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  1. #31
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Quote Originally Posted by lucasai View Post
    I'm looking forward to see how this sample pass evolves. It's going to be a lot of fun I think.

    When I only have some time I will try to post some short "Did you knows..." about aldehydes from a chemists approach. If you have any questions feel free to ask. I will try to answer when I can.
    How wonderful to have a chemist following us and posting I'm sure some interesting points for us all. Thanks lucasi!
    I'm not OLD...I'm VINTAGE!
    Currently wearing: No. 5 by Chanel

  2. #32

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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Just got the nicely packed big envelope (and got also Amouage Gold from schilling). Thanks!

    It's late, but I just had to put a couple on. Right arm, No 22. As you open the vial, you get the deep sweetness of the drydown. But as soon as it gets on the skin (or on paper) the big oomp of the bright soapy aldehydes comes out, accompanied by elegant florals (especially iris). 30 min in, it's still the aldehydes and Chanel iris, no big sweetness yet.

    Left arm, L'interdit. This is strange. On paper, I do smell the bright aldehydes. On skin, they're gone in no time and what's left for now is a strange paper note I've smelled in other vintage perfume. I wonder if that's some material that has turned. This is supposed to be a big lactonic floral. I do feel some creaminess, but not big. Let's see how it develops.

    On paper, I have Knize Two. It's somewhat different from what I remembered. It is aldehydic but with clean berry-fruity notes and some green florals. I didn't remember it as sweet, but more violet like. But I'll have to try on skin.

    Amouage Gold is big and rich and yet bright, the florals are so thick as to be almost oily, yet it retains the oomph and cleanliness from the aldehydes. What I smelled in stores recently seemed somewhat less rich than this, but it's hard to say. Jasmine has been restricted, so that could account for the difference.

    cacio

    cacio

  3. #33
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    I'm so glad it made it time for the weekend!

    No.22, you nailed why I prefer vintage- MUCH less sweet than Exclusifs EDT to my nose. Aren't those some seriously sparkly aldehydes? I love that EDC!

    I'm hoping Genie Jeanie will be able to tell us more about the condition of that L'Interdit sample, as she owns a bottle. While I thought the sample was lovely, it felt a bit boneless to me. Of course, it could be that the lactonic florals are meant to wear that way; I have little experience with this one.

    Knize Two is violety/irisy to me, will be interested to hear what happened on skin, cacio! Another one I just love.

    And the Gold came from 30 Roses and I do believe it's an older bottle. Maybe we'll get lucky and she'll pop in with some details on that! Your sniffer is very astute; I bet you're right on this.

    Was so happy to see you'd posted already cacio, I very much enjoyed reading your thoughts with my morning coffee! I had a feeling you'd tear into these right away. Hope you have fun with this!
    The nose wants what it wants!
    Currently wearing: No. 5 by Chanel

  4. #34
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    The bottle of Amouage Gold is one that I bought NIB from Moreda back in 2009, so it is a little older than the current formulation, but not the original crystal bottle with the 24k plating.

    The bottle is also not the opaque gold colored ones sold in the USA-- it's clear glass with a domed plastic lid with a design, just like the bottle I've seen for Ubar, Dia etc. (I'll upload a photo of it later.)

    Maybe your sample will arrive today, PL. I'll be interested in your opinion of it.



  5. #35
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Yes, I was thinking today, too. Mail usually arrives in the afternoon; will pop back in later and let you know if it came. I will post my thoughts here, as this one will be new to me!

    Thanks again for all the info, 30R! That will be very helpful to everyone!
    The nose wants what it wants!
    Currently wearing: No. 5 by Chanel

  6. #36
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Whee! I get the leftovers. As well you know, I love another great aldehyde, Weil Antilope (vintage). Love your description of ELdO Sex Pistols.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  7. #37
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Yes, you do, jujy! And I think there should be at least a few dribbles of each one for you! But do not feel overwhelmed; remember you have the freedom to play with these anytime you see fit. No deadlines for you!

    You know what, I thought of Antilope! I still think of it often, it's right up there with my favorite aldehydics. But I couldn't bear to beg a sample from you after you were so generous to us with that Weil pass. I will have to hunt up a sample for next time; it does look like we could do another round of aldehydics. More people should know Antilope.

