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  1. #1
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    Question Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    I really admire this house ~ probably my favourite, along with Caron. I adore most of the range, however.....
    there are just a few female fragrances, (and only one male fragrance) I somehow can't appreciate.......
    Would like to know your opinions on them.
    They are,

    mens
    Guerlain Homme

    womens
    Jardins de Bagatelle
    Champs~Elysees
    Idylle
    La Petite Robe Noire

    I find them not up to the usual Guerlain high standard. Perhaps I'm missing something and someone can give me some insight !
    Thanks.
    " If you obey all the rules you miss all the fun ". Katharine Hepburn.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    I would say that Guerlain Homme is not one of their best offerings but I still like it.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    Hello, my friend, David -

    I concur with your sentiments and realize that I will not like everything a house has to offer. It is like an argument in a relationship with someone you care so deeply about. Yet, in the end, you realize that you cannot change their mind...and they cannot change yours. So, sometimes, it is best to agree to disagree.

    From an epic house like Guerlain, I am a purist and love the older/traditional/vintage bottlings the most. So, for me...Guerlain's closest associations for me will always be Vetiver, Habit Rouge, Heritage, and Eau de Cologne Imperiale (Shalimar, Mitsuoko, and L'Heure Bleue for women).

    The recent releases by Guerlain, including Homme (and it various flankers) and even L'Instant don't feel "special" to me. While LIDGE is a competent fragrance, it doesn't capture any classicism for me - and it shouldn't. It is a contemporary scent of quality and very wearable - but it will never come before the hallmark scents.

    Cheers.

    ericrico
    “Some perfumes are as fragrant as an infant’s flesh, sweet as an oboe’s cry, and greener than the spring; While others are triumphant, decadent or rich; Having the expansion of infinite things, like ambergris and musk, benzoin and frankincense, which sing the transports of the mind and every sense.”

    ― Charles Baudelaire, The Flowers of Evil & Paris Spleen

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    Default Re: Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    Quote Originally Posted by ericrico View Post
    Hello, my friend, David -

    I concur with your sentiments and realize that I will not like everything a house has to offer. It is like an argument in a relationship with someone you care so deeply about. Yet, in the end, you realize that you cannot change their mind...and they cannot change yours. So, sometimes, it is best to agree to disagree.

    From an epic house like Guerlain, I am a purist and love the older/traditional/vintage bottlings the most. So, for me...Guerlain's closest associations for me will always be Vetiver, Habit Rouge, Heritage, and Eau de Cologne Imperiale (Shalimar, Mitsuoko, and L'Heure Bleue for women).

    The recent releases by Guerlain, including Homme (and it various flankers) and even L'Instant don't feel "special" to me. While LIDGE is a competent fragrance, it doesn't capture any classicism for me - and it shouldn't. It is a contemporary scent of quality and very wearable - but it will never come before the hallmark scents.

    Cheers.

    ericrico

    I personally think that L'Instant and it's eau de parfum merit mention in the same breath as the older more classic scents, (of which the absolute classic for me is Mouchoir de Monsieur). I don't think that's true of Guerlain Homme though. I've tried it a couple of times but I can't find anything to rate it above mediocre.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    Hello martinijo -

    Yes, I listed a few of the classics that I adore and MdM is also a wonderful classic. However, L'Instant and its EdP (while good) are of very solid construction, of which I strongly prefer the EdP (the EdT pales in comparison) - they cannot ever evoke similar emotions and the level of pure olfactory enjoyment that the classics offer.

    To me, it shows the house is still competent in making new, more modern compositions that are of quality. They will, thankfully, continue to make profit - so the biggest "win" for me is that they will, hopefully, continue to make quality versions of the classics (as I happen to really adore the beauty in the latest bottle of Guerlain Vetiver - as it goes back to its 'roots' - pun intended).

    Good stuff, yes. Not a full bottle purchase for me as of right now, but worthy. I would consider the EdP/Extreme bottling of L'Instant only. However, I respect your input and know that this is a very popular scent. Again, I like it and respect what the Guerlain house has put forth. I have comparative reviews of L'Instant (EdT) and the Extreme (EdP) bottling on Fragrantica, if you (or anyone) is curious about my perspective.

