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  1. #121
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Is No. 22 the one with the nail varnish note?

    I'm wearing No. 19 vintage EdC this afternoon (I went to the gym for lunch so I spritzed some on after a shower - aldehydes-a-go-go!!) and I'm once again reminded how I have done a complete 180 on that signature Chanel-aldehyde-iris thing that so many of their scents feature. Before, it really annoyed me. And now, I really like it. I love it when that happens.

    Coincidence: I have a tiny bottle (somewhere...I'd have to find it...) of vintage Lady Stetson. I've only smelled it once (prompted by Tania Sanchez's review) and I liked it. If I can find it, I'll save it and send it to you gals for the next Sample Pass. An old friend gave it to me (a woman in her 90's) when she found out I was into fragrances.

    Schilling - your aldehyde genes sound a bit...raw. Don't break your nose darling.
    "Realize deeply that the present moment is all you will ever have."

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    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  2. #122
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Good going Schilling! Don't let those Aldehydes get you down in the nose! You are doing a fantastic job and I am enjoying reading your impressions a lot. I have not sniffed No.22, but I understand it's a aldehyde bomb and very sweet as well. That mix can strain your olfactory senses. Keep up the great work!

    Southerngardens
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    Currently wearing: No. 5 by Chanel

  3. #123
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Schilling, I am enjoying your observations. Something else I get from the great aldehydes is an abstracted anise/tarragon note.

    Re: Antilope, it has a little bit of everything. It's even been called a "floral woody aldehydic chypre". I've never thought of it as dark, though I've also noted that it has no"edges". I experience it as a "round" fragrance, Magie Noire being another round one in my olfactive vocabulary.

    Speaking of aldehydes, I just got some vintage Caron Infini on ebay. It's one of the those great big, tuberose/aldehyde/vetiver monsters, I love it! It seems to share more than a little with Guerlain Chamade. It belongs to that treasured part of my collection that includes vintage Miss Dior, Ma Griffe, Aprpège, and, yes, Antilope. They are all vintage, "dames of a certain age", with a scent past recapturing. I really have no modern scent that gets to me in the same way.


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  4. #124
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    jujy, I have been looking at Infini and wondering about it. You have confirmed that it is another I must "try and buy" . Especially if it shares a space with Chamade, Ma Griffe and Miss Dior.I have not tried Chamade or Miss Dior, but they have been associated to Arpege and Ma Griffe which I have "tried and bought" and can wear well! Thanks for sharing, now to find some samples!
    I'm not OLD...I'm VINTAGE!
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  5. #125
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Mike, I've never noticed a nail varnish note in 22 but then, I just might if I go sniffing for it. I'll wear it again soon and see if I notice. It makes sense to me that it could be the one you're thinking of as 22 is as loaded with aldehydes as they come. And I'd be so honored to use your LS next pass! No hurry on that, think we'll wait until late summer/early fall for the next one. I think this bunch may want a break from fizzy bombs after this! Now, I'm itching to grab a current LS from Wal-Mart so we can do a comparison with your vintage!

    jujy, I'm just dying to see how you'll get along with Chanel! I think you'll at least like, if not love, some of the No.5s. But the ones I'd really recommend you to try most would be Cuir de Russie, Bois des Isles and the greens. All the greens, too-No.19, Bel Respiro and Cristalle (EDT, EDP & Eau Verte). I'll send some Cristalle EDT for you, I'm working on ideas to keep you busy this summer! Will be the perfect time to try that one!

    Had to laugh, I just tried Infini myself and indeed thought of you, j.! Completely agree with the Chamade association, exactly what I thought of, too. Minus Guerlainade, of course!
    The nose wants what it wants!

