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  1. #151
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Quote Originally Posted by PerfumedLady View Post
    I have a bit of vintage 19 parfum here and I had to re-visit it yesterday after Mike got me thinking about this nail polish vibe. I did pick it up on application but it was gone within seconds. To me, the heart and drydown in my sample is a perfectly manicured English garden in the countryside, with one of Coco's ciggies smoldering nearby. Very clear florals. With 22 EDC, I found the nail varnish to be woven through the entire development. Also have some No.5 EDC that I can now pick out nail varnish from in the opening and well into the heart. I'm glad you shared that anecdote, Mike; it's so refreshing to notice something new in scents I thought I knew well! I do have some current No.19 EDT, now I must find out if there's a nail salon in there as well. And yes, I do enjoy this note! As a cosmetologist, these cosmetic-y smells were my bread and butter. Will always have a soft spot for those weird but good smells.
    It seems we are not alone, with these associations PerfumedLady. In Perfumes: The Guide, Tania Sanchez describes it as ‘a striking and admirably dissonant portrait' , ‘from the silvery hiss of its nail-polish-remover beginnings to its poisonously beautiful green-floral heart’.

    I would think the current EdT that you have, has even more of this note, than our vintage juice (and your parfum even less). Does it?

    The EdP (new, not vintage) has been on my To Test list forever. Old BN member scentemental talked so fondly of it, especially for men. He said it was one of the best vetiver prominent scents on the market, since the 'new' EdP has a stronger vetiver note than all of the other formulations.
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  2. #152
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Aldehydes and ketones, one of which is acetone, are chemical relatives, so this is not too surprising.
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  3. #153
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Bingo, jujy! Was just about to mention the chemical connection but you beat me to it! Yes, was thinking about acetone last night, which would explain TS' polish remover reference for 19; many removers contain acetone. Full strength acetone is used to remove artificial nails. Now it makes perfect sense why some of us see these Chanels as nail salon-ish. Also interesting, since we're discussing aldehydes-formaldehyde is a typical component of nail polish. But formaldehyde is not the same as fragrance aldehydes, just a neat little coincidence in name. I do also get a polish-like note in some of these Chanels, though. However, I do NOT mean to imply there's a formaldehyde note in any Chanels! There isn't. That would be yucky.

    Mike, yes you are right about my 19 EDT! The nail salon is much more pronounced than in parfum. I have yet to try EDP myself. Am really digging this little exploration! It makes sense to me as Chanel perfumes have always been about artifice and abstraction. Remember, No.5 was meant to smell of woman, not of flowers or courtesan's boudoirs. Most feminine Chanels have something soapy, powdery, make-upy or varnish-like about them. Always a nod to all the things we do to primp and pretty ourselves up. I've learned a tremendous amount about why this line speaks to me so much through this conversation. Thank you so much for opening my eyes to this, Mike!
    Last edited by PerfumedLady; 28th February 2013 at 01:57 PM.
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  4. #154
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Ils sont arrivés! Ils sont arrivés! I am remembering my high school French!

    So beautifully packed, too. So, where to start? Chanels—first or last? That's the big question. Chronological order? Group by similarity, as in floral aldehydes, civety aldehydes? I think I will first look and list. Any suggestions on how best to take this marvelous tour are most welcome.
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  5. #155
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Yay! The samples have reached their final destination-success!

    I have thought about how I'd tackle this group. If it were me, I'd sample in three groups. One would be classics, two would be modern/niche and the Chanels would get the third group all to themselves. I do recommend sampling the various No.5s close to the same time as 22. Both were part of the original set of samples presented by Ernest Beaux to Coco Chanel. These two are variants on the same scent. Apparently, as close as science can tell, the aldehydics Beaux made for Chanel were based on an earlier creation of his: Bouquet de Catherine, aka Rallet No.1.

    You'll grasp these no matter how you choose to go about it, jujy! Your nose definitely has the experience to handle this group. I think a few will be right up your alley! Enjoy-and relax and take your time! These babies are yours now, no need to rush yourself!
    The nose wants what it wants!

