In your list, either rue Cambon or Oud Ipahan. Santal blush is nice, but at that point I wonder whether you shouldn't go all the way to Chanel bois des isles. In any case, I don't find rue Cambon too warm - but it's definitely jewel like. Oud Ispahan is plusher, sultry, and exotic. So it's really whether you want sultriness or not.
Last time I was in Milano I noticed quite a good distribution for Histoires de Parfums, many of which are worth smelling too (1740, Tubereuse la animale, etc)
cacio