  6. #126
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Ah, so I am type cast! S'OK, Sarrasins aside, it is amazing how the old-school aldehydes get to me; it could be how they evoke childhood scent memories. When the Chanels show up, I'll be able to see how old/new school aldehydes compare.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  7. #127
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Quote Originally Posted by

    [B
    jujy[/B], I'm just dying to see how you'll get along with Chanel! I think you'll at least like, if not love, some of the No.5s. But the ones I'd really recommend you to try most would be Cuir de Russie, Bois des Isles and the greens. All the greens, too-No.19, Bel Respiro and Cristalle (EDT, EDP & Eau Verte). I'll send some Cristalle EDT for you, I'm working on ideas to keep you busy this summer! Will be the perfect time to try that one!

    Had to laugh, I just tried Infini myself and indeed thought of you, j.! Completely agree with the Chamade association, exactly what I thought of, too. Minus Guerlainade, of course!
    JUJY you are just gonna love the Chanels. When I first came on board some nice BNers sent me Bois De Ilse, Cuir de Russie and No.19 and it was love at first sniff for those. I have made no 19 a big part of my collectiom because it's so wearable for me for so many occasions and have not bought Bois de Iles or Cuir de Russie yet, I bought Cristalle edt and edp, but just didn't like them,so, I sold them to another Bner who loves Cristalle. Your really in for a treat!
    Last edited by southerngardens; 15th February 2013 at 07:07 PM.
    I'm not OLD...I'm VINTAGE!
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  8. #128
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Schilling, what you do think about the ELDO scent, have you tested it yet?

    southerngardens, I couldn't enjoy Cristalle either. There is something in it that rubbed me the wrong way. But both No. 19 and Bois de Iles totally clicked with me when I first tested them. Well, that's not true - Bois de Iles was very aldehydic and this was when I was a bit sensitive to aldehydes, so I remember making a face as soon as I applied that one, but the sandalwood dry down is so seductive. And then I came to enjoy that fizzy, gingerbread-esque aldehyde top note so now I am a fan. I have never smelled BdI parfum, I would love to. I'm assuming, southerngardens, you also enjoy Egoiste the 'brother' of BdI (and even more sandalwood prominent)?
    "Realize deeply that the present moment is all you will ever have."

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  9. #129
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Schilling, what you do think about the ELDO scent, have you tested it yet?

    southerngardens, I couldn't enjoy Cristalle either. There is something in it that rubbed me the wrong way. But both No. 19 and Bois de Iles totally clicked with me when I first tested them. Well, that's not true - Bois de Iles was very aldehydic and this was when I was a bit sensitive to aldehydes, so I remember making a face as soon as I applied that one, but the sandalwood dry down is so seductive. And then I came to enjoy that fizzy, gingerbread-esque aldehyde top note so now I am a fan. I have never smelled BdI parfum, I would love to. I'm assuming, southerngardens, you also enjoy Egoiste the 'brother' of BdI (and even more sandalwood prominent)?
    Mike, I'm glad I am not the only one that didn't cotton to Cristalle. I couldn't get used to the citrus it gave off. I like my citrus to have a kick to it and Cristalle just seemed to lay there, deflated.
    From what I have read, I think I would like Egoiste, but surprise, I have not sampled that one yet. However, if it shares lineage with BDI and more sandalwood then it would surely have my vote!
    I'm not OLD...I'm VINTAGE!
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  10. #130
    Super Member Schilling's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    [/B]Mike[/B] was right. I was a bit raw (and cranky), but am back with a vengeance and renewed enthusiasm. I’m so pleased to have returned to this gentle bunch, less boosted by aldehydes than all of the previous samples. Unfortunately, I’m with my sweetie and have once again successfully shut down his nose after thrusting my arm underneath it today, one too many times. I’ll type quickly while he sniffles and shoots me accusatory glances.

    Lancome Climat (Originally issued 1967). Sample from the “La Collection” reissue/reformulation of 2005. Opens with a bright herbal green (no animalics for me) and distant white florals. The fizzy soap paves the way for a darker forest of vetiver, oakmoss and sudsy musk.