    And thank you for the compliment! Scents I love are always easy for me to describe. Scents I don't love....well, not so much!
    The nose wants what it wants!
    Currently wearing: No. 5 by Chanel

  8. #38
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Please. I am happy to share the Antilope. Since cacio was part of the Weil pass, shall I send the Antilope on to Genie Jeanie?

    Quote Originally Posted by PerfumedLady View Post
    Yes, you do, jujy! And I think there should be at least a few dribbles of each one for you! But do not feel overwhelmed; remember you have the freedom to play with these anytime you see fit. No deadlines for you!

    You know what, I thought of Antilope! I still think of it often, it's right up there with my favorite aldehydics. But I couldn't bear to beg a sample from you after you were so generous to us with that Weil pass. I will have to hunt up a sample for next time; it does look like we could do another round of aldehydics. More people should know Antilope.

    And thank you for the compliment! Scents I love are always easy for me to describe. Scents I don't love....well, not so much!
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  9. #39

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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Tried a couple more. On skin, the le Labo, uncharacteristically, does what it says. A big sparkly aldehyde; on my skin, there's a significant amount of berry sweetness. Not as bad as it sounds, because the aldehydes keep it in check. LT calls it a minature white linen: in part, it is, but I think that WL is not just bigger, but richer, with nice florals and a deep rose, which I do not detect in this. Nice, but just nice, and really not worth the asking price.

    Pleasures (which I had tried before): entirely abstract, radiating cleanliness and absence of bacterial life. Admirable in its own way. Still, as it goes, there's something that doesn't sit well with me. It becomes to my nose almost shrill and unpleasant, as some sharp cleaning substance that may do its job but smells wrong. A personal thing evidently.

    Nocturnes: nice pleasant aldehydic floral at first. Then some chemical that disturbs me comes out - something between light bilge (very light) and florist burp - I've noticed it before in other perfumes defined as elegant florals (for instance, to a much larger extent, in Bas de soie). So again, a personal reaction. Turin defines it as so predictable it would be considered normal at a Miss Texas lineup, and, indeed, there's really nothing of particular interest in this floral.

    cacio
    Last edited by cacio; 19th January 2013 at 03:05 AM.

  10. #40
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Tried a couple more. On skin, the le Labo, uncharacteristically, does what it says. A big sparkly aldehyde; on my skin, there's a significant amount of berry sweetness. Not as bad as it sounds, because the aldehydes keep it in check. LT calls it a minature white linen: in part, it is, but I think that WL is not just bigger, but richer, with nice florals and a deep rose, which I do not detect in this. Nice, but just nice, and really not worth the asking price.

    Pleasures (which I had tried before): entirely abstract, radiating cleanliness and absence of bacterial life. Admirable in its own way. Still, as it goes, there's something that doesn't sit well with me. It becomes to my nose almost shrill and unpleasant, as some sharp cleaning substance that ends up smelling like rotten flowers. A personal thing evidently.

    Nocturnes: nice pleasant aldehydic floral at first. Then some chemical that disturbs me comes out - something between light bilge (very light) and florist burp - I've noticed it before in other perfumes defined as elegant florals (for instance, to a much larger extent, in Bas de soie). So again, a personal reaction. Turin defines it as so predictable it would be considered normal at a Miss Texas lineup, and, indeed, there's really nothing of particular interest in this floral.

    cacio
    How did the L' Interdict & Knize Two end up developing for you, Cacio? I have a bottle of LI that's not vintage, but @ 12 yrs old. It seems to have more structure than what you describe. I'd be happy to add in a sample of mine for reference.

  11. #41
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Here is the bottle of Amouage Gold. As you can see, it is not the typical bottle sold in the USA. The BNer I bought it lives in the Netherlands, and I'm not sure where he bought his (vast) collection of Amouage.




  12. #42

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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    jeanie:
    no particular development for those two. Interdit a lactonic floral with said so so, turned (?) note, and Knize two violet fruity also on skin (perhaps on skin more violet, but still some berry).

    30 roses:
    who knows when things changed. the jasmine restriction came into effect in 2010, so 09 could still be a richer formulation. In any case, whatever version this is, it smells excellent.

    jujy (I forgot to answer):
    indeed, I don't need Antelope, which I smelled in the Weil pass. It was one of the few big oldies that did nothing for me. It just didn't tell me anything, and went away quickly. Must be anosmic to parts of it.

    cacio

  13. #43
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Quote Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post
    Please. I am happy to share the Antilope. Since cacio was part of the Weil pass, shall I send the Antilope on to Genie Jeanie?
    I say go for it, jujy, if you're absolutely sure you don't mind sharing a bit more! Thank you so very much!