    Cheers,

    ericrico

    Quote Originally Posted by martinijo View Post
    I personally think that L'Instant and it's eau de parfum merit mention in the same breath as the older more classic scents, (of which the absolute classic for me is Mouchoir de Monsieur). I don't think that's true of Guerlain Homme though. I've tried it a couple of times but I can't find anything to rate it above mediocre.
    “Some perfumes are as fragrant as an infant’s flesh, sweet as an oboe’s cry, and greener than the spring; While others are triumphant, decadent or rich; Having the expansion of infinite things, like ambergris and musk, benzoin and frankincense, which sing the transports of the mind and every sense.”

    ― Charles Baudelaire, The Flowers of Evil & Paris Spleen

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    Default Re: Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    Quote Originally Posted by ericrico View Post
    Hello martinijo -

    Yes, I listed a few of the classics that I adore and MdM is also a wonderful classic. However, L'Instant and its EdP (while good) are of very solid construction, of which I strongly prefer the EdP (the EdT pales in comparison) - they cannot ever evoke similar emotions and the level of pure olfactory enjoyment that the classics offer.

    To me, it shows the house is still competent in making new, more modern compositions that are of quality. They will, thankfully, continue to make profit - so the biggest "win" for me is that they will, hopefully, continue to make quality versions of the classics (as I happen to really adore the beauty in the latest bottle of Guerlain Vetiver - as it goes back to its 'roots' - pun intended).

    Good stuff, yes. Not a full bottle purchase for me as of right now, but worthy. I would consider the EdP/Extreme bottling of L'Instant only. However, I respect your input and know that this is a very popular scent. Again, I like it and respect what the Guerlain house has put forth. I have comparative reviews of L'Instant (EdT) and the Extreme (EdP) bottling on Fragrantica, if you (or anyone) is curious about my perspective.

    Cheers,

    ericrico


    Thanks Ericrico, I will have a look at your reviews.
    My main point really was the difference in quality between Lidge (and Lidg for me) and Guerlain Homme. One being a high quality contemporary frag and the other not, in keeping with the thread title.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    Guerlain Homme I'd see as the attempt to reach into the pockets of the modern, young man, perhaps to sell him some more classic Guerlains later on. It's not bad but if my small bottle ever was empty I'm not sure if I'd bother to replace it.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    Quote Originally Posted by ericrico View Post
    Hello martinijo -

    Yes, I listed a few of the classics that I adore and MdM is also a wonderful classic. However, L'Instant and its EdP (while good) are of very solid construction, of which I strongly prefer the EdP (the EdT pales in comparison) - they cannot ever evoke similar emotions and the level of pure olfactory enjoyment that the classics offer.

    To me, it shows the house is still competent in making new, more modern compositions that are of quality. They will, thankfully, continue to make profit - so the biggest "win" for me is that they will, hopefully, continue to make quality versions of the classics (as I happen to really adore the beauty in the latest bottle of Guerlain Vetiver - as it goes back to its 'roots' - pun intended).

    Good stuff, yes. Not a full bottle purchase for me as of right now, but worthy. I would consider the EdP/Extreme bottling of L'Instant only. However, I respect your input and know that this is a very popular scent. Again, I like it and respect what the Guerlain house has put forth. I have comparative reviews of L'Instant (EdT) and the Extreme (EdP) bottling on Fragrantica, if you (or anyone) is curious about my perspective.

    Cheers,

    ericrico
    A huge thankyou to everyone for your thoughts on these Guerlains ~ and thanks ericrico, I agree with you about the edt and edp versions of L'Instant pour Homme. In fact, I would go so far as to say that the edt version of L'Instant pour Homme is one Guerlain fragrance I strongly dislike, but I deliberately didn't include it on the list ~ partly because of the sheer bloody brilliance of the eau de parfum version. Personally, for me the edp version of L'Instant pour Homme attains a level of beauty rarely achieved in the world of perfumery. By contrast the edt version,(a totally different fragrance) sends me reeling. There is a Johnson and Johnson furniture wax note dominating the fragrance loud and clear, making it smell cheap and nasty. My love for the beast that is the edp kept me from listing the edt. When Guerlain gets it right, they get it perfect !
    " If you obey all the rules you miss all the fun ". Katharine Hepburn.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    David, my friend -

