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  1. #1

    Cool Why Top Notes Don't Matter: A Re-Appraisal of Joop! Homme

    I'm going to say something which, may possibly draw criticism, or might, taken properly provide a much needed re-appraisal of some truly vilified fragrances. TOP NOTES DO NOT MATTER...except for sales that is

    Think about the act of wearing a fragrance, you get out the shower, spray some on before getting dressed, perhaps a spray on a t-shirt, by the time you get dressed get in your car and get to the club or to work you've already burned through the top notes, unless you live 5 minutes away from the club (sorry) or your job.

    I say this because I've gone back to wearing a single spray of Joop! to work. I've gotten two compliments and realized that while the initial blast is bloody room-clearing in its potency, I spend most of the day in its drydown, which is wonderful. There is nothing else I have in my collection which lasts as long as this.

    I realize too for fragrances with potent projection and sillage, a light application is all that's needed to get a full day of fragrance. Having to re-apply a fragrance is impractical and silly.

    Malcolm Gladwell identified something similar in his book Blink, where Pepsi did a Blind taste test against Coke, as it turns out, the first sip or top flavour of Pepsi was more popular, but people preferred to drink a whole coke. The executives of Coke disasterously misinterpreted this and decided to release New Coke, a commercial flop and scrap the classic formula. Many fragrances, I'm afraid, face the same fate.

    Topnotes are largely for sales purposes. Any other fragrances that don't have great top notes but have amazing drydown/projection/longevity? What are your thoughts?

  2. #2

    Default Re: Why Top Notes Don't Matter: A Re-Appraisal of Joop! Homme

    I personally like the interesting transition and development of a fragrance from beginning to end so at least for me, I find all notes appealing.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Why Top Notes Don't Matter: A Re-Appraisal of Joop! Homme

    Top notes do matter.

    Not being able to consider a fragrance wearable for the first hour is not good. It means I can't just spray it on right before I leave, but it means I need to either plan to spray it an hour before I leave or happen to leave by coincidence a bit later.

    I found this to be a significant factor that determines my usage of a particular fragrance. I end up reaching for fragrances with better top notes, and often end up not reaching for a fragrance with a bad opening (even if it becomes the best thing ever in an hour).

  4. #4

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    Default Re: Why Top Notes Don't Matter: A Re-Appraisal of Joop! Homme

    I tend to agree with you, the heart and drydown are more important. though it's fun to have good top notes as well, as long as they are not the only good thing of the frag.

    The only exception are frags like the classic Eau de Cologne, which is intended to be used as a freshener for a brief but intense feel. In this case, top notes are everything and the drydown, if any, can only make matters worse.

    cacio

  5. #5

    Default Re: Why Top Notes Don't Matter: A Re-Appraisal of Joop! Homme

    I think it somewhat depends on the quality of the fragrance. I have some frags where the top notes/opening literally vanish within a minute or two...but, I have some others where the top notes not only linger for the first hour, but continue to remain part of the fragrance blend, therefore affecting the overall composition and smell, for several hours. So, yes, I do agree for many of the cheaper, highly commercial-driven fragrances, top notes won't factor in to the majority of the life of the fragrance, but with better designers and most niche frags, they are definitely an important part of the composition/blend.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Why Top Notes Don't Matter: A Re-Appraisal of Joop! Homme

    Bigsly might agree with you, or not, but he certainly doesn't like em.

    I disagree. Top notes blend into the rest of the fragrance and are often detectable for the whole first hour or even longer, especially on clothes. There are some frags where the top is a bit too much at first and it's best to let it dry down for a few minutes before going out in public. Lomani pH is one like that for me.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Why Top Notes Don't Matter: A Re-Appraisal of Joop! Homme

    I wonder what the marketing plan was for Versace when they created the top notes for The Dreamer?

  8. #8

    Default Re: Why Top Notes Don't Matter: A Re-Appraisal of Joop! Homme

    Riley: You see the Dreamer is another perfect example and victim of over-emphasis of topnotes. It's a wonderful fragrance, but only on the drydown, the top makes the average male go "omg wtf is this a women's perfume?" hence its discontinuation.

  9. #9

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    Default Re: Why Top Notes Don't Matter: A Re-Appraisal of Joop! Homme

    I disagree, I found CH 212 Men to have such offensive top notes, that I couldn't get myself to wear it even though I loved the middle/bottom notes.

    Also, I think the top notes can hold wonderful smells that you can't put elsewhere.
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  10. #10

    Default Re: Why Top Notes Don't Matter: A Re-Appraisal of Joop! Homme

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    I tend to agree with you, the heart and drydown are more important. though it's fun to have good top notes as well, as long as they are not the only good thing of the frag.
    My thoughts exactly. I like nice top notes, but it's the heart and the dry down that make a scent for me. Top notes are a nice bonus if they're great, and they can be a deal-breaker if they're particularly atrocious (Sorry, but, Versace Dreamer, I'm looking at you).
    "Follow your nose. It always knows." -- Toucan Sam

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    Default Re: Why Top Notes Don't Matter: A Re-Appraisal of Joop! Homme

    Just make sure you have the correct (older) formula of Joop! Homme, then you will have indeed a very good drydown!
    (see my review on Joop! Homme)
    My Top 10 : (In no particular order)

    - Dolce & Gabbana: Pour Homme (vintage)
    - Paco Rabanne: Pour Homme (vintage)
    - Loewe: Solo (Absoluto)
    - Chanel: Antaeus
    - Chanel: Ego´ste
    - MPG: Santal Noble
    - Guerlain: Vetiver
    - Amouage: Jubilation XXV
    - Dior: Homme Intense
    - YSL: Kouros (Fraicheur)

  12. #12

    Default Re: Why Top Notes Don't Matter: A Re-Appraisal of Joop! Homme

    Top notes do matter, but I agree that it's the drydown that makes the fragrance because that's what you'll likely be smelling the most of.

    Fragrances like Angel Men, Versace the Dreamer and even Dior Homme have somewhat questionable top notes to me, but their drydowns are all exceptional and are why I own a bottle of all three.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Why Top Notes Don't Matter: A Re-Appraisal of Joop! Homme

    Angel Men, Versace The Dreamer, Musc Ravageur. All fragrances which start off badly and develop heavenly. They don't really matter.
    The sense of smell, like a faithful counsellor, foretells its character.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Why Top Notes Don't Matter: A Re-Appraisal of Joop! Homme

    They are mainly for impulse buyers and sales. Having said that, I really enjoy some of them while they last. There are always 'linear' fragrances also -- 70% of Diptyque fragrances smell the same at the top as they do at the bottom.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Why Top Notes Don't Matter: A Re-Appraisal of Joop! Homme

    While I do think that top notes play an important role I have to agree that the dry down makes or breaks a fragrance. Plus I love Joop.

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