    Now don't get scared, gang- it's only one more and I promise I won't add another after this one! I think some of you will be very glad to try Antilope. It's beautiful!

    cacio, he of the perfume-eating skin, at least we know the No.5 extrait will last a bit for you! I can't tell you how much it aggravates me that I get no longevity with it-but you do! Lol!

    That bottle is so gorgeous, 30R. For once, a bottle that really matches the scent inside! It does indeed seem that your bottle must have more natural jasmine than current bottles.

    I'm trying Gold with you samplers-and loving it! Will write up a post on it soon!
    The nose wants what it wants!
    Currently wearing: No. 5 by Chanel

  14. #44

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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    A few more today:

    Iris poudre: as per name. Nice, clean iris. With a certain sweet berry note, but not too strong. I prefer my irises a little rootier and drier, but this is well done, if uninspiring. Women who like fruity florals should get acquainted with this rather than the syrups.

    Divine l'ame soeur: nice bright aldehydics up top, then dry woody with a touch of sugar. Nice, but to my nose devoid of any sparkle. Makes for a good clean masculine superior to the Allures &co.

    Climat: I had smelled this at the duty free in France, don't know if this is the recent version, but it smells the same, that is, good. Aldehydic floral that smells rich, almost warm, and enveloping. Could go on my to buy list.

    Rive Gauche: I had smelled this already (modern version). Rich aldehydic rose, somewhat dark. I sprayed this on paper and it felt a little cleaner than what I remembered, but it could be the paper. Will try again on skin. In any case, my birth-year scent Calandre feels more serene, creamier and with the right amount of spices, and I prefer it.

    Liu: nice clean, citrusy jasmine - in another pass I just smelled the Donna Karan and I must say I prefer the denser DK. That said, as I commented there - now that jasmine has been restricted - the comment "just a simple jasmine" is not valid anymore.
    Still, I'd have preferred a darker, more indolic jasmine.

    Chant d'Aromes: on paper, for now. Nice aldehyidic floral, and with a dose of peach skin. Luca Turin said that it was initially an aldehydic floral with a big dose of peach, then lost it and became a generic aldehidic floral, then got back some of the peach, but not all. This one definitely has some, though not too much, so it's probably of the last type. It's ok, but the florals smell a little bit too juvenile, almost hinting at the dreaded freesia-peony florist hybrids, so I don't se myself wearing this. But to be fair one has to try on skin.

    Finally, I started to explore the big No 5 packet! I assume the edt and edp are the current ones, which I know well, so I may not spray them. Of course, I was rather more tempted by the two (!) extraits. I just put them on 15 min ago, so they'll have to be reexamined. For now: the current one is crispier and cleaner, and with less florals. I had sprayed the current one last year in a duty free, and it felt even cleaner and soapier and less floral. So I don't know if this isn't the very latest variety, or more likely, if the act of spraying made the difference. Spraying immediately envelops you in a cloud of clean, soapy aldehydes, something which dabbing was not.

    The old one has richer florals, and less aldehydes, but of course less aldehydes could be accounted for by age. Indeed, on skin I note a sort of cardboardy note which I smelled also in the interdit, and which I smelled also in a ruined no 5 extrait I have. It's not very evident, but now that I know it, my nose perceives it. It doesn't appear on paper (I have the two also on paper), only on skin. I'm wondering if it's something that turned, or just my skin.

    In any case, even if not as strong as last year, I am now surrounded by a beautiful, abstract, clean cloud.

    cacio

  15. #45
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Wow, that was fast, Cacio!! All these beautiful scents now coming my way! I'm especially looking forward to testing the Chanel No 5 scents. All of them are new territory for me, so the comparisons will be a fantastic opportunity. From your descriptions, Climat sounds quite interesting & I just might find a love in Liu. Big indolic flowers are usually too much for me to enjoy. I see some potential in Knize Two as well. Great reviews, Cacio. Thank you!