    You are truly welcome. Wonderful point you mention and interesting approach in not listing L'Instant EdT for the fact that the EdP is so good. When doing the side-by-side comparison...I, too, was taken back by both the depth, quality and richness in the EdP version, but also how poorly the EdT version performed directly next to it. It was sheer disappointment. Personally, I think Guerlain made a big mistake here and should've actually marketing LIDGE as an entirely different scent. I concur with your statements entirely. The house is still very capable (still a pinnacle of excellence) and I applaud them for maintaining the quality of the classics and also open new doors of olfactory pleasure with LIDGE.

    Very well said - LIDGE, to me, if full-bottle worthy after further test wearings...no doubt. I will have to become willing to put some more EdT on and look for that furniture wax note. It might pair nicely on a day when I am waxing my furniture...and I want a harmonious wearing of fragrance. ;-)

    Cheers - great thread. Thought-provoking as it made me step back and realize, perhaps once again, just how important the classic Guerlain bottlings were (and still are)...we'll see what Thierry Wasser contributes since becoming the in-house perfumer at 68 Champs Elysse in 2008. Beatrice Piquet was the nose behind L'Instant (both EdT and EdP) in 2004 and 2005, respectively. Her only other male scents of notice were the Original Trussardi Uomo way back in 1983 (over two decades earlier and a leather fist across the nose...a remarkable powerhouse scent) and a few mainstream releases for the David Beckham line in the 2005-2009 time frame. Rather remarkable that she even had the opportunity to shape LIDGE, let alone pour the beautiful creation into the bottle for the Guerlain house!

    Cheers,

    ericrico

    Quote Originally Posted by david View Post
    A huge thankyou to everyone for your thoughts on these Guerlains ~ and thanks ericrico, I agree with you about the edt and edp versions of L'Instant pour Homme. In fact, I would go so far as to say that the edt version of L'Instant pour Homme is one Guerlain fragrance I strongly dislike, but I deliberately didn't include it on the list ~ partly because of the sheer bloody brilliance of the eau de parfum version. Personally, for me the edp version of L'Instant pour Homme attains a level of beauty rarely achieved in the world of perfumery. By contrast the edt version,(a totally different fragrance) sends me reeling. There is a Johnson and Johnson furniture wax note dominating the fragrance loud and clear, making it smell cheap and nasty. My love for the beast that is the edp kept me from listing the edt. When Guerlain gets it right, they get it perfect !
    “Some perfumes are as fragrant as an infant’s flesh, sweet as an oboe’s cry, and greener than the spring; While others are triumphant, decadent or rich; Having the expansion of infinite things, like ambergris and musk, benzoin and frankincense, which sing the transports of the mind and every sense.”

    ― Charles Baudelaire, The Flowers of Evil & Paris Spleen

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    Quote Originally Posted by ericrico View Post
    Hello, my friend, David -

    I concur with your sentiments and realize that I will not like everything a house has to offer. It is like an argument in a relationship with someone you care so deeply about. Yet, in the end, you realize that you cannot change their mind...and they cannot change yours. So, sometimes, it is best to agree to disagree.




    From an epic house like Guerlain, I am a purist and love the older/traditional/vintage bottlings the most. So, for me...Guerlain's closest associations for me will always be Vetiver, Habit Rouge, Heritage, and Eau de Cologne Imperiale (Shalimar, Mitsuoko, and L'Heure Bleue for women).

    The recent releases by Guerlain, including Homme (and it various flankers) and even L'Instant don't feel "special" to me. While LIDGE is a competent fragrance, it doesn't capture any classicism for me - and it shouldn't. It is a contemporary scent of quality and very wearable - but it will never come before the hallmark scents.

    Cheers.

    ericrico

    Very fine! Thanks...

