Thread: Living Jasmine Accord
This accord is based off of the GC/MS analysis of the Sacred Jasmine Sambac Absolute offered by Hermitage Oils. This accord literally smells like a Jasmine flower in full blossom. I did the math and made the analysis equal to 100%. Enjoy!
Hey Chris, knowing that you raved over this, have you tried blending the analysis?
Cis 3 Hexanol- 0.19%
Hexenyl Cis 3 Acetate- 0.32%
Benzyl Alcohol- 4.74%
Methyl Benzoate- 0.42%
Laevo(!) Linalool- 17.40% (Purchase from TGSC)
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol- 0.13%
Linalool (Dextro if you can source it, but regular will work also)- 0.37%
Benzyl Acetate- 64.02%
Menthol Crystals- 0.22%
Linalyl Acetate- 0.90%
Benzyl Propionate- 0.70%
Methyl Anthranilate- 3.37%
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde- 0.96%
Benzyl Benzoate- 3.64%
If you absolutely cannot obtain Laevo Linalool, Feel free to replace Laevo with the racemic mix (regular) Linalool. It will not be as strong though. Laevo Linalool has an odor threshold that is 10 times lower than Dextro Linalool and the ratio of each isomer in regular Linalool is unknown. Last point, using Laevo Linalool will give you a more true to life Jasmine.
Last edited by BAGreat; 7th June 2014 at 06:07 AM.
More info on Linalool and its isomers.
Interesting! I'm on the fence about making it, as I am allergic to Jasmine(s)... hmmm...
Last edited by pkiler; 11th June 2014 at 06:16 AM.
Do it! Do it! Do it! *cheers*, you will enjoy it Paul. Take my word for it. Just please keep it away from your skin. I believe you have contact dermatitis from Benzyl Acetate, Benzoate, Salicylate etc. Are you allergic to Tuberose also? Also big point to mention, this accord is mainly a top to mid note with a mothball drydown due to the indole. You can leave the Indole out if you want a clean Jasmine top note to brighten up your white flower EO's and Absolutes.
Is there a different indole with a better drydown, something more fecal? Perhaps Chris could comment on the drydown note of the sambac absolute? I'll wager it's not mothball.
Thank you so much! That is informative.
If you have problems getting laevo Linalol, try using Ho Oil which is pretty much the same thing. The main problem with reconstructing anything with a lot of Indole in it, is the Indole. Commercially produced Indole is never as clean and pure (strange descriptors, I know) as the stuff that a plant produces. There are always "off" notes. Try using less.
By the way, pure Benzyl Acetate is not regarded as an allergen (I don't think), but the Benzyl Alcohol always present, is.
BA, have you made this accord yourself?
https://www.aftelier.com/indole-2-percent.html (I can't find anyone else doing it) is said to have "none of that mothball feel ... instead, it was very toasted and earthy with a waxy, fleshy quality that was highly appealing and yet also oddly off-putting."
So use the amount of regular indole that doesn't mothball, which is the closest you can get to nature anyway. Then make up the difference with indolarome, puchased from Paul.
Another idea is to GC-MS different jasmine absoutes for the highest indole content, and use that one as your natural, since that is the aspect which is hardest to recreate synthetically.
Another idea is to add skatole to the indole in trace amounts, or civettone, or civet, or an ambergris note. Here, you are looking at it as an "indole accord."
Or pull an A. Crowley trick, and add some of your own organic indole. Ha ha. If you don't get it, I'm not going to explain it.
Last edited by DrSmellThis; 7th June 2014 at 10:46 PM.
I have prepared 100 grams of this accord using standard Linalool. I am selling it for $45 shipped via priority mail.
PerfumersWorld supply linalool( linalool with citrus and woody notes ) and linalool synthetic ( pure linalool smell ) and they have also Ho oil ( but i afraid the camphor note will kill the accord ). Can you suggest me what linalool source should i choose ?
When I checked the link nemenator posted, Mandy Aftel was no longer offering her natural indole, but is offering what appears to be most likely laevo-linalool, as it's extracted from ho wood. I'll probably order some. That's the only source I was able to find at the moment.