  6. #156
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Jujy, Isn't it crazy?? I scattered them all over the table and sat there scratching my head for about half an hour.

    Along the lines of PerfumedLady's suggestion, I chose the Chanel No5s on their own, and then chronological order to see how history, copy-catting and the fashion of the times had an impact. You can backtrack to my entries and see the dates next to each sample. I got off track a couple of times. Must have been the fumes.

    If your memory is anything like mine, mark your arm w/that fragrance's initials in pen. I stopped trusting my memory early on. The Chanels will trip you up.

    Have fun!

  7. #157
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    So, Schilling, are you responsible for the kiddie band-aid seals on the vials? I love it.

    So far, I started with the N° 5 EdT as a baseline and will revisit it when I do the Chanels. Other than that it's been willy nilly. I do write down location and impressions. This much I know, I am a hound for old-school civet-laden aldehydes, clean meets dirty-aah! The only modern that comes close is the 2003 sample is Interdit. If anything screams Miss Texas, it's Le Labo Aldehyde 44—it was released in Dallas and has matchy-matchy written all over it, at least that's what the gals from Houston might say, if I knew any (;

    More in more detail later?
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  8. #158
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Jujy, Are you sure that you were sniffing the new L'Interdit? I thought the new one was one of the cleanest and least aldehydic in the whole bunch, completely unrelated to the vintage L'Interdit? I'm pretty spineless when it comes to the dirty animalics and I thought that the vintage vial had some major funk, so much that I wondered if it had gone off.

    Until I find PerfumedLadys Nextcare bandages (which are perfect--secure and non-gummy), those baby bandaids are the next best thing. Did I use Curious George or the Hulk?

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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Oh, I will have to recheck. There are two Interdits?

    I see a Shrek bandaid and one that looks like part of Clifford the Big Red Dog, so I'm guessing variety pack. So you bought baby bandaids just for scent swapping or do you keep a supply in case of owies?
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  10. #160
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Haha! I just love the thought of these big, glamorous scents all wrapped up in cartoon characters! So funny! Schilling, I've just been to a CVS pharmacy and saw they carry the roll of Nexcare bandage tape, as does Walgreen's. Not hard to find but a bit overpriced at almost 6 bucks a roll. Still worth it for our sample securing purposes. But for first-aid, I'll always take the cheaper options.

    Yep, two L'Interdits, jujy! The Surrender to Chance sample is the vintage parfum. The other is the 2003 reissue. However, these two have only the name in common, entirely different scents.

    Honestly, if I had to choose a scent for the Miss Texas pageant contestants, I'd give them Rive Gauche. That thing is every bit as obnoxious as beauty pageants and their contestants. I should note, as a child, I did participate in a pageant. So I know how annoyingly nerve-grating the whole mess can be. I won- but I didn't like it one little bit! That memory and RG get no love from me!
    Last edited by PerfumedLady; 4th March 2013 at 04:47 PM.
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  11. #161
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics



    Is this Little Miss Perfumed Lady 1980?

    What a great tid bit about you! We should see the photographic proof, though.

    Jujy, those little Band-aids come to the hospital where I work, but since we can't use any that contain latex, lots of cute ones get yanked out and wrapped around perfume samples. Until I pick up some of that Nextcare, which was made for Sample Passes. How's your nose doing?

  12. #162
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    (giggle) - Schilling, you are a TRIP!
    "All problems are illusions of the mind."

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  13. #163
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Basenotes temporary forum here (you have to create a name and password to post):

    http://basenotes.activeboard.com/



  14. #164
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Yikes Schilling! Now I know where fembots come from!

    - - - Updated - - -

    Yikes Schilling! Now I know where fembots come from!
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  15. #165
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Hahahaha! Yes, fembots come from Indiana! What a beautiful child but a creepy pic! No, that is not me- she's way too advanced for a 1980 contestant. We weren't doing the spray tan and highlights just yet back then! Most definitely no eyeliner; I'd remember being allowed to wear that (I loooove my eyeliner!). Schilling, you are really asking me to throw vanity out the window, aren't you? If I can find a pic, I'll post it! May take awhile, though; my house is a shambles as we've moved into the interior stage of our re-model. Right now, I'm lucky to find a clean coffee cup in the morning! But if I don't have a pic, there must be one at my dad's.