    YSL Rive Gauche (1969 by Chanel’s Jacques Polges. Overhauled in 2003 by Givaudan’s Daniela Andrier and Jacques Hy). I don’t find this nearly as coarse as PL and Genie Jeanie do, but it has been hard to push past the “rose scented bathroom spray” description. I enjoyed the odd birch tar opening, which is chased by a wave of soaped roses that are quite of bit of sweeter and more comforting than several of the Cruella DeVille Chanel bouquets. Anchored by a distant vetiver and oakmoss, in a small enough dose that I can tolerate

    Knize Two (1978). I associate fragrances from the 70’s with big, uninhibited fragrances, so I was really surprised to wear this perfectly demure unisex. Opened as Aldehyde Lite and finished as Leather Lite. Top notes were of an enormous melon that remained long after the unsweetened violets and iris took over. No tea notes for me. Dried down like Leather Lite. Short half-life, so I was surprised to see the $70/50ml price tag. On backorder from LuckyScent with a few bottles floating around Amazon.

    Caron Nocturnes EDT. (1981 by Roger Pelligrino). If Knize Two was light on the aldehydes, Nocturnes was lightest. Almost a straight forward, delicate lily-based floral and soft ambered vanilla base. No tuberose, and nothing sexy for me, but safe and inoffensive, so you could include me in this Miss Texas lineup. Easy to find on-line for about $50/100ml.

    Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle Iris Poudre (2000 by Pierre Bourdon). Spotlight on the iris. Spiced fruit, coconut, vanilla and sandalwood.

    EL Pleasures Intense (2002). Without the indoles, this is like a Datura Noir for the masses. A surprisingly nice offering from a company that rarely pans out for me. When I want to wear something ultra feminine and floral.

    Next up: Divine L’Ame Soeur, Aldehyde 44, Amouage Gold, Sex Pistols and ForFreddy's fabulous Miriam. I'll try to sneak in a few when Bob isn't looking.
    Last edited by Schilling; 17th February 2013 at 12:07 AM. Reason: typo

  11. #131
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Hi all! Sorry for my absence here, but I'm recovering from a bit of surgery & zonked out most of the day. I do try to read up on the progress, but am a little too wonky to post much.

    Schilling, you are doing such an incredible overview of the scents. Bravo!! Didn't you say you were going to "try to muddle through" them?? Ha!
    Note to self - take muddling lessons before reviewing any more scents!

    Time for more meds & back off to lala land. Back with you guys soon........

  12. #132
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    It sounds like Nocturnes is the least aldehydic of the bunch - would everyone agree?
    "Realize deeply that the present moment is all you will ever have."

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    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    It sounds like Nocturnes is the least aldehydic of the bunch - would everyone agree?
    Agreed.
    I'm not OLD...I'm VINTAGE!
    Currently wearing: No. 5 by Chanel

  14. #134

    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    It sounds like Nocturnes is the least aldehydic of the bunch - would everyone agree?
    I don't agree. I can pick up aldehydes, I think they are quite prominent. But to be fair, they are rather soft and in possession of very good manners. I think ladies from Texas might not appreciate the reserved demeanor of this rather quiet composition.

  15. #135
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Yeah, Nocturnes is the least aldehydic, but, Schilling, Miss Texas? Really. That was cold! Witty, but cold. I will have to revisit my mini of same.

    I've been wearing my one Chanel N° 5, a mini EdP of unknown vintage, for the last 2 days as a warm-up to the sample pass. Compared to my other aldehyde faves like Miss Dior and Infini, N° 5 is far more polite. No cumin at the opening, and less growly in the drydown. She's the mother fragrance who birthed some bad girls, thank goodness!
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  16. #136
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Schilling, I LOVED the Miss Texas Comment. I was ROFL! You have done just what I plan to do and that is to write your impressions of the frags in your own way and have done a smashing job at it as well! I am counting on you to give me moral support when my time comes if you will?

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    Currently wearing: No. 5 by Chanel

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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Hello, lovelies! I haven't abandoned you! Been in bed with a virus all weekend but I've been peeking in on you all from my Kindle. All sorts of interesting posts! Will comment more when I'm at the computer.

