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Thread: Best Chypre

  1. #1
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    Default Best Chypre

    I literally only read up yesterday on what constitutes a chypre fragrance, and I now recognise the similarity between Lancome's Magie Noire, Miss Dior and my new perfume - Cabochard. I bought this without having smelled it, purely based on Basenotes reviews (most of you love it!), and I'm glad I did. At first I was hesitant to wear Cabochard after having just sprayed some in the air, but now I'm wearing it, I love it. So clean and confident. I'm in jeans and a vest top today, though, and this perfume should definitely be worn with more formal / sexy clothes, IMO. What, in your opinions, is the best chypre? Also, I know Agent Provocateur doesn't contain the usual chypre notes, but isn't that a chypre as well? I LLLOVE Agent Provocateur.
    Last edited by Wee Scottish Scent Lover; 7th August 2012 at 10:38 AM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Best Chypre

    Hi there, Wee Scottish Scent Lover!

    Welcome to the glamorous world of chypres - aren't they just incredible?! You're in for lots of fun!

    I love Agent Provocateur too, and although I've seen it categorized as a "new chypre" or "pink chypre" it's not really a chypre at all, but it's got patchouli, which seems to be the most important element of a modern chypre. I'd recommend Bottega Veneta for something else new, and Lady Vengeance, which is similar to Agent Provocateur, actually, but a bit sweeter ...and also Citizen Queen, a fetching violet-leathery floral. And Malle's Portrait of a Lady is another gorgeous and newer dark rose/patchouli fragrance that's definitely worth sniffing.

    But talking about real chypres now, Cabochard is a leather chypre, and I actually find it rather casual, but that's certainly due to my own associations with it. If you love it you should also check out Bandit, Miss Balmain and Azurée, and as always, the older formulations are best, due to the current restrictions on oakmoss, in particular.

    My favorites are the green and mossy rose and floral chypres. Although most have been discontinued or reformulated to death, you can still find La Perla and K de Krizia here and there. La Perla is pretty much a straight-up classic chypre, and K de Krizia is an aldehydic chypre. Ungaro Diva is another one that's still quite good - it's a dark rose chypre. And of course there's Aromatics Elixir, another stunning, classic floral chypre that's been beautifully maintained through the years, as well as Estee Lauder's Knowing, also a dark rose chypre. And Molyneux Quartz is a bright green citrus chypre that's still quite excellent.

    If you're into looking for vintage bottles, I'd recommend hunting down the original Calvin Klein for women - an aldehydic rose chypre, Deneuve - a lush floral chypre, Balmain Ivoire - a green, rosy and soapy floral chypre, L'Arte di Gucci - another dark rose chypre, Gucci No1 - an aldehydic floral chypre, and Gucci No3, which is a glorious and sophisticated, classic mossy green chypre and imo, as good as they get.

    Okay, well those are my personal favorites, but that's only scratching the surface and there are lots of chypre-lovers around here, so I'm sure you'll get dozens of other great recommendations!
    Last edited by Evangeline; 7th August 2012 at 01:49 PM. Reason: typo
    Science is not only compatible with spirituality, it is a profound source of spirituality. When we recognize our place in an immensity of light-years and in the passage of ages, when we grasp the intricacy, beauty, and subtlety of life, then that soaring feeling, that sense of elation and humility combined, is surely spiritual. ..Carl Sagan

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Best Chypre

    Classic ones I like include Guerlain Mitsouko and Chanel No. 19. The ones that are a little more modern are Chanel 31 Rue Cambon and Bottega Veneta.

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    Default Re: Best Chypre

    Hello Evangeline
    Thanks for a fantastic and fast response! I'm going to look into everything you've mentioned. I'm shocked that Estée Lauder do a chypre fragrance. I always imagined their perfumes to be overpoweringly floral and lightweight. Am I missing out on something here? Going to read up on "Knowing" right now! I've read about "Portrait of a Lady" before and am sure I'd love it. Not keen on "Bottega Veneta", though. Thanks again.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Thanks, Kiliwia! I have never even heard of Chanel 31 Rue Cambon but will look into it. I am also going to try Chanel No 19.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Best Chypre

    I love some Chanel Pour Monsieur on me, or citrus takes on chypre like Parfum d'Empire Iskander and Azemour Les Orangers. They both have wonderful chypre base.
    Today I'm wearing Penhaligon's Eau Sans Pareil which also happens to be a chypre, many Penhaligon's are.
    And there's also a decant of my Guerlain Coriolan another great one.

    Gosh, there are so many it's hard to mention more than just a few.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Best Chypre

    I somehow neglected to mention Givenchy III - there's a new one on the shelves now, but seek out the vintage for another iconic, sophisticated and chic classic chypre.