    I do hope we haven't offended any Texans with our pageant comments; I know for certain no one here means to pick on Texas! For those who may not know, we're referring to a review of Caron Nocturnes written by Luca Turin in The Guide. He used the Miss Texas pageant as a metaphor for a bland, homogenized type of beauty. Turin is known for his somewhat snarky humor but I think he meant no offense, either- more likely he was simply trying to be humorous and entertaining, which his writing definitely is. I will post the review in its entirety soon as I realize not everyone has read the book and it is an interesting review, though I disagree with it. Just really wanted to say please don't be angry with us Texas! I love all of our great states and would never mean to pick on anyone!

    30R, thank you so much for the link! I'm having trouble over there; I did create an account some time ago with the same info I used for my account here. But now it won't let me log in! It's always something, I'll get it figured out!
    The nose wants what it wants!

  16. #166
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Quote Originally Posted by PerfumedLady View Post
    ...
    30R, thank you so much for the link! I'm having trouble over there; I did create an account some time ago with the same info I used for my account here. But now it won't let me log in! It's always something, I'll get it figured out!
    Try clicking on "Lost account info?" I think you will get an email with your username and password. Is it possible you used a slightly different password (or misspelled your usual name/password, which is the same thing) when you first signed up on the temporary forum?



  17. #167
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    That's a real possibilty, 30R! I tried once to have the info sent to me but it wouldn't go through. If I recall though, I was on my Kindle at the time, may have something to do with that. Will try again from the laptop. I did use my same username but I could have easily messed up my password. I do a couple times a week just logging in here! My greatest typing skill is making typos.
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  18. #168
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    OK, back to the samples. And back to moi!


    Schilling notes:
    Jujy, Are you sure that you were sniffing the new L'Interdit? I thought the new one was one of the cleanest and least aldehydic in the whole bunch, completely unrelated to the vintage L'Interdit? I'm pretty spineless when it comes to the dirty animalics and I thought that the vintage vial had some major funk, so much that I wondered if it had gone off.
    Yes, indeed, there are two L'interdit samples, vintage and 2003, and, yes, it was the vintage I sampled, and yes, it is the soapy/dirty/floral-meets-animal civet-laden aldehydic experience I crave. Is this truly past recapturing? Is it a change in ingredients, in tastes, or both?

    I plan to get into bed with the Chanels this weekend and see what kind of a history lesson that will prove to be.

    fwiw, I think the picture of the kid is photo-chopped beyond recognition, almost to the Uncanny Valley.

    - - - Updated - - -

    All right then, here's the N° 5 Report:

    Well, quelle f'n surprise, I loved the vintage 1950s extrait and found the others, while charming, not nearly as distinguishable form one another as they were as a group from the grand dame I favor.

    March 9th, just after midnight: I dived in at the start with the two extraits, 1950s and the newer, albeit undated. To my left was the vintage, to my right, the newer, in each case I daubed onto wrist forearm and crook of arm. This from my written notes:
    "Both are iconic and hard to subdivide into notes. 1950s has that dirt I crave. Current version is soapier with more sandalwood. Vintage has heliotropin.

    ...a few minutes later:
    I reapply more lavishliy. Current version has something lilac-ish on 1st sniff and more muguet than vintage. Vintage has civet, heliotrope, anisic aldehydes and, yes, civet."
    (redundancy as written, not without reason!)

    So, this is Chanel. It is like Mozart; who doesn't love Mozart, recognize his work as singular, and yet I leave the house for Mahler, but not necessarily poor little Wolfgang A (fwiw, Mahler's last word was purported to be "Mozart.") I like my aldehydes even dirtier than vintage Chanel, and this the L'Interdit is still my favorite in the sample, an equal to Infini, Miss Dior, and Arpège, the last of which I consider closest to N° 5.

