Code of Conduct
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 30 of 51
  1. #1
    Dependent ericrico's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    California
    Posts
    1,138

    Default Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    Hello fellow Basenoters -

    I wanted to ask a general question. I decided not to take a poll, although it might make sense. But, I would rather hear what you had to say.

    Understanding that a good amount of fragrances, nowadays (and for decades) have used synthetic civet (civetone) - but actual civet exists in some compositions. We can leave that argument or perspective aside, as I am more curious about what Basenoters think of the actual note and its place in fragrance today.

    Just curious to hear what people think - relating this to Kouros, Givenchy Gentleman, Chanel No.5, Chanel Coco, and countless other scents.

    Cheers.

    ericrico
    Last edited by ericrico; 21st November 2012 at 12:05 AM.
    “Some perfumes are as fragrant as an infant’s flesh, sweet as an oboe’s cry, and greener than the spring; While others are triumphant, decadent or rich; Having the expansion of infinite things, like ambergris and musk, benzoin and frankincense, which sing the transports of the mind and every sense.”

    ― Charles Baudelaire, The Flowers of Evil & Paris Spleen

  2. #2
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Liverpool
    Posts
    315

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    I think civet is a wonderful note, and a number of my favourite fragrances have it - and my wife likes them on me (but we're both mid-50s, whatever that tells you).
    Alan

  3. #3

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    One of my absolute favourite notes.
    Sadly, less favoured in perfumery today than in decades past. Classics such as Joy and No.5 which once contained generous doses are much the worse for its effective removal. Even Jicky is a shadow of its former self.
    Really too bad.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    I would say yes as it is hardly used today as it was in the past. Done right it can add that dark muskyness to a scent and smell nice though if not can be horrid. In Givenchy Gentleman there is just a little bit in the basenotes and it smells good and adds overall to the scent. But in Czech & Speakes Citrus Paradisi its truly horrid mixed in with the citrus, a truly imo horrid fragrance.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hunter View Post
    I would say yes as it is hardly used today as it was in the past. Done right it can add that dark muskyness to a scent and smell nice though if not can be horrid... But in Czech & Speakes Citrus Paradisi its truly horrid mixed in with the citrus, a truly imo horrid fragrance.
    I agree with this. Some of the currently available civety ones are 'too much' and everyone has their own threshold. I love MdM but can't stand Rochas 'I wet myself' Moustache, for example.

    I wish it were used more though as it helps to make a fragrance more interesting, done right. There are so many boring gutless smell-alikes out there.

    Yes civet is regarded as dated, since the 'pure clean' drive of the 90s; soapy is the new sexy! Does this go hand-in-hand with the Bieber/infantilising of sexuality? I wonder...

    I suspect the younger members who are attracted most to lollipop scents and clean laundry scents would like civet least. I'm generalising of course.

    I think the oud craze amongst perfumistas may be a response to the current sterility. An acceptable skank.

    /ramble

  6. #6

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    It's certainly not used in the same amounts anymore. Perfume is now more 'overground'; nearly everyone has a bottle these days- and the general public are probably as unlikely to appreciate it as a Penderecki atonal symphony. I personally think the synthesised version of civet can smell a bit 'blunt' on occasions

  7. #7
    Basenotes Plus
    senore01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    NEW YORK CITY
    Posts
    3,866
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    I'm wondering if that it why I have always loved Givenchy Gentlemen. I have always had a bottle of this one and received many compliments.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    My limit is 0. So sorry, I can't stand any scent with recognizable civet.

  9. #9
    Sound Scents
    drseid's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Northern VA/DC Area
    Posts
    7,596

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    Along with cumin and fenugreek, it is my least favorite note... That said, when used sparingly in the base notes like in vintage Givenchy Gentleman and Monsieur de Givenchy it can work quite well in a fragrance. The key words are "used sparingly". As for it being relevant to use today? If implemented in the same judicious manner as those two greats, why not?
    Current Top Favorites:
    1) Portrait of a Lady original formula (EdP Frédéric Malle)
    2) Giorgio for Men vintage/V.I.P. for Men (Giorgio Beverly Hills)
    3) Dia Man vintage edt (Amouage)
    4)
    Anat Fritz Original Formula and Classical (Anat Fritz) - tie
    4) Lalfeorosa (O'driù) - tie

    6)
    Les Nombres d'Or Vetyver (Mona di Orio)
    7) Captain vintage (Molyneux)
    8) Tzora (Anat Fritz)
    9) Javanese Patchouli (Zegna) - tie
    9) Monsieur de Givenchy vintage (Givenchy) - tie
    9) Coeur de Vetiver Sacré (L'Artisan) - tie
    9) X for Men (Clive Christian) - tie
    9) Patou pour Homme Privé (Jean Patou) - tie
    9) Oud Shamash (The Different Company) - tie

  10. #10

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    Not necessarily, in Mouchoir de Monsieur for instance, it manages to remain improbably, yet pleasantly surprising trendy.
    Currently wearing: Lancetti Uomo by Lancetti

  11. #11

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    I love civet, I think it should be used much more in perfumery in generous amounts , I have Dior Leather Oud, where I find the civet the star of the show. I also procured this 5ml Indian temple attar, which uses real palm civet, jasmine,rose, sandalwood and clove, it is used from what I was told it is used for the worship of a specific hindu deity(don't know which one) , it literally is divine!

