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  1. #1

    Question Which classic frags have survived IFRA - if any?

    In spite of IFRA regs, there are still some really beautiful frags out there, though maybe not for ever as IFRA bites ever deeper. For now, though, which scents (especially classics like L'Heure Bleue and Mitsouko) do you think are still great - if any?
    Personally, I don't like either of those gorgeous vintage scents in their reformulated versions. They just don't smell like themselves any more. But I do like Samsara - maybe because I didn't know the original version, just a recent EdP which I was given by my daughter.
    Also, some houses, like Grossmith and Amouage, produce very high quality scents in spite of the new restrictions. I'm currently wearing Shem el Nessim, which I love.
    I'm curious about what other treasures, old or new, might be out there? I especially like florals and floral orientals, so would love to hear of any I might have missed for sampling and decant trying. Any suggestions much appreciated.
    Last edited by redrose; 27th January 2013 at 01:18 PM. Reason: punctuation error

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Which classic frags have survived IFRA - if any?

    I'm not looking for re-creations. Currently I have some good vintage aldehydes and chypres, notably Antilope and Miss Balmain, respectively. One of these days, I will simply have to explore new fragrances that are created under the current restrictions. One can boo-hoo or one can move on, which is not to say I agree with IFRA at all. I can buy bullets but not oakmoss—to riff on current events? Please.
    What do insomniac perfumers do to fall asleep? They count chypres!

  3. #3

    Default Re: Which classic frags have survived IFRA - if any?

    Tabac Blond, En Avion, Jicky. Vol de Nuit, albeit changed, one could also think it was positively modernized.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Which classic frags have survived IFRA - if any?

    The list gets shorter by the day. As we wait for the next flower to go, one has to concentrate on the tiny set of florals that did not contain jasmine, carnation, or heliotropin. Carnation means the demise of several Carons, which, pace our Larimar, had been tamed anyway by the current perfumer. Jasmine means the demise of the old Amouages - I suspect that's part (but not all) of the reason for the watering down of Gold woman and Tribute (my Gold man still smells fantastic, but likely it is from pre-IFRA); Ubar has reportedly been weakened too, according to Larimar. Incidentally, the Sarrasins I smelled at the Lutens store last winter was still glorious; perhaps it's old stock - in any case, it may be worth stocking up before the jasmine restriction hits that too.

    Not much left, Arpege comes to mind, the formula has changed over time for non-IFRA reasons. Some green florals (eg Cristalle), but not all (Chamade is weaker too, likely not for IFRA reasons, but who knows).

    Some leathers and some orientals appear so far to have suffered less (Knize Ten, Shalimar), perhaps because there are reasonable substitutes to the forbidden materials. But Bandit will be reformulated as well, so that area is in danger too.

    cacio

  5. #5

    Default Re: Which classic frags have survived IFRA - if any?

    Making it rough for us basenoters!

  6. #6

    Default Re: Which classic frags have survived IFRA - if any?

    Diaghilev
    Tabac Blond
    En Avion
    n'Aimez Que Moi

    for swap/sale:





  7. #7

    Default Re: Which classic frags have survived IFRA - if any?

    Diaghilev
    Tabac Blond
    En Avion
    n'Aimez Que Moi

    for swap/sale:





  8. #8

    Default Re: Which classic frags have survived IFRA - if any?

    Diaghilev
    Tabac Blond
    En Avion
    n'Aimez Que Moi

    for swap/sale:





  9. #9
    Basenotes Junkie SirNosebleed's Avatar
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    Default Re: Which classic frags have survived IFRA - if any?

    I'm loving the current formulations of Jicky EDT and Arpege EDP. I just bought a new bottle of Estee Lauder's Azurre, and it smells fantastic.

    Why do some of the chypre's still smell so great after the restriction on oakmoss?

  10. #10

    Default Re: Which classic frags have survived IFRA - if any?

    Sirnose:

    good point on some chypre surviving better than others. To me, leather chypres have survived better (Cabochard and Tabac Blond having been ruined, but not by IFRA). My guess is that the chypre aspect is less important in them and substitutes for oakmoss work ok. Another category where some examples still exist is green chypres (Cristalle, Private Collection, Tiare), again, perhaps because the moss is not so central (but then, Givenchy III fell apart).

    cacio

  11. #11

    Default Re: Which classic frags have survived IFRA - if any?

    Difficult in many cases to attribute changes to IFRA regulations with certainty.
    Companies have so many reasons to change formulae, e.g. availability of materials, focus-group feedback etc.
    Not to deny the impact of, say, oakmoss restrictions, but I imagine the situation is a complex one.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Which classic frags have survived IFRA - if any?

    Agree with most of the above and I'll add Sous Le Vent.


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  13. #13
    Lean in closer, dear
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    Default Re: Which classic frags have survived IFRA - if any?

    Good question. Good responses by the most-revered BNers.

    Is it mainly because we're in the female forum that femme fumes are being mentioned as compromised? Are men's scents less affected because they're weighted toward hesperides and woody notes?

  14. #14

    Default Re: Which classic frags have survived IFRA - if any?

    This is a gorgeous 'chypre' with no oakmoss, which is probably being replicated by various musks together with green notes.
    http://www.grossmithlondon.com/colle...den-chypre.php

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