    Later that afternoon: I decide to sniff all 6 on cotton balls in Ziploc® bags and write quick, spontaneous impressions. Here they are on the order sampled:
    •Eau Premiere—Pepper and rose*
    *later note: pepper herb green spring printemps premiere!
    •EDT—animal 1st/aldehyde 2nd in intensity
    •EDP—same as EDT but louder
    •Eau Sensuelle—powdery animalic
    •current extrait—more of the EDP vibe
    •vintage extrait—aldehydes are HUGE! Classic "perfumy" smell, ketonic

    Later that evening:
    I blind sniff the cotton balls that I carefully Ziploc®-ed away, setting them aside in order to identify later.
    Here's what happened, posted in the order sniffed:
    1. Refreshing and rosy—that was Eau Premiere
    2. slight chill in opening, rosy and animal—current extrait
    3. good balance of chill beginning followed by animalic warmth—EDP
    4. classic. depth. cumin — favorite—1950s Of. Course!
    5. Grren, peppery. "Silk scarf" —Eau Sensuelle
    6. slightly rotten rose/jasmine, 2nd favorite—EDT

    So, there you have it. My Chanel N° 5 experience. This is the mother of those bad girls I so love. Don't feel the need to add this to my wardrobe, if that's not too heretical. My advice is, go vintage or go home.
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  19. #169
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    jujy, I loved your process of testing this group! I would have never thought of using cotton balls and baggies.
    And you took the words right out of my mouth in your conclusion "go vintage or go home"! It just proves my point about the greatness of vintage frags. They were made with much better quality ingredients back then than today and weren't forced to use inferior materials or excessive synthetics as today.
    Great Review!

    southerngardens
    I'm not OLD...I'm VINTAGE!

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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Interesting, to my nose the current extrait is the cleanest and crispest. The vintage is also clean and crisp, but, as pointed out, has rich jasmine and a touch of civet that make it more complex.

    cacio

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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Quote Originally Posted by southerngardens View Post
    jujy, I loved your process of testing this group! I would have never thought of using cotton balls and baggies.
    And you took the words right out of my mouth in your conclusion "go vintage or go home"! It just proves my point about the greatness of vintage frags. They were made with much better quality ingredients back then than today and weren't forced to use inferior materials or excessive synthetics as today.
    Great Review!

    southerngardens
    I think tastes as well as ingredients changed. In the absence of civet, ambergris, and now, with oakmoss and jasmine being threatened, it is a challenge to perfumers to find IFRA-approved dirt. First, they have to want to, and want to be trend-setters rather than followers. Cumin, perhaps? As I explore the more outré brands such as ELdO, I hope to find some trend-setting dirt. Will report back.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Interesting, to my nose the current extrait is the cleanest and crispest. The vintage is also clean and crisp, but, as pointed out, has rich jasmine and a touch of civet that make it more complex.

    cacio

    cacio, I think my nose has some catching up to do to grasp the fine distinctions amongst the modern N° 5s. otoh, N° 22 made me want to jump up and cheer. My handwritten note from my bedside journal reads, "Yes! much > than N° 5 coriander note seals the deal." That was coriander, wasn't it? Perfumed Lady, did you predict my preference for N° 22?
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  22. #172
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Oh, my goodness! So many interesting thoughts since I've last popped in!

    First, yes juj, I had my hunches about you and 22! I can't say I was 100% certain you'd like it better than 5 but I did wonder. Mainly because of Antilope: I see similarities between it and 5 but Antilope is much heavier on those animalics that I know make you swoon. I thought you'd have fun with the 5s but probably not love any enough to own. Being well-stocked on Antilope, I just couldn't see you "needing" any 5. I know Antilope can scratch that itch better for you! And no, nothing is heretical here! We love what we love and there is simply no sense in spending money on perfumes that don't click with us, no matter how well-respected or historical they may be. These things are not to be forced!

