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  1. #31
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    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    I read this tonight. It doesn't sound like Denyse is that thrilled with it, or is that just my interpretation of her review? I think, from her description, it sounds like something right up my alley. I am really excited to smell it. Anything that says it has real Mysore sandalwood sounds intriguing.
    "All problems are illusions of the mind."

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  2. #32

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    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    I smelled it on Saturday. Nice but it didn't blow me away. Very sweet, woody, milky, spicy. Of course, I don't have the most sophisticated nose, but what's left on the card reminds me of M7 but with a bit of cream.

    And nothing jumped out at me to scream "real Mysore sandalwood." This is from someone who used to wear the oil daily as a perfume and misses it like crazy.

  3. #33

    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    Quote Originally Posted by Kagey View Post
    I smelled it on Saturday. Nice but it didn't blow me away. Very sweet, woody, milky, spicy. Of course, I don't have the most sophisticated nose, but what's left on the card reminds me of M7 but with a bit of cream.

    And nothing jumped out at me to scream "real Mysore sandalwood." This is from someone who used to wear the oil daily as a perfume and misses it like crazy.
    Does it share anything with Costume National's 21 ? Sweet and milky is what I get from "21"

  4. #34
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    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    Thanks Kagey
    "All problems are illusions of the mind."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  5. #35
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    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    The description sounds amazing.

  6. #36

    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    Judging by Denyse and Kagey's comments still sounding very interesting to me, Mike . . .

    I used to wear pure oil in the 70's Kagey, and my nose is pretty finely attuned to mysore. Always on the lookout! I look forward to this regardless because even without any discernible mysore it sounds like my kinda thing, anyway and I doubt Malle would let anything sub-par slip thru, particularly given this is the launch of a diffusion line for him. And I am absolutely sure he wouldn't quote mysore from a sustainable Indian source in the press release if there wasn't at least SOME of the stuff in there somewhere

    Several people described Santal Massoia as 'milky' as well - I like that one enough for 'what it is' but personally I think that was a misnomen, even if it does contain the Australian sandalwood - there is absolutely no resemblance IMO and I have compared both EO's over a few days.

    Let's see.

  7. #37

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    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    Quote Originally Posted by hawk View Post
    Does it share anything with Costume National's 21 ? Sweet and milky is what I get from "21"
    Sorry, hawk - I'm not familiar with 21.

    I can't wait to hear what others think when they try it. My assessment is probably totally off base. I didn't find it too similar to Santal Massoia, though. But I don't have the vocabulary to articulate it properly!

  8. #38

    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    I would like to try it, but another tanka/vanilla frag doesn't excite me and I hope it doesn't steal the show.
    Is the juice worth the squeeze?

  9. #39

    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    A spice (with cinnamon!) sandalwood always perks my ears up. I'm with Mike, a sample that I am looking forward too.
    Last edited by cello; 19th February 2013 at 05:16 PM.
    Currently wearing: Bois des les by Chanel

  10. #40

    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    Sniffed it briefly yesterday : lactonic, sweet, with citrus in the opening and a balsam like accord. Anyone expecting a real Mysore sandalwood fragrance will, I fear, be disappointed. Might appeal to fans of P.G.'s Cadjmr.
    Ultimately too sweet for my taste.

  11. #41

    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    Thanks gandhajala.
    for swap/sale:



  12. #42
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    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    I was very excited with this new mysore sandalwood but I feel that this fragrance is going to be a huge disappointment to me...

  13. #43
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    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    Malle "collaborating" with a fashion designer? This might be the end of the line.
    -

  14. #44

    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    thanks for the head up gandhajala,

    a friend also tried this and was left disappointing as well, it lack the uniqueness of the "old" Malle line, and is nothing unusual,

    nevertheless, still looking forward to sample this
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  15. #45

    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    Scalpel

    Incision

    Forceps

    Laparoscopy

    Maneuver through mass amounts of wood, plethora of musk and a flower held in suspense to arrive at

    DNA traces of :

    Last edited by hedonist222; 4th March 2013 at 04:06 PM.
    for swap/sale:



  16. #46

    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    Quote Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post

    Sorry I'm ignorant, what is that? ^^^

    Have to say I haven't smelled this either, but from what I've heard, it's nothing to get excited about.

  17. #47

    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    Quote Originally Posted by gtsb View Post
    Sorry I'm ignorant, what is that? ^^^

    Have to say I haven't smelled this either, but from what I've heard, it's nothing to get excited about.

    released before its time - put down gracefully


    http://www.basenotes.net/ID10211785.html
    for swap/sale:



  18. #48

    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    Thanks... hmm that actually sounds pretty interesting... maybe I'll swing by Malle and give it a try.

  19. #49
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    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    hedonist, is it as milky as the Issey Miyake?
    "All problems are illusions of the mind."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  20. #50
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    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    hedonist, is it as milky as the Issey Miyake?
    Yes, please. I'd like to know, too.