    I do want to report that the L'Interdit EDT from Genie is in fact the re-issue. I think I'm about to be kicked out of the vintage club as I do like Genie's sample better! Feel better, Genie and take your time in getting your rest. This monster pass will still be going when you've fully recovered!
    The nose wants what it wants!

  18. #138
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Divine L’Ame Soeur (2004) An option for someone who really wants to enjoy Chanel No5, but just isn’t in the right frame of mind yet for her icy affection. We’ve got the initial burst of sharp, yet manageable aldehydes followed by a similar jasmine/rose blend, but this one has a big heart of clover honey-drizzled fruit. Crossover appeal for gourmands seeking to shake up their wardrobe. Pleasant powdered drydown.

    Le Labo Aldehyde 44 (2006). [Created by L’Ame Soeur’s (and Trump’s Success) Yann Vasnier.] The name throws you off its scent, so was it’s choice of City Exclusive. This is a gentle, subtle woodsy musk that a big money, Dallas deb might overlook as it sits quietly in the corner at this Aldehyde party. Very likable, but it came with a small unfortunate olfactory memory: 1986. The high school locker room. Shower-to-Shower powder. Remember its jingle? “Shower to shower each da-ay, helps keep odor awa-ay. Have you had your sprinkle todaay?” Sure enough, it’s still sold and their website reveals their Classic scent formula, “chamomile, rose, jasmine and sandalwood”.

    Amouage Gold (2009) by Guy Robert. This is potion, not perfume and it dwarfs No5’s EDP. Cacio was right in saying that it’s so rich, it’s oily. I’m four hours into it and am still drowning in one heady little dab. A non-stop bubbling champagne fountain, dense narcotic flowers, sweet incense, and a lovely cedar base. A little animalic without getting dirty.

    Tableau de Parfums Miriam EDP (2011). Perfumed Lady’s Incensee Rose sample is circling back to me next week, so I’m looking forward to doing a repeat sniff to try to acquaint myself with this “Tauerade” base that everyone talks about. A lovely opening, made unique by a pine note that no one else mentions. To me, a sweet and unimpressive tonka and sandalwood finish.

    Next up and last up: Etat Libre d’Orange Sex Pistols (2010). I’m so leery of this. Even as a kid, I thought Johnny Lydon was a big jerk. If he had a hand in this, I’m sure it includes his big, fat, overused middle finger to all the wankers who have paid his way in life. Please let me not love it.

    Southerngardens, you're very sweet, but sadly the snarky Miss TX comment wasn't mine, but lifted from Cacio quoting Luca Turin. But I'm glad that you enjoyed it, as mine, for a brief 48hrs. You can count on my moral and non-plagiarized support.

  19. #139
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Quote Originally Posted by Schilling View Post
    Next up and last up: Etat Libre d’Orange Sex Pistols (2010). I’m so leery of this. Even as a kid, I thought Johnny Lydon was a big jerk. If he had a hand in this, I’m sure it includes his big, fat, overused middle finger to all the wankers who have paid his way in life. Please let me not love it.
    (giggle)

    Shower To Shower 44 (which I've never smelled) sounds like something I would detest. Thanks for the warning.
    "Realize deeply that the present moment is all you will ever have."

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  20. #140
    Super Member Schilling's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics



    Unfortunately, along with perfumer Mathilde Bijaoui of Mane, this man played a role in my last sample, Etat Libre d’Orange’s 2010 ‘Sex Pistols’. [Renamed last year as 'Malaise of the 1970s', conspicuously without mention of its former christening on the ELOS site.].
    DOUBLY unfortunate is that I enjoyed this sample. A lot. It was not obnoxious, clashy, revolutionary or how I imagine anarchy to smell, unless lawless disorder opens as an overly-peppered Bloody Mary in the first 15 minutes, followed by a faint kid glove, a powdery patchouli and vanilla ambergris that carry you for the next three-four hours. Fragrantica disagrees with me and senses “An unruly turbulence caused by prune...”. LOL. Sadly, it lasted about as long as Sid Vicious did.

