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  1. #61

    Default Re: Your favourite traditional British perfume house

    Quote Originally Posted by hirch_duckfinder View Post
    In my opinion Trumpers is far and away the highest quality British house nowadays. Floris have one or two good compositions made from fairly ordinary ingredients and many very obvious and poor ones.
    Penhaligons are not a serious house any longer in my opinion. Formulae are radically cheapened and some of the fragrances are miles outside the British tradition (what is Quercus all about???).

    Harris, Taylor, Truefitt have always been cheap - they offer good value and I like a few of their frags but they are not really high quality offerings. Harris is my favourite of these - some good everyday colognes. Though it has to be said that higher quality colognes are available in French supermarkets at £5 for 500ml.

    C&S are very good and are kind of related to British style fragrances. But most of them were formulated and composed in anglophile Italy and then reconstructed without formulae here - and somewhat cheapened.
    Trumpers have been reformulated a few times but to me remain high quality and very much in the tradition. They are all very practical in a pragmatic English way with no continental style frills-and-lace. Some are truly excellent too.
    If it's British perfume tradition you're looking for in a British house, I'd have to agree that Trumper's is really all there's left. The quality of Floris has become a bad joke and Penhaligon's is such a clueless house these days. Grossmith is a great comeback and their first three originals were of stunning quality, though not my style at all. I'll have to say that the revived Crown Perfumery of the 1990s was a fantastic house that regretfully didn't make it - Town & Country, Fougère, Sumare and many more scents were marvellous. And of course there's the short-lived Dukes of Pall Mall which gave us but two scents, but what brilliant scents they are, Cotwold and Belgravia. C&S was great too, while they were made by Forester (who are now facing bankruptcy). The old Frankincense & Myrrh is such a delight...

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Primrose View Post
    Has anyone tried the Grossmith line? Interesting background on this house and I am interested in sampling.
    They are really really good, but - be warned - relentlessy in your face Victorian florals. Not surprised they sell so well in the middle East.
    My Wardrobe
    II est de forts parfums pour qui toute matière/Est poreuse. On dirait qu'ils pénètrent le verre.

  2. #62

    Default Re: Your favourite traditional British perfume house

    Thanks for that Good Life. I have never heard of Dukes of Pall Mall. I will have to look into them and see if I can get any of their scents from somewhere.
    Fine fragrance is alive; it breathes, unfolds and unravels with each passing hour....

    Roja Dove

  3. #63

    Default Re: Your favourite traditional British perfume house

    Quote Originally Posted by Prince Barry View Post
    Thanks for that Good Life. I have never heard of Dukes of Pall Mall. I will have to look into them and see if I can get any of their scents from somewhere.
    Very difficult now. There used to be old stock Cotswold floating around, but that seems dried up and I only managed to get Belgravia Cologne per chance as a gift from a fellow BNer - I've posted a good deal on the house over the years, so you should find most of the info 'round here. Bokaba learned from John Stephen of C&S and Cotswold Perfumery fame that he actually did Cotswold (but apparently not Belgravia).
    My Wardrobe
    II est de forts parfums pour qui toute matière/Est poreuse. On dirait qu'ils pénètrent le verre.

  4. #64

    Default Re: Your favourite traditional British perfume house

    Quote Originally Posted by docluv45 View Post
    Crown
    Agree. The vintage Crown frags were magical. Don't forget Czech and Speake. Each is a bit edgy and most are quite non-British for a Brit brand. I really enjoy a few (88, Cuba, Citrus Paradisi, Oxford and Cambridge) and hate a few others (Dark Rose, Mimosa). Of the rest listed, I give a slight nod to Trumpers over Floris and Pens, but each is more conservative and less challenging than the C&S line up.

  5. #65

    Default Re: Your favourite traditional British perfume house

    Thanks Good Life. I read your reviews in the directory. I want to try them even more now.
    Fine fragrance is alive; it breathes, unfolds and unravels with each passing hour....

    Roja Dove

  6. #66

    Default Re: Your favourite traditional British perfume house

    Thought I'd post some follow up here in this thread.....