  21. #51
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    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    It's a milky sandalwood with the sweetness of Jeux de Peau, from what I could smell on the card.
    Kurt smells like Teen Spirit

  22. #52

    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    I would call this perfume Dior's Dolce Vita for men. Top notes of citrus with the base of sandalwood.
    It's more intellectual than beautiful. Word ,,beautiful" does not suit to this masculine perfume without sillage.
    It's not sweet at all, perfectly balanced. Could be a sandalwood prominent scent for a man who does not like woody perfumes.
    It has some ,,smoke, burn - milky, nutty" idea from Geranium pour Monsieur or Portrait of a lady.
    I am not a big fan of woody scents, though on me it smells very good.
    Haven't smelled anything similar to this perfume, some associations could be found with CD Dolce Vita, Costume National Homme, Portrait of a lady, Guerlain Samsara.
    Bruno Jovanovic is the future ,,Dominique Ropion".
    Last edited by DreamerII; 18th March 2013 at 05:27 AM.
    "PLAIN LIVING, HIGH THINKING" O.W., De Profundis
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    Real beauty: 1) Frederic Malle 1-20 2) Chanel Egoiste 3) YSL Opium pour Homme edp 4) Guerlain Habit Rouge 5) TF Noir de Noir \\ Noses: 1) Jacques Cavallier 2) Maurice Roucel

  23. #53

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    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    Quote Originally Posted by DreamerII View Post
    I would call this perfume Dior's Dolce Vita for men. Top notes of citrus with the base of sandalwood.
    It's more intellectual than beautiful. Word ,,beautiful" does not suit to this masculine perfume without sillage.
    It's not sweet at all, perfectly balanced. Could be a sandalwood prominent scent for a man who does not like woody perfumes.
    It has some ,,smoke, burn - milky, nutty" idea from Geranium pour Monsieur or Portrait of a lady.
    I am not a big fan of woody scents, though on me it smells very good.
    Not sweet at all?! You and I definitely didn't smell the same perfume! I found this overwhelmingly sweet, and very milky-woody.

  24. #54

    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    Quote Originally Posted by Kagey View Post
    Not sweet at all?! You and I definitely didn't smell the same perfume! I found this overwhelmingly sweet, and very milky-woody.
    same here
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  25. #55

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    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    I'm going to come out now, hands up, and say I'm sorry I sort of dissed this fragrance.

    I'm not sure if it's the long, relentless winter we've been having or some weird new change in my taste, but I've been craving warm, woody, spicy, ambery scents in the worst way. I saw Dries Van Noten mentioned in another thread, so I dug out the card I'd sprayed a few weeks back. It still had quite a bit of presence and I thought I'd like to test it.

    Went to Les Senteurs on Saturday, got a sample, and wore it that evening out with friends. This time it blew me away. I'm not very good at describing fragrances, but what I noticed was that on a card it was very elegant. Well-blended, elegant, and sophisticated. In this way it reminded me of the best Chanels. Seamless and beautiful, but not necessarily warm or friendly. Aloof. You might appreciate it but you're not moved by it.

    On skin, it was a different story entirely. It became warm and friendly. It seemed to embrace me. It became comforting. The notes are still sweet and milky, a bit nutty and spicy. If you put your nose close to your skin after about 20 minutes in, you clearly get the caramelized biscuit smell peeking through. I liked that because, although I'm not a big gourmand lover, I felt like that was the thing that broke through the aloofness and made it more human and playful.

    Others have said that the projection is very low and that's true. I kept smelling it wafting up around me, but it didn't project. There's something sheer about it and I think it will work in warm weather. Yet it was really persistent; I could smell it on my arm the next morning, and it lingers on clothes.

    Also, I still didn't really detect the Mysore sandalwood (it's a smell I'd know anywhere). I'm ok with that.

    Finished the sample today and bought a 100ml bottle. I've either gone completely mad or I've come closer than ever to finding the one perfume that could make me sell up and be faithful. Actually, that's unlikely, but it's close!

    Anyhow, sorry for the lame report, but I thought I should correct my unfair earlier assessment.

  26. #56

    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    DRIES VAN NOTEN PAR FREDERIC MALLE

    Over the last few days I have worn this mega-dosed, with enough sprays to make some of the grown men here faint, and also with just a spritz to each wrist, to see how it performs.

    This one will confuse a lot of people, but if you are familiar with the fashion line, maybe not.

    It does not have a ‘wow’ opening – the brief tingle of bergamot is barely detectable as a note per se, and the moist, slightly lactose nutty accord is reminiscent of standing near the counter and catching that hint of steam coming off a coffee machine finishing off a hazelnut latt or something along those lines. It is not a ‘grab ‘em at the counter so they buy it quick’ approach – if anything, the opening is a little odd, although the underlying quality beckons, you can detect something worth sticking round for.

    A few minutes in things settle down and this is where it really does conjure up the mood of a friendly old style caf with its lived in aroma of pastries, hot beverages, even old books and wood, offering a familiar ‘safe haven’ from the world outside. It’s not a full on gourmand, actually it’s a really pleasant, understated vibe – more of an ‘ambient scent’ than a perfume, which suits me fine.