    After 20 samples, I thought I could finally ID an aldehyde and then you throw in this red herring in. I would have called it an Oriental. I wouldn't have predicted it, but it was a great one to end on.

    My Top Ten in descending order:
    L'Ame Soeur
    Knize Two
    Sex Pistols
    Aldehyde 44
    Pleasures Intense
    Nocturnes
    Iris Poudre
    No5 EDT or Elixir
    Liu
    Miriam

    I'm so glad that I seized this opportunity by the beard! This sampling has been a lot of fun and thank you for your comments and encouragement. Big thanks to Perfumed Lady for putting together a phenomenal representation for me to have fun with and learn from.

  21. #141
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Schilling, it's been a delight to read your observations day by day.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  22. #142
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Wow, the reviews of the Sex Pistols one are all so different - it's quite a shape-shifter of a fragrance on people's skin is my guess.

    The only ELDO scent I found bottle worthy as of now is Noel au Balcon (which I happen to have in my gym bag today, I'll wear it after the gym today). I also really, really, really like Rossy de Palma. But the others just mildly interest, bore me or repel me (Secretions Magnifiques). That Tilda Swinton one, I just wish I got what everyone else is smelling - on me it smells like pie crust and musk.
    "Realize deeply that the present moment is all you will ever have."

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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    My goodness, what a thing to wake up to! Hilarious pic, Schilling-and I see you used the most flattering photo of Mr. Rotten you could find! No, they were not nice guys but I do admit to having a fondness for that era. I can't believe Sex Pistols made it into your top three! I really love it, too. Agree with Mike, Rossy de Palma is wonderful and SM is utterly sickening. Could not wait to get that thing out of my house!

    Schilling, you have really wowed me. I knew you were a great sniffer and writer but my socks are knocked off by your posts! I'm so happy other BNers have had the chance to get to know your nose and especially your personality. You're going to make lots of great friends here. I know you were nervous but you didn't let me down one little bit! Very proud of you and you should be, too! I've had a blast reading your thoughts, thank you so much for joining us. Now that you've done a big scary pass, you're going to feel much more confident. Again, it thrills me to hear you recognize aldehydes! All I wanted from this pass was to give some beloved BNers more confidence in their noses. I believe we're achieving that! I appreciate your efforts so much, my dear!

    Mike, I'm wearing a bit of 22 today and guess what? Yep, it seemed a bit nail polish-y to me at the opening. Not something I'd have picked out on my own but I do believe this is the one you were thinking of!

    I've been thinking about the Nocturnes discussion you all had, will give that another wear tomorrow. Off the top of my head, I'm thinking I'd put it in the middle range in relation to this particular grouping. Certainly not the sparkle bomb that 22 is but more aldehydic than say, the No.5 Elixir or Eau Premiere. I'll know what I think better after re-visiting Nocturnes.
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  24. #144
    Super Member Schilling's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    The babies are snug in their beds again and will be shipped off tomorrow, Wednesday. I'm really looking forward to hear who earns your love, sjg!

    Perfumed Lady, that WAS the best pic I could find of Lydon. I was hoping to, but was unsuccessful at finding one with his new teeth.



    I'm not sure how he holds his cigarette nowadays.

    Jujy and PL, thank you again for the kind words. We'll have to do this again!

