If considering only fragrances released within the past couple years I don't think it is possible with the ingredient restrictions to do a true chypre to any large degree, but with that stipulation mine would have to be Tzora by Anat Fritz.
Edit: As folk are just listing their favorite Chypres of all-time, then I might as list mine... Without a doubt it is vintage Monsieur de Givenchy.
Last edited by drseid; 28th January 2013 at 12:58 PM.
Current Top Favorites:
1) Portrait of a Lady original formula (EdP Frédéric Malle)
2) Giorgio for Men vintage/V.I.P. for Men (Giorgio Beverly Hills)
3) Dia Man vintage edt (Amouage)
4) Anat Fritz Original Formula and Classical (Anat Fritz) - tie
4) Lalfeorosa (O'driù) - tie
6) Les Nombres d'Or Vetyver (Mona di Orio)
7) Captain vintage (Molyneux)
8) Tzora (Anat Fritz)
9) Javanese Patchouli (Zegna) - tie
9) Monsieur de Givenchy vintage (Givenchy) - tie
9) Coeur de Vetiver Sacré (L'Artisan) - tie
9) X for Men (Clive Christian) - tie
9) Patou pour Homme Privé (Jean Patou) - tie
9) Oud Shamash (The Different Company) - tie
Scents along the lines of Boucheron pour Homme (both EDT and EDP), Francesco Smalto pour Homme, Versace l'Homme, Aramis Tuscany, among the female scents: Le Dix By Balenciaga and Chanel No. 19 in any given concentration and formulation.
Gucci Pour Homme Original (1976) - timeless, masculine and beautiful...
“Some perfumes are as fragrant as an infant’s flesh, sweet as an oboe’s cry, and greener than the spring; While others are triumphant, decadent or rich; Having the expansion of infinite things, like ambergris and musk, benzoin and frankincense, which sing the transports of the mind and every sense.”
― Charles Baudelaire, The Flowers of Evil & Paris Spleen
The Liberal Left politicians and regulators want to protect the world from anything that may be unpleasant. Oakmoss is such an integral part of Fragrances, but God-forbid someone may react to it. They put warning labels on foods that may contain nuts to warn people with allergies, why not fragrances? We hear of some poor unfortunate person who is injured from misusing a product, and so the product is banned, or forced to change. The world is full of risks, we cannot regulate them away.
the liberal left politicians and regulators want to protect the world from anything that may be unpleasant. Oakmoss is such an integral part of fragrances, but god-forbid someone may react to it. They put warning labels on foods that may contain nuts to warn people with allergies, why not fragrances? We hear of some poor unfortunate person who is injured from misusing a product, and so the product is banned, or forced to change. The world is full of risks, we cannot regulate them away.
The regulations or restrictions that y'all are complaining about are imposed from within the industry and have nothing to do with politicians. Please let's keep politics out of basenotes.
Actually, Jonty the IFRA bows to regulations from the EU - as I understand it the restrictions and banning recommendations are coming from a body set-up by the EU in much the same way as FDA works in the US. I think to deny that lobbyists for synthetic and chemical products do not influence the 'scientists' employed by the EU and some of the remarkably stupid decisions being made is maybe a bit naive - please don't take that personally and I certainly have no desire to get into politics here but this is a fact. The IFRA only now seems to have woken up to the fact that whereas in the beginning these restrictions made it easier for the IFRA members (the leading aromachemical companies like IFF, Givaudan, Symrise etc. who make over 60% of the perfumes we talk about here) to discard costly and irregular supplies of natural ingredients from farmers and growers all over the world for patented molecules that each member developed and controlled, the EU boffins clearly want to keep their jobs and are now saying stuff that is essential (both natural and synthetic) should be banned - hence the recent press about the demise of Chanel N0.5 and 'the end of perfumery'. It's a mix of political and monopolistic tendencies that is driving this mess.
As far as chypres are concerned I agree with most of the above and will add Vintage Acqua di Parma Profumo if it hasn't already been mentioned but in terms of chypres from the last couple of years I don't think they are any because of the oak moss restrictions - maybe Diaghalev?
The only perfume that has made an impression on me as being redolent of a a true chypre - executed with a sleight of hand that really is quite amazing - is Mon Parfum Cherie par Camille from Annick Goutal. Despite the name it is a robust chypre style piece of work (using patchouli) that has a slightly bitter edge like Aromatics Elixir and I would recommend it to anyone looking for something in this genre. I prefer the EDT over the EDP, myself.
Forgot to add 31 Rue Cambon. Not as chypre as it could be, both an excellent fragrance, that has the intelligence and wordly experience of the great chypres.
I only included what I wear with any regularity. I wear Bandit every once in awhile, so I'll include it. One of the best ever. I don't really wear them, but the same goes for Enlevement au Serail, Aromatics Elixir, Futur, vintage No. 19 edt, etc. Jubilation 25 is also surprisingly excellent. And smelling the Knize Ten in the great Chinatown is always a trip.
Last edited by pluran; 3rd February 2013 at 09:31 PM.