  16. #46

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Lovely line-up there, Miriam is utterly gorgeous. The only standout aldehydic fragrance you're missing is Stephen Jones by Comme Des Garcons - and even CDG EDP 2011 - OH and M/Mink. 3 super modern interpretations.

  17. #47
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Freddie, thank you! I will note your recs for a second, future aldehydic pass! The response to this one has been much more than I expected. I had it in mind to keep this pass to around 10 scents but obviously I found it impossible to edit down that much. To be honest, smaller passes work a bit better. But I really did feel all of these should be here; I just couldn't cut any more!

    Miriam is the Tauer I wish I could wear. It's very nearly perfect if you ask me. I admire Mr. Tauer and his work so much but his base does not like my skin. Still, I wouldn't have him change a thing; he's an original. I do hope someone in the group will fall in love with Miriam.

    cacio, some details on the dates of those scents for you:
    Climat- you are correct, this is recent. Came from a La Collection bottle, the ones with the wonky caps that went to discounters shortly after their release.

    Chant d'Aromes- yes, most recent version. Right again!

    No.5- yes, EDT & EDP are current. My EDP was purchased in Jan. 2011, EDT and extrait in spring of 2012. All were bought new; my Chanels come from Macy's or Chanel.com. When I want vintage, that is left for Whitefluffy to seek out; she is the e-bay expert.

    You were 4 for 4 on those cacio! Great investigative sniffing!
    Last edited by PerfumedLady; 20th January 2013 at 03:25 PM.
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  18. #48
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Great reviews Cacio! Thanks so much! I can't wait till it's my turn, though I don't know if my nose is as finely tuned as your is yet.
    I'm not OLD...I'm VINTAGE!
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    M/Mink? No thanks... the bilgey concoction is one of my no-no scents.

    I had forgotten to comment on Sex Pistols. Perhaps because I don't like it. The scent is taken over by some (to my nose) unpleasant woody amber and smells like alcohol cleaner. But then I tend not to like woody ambers.

    In the No 5 territory, I tried the elixir sensuel. The opening reminded me a lot of a gorgeous No 5 bath oil (which unfortunately Chanel isn't doing anymore)., perhaps because of the medium. But then it becomes a touch fruitier and sweeter than the alcohol based ones. Good nonetheless.

    I have not sprayed these edt and edp, but I know the current ones. To my nose the edp is richer and woodier, but a tad too heavy. The edt is a little inbetween the parfum and the edp, elegant and smooth but not as crisp as the parfum. The parfum remains the most striking, crisp and clean, even though the current version seems a touch deficient in the floral department, which the vintage has. But then there's the strange slightly cardboardy note in the vintage I'm not sure about.

    I think this is it - what a wonderful experience! I've been floating in soapy clouds these days. Sometimes next week, off to the next sniffer.

    cacio

  20. #50
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Oooh, I'm surprised (and happy!) that you liked the No.5 elixir!

    Thank you so much for participating, cacio! I enjoyed each and every one of your impressions; very glad you joined. Wonderful, as always! Hope you'll be back when I round up another set of aldehydics.

    Hmm, bilge in M/Mink? Will this make my stomach turn like SM did? Lol! Sounds a bit scary but I'm not above inflicting bilge on my samplers!


    Southerngardens, you are coming along beautifully and already add much here! Do not worry about where you are in comparison to others. All you have to do is keep learning and you'll find your confidence growing. Focus instead on finding YOUR way of thinking and writing about fragrance. Join all of the giant, intimidating sample passes you can!
    Last edited by PerfumedLady; 21st January 2013 at 02:56 PM.
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  21. #51
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Thank you for the advice PerfumedLady! I will do just that!
    I'm not OLD...I'm VINTAGE!
    Currently wearing: No. 5 by Chanel

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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Just got the Eau premiere from Schilling (thanks)! To my nose, it is aldehydic too. Clearly in the No 5 family, this is a variation with more evident citrus. Sweeter and lighter than the others (as jujy was saying), but still with the same smooth soapy cloud, especially at a distance. It is fun to smell all the various No 5 in short succession, the same main theme played with subtle differences in the details.