    Following up on Kiliwia's great No19 rec, there are several other vibrant green florals that aren't necessarily chypres but contain enough oakmoss to make them excellent contenders, such as Balmain's Vent Vert. The original by Germain Cellier is the gold-standard for "green" perfumes, and has an unmistakable and unforgettable galbanum rush. And Estee Lauder's Private Collection, which is sort of like Vent Vert in high heels and full makeup ...still very green, but more floral and opulent.
    Science is not only compatible with spirituality, it is a profound source of spirituality. When we recognize our place in an immensity of light-years and in the passage of ages, when we grasp the intricacy, beauty, and subtlety of life, then that soaring feeling, that sense of elation and humility combined, is surely spiritual. ..Carl Sagan

  7. #7

    Default Re: Best Chypre

    There's Mitsouko, then there are the rest

  8. #8

    Default Re: Best Chypre

    this is a huge door to open...are you sure??? My brain weant haywire...


    Discover my Guest Reviewer Of The Day here

  9. #9

    Default Re: Best Chypre

    Gosh, there are so many great ones, I couldn't pick just one. Ones you should try: Caron Nuit de Noel, Rochas Femme, Paloma Picasso, Balenciaga Talisman - these are my personal favorites and also very different from each other.

  10. #10
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    Default

    Mitsouko
    Profumo by Acqua di Parma

  11. #11

    Default Re: Best Chypre

    When you have a couple of spare hours please read and take notes on this thread http://www.basenotes.net/threads/295...ons-and-Notes-)

    If the link doesn't work please search for it. I know I was the first recipient of this humongous and incredibly generous sample pass from the former and greatly missed BN member Hillaire, but everyone who took part learnt an enormous amount about the chypre genre. I'm sure many readers did too.

    Please I urge you, take notes, there are so many great chypres out there to test as well as many which have been altered beyond recognition or discontinued. Chypres have been out of fashion since the 70s but certainly within the perfumer a/perfumisto community there is a resurgence of interest. Maybe we can influence niche perfumers to create more new and interesting chypres and take them to new levels

  12. #12

    Default Re: Best Chypre

    Oh, I need to add one more beautiful green floral chypre that I almost forgot about - Cartier's So Pretty. It's a bit different, and more modern, than some of the classics I've recommended due to its dark, tart and juicy berry notes, but it's definitely got some of the same dna as the classic rose chypres already mentioned.
    Science is not only compatible with spirituality, it is a profound source of spirituality. When we recognize our place in an immensity of light-years and in the passage of ages, when we grasp the intricacy, beauty, and subtlety of life, then that soaring feeling, that sense of elation and humility combined, is surely spiritual. ..Carl Sagan

  13. #13

    Default Re: Best Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by Mimi Gardenia View Post
    Mitsouko
    Profumo by Acqua di Parma
    These + Aromatics Elixir, Soir de Lune and Montana.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Best Chypre

    Lots of amazing suggestions above but I'll give you my take on this vast genre:

    Original "classic" chypres (bergamot-labdanum-oakmoss): AdP Profumo, The Party in Manhattan, Mitsouko, Rochas Femme, Jubilation 25 (with a slightly sweet myrrh drydown) *disclaimer: a lot of these could fall in the fruity chypres category as well*

    Rose chypres: Rose de Nuit (also leathery), Soir de Lune, Amouage Beloved, Clive Christian V for Women, L'arte di Gucci, Knowing, Paloma Picasso, Guerlain Parure (also leathery), No. 19 EDP, Aromatic Elixir

    "Green" chypres: Eau du Soir, No. 19 EDT and extrait, YSL Y, Paco Rabanne Metal, Niki di St. Phalie

    Leather chypres: Azuree, Cabochard, Onda, Bandit, Tabac Blond, Diorling, Derby

    Oriental chypres (with sweet, vanillic, mossy drydowns): Dioressence, Cosmic, En Avion, Habanita

    I'm sure I'm forgetting...oh about 1000 scents, but I'll add more later.

    EDIT: Feel free to add to list folks.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Best Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by gandhajala View Post
    There's Mitsouko, then there are the rest
    but all of them are lovely and surprisingly wearable. Chypres are so classy and classic they can be worn with boyfiend jeans or Chanel couture.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Best Chypre

    this thread smells goooooooood
    A Scent Rescuer
    Every great perfume deserves a good home

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Best Chypre

    Sharing the chypre love.....fantastic!
    RHM's Vintage, Rare & Pretty Darn Good items on offer: http://www.basenotes.net/threads/380...old-Pour-Femme

  18. #18

    Default Re: Best Chypre

    I particularly love Rose de Nuit and Tabac Blond (and perceive them as chypres) from scent's list.
    My favorite 'hardcore chypres' come from Guerlain, I think - in this order:
    Sous le Vent
    Parure EdT
    Mitsouko Extrait

  19. #19

    Default Re: Best Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by Wee Scottish Scent Lover View Post
    I'm shocked that Estée Lauder do a chypre fragrance.
    - - - Updated - - -
    They do more than one. Underestimating Estee Lauder is one of the biggest mistakes a new perfume lover can make. Especially one who likes chypres. Here's an interesting piece to read: http://boisdejasmin.com/2012/07/comi...ume-story.html

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Best Chypre

    Great recommendations already in this thread! Some of my favorite feminine/unisex chypres are:

    Mitsouko, of course. This is a towering monument in the land of chypres that you just have to experience if you haven't already.