  11. #11
    vita odorifera
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    Default Re: Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    I like Homme, Homme Extreme, L'Eau Boisee and Habit Rouge Sport. These are not in the mould of the "usual" classic Guerlains but, IMO, departures from the perceived Guerlain path. I have learned the hard way not to approach frags with any expectation based on their (house) pedigree or provenance (except for quality, of course) but appreciate them on their own merit. The above frags smell good, IMO, but may disappoint some, not being olfactory homages to their classic forebears.
    ointments and perfume delight the heart....

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    Haven't tried their female scents mentioned on this thread, but my opinion about Guerlain Homme would be somewhat like: OK, but they can do better.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    Guerlain Homme is intended for the mass market. I am not sure it is even on display in the main Guerlain store in Paris (although I did not specifically look for it).

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    I share your sentiments, for the most part. Guerlain Homme is a rather generic smelling masculine intended to sell well. Jardins de Bagatelle is far too screechy and synthetic for me, although compared to Champs-Elysées it is not bad at all. Champs-Elysées is perhaps my least favorite Guerlain fragrance (I believe it was one of the first fragrances produced after the firm was purchased by LVMH). Idylle was Thierry Wasser's first fragrance for Guerlain; I never found it particularly compelling. It isn't terrible by any means, but it lacks that certain something that the classics share. The only fragrance that I think deserves another chance is La Petite Robe Noir. When I first tried it it didn't grab me, but I found myself revisiting it. A classic, sprawling, orchestral perfume it is not, but for a modern fruity-floral: not half bad!

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    I don't like any of those either. No worries, sometimes the 'new' Guerlain's just don't click with me.

    That's okay since there are many 'new' Guerlains that I love (Shaghai, L' Heure de Nuit, etc...).
    "One day I will find the right words, and they will be simple"

    -- Jack Kerouac

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    Default Re: Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    Agree with you that the classics are, or were pre-reformulation, on another planet. Special negative mention for the overexposed, synthetic Champs elysees. Luca Turin as usual hits the mark by suggesting that "it does well on the intended audience of trashy teens in Macau."

    cacio

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    Default Re: Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    Quote Originally Posted by david View Post
    I really admire this house ~ probably my favourite, along with Caron. I adore most of the range, however.....


    womens
    Jardins de Bagatelle
    Champs~Elysees
    Idylle
    La Petite Robe Noire

    I find them not up to the usual Guerlain high standard. Perhaps I'm missing something and someone can give me some insight !
    Thanks.
    i agree with you on all of the above except La Petite Robe Noire...its quality fragrance, nicely done BUT the idea is not at all original, they stole it from Yohji pour homme!! its licquorice note in the opening and kept it as the centre of the composition! and i like it! its above average generic production! the Guerlain nose may be nice man but i find him as copy cat ....but he is smart about keeping his job there, making safe moves , noone will say Guerlain copies...will be the other way around! what he is doing is making bombastic , loud, sweet powdery scents everything is very sweet what he does

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    Quote Originally Posted by iivanita View Post
    the Guerlain nose may be nice man but i find him as copy cat ....but he is smart about keeping his job there, making safe moves , noone will say Guerlain copies...will be the other way around! what he is doing is making bombastic , loud, sweet powdery scents everything is very sweet what he does
    Don't agree with this - it strikes me as a sweeping generalisation. Have you worn all the releases created by Wasser since he joined Guerlain?

    There are the more commercial releases that you can buy everywhere, the 'Guerlinade tributes' which could arguably be called sweet and powdery I suppose but that is the nature of that part of the house catalogue, and then there are the ones which do not reference anything in particular and each have quite a distinct personality. It's quite a varied portfolio for just a few years work. I don't like them all individually but I can see the intention and the particular demographic for each one and I don't see any one single perfumer who can match the versatility and the creativity required to encompass so much variation in such a relatively short space of time over the last five years or so.

    How would you describe L'Abeille 2010, Songe d'un Bois d'Ete, Myrhhe et Delires, Encens Mythique d'Orient?

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    Guerlain Homme isn't bad, smells better than most, but I don't want to own it. LVMH restrained them for a long time, but they realize they have to give Guerlain more freedom. As Bertrand Duchaufour said, "....they need to get back to their roots". And as Thierry Wasser said, doing that is difficult with the current IFRA regulations the way they are.

