AEDES DE VENUSTAS shot me an email re Holiday/New Arrivals and the Lubins caught my eye.
Akkad is a luminous amber perfume, mystical but also sensual.
Delphine Thierry, who composed this creation, imagined an amber note that is both spicy and luminous. The opposite therefore of the dark, mystical ambers that bring to mind the smoke of frankincense in ancient temples. Akkad amber opens with an aromatic citrus head note of mandarin and bergamot, enhanced by Clary sage. Clary sage, also known as “the sacred herb”, is renowned for its euphoric, harmonising properties.
The heart unfolds in the rich, balmy, spicy notes of frankincense and styrax, evocative of the ancient east, cooled by elemi, a fresh, soothing herb, and intensified by cardamom.
The base with its two ambers of plant and animal origin centres on the woody richness of patchouli, sweetened with sensual vanilla.
Akkad "Luminous Amber": I am Sargon, powerful sovereign of Akkad, who was brought up by Aqqi, the gardener of the great marshes between the Tigris and the Euphrates. Essence of Akkad is a gift from the beautiful Ishtar, who loves and protects me. It contains all the most precious ointments from Punt, and also those from the islands of the great sea, and others from still further afield. This amber is the light that shines on my kingdom. It is my empire’s most precious treasure.
TOP NOTES: Mandarin and bergamot from Italy, clary sage
MIDDLE NOTES: Cardamom, elemi, frankincense, styrax
BASE NOTES: Amber, cistus-labdanum, vanilla, patchouli
OLFACTIVE GROUP: Oriental
PERFUMER: Delphine Thierry
Galaad is a fresh leather fragrance, an invitation on a journey, the scent of an elegant rider who travels the world, a cosmopolitan spirit who loves the shade of tall trees and the freshness of mountain streams. A fragrance that is protective and assertive, yet utterly refined, emanating a peaceful self-assurance.
A heart of myrrh is topped with spices that bring out refreshing head notes of cardamom sustained by aromatic notes of rosemary and cypress. The base of a cool leather accord mingles with Atlas cedarwood, Oud and blond tobacco.
Delphine Thierry, who created Galaad, invites us to a tranquil morning ride in the mountains of the Middle East, when the scents of myrrh bushes blend with cypress resins and the woody fragrance of cedars. The leather of saddle and gloves gently warm up in the first rays of sun, while the little Arab horse snorts amidst the morning dew that has settled on Judean balsam trees and on the vines climbing along the mountain slopes of G alaad.
The story of Galaad:
The land of Galaad was originally the land of Myrrh, which today lies in Jordan. From the earliest antiquity, this rich, mountainous region used myrrh to produce a balm called “balm of Galaad”, alleged to be a universal remedy. Caravans from Egypt came here to get supplies of cedar wood (from the famous cedars of Lebanon) and myrrh.
TOP NOTES: Cardamom, cypress, rosemary
MIDDLE NOTES: Myrrh, myrrh absolute, copahu balm, honey
BASE NOTES: Oud, cedarwood, cipriol, tobacco
OLFACTIVE GROUP: Spice
PERFUMER: Delphine Thierry
Perfumer Thomas Fontaine imagined a tree for Lubin, to be called “Caramel Wood”. Its sap would be sweet like English toffee, but with tangy accents of wild apple, juniper and saffron, to answer for some of its mystery. He wanted a note of leather yet appetising, smooth like a whisky cream liqueur, yet smoky, fragrant and slightly bitter like superb pure malt.
The story of Korrigan:
A Korrigan is a small mythical creature that haunts the moors of Brittany, Ireland, Scotland and Wales, whisking us away to the folklore and legends of Celtic civilisation.
Innocent of writing, its legendary tales were handed down from the mists of time through the wisdom, memory and eloquence of the bards. Korrigans are not very pretty, and are known to play the odd nasty trick. But they also know recipes for elixirs offered as libation at Beltane and Samhain, festivals to celebrate the change of seasons.
An occasion of course to evoke the strong beverages of the somewhat bleak moors. Whisky is one of them, in the form of a smooth, fragrant cream liqueur, accentuate by a counterpoint of oudh accord, which brings to mind dark caves where secrets lie hidden.
“Korrigan” is therefore a fragrance to accompany Dionysian rites. Drunkenness befuddles the spirits and sets the deepest impulses free. It is a fragrance of pleasure and of Epicureanism, the unrestrained desire to taste the skin of the beloved. In the Armorican countryside the Korrigans frolic at night. They come to harvest juniper berries and wild beechnuts.
Then, in dark caves, they distil barley into spellbinding spirits, spicing them with saffron, musking them with ambrette, scenting them with lavender. During the solstice festivals, they all drink their elixirs out of leather pouches, causing bodies and souls to capsize.
TOP NOTES: Juniper berry, saffron, cognac
MIDDLE NOTES: Lavender, ambrette, whisky distillate
BASE NOTES: Cedar, oud, leather, vetiver, musk
OLFACTIVE GROUP: Spice
PERFUMER: Thomas Fontaine