    I also noticed I forgot to comment on Miriam, which I did not spray because I have a big sample myself (from the Brian Pera project). This is a classic, dry aldehydic floral, very elegant and restrained, over the usual Tauerade base, that dry, dusty, flinty base noticeable in many of his composition. The base is interesting because sometimes is seems overwhelming and sometimes not. When I smelled this, it seemed very well done, just a background. Whereas it seemed too strong in Orange star and Rose chypree, as well as the first time I smelled Loretta (a tuberose). Then the second time I smelled Loretta it seemed back in check again, so who knows. I'll have to retry Miriam soon.

    cacio

  23. #53
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Yes, EP certainly has aldehydes but for me, it's the least traditionally aldehydic version of No.5. I originally cut this one from the line-up because I just don't feel it holds its own next to the others in this group. I was shocked to find the gel SE holds its sparkle on this skin more; I expected the Elixir to be much less aldehydic. You're right, it is fun to sniff them all side by side- go ahead and throw EP in if you like, cacio.

    There are so many Tauers I think are beautiful- just not for my own wearing. My skin plays up the more sour aspects of Tauerade to an unpleasant degree, I'm afraid. When I first tried Miriam, though, I knew I had to give it some exposure. I do think it's one of the finest modern aldehydics out there. Now that I've lost my tuberose fear, I must try Loretta!
    Last edited by PerfumedLady; 23rd January 2013 at 01:32 PM.
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  24. #54

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Oh, PerfumedLady I am afraid you might not like Loretta at all! I can send you a sample, of course, but to my nose it's a cheap grape soda on his even more overpowering this time base. I just took one whiff from the vial and it stuck in my nose for hours. Of course, it's a testament to quality of Mr'. Tauers perfumes, but I was quite disappointed unfortunately. And I had hard times picking up tuberose in there.

    I did like Miriam very much, but to me it' was like a different version on Chanel n 5 parfum on his famous Tauerade. I am still his huge fan however and was very much intrigued by Lys de Desert.
    Last edited by Whitefluffy; 28th January 2013 at 08:47 PM.

  25. #55

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    M/Mink is definitely bilgey - in the opening at least. But the opening is just PURE adoxal aldehyde - which is surprisingly, very very challenging - it dries down to a beeswax/incense/patchouli. I love it >

  26. #56
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    The package arrived safe & sound, & I hope to start testing tonight. Thank you, Cacio!

    Looks like I'm going to be a busy lady for a while with all of these scents! Just love your presentation of these PerfumedLady! Such nice little tins to keep everything safe & organized. You're giving me some excellent ideas! Hope to start posting some impressions tomorrow. Happy Sunday, everyone!

  27. #57
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Did the Antilope arrive, Genie Jeanie?
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  28. #58
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Quote Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post
    Did the Antilope arrive, Genie Jeanie?
    Not yet, Jujy. The mail hasn't been delivered today, so fingers crossed! I know it's been a while since you mailed it out.

    I've started writing up some reviews & will begin posting when the site stabilizes a bit. Having muchos problemas!!

    Update: Jujy's Antilope arrived! Thank you, Jujy! It will be in my test lineup tomorrow.
    Last edited by Genie Jeanie; 28th January 2013 at 11:59 PM.

  29. #59
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Oh, jujy, thank you again and again for sending out the Antilope! I'm so happy we're including that beauty!

    I don't blame you, Genie! The site has exhausted even my nearly-bottomless well of patience. Hope it's resolved soon; meanwhile I'm considering other avenues for our discussion should BN crap out altogether. There is another, back-up BN disussion forum somewhere on these interwebs; will try to post a link tomorrow. We may just need it.

    Freddie, I'm terrified yet intrigued, which means M/Mink is a must try for me! Glad you brought it up; I've actually been curious about the entire line. This will light a fire under me to get a sample order going. And I meant to tell you before, please feel free to chime in with your thoughts on any of these! You need not be in the group to post here about these scents- that goes for everyone!

    I don't know, Whitefluffy, since my last post I've only become more baffled by tuberose! You're probably right. I have no idea why I sometimes love it and sometimes loathe it. But I'm willing to bet tuberose+Tauerade won't be a love for me! Of course, that's what I said about the HdP tuberose trilogy. I think we all know I had to eat those words!
    Last edited by PerfumedLady; 29th January 2013 at 12:09 AM.
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  30. #60
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Just got word from Genie Jeanie that the Antilope has landed!

    And, yes, the site is hiccoughing all over the place. Double-posting, asking me if I want to leave, then telling me I can't—it's like a bad boyfriend!
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