    No.22 on the other hand, is so very different, even though it was constructed much the same as 5. Thought you'd like the sweet, woody incense vibe there. And the sparkle! That EDC stays vibrant and fizzy on this skin through its entire progression. I don't believe I've seen coriander "officially" listed as a note but we all know that means nothing. I agree that there's a brightness there that absolutely could be coriander. Still some vintage 22 out there to be had should you decide you need some! And maybe try the new Exclusifs version sometime just for giggles; I do think it's still very good. But your nose will find the woods in the vintage far superior like mine does, I believe.

    About vintages- I do agree they are more often than not the only way to really get to know the classics. But then there are classics that I prefer to wear in the current versions for my mundane daily activities. Jujy's second favorite No.5, the current EDT, is actually one of my go-tos. I find it easy to wear and conducive to gettin' things done. Up until last year, the reformulated Ivoire de Balmain was nearly indistinguishable from the original to some of us here. So, there have been some darned good reformulations. They are just few and far between. Far more of my early loves are ruined or just gone for good. I was able to stick with my Shalimar from the 80's all the way up to this latest reform in the Jagger bottle. Many people still love this new version, though. For me, some reformulations are just fine; many more I never want to sniff again. In many cases, I think discontinuation is a better option. I'd never want to smell a re-done Antilope for instance; it was already timeless to begin with. If you love a classic, it's definitely worthwhile to explore all the vintage you can get your hands on. But it's perfectly ok to not like them better for daily use. Vintage is its own separate perfume rabbit hole. The main thing is that designer or niche, vintage or new-our own noses must be the ones to decide what's for us. I have a few scents in both vintage and modern and when the modern is still good, this is the arrangement I like best. This way, the current can be worn freely but I always have my vintage for special times, or times when I just want to sniff the artistry.

    Also, I agree, cumin is one modern answer to "how to dirty this thing up?" Have worn MFK's Lumiere Noire a lot this past winter, which features cumin. Have found it very satisfying in the same way that perfumes used to do it for me back in the 80's. Really adds the depth that so many modern perfumes lack; will explore this note more. Yes, there is still some dirt to be found in the niche world-of course, for a price!

    That was a brilliant way to explore the No.5's jujy! I love the baggie idea, this is new to me. Still have the one with the cotton ball of your Sarrasins and it still smells divine! I may just do this myself with all the No.5s. I think it would be a great way to sniff out the differences after allowing them to concentrate the scent within the baggie. Bet I'll find something new myself this way.

    And one last thing for now: I did know you'd love the vintage L'Interdit! Plush and animalic but I thought different enough from all of your collection to really grab your nose! Yes, I nailed that one!
    Last edited by PerfumedLady; 11th March 2013 at 12:58 PM.
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  23. #173
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Quote Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post
    All right then, here's the N° 5 Report:

    Well, quelle f'n surprise, I loved the vintage 1950s extrait and found the others, while charming, not nearly as distinguishable form one another as they were as a group from the grand dame I favor.

    ...Later that evening:
    I blind sniff the cotton balls that I carefully Ziploc®-ed away, setting them aside in order to identify later.
    Here's what happened, posted in the order sniffed:
    1. Refreshing and rosy—that was Eau Premiere
    2. slight chill in opening, rosy and animal—current extrait
    3. good balance of chill beginning followed by animalic warmth—EDP
    4. classic. depth. cumin — favorite—1950s Of. Course!
    5. Grren, peppery. "Silk scarf" —Eau Sensuelle
    6. slightly rotten rose/jasmine, 2nd favorite—EDT

    So, there you have it. My Chanel N° 5 experience. This is the mother of those bad girls I so love. Don't feel the need to add this to my wardrobe, if that's not too heretical. My advice is, go vintage or go home.
    Jujy, I just knew you'd have some great input on the No 5 samples!! I am so craving that 1950's extrait , (just sublime), but the edt is probably a more realistic quest for me. So funny that I've never been a lover of vintage, but my favorites of the pass are your vintage Antilope & this extrait. Oh no... I think I'm heading in a dangerous direction.