    Azuree. Soft, floral, leathery chypre. You should definitely try this one. Beautiful. And yes, you do have the wrong idea about Estee Lauder - I did too before sniffing this one. The whole line and the masculines on the Aramis side are worth exploring - they are fantastic and very reasonably priced.

    Sous le Vent - Larimar introduced me to SLV, and it is elegant and airy. It has a big sense of space somehow - clearly a chypre but a very unique one.

    Chamade - a bold, powerful 80s-style green floral (I think) chypre with a sweet side in the drydown - it is a Guerlain after all

    Chanel pour Monsieur (not the concentree) - very unisex, IMO. Pretty much perfect.
    - - - - - - - - - - - - -

  21. #21

    Default Re: Best Chypre

    Chypres are a minefield. The things they call chypres or modern chypres are nothing like real chypres at all.

    Mitsouko is called the queen of all chypres.

    I actually wore this family as a teenager without knowing anything about them or even they existed. Yes, I hang my head in shame. LOL
    DONNA

  22. #22

    Default Re: Best Chypre

    I could give you the long answer, but others have. The short answer is Guerlain Parure. The best Guerlain I've smelled, and I'm not a Guerlain guy.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Best Chypre

    What a thread! thank you!

    While reading this thread, I was going through a mental checklist thinking of "this one I have, this fragrance is on my wish list, and this I must try". This is one of my favourite fragrance families, if you like. I love, love, love chypre fragrances.

    After a quick look through this thread, don't think I can see Le Dix. Forgive me for being blind, if it's on the list. I only tried the edp, but I hear that the extrait is simply divine.
    Another fruity chypre to add is Yveress by YSL.
    Green chypre - Trussardi and White Linen, although, White Linen can be beautifully floral in hot and humid conditions.
    Perles de Lalique is another wonderful modern chypre. Love the round pearl bottle with feathers
    So pretty by Cartier is a cross between fruity and rose based chypre
    I am sure, there are many more that I cannot immediately recall, but the collective mind will continue the list.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Best Chypre

    Oh can I add YSL Y, but really try to get the older bottle, not the new cream and glass one.
    DONNA

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    Default Re: Best Chypre

    Going to be daring and spray some Mitsouko next time I'm in John Lewis. Had no idea it was a chypre. I've always been a bit "scared" of Guerlain fragrances. I think it's time I grew up. Thank you, all. You have been fantastic.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Best Chypre

    +1 for Knowing by Estee Lauder. She is my queen of chypres.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Best Chypre

    Really enjoyed reading these suggestions! I'm also one who thinks Mitsouko is the best chypre. My favourites are:

    1. Vintage Mitsouko
    2. Acqua di Parma Profumo
    3. Current Mitsouko
    4. Vero Profumo Onda
    5. Chanel Antaeus
    6. Guerlain Derby

    Also adding to all the suggestions above: Parfums di Nicholai New York... I remember thinking Carthusia Numero Uno smelled chyprish... Aramis for a readily available leather chypre.

    Also I do think Agent Provocateur was inspired by floral chypres like Jean Couturier's Coriandre and Gucci No. 3, albeit tamed for this generation of perfume wearers.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Best Chypre

    Mitsouko / 31 Rue Cambon.
    YUM!

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    Default Re: Best Chypre

    Aqua di Parma Profumo is just about perfect, (vintage is ideal) along with all the other great suggestions here.

  30. #30

    Default Re: Best Chypre

    Niki de St Phalle

  31. #31

    Default Re: Best Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by Sugandaraja View Post
    I could give you the long answer, but others have. The short answer is Guerlain Parure. The best Guerlain I've smelled, and I'm not a Guerlain guy.
    Yes - Parure is beautiful! If you can't find that (tough to find), give Chant d'Aromes (Guerlain) a try - it's a little softer than YSL's "Y", another beautiful scent. Mitsouko is gorgeous; it is not a floral chypre, like Parure and CdA. Y is more of a green floral chypre. Some people might quibble with the category, but I smell the chypre accord in the original First, by Van Cleef. To me, it's the best chypre, but the new formulation is lacking the chypre facet due to health restrictions, apparently.

  32. #32

    Default Re: Best Chypre

    I'm in LOVE with Mitsouko, I don't think I've smelled any other Chypres
    "I guess it's like most dreams, people work hard for them, they take time, When you arrive you aren't sure if it's what you expected. Hopefully it's better, but I guess that is why people dream and choose to chase them" ~anonymous.

    "You’re buying stars to shut out the light. We come alone and alone we die And no matter how hard you try I’ll always belong in the sky" ~ Marina and The Diamonds

  33. #33
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    Default Re: Best Chypre

    Feuille Verte
    Top ten

    1. Patou Pour Homme
    2. Patou Pour Homme Prive
    3. Portrait of a lady
    4. Jubilation XXV
    5. Cashmere Oud
    6. Tribute Attar
    7. Ambre 114
    8. Clive Christian No. 1
    9. Jardin d Amalfi
    10. Eau de Patou Pour Homme

  34. #34

    Default Re: Best Chypre

    I hate to be a copy cat, but I must agree with everyone who replied Mitsouko. It is my all time favorite fragrance and the standard to which I hold every other chypre.

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