  12. #12
    Frag Bomb Squadron XIII
    Diamondflame's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    7,662

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    'Dated' only to noses more accustomed to bland mono-dimensional synthetic blends. Civet is seldom the star of the show but like a good stage manager you can't help notice when it's missing.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    Individual taste and micro-trends aside, I think civet (and other animalics) in scent, at least as a prominent player, suggests an intimacy from which human beings have generally been retreating.

    On a personal note, if someone gave me a bottle, say, of vintage Givenchy Gentleman I wouldn’t let it go to waste. But I wouldn’t purchase anything that I knew contained natural civet.
    Last edited by frug; 21st November 2012 at 03:04 AM.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    ^ Great observation. We are not shiny androids.

    Also, I don't think any one note itself can be dated. The note is used mainly in perfumes from an earlier era, but styles and tastes change. Our culture (western culture, anyway) seems very perfectionist, very corporate. Individual expression and art is becoming digital. No muck. I'm sure this will change, and civet, like orientals and tobacco recently, will see a comeback in perfumes.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  15. #15
    hednic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    McLean, NYC, & Búzios
    Posts
    107,803

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    IMO it is not.

  16. #16
    Dependent fragranceman88's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Dundee, Scotland
    Posts
    2,157

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    It's a note that most people nowadays don't like, to "unclean" in some peoples eyes. But people who appreciate scents I.e us still love it

  17. #17

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    ...I would not say so: it is prominent present in many very popular scents...!
    Currently wearing: Kenzoair by Kenzo

  18. #18

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    Yes definitely. I know it's par of fragrance history but it is definitely dated

  19. #19
    Dependent ericrico's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    California
    Posts
    1,138

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    I really appreciate the responses, so far, fellow Basenoters. I opened the thread after a long and intense wearing of Vintage Kouros earlier in the week and then a beautiful, full wearing of Vintage Givenchy Gentleman last night (as I shaved for the first time since November 1st - over 15 days of beard for "No-Shave November" that I had to break due to short-notice plans to visit family came up. I didn't want to look like I lost a bet. ;-)

    I splashed on Vintage Givenchy Gentleman After Shave and layered with Vintage GG EdT. The gorgeous aroma filled the room and my wife loved it. I was in a special "place" on a cold, rainy night...that was, in essence, a "metaphorical gallery of olfactory art wearing a classic piece from 1974." It was so transcendent. I felt like Monsieur Hubert de Givenchy's brother, James Taffin, who lived in cold, rainy and dreary London with an aroma that warms the soul. I thoroughly enjoyed the civet, deep patchouli, rich spices, smooth honey and the rose that peaks through the "tule fog" of masculine smokiness. Sensational. But, I pondered the thought. Is this scent dated because of the civet (in Vintage Givenchy Gentleman)? Because, current formulation amplifies the deep, dark patchouli and increases the leather. It is almost totally void of civet. I know it well. But, I smelled it from the nozzle to compare (once more) and put it back away. Vintage only, for last night...I didn't feel it smelled dated, but most definitely "classic". And, to me, timeless. I recently turned 40 years old and have enjoyed civet in fragrances for more than two decades as Kouros was with me earlier in life. I have always enjoyed the animalic muskiness and wonderful powdery vibe it offers a composition. But, I fully agree, that it must be used in proportion. Givenchy Gentleman (Vintage) - it is used, in my opinion, to perfection. It is what makes Kouros the wonderful classic (and "masterpiece" to those who feel that way), that it is. Take out civet and you don't have either composition.

    I gave my wife earlier a gift - one we enjoyed together...a bottle of Givenchy Amarige. Ropion's nose created a symphony of beauty to our noses and minds, with the tuberose very present but the wonderful gardenia shining through. It was my late Mother's favorite note and she only wore gardenia scents. The gorgeous ylang-ylang, wonderful concoction of rich fruit with musk and light sandalwood in the base came together in harmony. No civet in this composition, but I wanted to mention this bottle to those who have not tried it. We loved it and shared in the notes together - both fragrances.

    It was a very sensual night with olfactory pleasure that was simply divine...

    Cheers,

    ericrico
    Last edited by ericrico; 20th November 2012 at 06:03 PM.
    “Some perfumes are as fragrant as an infant’s flesh, sweet as an oboe’s cry, and greener than the spring; While others are triumphant, decadent or rich; Having the expansion of infinite things, like ambergris and musk, benzoin and frankincense, which sing the transports of the mind and every sense.”

    ― Charles Baudelaire, The Flowers of Evil & Paris Spleen

  20. #20
    Basenotes Institution dougczar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    11,865

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    I believe it is a very dated note, and one of my least favorite notes in fragrances. One I now tend to avoid.
    Seasonal favorites:

    1. Xerjoff - Nio
    2. Creed - Aventus
    3. Tom Ford - Grey Vetiver
    4. The Different Company - De Bachmakov
    5. Dior - Homme Sport 2008
    6. Montale - Aoud Legacy
    7. Creed - Virgin Island Water
    8. by Kilian - Straight to Heaven
    9. Creed - Original Cologne
    10. Clive Christian - 1872 for Men

  21. #21
    Super Member huffeur's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    235

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    Quote Originally Posted by ericrico View Post

    It was a very sensual night with olfactory pleasure that was simply divine...

