass off for two minutes straight. This truly is fragrance ART -- the real intersection. Forget that cheeseball Chandler and his paltry gestures as a so-called "curator," ripping the labels off whatever commercial juice he likes and sticking bottles in a museum. This is the REAL DEAL people. Anyone else claiming to be avant-garde just got ONE-UPPED.

I hadn't bothered to read the copy in the photograph above. If you haven't, I suggest you do, if you want to learn what the "Secret" behind the concept of this fragrance is. Hilariously appropriate color scheme and letter emphasis.

Pregoni is actually doing what other perfumers claim to do. I wish him a long career -- he will be seen as a true maverick in the perfume history books.

In fact, I now declare that O'Driu's latest is the first postmodern perfume.

I guess I'll have to "drink the koolaid" and actually give this experience a shot. You only live once. To be continued . . . ahhhhh that's better. What a relief, to have a perfumer in the world of this conceptual caliber.

[drseid]

I received my sample yesterday and gave it an initial go on skin last night (sans the secret ingredient). I have no idea if adding the "secret ingredient" really improves the composition or it was just meant to be provocative copy, but the fragrance without it is very complete despite its absence, IMO.

The trademark O'driu culinary herb combo found in most of the other O'driu releases is definitely here right at the open and well into the heart notes, but they are toned down substantially below the already lowered level used in another one of O'driu's more recent releases, Linfedele Haiku. I am beginning to see a trend here but with that said, this release is certainly not sanitized and I would bet there is a good deal of real castoreum in it as well, as I get a nice animallic vibe early-on, without it going overboard or becoming distracting. Probably the best surprise for me was the extremely well-done rose note similar to the brilliant one found in my favorite O'driu composition Lalfeorosa appearing in the early heart that never overpowers the herbs and animallic aspects, but blends in perfect harmony with the other notes through the scent's development giving the composition superb balance without losing its complexity. Projection is really excellent, but longevity despite the use of its small amount of synthetics, just about average (6-8 hours on my skin).

I am still getting a full feel for the composition (especially the later parts) so these are just initial impressions, but I find the composition on the whole extremely wearable and highly accomplished, melding my favorite aspects of all the prior releases into one. Not too shabby indeed! So while the "secret ingredient" might have gotten folks to take notice, IMO it is the vision and amazing technical skill of Pregoni who is at the top of his already strong game here that has highly impressed me with this one and I look forward to being able to purchase it next year... I could definitely see this becoming my new favorite from the house. Great stuff indeed.

[Trebor]

Forget that cheeseball Chandler and his paltry attempts to raise commercial products to the lofty realm of art.

Quote of the month.

[trex57]

Is this a prototype for a new EPT? or EDP

[alfarom]

a 3D rendering of the actual commercial bottle of SECRACTION

[thebeck]

a 3D rendering of the actual commercial bottle of SECRACTION

Love it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[MonkeyBars]

His bottles are the best . . . hands-down

[laph]

Alfa - thank you soo much for arranging this.

I'm still digesting this so I won't comment too much yet but I do understand the references to MR and LADDM. There is the strong herbal kick of other O'Driu fragrances + cinnamon too. Very nice.

[alfarom]

front side 3D rendering....



Laph, I understand both the receferencies as well (MR for the cinnamon-musky vibe and MR for the balmy aspect) but I still preceive the overall vibe of this fragrance as strikingly different from either. It has an extra kick to it that's almost subliminal in this case yet extremely striking, the O'Driù signature.

[Foustie]

Fabulous design. The name? Secret....secretion....action....attraction, secret action?

I think that Mr Pregoni's creative mood is getting darker.