    After nearly 2 weeks I have received my bottle of Murdock's Black Tea. I am no expert on notes, but I find it a very,very nice clean scent, and I agree with reviews posted thus far in the database. I was looking for a clean barbershop scent and this more than fits the bill. I much prefer it to the Penhaligon's offerings I've recently sampled.

    The most important part I'd like to share with the community is this.....the gentleman at Murdocks did not charge me for shipping to the USA and included large samples of their facial scrub & moisturizer. I think that's a class act for a young company.
    Last edited by TR10; 15th December 2012 at 04:02 PM.

  7. #67

    Default Re: Your favourite traditional British perfume house

    Sounds good TR10.
    Fine fragrance is alive; it breathes, unfolds and unravels with each passing hour....

    Roja Dove

  8. #68

    Default Re: Your favourite traditional British perfume house



    Have just received a bottle of Murdocks Barbershop Patchouli Cologne and the following is my take on the fragrance:

    It opens with a fresh soft spicyness with patchouli, cardamom with a dose of pepper and it smells very nice. The patchouli is very earthy and low key, it never overwhelms but is subtlely blended amongst other notes but is still the spicy heart of the fragrance.

    I can pick up some florals in the midnotes mixing with the earthy spicy patchouli which is probably what is giving the scent that freshness in the opening. In the basenotes you can smell the earthy patchouli on a light bed of Frankincense and I have to say it smells really nice .

    The marketing is spot on with this scent as I find it sensual & mysterious and also a bit sexy, a good light spicy modern barbershop cologne that never overwhelms or outstays it's welcome. I get about five hours in longevity and it has arm length projection.

    Another Murdock winner for me and this is going straight into my rotation, I just love the modern barbershop style of this house where the fragrances are clean,masculine and can be worn anywhere and at anytime. A big thumbs up from me!

  9. #69

    Default Re: Your favourite traditional British perfume house

    Thanks for the review Jack.

    I can see that I am going to have to get to London and sniff the colognes. The horrors of living 'Up North'.
    Fine fragrance is alive; it breathes, unfolds and unravels with each passing hour....

    Roja Dove

  10. #70

    Default Re: Your favourite traditional British perfume house

    Thanks for the review Jack.

    I can see that I am going to have to get to London and sniff the colognes. The horrors of living 'Up North'.
    Fine fragrance is alive; it breathes, unfolds and unravels with each passing hour....

    Roja Dove

  11. #71

    Default Re: Your favourite traditional British perfume house




    Well I have been wearing Murdocks modern take on the traditional Fougere and here is my take on the scent.

    It opens with lavender mixed in with green fern like spices that makes the fragrance smell fresh, clean and soapy. After a while it starts to get mossy and a bit herbal with some woods. In the basenotes the soapy green fern like spicyness gets more warmer as the lavender dissipates and the green spicy moss remains.

    I have to say the projection is very good but not in a way that it shouts across the room but in a way that you are surrounded in a halo of aromatic green soapy spice. So it's not like you are catching wafts of the scent now and again but that you are surrounded in a haze of scent that you can constantly pick up on which I like. I get over five hours longevity with this and because I spray to my chest I can pick up on it much longer because the scent sticks to my clothing but not in a strong way like before.

    IMO this scent is the true modern successor to the old classic's of Wild/English fern as it is done in a modern way but has kept the traditional roots of the classic Fougere with the lavender, green fern like spices and a good dose of oakmoss without the temptation of adding other popular notes.

    So to sum up the scent is a very fresh, soapy soft lavender mixed in with herbal green fern like spices that is aromatic and mossy that lasts for five hours. A good clean barbershop scent.

  12. #72

    Default Re: Your favourite traditional British perfume house

    Aren't Czech & Speake a british company ? I like a lot of their offerings.
    I also really liked the mens edt from Mulberry and Litchfield.......both very refined......very british.
    Last edited by david; 20th December 2012 at 06:17 PM.
    " Only wimps swim with the current "

  13. #73

    Default Re: Your favourite traditional British perfume house

    Ye David, C&S are British, but quite modern with a tradional range of colognes. Similar to Clive Christian, they are bathroom designers.
    Fine fragrance is alive; it breathes, unfolds and unravels with each passing hour....

    Roja Dove

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