Well, a Jasmine sambac absolute GC/MS with Hedione, cinnamic aldehyde, menthol, and linalyl acetate, and everything reported being a readily-available inexpensive ingredient, which is unusual. It also has no cis-3-benzyl benzoate. Still further there's no methyl jasmone, jasmone, farnesene, geranyllinallol, germacra-1-dien-4-ol, or phytol, though with these last few often some will not be seen in a given GC/MS.
In other words, expected signature elements of jasmine sambac are not there, and elements showing synthetic origin are there, at least to my understanding which is fallible. Please take it as personal thought only.
I would never question the olfactory quality of Hermitage's products nor their integrity in believing products are what they say they are and in having diligently pursued appropriate documentation and evidence from their suppliers, so having good basis for their belief. That is not my point, if there is an issue here I have every confidence it is not with them. And to say the least I applaud them for providing the GC/MS. But personally I don't feel the details of it let me take this GC/MS as being representative of jasmin sambac absolute. I would be more than willing to buy it though if the price were right, as I trust that even if it's a a base, it's an excellent one. I intend this only as suggestion to consider the GC/MS carefully before assuming it to refer accurately to the composition of natural product jasmine sambac.
I would more than welcome correction if any of what I suggest should not be there in fact can, or what I suggest should be there but isn't, can in fact not be.
Last edited by Bill Roberts; 16th August 2014 at 02:05 AM.
I tried making this accord by volume, instead of weight ( I know this is not correct)...I found that the benzyl acetate was still extremely overpowering and harsh. The accord was not soft/floral at all...Did you find much better results when doing it by weight? I always seem to run into trouble regarding my abilty to blend benzyl acetate into accords How long did you let your accord age/blend? or did it smell like real jasmine as soon as you were done building this?
I'd say try it with half the Benzyl acetate and see what you like...?
I expect it would move it to a fruitier jasmine direction, but a possibility to try would be substituting some of the benzyl acetate with benzyl propionate. While usually GC/MS's don't show benzyl propionate in jasmine, apparently at least one has done so ( https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...73231344,d.b2U ) finding benzyl propionate at about 9.7% and benzyl acetate at about 26.1%.
Although of course there's no stated evidence that the GC/MS of the above scientific article was of authentic essential oil: it was simply a particular commercial product.
I don't think aging or lack of will be the problem here.
It's also already in the above base but at a lower percentage (propanoate is same as propionate.)
Also another idea you can look at is that personally (no information or idea on whether many or any others think or do the same) I often prefer to totally omit certain items from bases, as I'd rather adjust them individually as part of the entire formula. An example would be methyl salicylate. I might build the base with it, and do some work with the base having it, but at some point I may also have a version without the methyl salicylate, and add that ingredient only relative to the entire formula. With your feelings on benzyl acetate, you might try the same. Perhaps adding it in as a last or late step will work better for you.
EDIT: As another thought, perhaps there are different grades of benzyl acetate available. For example, if a given material had a significant amount of unreacted acetic anhydride, it would certainly be sharp. (If synthesized that way: I don't know that it is commercially.) Coincidentally Brechbill's book was brought up recently: he does give different odor descriptions to different grades. I'd guess this is unlikely if you obtained it from a widely used aromachemicals source, but as there was no mention, maybe it's a possibility.
Last edited by Bill Roberts; 17th August 2014 at 07:38 AM.
Here's also a sort of analogue to Benzyl Acetate, is the acetone, Benzyl Acetone, it's not as shrill, but still the same odor profile, or darn close...
Thanks for all your help. Im using benzyl acetate sourced from the perfumers apprentice, so I would imagine grade should not be an issue. Ive had 3 separate bottles from them, all at different time periods and they all smell the same to me.
What Im finding a little puzzling is the ability for the jasmine flower to synthesize its own oil and release it into the air almost as one seamless note...with little differential between top middle and base notes...(to my untrained nose)
However, when I build an accord of my own, it seems as if the benzyl acetate is jumping off first, leaving the softer base notes behind.
Bill, as you suggested, I think I will create a base that omits the benzyl acetate, and only use it when I find it useful in the full formula.