    The much vaunted Mysore sandalwood (Santalum Album grown in Australia for IFF, as opposed to the native Australian variety) is not overt but I do get a sense of it in there somewhere - it melds nicely with the mildly gourmand accord and stays close for a good few hours.

    Dries van Noten par Frederic Malle performs in a similar way to Vetiver Tonka for me, albeit a little more quietly – a perfect companion for quietly navigating life, especially when traveling, where stangers and events are whizzing by and I am in my own space ‘inside, looking out’. I would recommend trying it on a scarf or inside of a favourite relaxed jacket or similar item – something from Dries van Noten would do the trick nicely ☺


    Very happy with this, glad I bought it while the weather is still coolish.

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    I look forward to this regardless because even without any discernible mysore it sounds like my kinda thing, anyway and I doubt Malle would let anything sub-par slip thru, particularly given this is the launch of a diffusion line for him. And I am absolutely sure he wouldn't quote mysore from a sustainable Indian source in the press release if there wasn't at least SOME of the stuff in there somehwere.
    Malle wasn't here this time but his representative for the launch explained that IFF have shares in a source for Santalum Album being grown outside of India in a couple of locales, Australia being one of them. Hope we see more info about this and more of the stuff being reintroduced in fragrances. Crabtree & Evelyn . . . Are you reading this? Hallo!

  27. #57
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    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    Looking forward to trying it.

  28. #58
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    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    My bottle should be arriving any day now.

  29. #59

    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    Quote Originally Posted by Kagey View Post
    I'm going to come out now, hands up, and say I'm sorry I sort of dissed this fragrance.

    I'm not sure if it's the long, relentless winter we've been having or some weird new change in my taste, but I've been craving warm, woody, spicy, ambery scents in the worst way. I saw Dries Van Noten mentioned in another thread, so I dug out the card I'd sprayed a few weeks back. It still had quite a bit of presence and I thought I'd like to test it.

    Went to Les Senteurs on Saturday, got a sample, and wore it that evening out with friends. This time it blew me away. I'm not very good at describing fragrances, but what I noticed was that on a card it was very elegant. Well-blended, elegant, and sophisticated. In this way it reminded me of the best Chanels. Seamless and beautiful, but not necessarily warm or friendly. Aloof. You might appreciate it but you're not moved by it.

    On skin, it was a different story entirely. It became warm and friendly. It seemed to embrace me. It became comforting. The notes are still sweet and milky, a bit nutty and spicy. If you put your nose close to your skin after about 20 minutes in, you clearly get the caramelized biscuit smell peeking through. I liked that because, although I'm not a big gourmand lover, I felt like that was the thing that broke through the aloofness and made it more human and playful.

    Others have said that the projection is very low and that's true. I kept smelling it wafting up around me, but it didn't project. There's something sheer about it and I think it will work in warm weather. Yet it was really persistent; I could smell it on my arm the next morning, and it lingers on clothes.

    Also, I still didn't really detect the Mysore sandalwood (it's a smell I'd know anywhere). I'm ok with that.

    Finished the sample today and bought a 100ml bottle. I've either gone completely mad or I've come closer than ever to finding the one perfume that could make me sell up and be faithful. Actually, that's unlikely, but it's close!

    Anyhow, sorry for the lame report, but I thought I should correct my unfair earlier assessment.
    Glad you took a second look - a spritz on a card can be helpful but seldom definitive. I think your description of the performance is spot on - I wore it for a week solid and like many more subtly crafted works I needed time to 'habituate' myself to the thing. A couple of days I overdosed and it still seemed quite fleeting (albeit 'there') and more recently I have found a couple of sprays and it's there like a long lost friend.

    I want to investigate this business with IFF and this new Santalum Album source - the Malle rep did not have a deep inside track but it seems IFF own, or have a stake in, plantations outside India and my guess is that Malle, as an ex-IFF employee and now client, was one of the first to access what they are doing with it. The shape of this perfume seems to have been dictated by DvN and has taken the more cosy gourmand route so a sandalwood showpiece it ain't, but it is one of the first to come along in a long time that I have bonded with as a potential personal staple - Vetiver Tonka and L'Heure Fougueuse were the last to have that effect for me . . . but I digress.

    I just hope this IFF thing is the beginning of some potential sandalwood 're-reformulations' where the stuff gets put back in a few personal favourites!

  30. #60

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    Default Re: NEW from Frdric Malle, "Dries Van Noten par Frdric Malle"

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    I want to investigate this business with IFF and this new Santalum Album source - the Malle rep did not have a deep inside track but it seems IFF own, or have a stake in, plantations outside India and my guess is that Malle, as an ex-IFF employee and now client, was one of the first to access what they are doing with it.
    Yes, interesting, and please let us know what you find out in your investigation.

    I've also been reading a few things recently about industries that depend on "terroir," like coffee and wine, for example, being affected by climate change. I wonder if anyone's considered the possible effects on the quality or availability of sandalwood or other natural perfume ingredients.

    And good point about the shape of the perfume and the fact that the design was intentional!

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