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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Quote Originally Posted by PerfumedLady View Post
    ...Mike, I'm wearing a bit of 22 today and guess what? Yep, it seemed a bit nail polish-y to me at the opening. Not something I'd have picked out on my own but I do believe this is the one you were thinking of!...
    I remember one time Luca Turin & Tania Sanchez did a radio show, I'm thinking it was NPR or maybe it was BBC but the show was simulcast on the 'net and it was around the time that The Guide came out, so I made sure I was logged in to listen to it (I remember it was the middle of the day so I was streaming it at my desk at work) and after the radio announcer interviewed them, he asked people to call in with questions. This woman asked Tania about a Chanel that she was having a hard time finding a replacement bottle for her Mom and I'm pretty sure it was No. 22 if my memory serves me correctly. Tania told the woman caller that she thought it smelled a bit like nail varnish and the woman caller totally agreed with her and laughed, sort of admitting that this was the part of the scent she was ashamed to admit she enjoyed the most. It was so sweet - like this woman finally had someone else in the universe who 'got' why she liked a scent. I will never forget it and I always told myself that I wanted to smell that Chanel. I have never smelled No. 22. Turin/Sanchez give it 4 stars in The Guide and their review makes me giggle:

    No. 22 is above all an exercise in heavy lifting. Aldehydes are said to give "lift" to a fragrance, meaning they offset the sweetness and heaviness of whatever else is in there. Like its Antonov namesake, Chanel's 22 goes for the maximum-payload record as follows: (1) Determine the largest dose of aldehydes a human can stand without fainting. (2) Load it up with as much sweetness as the aldehydes can bear. (3) Round it off with a note of iris to make it look easy. (4) Stand back and watch the whole thing lumber off into the sky after a three-mile takeoff roll.
    Gosh, now I want to smell it.
    "Realize deeply that the present moment is all you will ever have."

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    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  26. #146
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Oh, that's one of my favorite reviews in The Guide! Sometimes I agree with LT/TS, sometimes not- but I can fully support that review. Sure wish I'd heard the radio show, sounds very interesting. How fun would it be to call in and talk with them?!

    After paying attention, I can totally see the nail varnish association. Seemed most pronounced at the opening but I did get whiffs off that note throughout the day. Like the caller in the radio show, I enjoy it, too!

    I wish I had a bit more 22, Mike, I'd mail it to you today if I had enough to bother! The current Exclusifs version will do if you're near a boutique; it's been tweaked but it's still recognizable and still beautiful. I wouldn't turn away current or vintage 22!

    Yes, Schilling, we must do this again! I hope we get to participate in lots more passes together!
    Last edited by PerfumedLady; 20th February 2013 at 01:18 PM.
    The nose wants what it wants!

  27. #147
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    I smelled No. 19 (vintage Eau de Cologne) yesterday and it too, IMO, also has a nail varnish note.
    "Realize deeply that the present moment is all you will ever have."

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    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  28. #148
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    I have a bit of vintage 19 parfum here and I had to re-visit it yesterday after Mike got me thinking about this nail polish vibe. I did pick it up on application but it was gone within seconds. To me, the heart and drydown in my sample is a perfectly manicured English garden in the countryside, with one of Coco's ciggies smoldering nearby. Very clear florals. With 22 EDC, I found the nail varnish to be woven through the entire development. Also have some No.5 EDC that I can now pick out nail varnish from in the opening and well into the heart. I'm glad you shared that anecdote, Mike; it's so refreshing to notice something new in scents I thought I knew well! I do have some current No.19 EDT, now I must find out if there's a nail salon in there as well. And yes, I do enjoy this note! As a cosmetologist, these cosmetic-y smells were my bread and butter. Will always have a soft spot for those weird but good smells.

    I must regretfully inform you all that Southerngardens will not be able to join us after all. I will miss his input. But it does mean that there will be much more than just leftovers for jujy. Since we were cutting it a bit close on juice, I won't bother adding another member. Sjg3839, please note that you will now be mailing to jujy54!
    Last edited by PerfumedLady; 24th February 2013 at 06:14 PM.
    The nose wants what it wants!

  29. #149
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    ooh-ooh! Cannot wait!
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  30. #150
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    They're on the way, jujy! I can't wait for you to get these, either! So excited to see what you'll think! Have been wanting to share my No.5s with you ever since sampling your Antilope. Hope you have fun with these!
    The nose wants what it wants!

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