  24. #174
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Hi, Genie Jeanie, today I noticed that Guerlain Liu has the same drydown as my vintage Antilope, as well as My Sin, Miss Dior, and a few other oldies. I'm assuming this is the current Liu, from the Les Parisiennes collection. Not a bargain, but none of the ebay craziness, either.

    Some other thoughts from my notes, most scribbled bedside:
    Knize Two: starts with aldehydes and temperate spring flowers (muguet? lilac?) then vetiver and musk. Possible unisex.
    Le Labo Aldehyde 44: makes me think of taffeta with lovely floral notes
    FM Iris Poudre: polite floralfollowed by aldehydes, adding sparkle to usually earthy iris.
    EL Pleasures Intense: The menthol-ish aspect of tuberose dominates—mostly floral/fresh, don't get the aldehydes.
    Amouage Gold Woman: This has the appeal of old-school fragrances while note imitating them, the difference being a fruity/floral note, possibly osmanthus?
    ELdO Sex Pistols: flowers and paregoric
    L'âme Soeur: childhood memories and baby powder

    later, I did a side by side of my sample of Iris Ganache and Iris Poudre. Here's some side by side contrasts, in the format:
    Iris Ganache/Iris Poudre
    old/new
    indoor/outdoor
    sweet/astringent
    "ruffly"/minimalist
    velvet/silk
    voluptuous/suave austerity
    overdone/abstemious
    decadent/enlightened

    My note says, "Today, at least, I am preferring the Malle." Of course, on any given day, that could change!

    Most of the remaining, Nocturnes, Rive Gauche, Climat, and of course, thevintage Antilope I either have or have sampled, anddon't feel like revisiting just now. I'm all described out! With your permission, I'll stop here.

    There's plenty left to pass on—any takers?
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  25. #175
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    (((Genie)))!!! I'm so happy to see you! I've missed you! Expect a PM from me before the week is out; have been wanting to chatter at you!

    Excellent sniffing, jujy! I love your thought process during your note taking! Yes, of course you may consider yourself finished! I knew you'd know a lot of these already.

    Thank you for offering to send to another sampler! I do have someone in mind who would have liked to join us originally: a wonderful gal called heavenscent1. If no one has grabbed your kind offer, I will check to find out if she's still interested. That's great we have some leftovers! I was worried we'd run short.
    Last edited by PerfumedLady; 13th March 2013 at 08:03 PM.
    The nose wants what it wants!

  26. #176
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Quote Originally Posted by jujy54 View Post
    Hi, Genie Jeanie, today I noticed that Guerlain Liu has the same drydown as my vintage Antilope, as well as My Sin, Miss Dior, and a few other oldies. I'm assuming this is the current Liu, from the Les Parisiennes collection. Not a bargain, but none of the ebay craziness, either.

    Some other thoughts from my notes, most scribbled bedside:
    Knize Two: starts with aldehydes and temperate spring flowers (muguet? lilac?) then vetiver and musk. Possible unisex.
    Le Labo Aldehyde 44: makes me think of taffeta with lovely floral notes
    FM Iris Poudre: polite floralfollowed by aldehydes, adding sparkle to usually earthy iris.
    EL Pleasures Intense: The menthol-ish aspect of tuberose dominates—mostly floral/fresh, don't get the aldehydes.
    Amouage Gold Woman: This has the appeal of old-school fragrances while note imitating them, the difference being a fruity/floral note, possibly osmanthus?
    ELdO Sex Pistols: flowers and paregoric
    L'âme Soeur: childhood memories and baby powder

    later, I did a side by side of my sample of Iris Ganache and Iris Poudre. Here's some side by side contrasts, in the format:
    Iris Ganache/Iris Poudre
    old/new
    indoor/outdoor
    sweet/astringent
    "ruffly"/minimalist
    velvet/silk
    voluptuous/suave austerity
    overdone/abstemious
    decadent/enlightened

    My note says, "Today, at least, I am preferring the Malle." Of course, on any given day, that could change!