    Songe d'un Bois d'Ete
    is excellent, though, and there will be many more.
    Last edited by pluran; 19th January 2013 at 05:44 AM.

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    Default Re: Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    I agree with you. Nothing wrong with your impressions.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    I agree as well. I expected more out of GH as well.
    Is the juice worth the squeeze?

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    I'm not fond of any of the fragrances you mention either with the exception of La Petite Robe Noire which while definitely not being my cup of tea, it's a terrific example of how it's still possible to release a mainstremish and youthful composition avoiding dullness...


    Discover my Guest Reviewer Of The Day here

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    Default Re: Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    Champs Élysées is truly hideous. Smells the way a beaten dog looks.

  24. #24
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    Default Re: Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    First, you must like the guerlinade accord found in most Guerlain Fragrances, if you don't, than Guerlain as a house may not agree with you...

    Paul Kiler
    Last edited by pkiler; 19th January 2013 at 10:08 PM.

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    Default Re: Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    Don't agree with this - it strikes me as a sweeping generalisation. Have you worn all the releases created by Wasser since he joined Guerlain?

    There are the more commercial releases that you can buy everywhere, the 'Guerlinade tributes' which could arguably be called sweet and powdery I suppose but that is the nature of that part of the house catalogue, and then there are the ones which do not reference anything in particular and each have quite a distinct personality. It's quite a varied portfolio for just a few years work. I don't like them all individually but I can see the intention and the particular demographic for each one and I don't see any one single perfumer who can match the versatility and the creativity required to encompass so much variation in such a relatively short space of time over the last five years or so.

    How would you describe L'Abeille 2010, Songe d'un Bois d'Ete, Myrhhe et Delires, Encens Mythique d'Orient?
    mr reasonable:-) be reasonable, for 12 500 eur i buy a car not a perfume , especially from a nose who made so many terribly boring sweet scents:-)

    Lol, what i have said i based on what i have tried from him, i gave it chance 10 times then i loose interest and it never moved me at all, i could not understand how he got his position there, honestly:-) , shalimar initial is such a copycat too:-) he merged insolence and shalimar together , and got extremely sweet powdery scent that is much nicer then hypnose! But i cant wear it, makes me sick:-) , he is so predictable in a way :-) ,that saying i dont think shalimar initial is bad per se its good done ! But is copycat:-)
    ,
    Just my opinion that did not come over night, i don't have to generalise:-) nor you have to feel bad because you have your view on that:-)

    Oh and i like guerlain homme too!

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    First, you must like the guerlinade accord found in most Guerlain Fragrances, if you don't, than Guerlain as a house may not agree with you...

    Paul Kiler
    I dont find that accord in Mitsouko:-) , nor in cologne Imperiale hehe, nor in Apres L Ondee, Shalimar doesnt have it in EDT concentration as well, its woody base.....eau de guerlain hm is sweetish, habit rouge? Shares something with Shalimar base, and L heure bleue with shalimar and apres l ondee.....btw using the same accord for so many perfumes is also pointing that they dont take time to develope completely new and original accords:-) .......i dont believe it anyway....but a new nose must be able to create something that is his own:-) his own style, if he goes copying old Guerlain what art is that? I look at perfumes that way
    Last edited by iivanita; 19th January 2013 at 11:59 PM.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    While i dont like Homme that much i do like Homme Intense a lot.
    And i own homme and not homme intense, go figure!

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    Default Re: Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    I bought the Homme Intense and had to send it back. The mojito was just too sweet for me and something I could not enjoy.

    I'll just stay with LIDGE.
    Last edited by RedRaider430; 21st January 2013 at 10:43 PM.

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    Default Re: Guerlain's I don't understand....and your advice.

    Guerlain Homme is my favorite Guerlain, other than Guerlain Homme L'Eau. It feels modern, clean, and different from typical mainstream fragrances of the same vein. I thoroughly enjoy the Mojito note and feel the quality is very good. I think some will unfairly criticize its "quality" when in fact it's just a style of fragrance they don't like personally. It's a way to try to sound more credible than simply saying "I don't like it," which is all that's really necessary in the first place. I've owned Heritage and Homme. I've worn both many times and and can not say that the quality of one is better than the other.

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