    Cheers,

    ericrico
    Beautifully written post.

  22. #22

    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Louisville, KY
    Posts
    2,494

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hunter View Post
    I would say yes as it is hardly used today as it was in the past. Done right it can add that dark muskyness to a scent and smell nice though if not can be horrid. In Givenchy Gentleman there is just a little bit in the basenotes and it smells good and adds overall to the scent. But in Czech & Speakes Citrus Paradisi its truly horrid mixed in with the citrus, a truly imo horrid fragrance.
    I enjoy civet very much. In fact, Citrus Paradisi is my favorite citrus fragrance on my partner.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    Two of my favorites wouldn't be the same without civet, Mazzolari Lui and Creed Orange Spice. It certainly adds that extra "kick" to them!
    Are you not entertained??? Is this not why you are here??

  24. #24

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    Civet is dated for the ones new to the perfume industry!
    Civet is one of the best "notes" that are true to perfumes!

  25. #25

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    Quote Originally Posted by etoile View Post
    Civet is dated for the ones new to the perfume industry!
    Civet is one of the best "notes" that are true to perfumes!
    +1
    Are you not entertained??? Is this not why you are here??

  26. #26
    Dependent comfortablynumbbg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    1,147

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    With the exception of Love By Kilian (and it's barely even a note in there, you can't even smell it) I've yet to find a frag that has civet in it that I like. I do think it's sort of outdated, and in some case down right repulsive

  27. #27

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    Great Thread with predictable responses on the whole, grown-ups get it and kids who have been bought up experiencing vanilla as the post 1990's fixative for "Men's Colognes" will run for the hills.

    Given prevailing market trends I think we will see less and less civet use, I imagine in most fragrances where it was a part of the composition it's been dialled down already.

    I enoyed your post, ericrico. Every now and then I have a revelatory experience with something 'of another time and place' and occasionally in circumstances where I can share it with someone who appreciates it - that is really the magic of this whole thing isn't it?

  28. #28

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    Romeo Gigli per Uomo (dating back at least ten years) gives me some civet without smelling particularly dated. It's actually quite unique smelling.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    Civet will become dated the day sex becomes passé.

  30. #30
    Dependent ericrico's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    California
    Posts
    1,138

    Default Re: Is civet a dated note in fragrance?

    Very intelligent post, my friend. I'm glad I posted this thread.

    You live up (fully) to your screenname...I knew there would be mixed responses. We can draw a line with those who like it and those who don't. Rather polarizing, actually. But that is expected. Actual real civet is rarely used anymore.

    An interesting post on Wikipedia that I read before and wanted to share: "Animal rights groups, such as the World Society for the Protection of Animals, express concern that harvesting musk is cruel to animals. Between these ethical concerns and the availability of synthetic substitutes, the practice of raising civets for musk is dying out. Chanel, maker of the popular perfume Chanel No. 5, claims that natural civet has been replaced with a synthetic substitute since 1998." Civetone is the chemical used in place of real civet, as I mention in my initial post.

    However, there are a lot of us who have Vintage bottles that contain real civet...often blended with musk. Those days are long past us...

    Finally - thank you for the comment on my post to you (and others). That truly is the magic of the whole realm of olfactory art!

    Cheers.

    ericrico

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    Great Thread with predictable responses on the whole, grown-ups get it and kids who have been bought up experiencing vanilla as the post 1990's fixative for "Men's Colognes" will run for the hills.

    Given prevailing market trends I think we will see less and less civet use, I imagine in most fragrances where it was a part of the composition it's been dialled down already.

    I enoyed your post, ericrico. Every now and then I have a revelatory experience with something 'of another time and place' and occasionally in circumstances where I can share it with someone who appreciates it - that is really the magic of this whole thing isn't it?
    “Some perfumes are as fragrant as an infant’s flesh, sweet as an oboe’s cry, and greener than the spring; While others are triumphant, decadent or rich; Having the expansion of infinite things, like ambergris and musk, benzoin and frankincense, which sing the transports of the mind and every sense.”

    ― Charles Baudelaire, The Flowers of Evil & Paris Spleen

Similar Threads

  1. Starter civet fragrances / training wheels civet ?
    By galwaygirl001 in forum Just Starting Out
    Replies: 23
    Last Post: 5th January 2013, 10:20 AM
  2. Beverly Hills Gale Hayman......CIVET, CIVET, CIVET !! Is this true ?
    By david in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 9th May 2012, 02:43 AM
  3. La Perla EDP = big civet note?
    By Olfacta in forum Female Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 30th September 2010, 02:51 PM
  4. "This fragrance is DATED!" WHERE and WHEN does it matter?
    By scentsitivity in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 28th January 2009, 09:42 PM
  5. Civet musk note
    By MrCoffee in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 11th April 2008, 06:27 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  



Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000