    Most of the remaining, Nocturnes, Rive Gauche, Climat, and of course, thevintage Antilope I either have or have sampled, anddon't feel like revisiting just now. I'm all described out! With your permission, I'll stop here.

    There's plenty left to pass on—any takers?
    Jujy, that was FANTASTIC. I loved reading your notes and especially the side-by-side iris contrast, very clever. You sent me to the dictionary with "paregoric" and made me smile with your L'ame Soeur description.
    Despite your stern vintage challenge (OK, I'm packing my bags and going home right now), I was pleased to find that we shared some similar impressions and appreciation for the modern aldehydes (Hello, Le Labo).

    It's not all rainbows and bluebirds, though...L'Interdit?? How can two human noses smell something so differently? I'd like to sniff it on you and see what got lost in skin translation on me. Would that be weird?

  27. #177
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    Well, Schilling, I do have relatives in Chicago, which raises that to a non-rhetorical question (;

    Most of my older aldehydics are minis, so I am loth to assemble a sample pass from them, even as I am tempted to assemble say my top4 or 5 into a "These are a Few of my Favorite Things" themed pass.

    Using this pass as a frame of reference, you will find what I love in the drydown of Liu and the vintage Interdit—oh, and of course the vintage Antilope which I contributed. It's mossy, ambery, "lotiony", and a little anisic, with a dose of what some call dirt, and I have come to think of as "body warmth", usually a civet note, whether natural, synthetic, or some stand-in like cumin (my own hypothesis. Noses being what they are, do you recall a similarity amongst those three? In my own collection, I would add Myrurgia Maja (old formulation), vint Miss Dior, and the vint Infini I just acquired. In the meantime I await my ebay purchase of vintage Chamade EdC, sealed in a disc bottle with glass stopper, upon which I will most certainly report. If it's good, being a generous quantity, I will be happy to pass that babe around!
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  28. #178
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    And I live right between you two, and I know our BN Mommy Quarry is up for Chicago! Yes, let's all go watch Schilling sniff jujy! Then maybe go find some perfumes to sniff!

    Jujy, I keep going back to your thoughts on Gold. This one was new to me, too and have been working with my sample from 30R as the pass progressed. I've been getting a tea-like vibe with the florals but wasn't sure why. Osmanthus could be the answer; tomorrow I'll wear it again and see if I can finally pin my thoughts down. It really is beautiful, or was at least. Our sample is pre-reformulation.

    Congrats on the Chamade, I just love the look of the disc bottles! Think they're so cool looking. Have only worn current EDP on skin myself. Some time ago, cacio sent me a vial labeled with a question mark. At first, I thought he was messing with me (now, would our sweet guy do that?!), a test maybe. Turned out, he was hoping I knew what it was! It feels so familiar though blurred a bit by age but my mind keeps going back to vintage Chamade. Maybe not the answer but a clue to the identity of the mystery vial. Still have some of the question mark sample so yes, I'm very curious about your lovely find, jujy. I bet cacio will be interested to hear about it as well.

    Have not heard back from heavenscent1, so I'll put the call out one last time: anyone else like to join us? Please contact either jujy or me if you'd like the aldehydes, we'd be happy to have another sampler!
    Last edited by PerfumedLady; 17th March 2013 at 03:23 PM.
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  29. #179
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    My osmanthus education came via others commenting on Sarrasins, as I tried to pin down it's plummy/apricotish heart note that sweetened up the jasmine.

    - - - Updated - - -

    re: Guerlain disc flacon: a cursory search suggests this style, which debuted in 1937, continued into the 80s and not later, so my Chamade would be of a certain vintage (: Despite being sealed there is about 1/5 to1/4 evaporated. I have I feeling I will like it no matter what state it is in.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  30. #180
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    Default Re: Sample Pass: Aldehydics

    I sampled Le Parfum de Therese by Frederic Malle last night and I'm pretty sure it's chock-full of aldehydes. Would anyone else agree?
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