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  1. #1

    Default furze / gorse flower aromachemical or essential oil ?

    Hi there! My first post in Fragrance DIY :-)

    I havent ordered a thing yet, but eyeing up the perfume apprentice kits and a few other sites and reading here and on yahoo perfume making group, thinking of having a go at making my own perfume.

    Forgive me if this is a silly question, but is there such thing as a furze / gorse flower aromachemical or essential oil? I know lush has a perfume called furze, but it is only styled on the flower using coconut and other notes.

    Any advice appreciated?

  2. #2

    Default Re: furze / gorse flower aromachemical or essential oil ?

    I've heard about Gorse, but never been able to find it as a refined product to use in Fragrances... Hence, I don't really know what it smells like...

    It falls into the curiosity pile of things to buy...

    I can't comment on the Lush frag, since I've not smelled it either.

    OH! Welcome to DIY Basenotes!
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    Gold Medal for "Best Aroma"; Los Angeles Artisan Fragrance Salon

  3. #3

    Default Re: furze / gorse flower aromachemical or essential oil ?

    I have never smelled or even heard of an extract of Furze or Gorse, I'm afraid.

  4. #4

    Default Re: furze / gorse flower aromachemical or essential oil ?

    I don't think it's commercially available even now but you can read a 1960s description of such an extract here.

    By the way, have you ever smelled gorse up close? I remember seeing big yellow swathes of it while looking out the window of the car when I was younger (in Clare I think). Only found out what it was recently. I'm not familiar with the smell at all.

  5. #5

    Default Re: furze / gorse flower aromachemical or essential oil ?

    Well I have smelt gorse - the cliffs of the Gower in South Wales are covered in it and I used to walk them all the time when I lived nearby. It has a wonderful smell, but I've never seen an absolute for sale nor smelt one. It appears that despite Arctander's enthusiastic endorsement this is a material that has not caught on. Possibly because it is difficult to harvest due to the incredibly thorny bushes the flowers grow on, which must make manual harvesting a nightmare and mechanical extraction would be very difficult because the flower tend to be relatively low in the bush, surrounded by thorny greenery that would spoil the extract if not removed.

    The nearest equivalent would be Genet or Broom, the flowers of which smell somewhat similar, though in my opinion not quite as sweet and transparent as Gorse, there is an absolute of Genet available, which can be used in perfumery and is very nice, but as usual with these things does not really capture the scent of the flowers.

    I can't think of a synthetic that directly imitates Gorse either, but you could try the Firmenich Berberis Base - some of the Berberis species have flowers that smell very like gorse, though to be honest I think the base is rather too blackcurrant, it might be a place to start.
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  6. #6

    Default Re: furze / gorse flower aromachemical or essential oil ?

    Thank you all for your advice!

    Chis, thank you for your input, yes it is the sweet transparent scent that I am after - I think 'furze sous la pluie' would be an excellent Irish fragrance! In my mind I'm thinking furze blossom, angelica, some kind of water aromachemical, some kind of 'wildflowers' accord, ambergris, pine and a tiny amount of oakmoss on a woody base......

    Guess I should try a very basic formula for something very simple first, its just an idea that I would like to try eventually....

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Renegade View Post
    I don't think it's commercially available even now but you can read a 1960s description of such an extract here.

    By the way, have you ever smelled gorse up close? I remember seeing big yellow swathes of it while looking out the window of the car when I was younger (in Clare I think). Only found out what it was recently. I'm not familiar with the smell at all.
    Thanks Renagade! That is interesting. I live in county galway, west of Ireland, surrounded by furze! The fragrance is beautiful - slightly coconutty, but in a transparent way. It really deserves to be in a perfume!
    Last edited by galwaygirl001; 1st February 2013 at 08:57 PM.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: furze / gorse flower aromachemical or essential oil ?

    Caldey Island off Pembroke in Wales makes a nice gorse perfume apparently created by Henry Kobus who Arctander mentions and is worth looking up. This inspired me to make a gorse infusion which is a good start. Coconut or the C14 aldehyde is then enough for me. To do it properly I would like to press the seeds safely. It would be nice to make regional gorse oils if anyone else cares to contribute bark or seeds. Distance from the sea alters the scent. Lush has an additional Mimosa note, possibly Anisaldehyde. Broom is also a fascinating accord. Genet is a french thing and too expensive to do naturally.

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