Personally not aware of the former being altered.
Thread: Fumerie Turque reformulation?
I sampled Fumerie Turque and Borneo 1834 about 3/4 years ago. I loved both. Now I'm thinking to buy one of them (probably Fumerie Turque, probably both!) but I'm afraid about reformulations. Could you tell me something about this? I no have idea.
Personally not aware of the former being altered.
Just stopped by local Barney's yesterday to check on Borneo 1834; they don't have it in stock anymore
I read it has similarities to Tokyo Milk crushed/bulletproof. Does anyone here feel the same way?
If someone can smell me at more than an arm's length away, I'm probably wearing too much of whatever I applied; if she can distinctly make out the top notes, then perhaps I left the house a bit too soon..
I tend to compliment people on their frags to make short talks rather than anything more meaningful.
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I was at Barney's last month, and tried Fumerie Turque. It smelled identical to what I remember previously.
As noted by Oupavoc above, it is no longer available in the 50ml export, unless you are able to find one out there. Only availale in the $290.00 Bell Jar and even that is hit or miss.
In his 2009 guide, Luca Turin reports that FT was less rich than first smelled. But it's not clear what he refers to. As others have pointed out, FT was sold for a period also in the export bottles, and it is never clear whether the export bottles are the same as the exclusive bell jars. Now it is sold only in the bell jars (which in Paris cost much less than the $290 Barneys NYC charges). When I smelled it there, it felt very rich and warm.
I still see Borneo in the export bottle now and then, but I've never seen FT in them.
I read what Turin said as well, but the decant I got, and then the partial bottle (in the square export bottle) both smelled really good. Folks don't seem to agree on how to decipher Lutens batch codes, so I can't tell you how old my bottle is, and all I can really say is that there still is some good stuff out there if you can manage to locate it.
Export bottles on E-bay probably all date back to the time when it was being exported to North America, but I can't tell you how long ago that was. Several years ago though.
Count me among those who believe that almost all newly marketed versions of older frags have been reformulated to conform to IFRA regulations. I suppose there are some fragrances which never contained any of the restricted materials (could that be true ?) and so remain the same as always, but I suspect that most frags were in violation to one degree or another.
I don't think Lutens reformulated Fumerie Turque to comply with IRFA regulations. They most likely did that on their own volition.
Luca Turin made a comment about the reformulations 3 years ago ( as Cacio mentioned). I am not sure if there have been any changes since. I have a decant that smells wonderful, but not sure which "batch" it is from ( it is from over 3 years ago).
Basenoter Trebor has also commented on this extensively.
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I have a bottle from the year it was released and although it was more dry and stronger in tobacco (imo) it's still in a good state, you can buy it with tranquility whatever the version you find (export or 75ml).
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Fumerie Turque isn't what it used to be. Who knows exactly, but it's as if the amount of things like styrax, peru balsam, tonka bean and birch tar have been reduced, leaving it more watery, powdery, slightly less tenacious, a little less exciting in general. Still recognizable and not bad at all, but some of the grandeur is gone.
Last edited by pluran; 10th August 2014 at 03:52 AM.
I'm assuming you're smelling a new bell jar and comparing it to either old bells or the export 50ml's?
Call me crazy but as pretty as the bell jars are I'd still much rather just have all 50ml sprayers and it's almost impossible to find Borneo in that form now.
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Right. I'd never leave the juice in a bell jar. I sure as hell don’t want the stuff to be repeatedly exposed to oxygen.
Last edited by pluran; 10th August 2014 at 03:55 AM.