I'm not very fond of this one. It is ok, but I don't think I would ever own it.
Starting this month's sampling with another of freddie's goodies; Dark Aoud by Montale.
The opening phase reads as "dark medicine cabinet" to my nose. This cabinet is rough-hewn from antique, precious woods like cedar & sandalwood, & contains ancient, arcane potions, unidentifiable from the illegible script on their worn, dusty labels. The wood has been singed in some long-ago house fire, & this slightly burnt note mingles with the fug of years of incense-burning, & some pepper spilled on the nearby worktop.
l don't often get a "mental picture" from smelling a fragrance, but this is honestly what this one conjures up for me in the first couple of hours. After this it mellows somewhat into a softer, peppery incense, with an undercurrent of vetiver & ambergris; altogether friendlier. Five hours in it hasn't changed, & shows no signs of fading. The projection, as always for a Montale, is great.
The reviews l've seen paint this one as almost frighteningly dark, & definitely masculine; l would not have gone out of my way to sample it if not for freddie's generosity. But l'm rather enjoying it, & loving the soothing, incensy drydown. Thanks again, freddie!
I'm not very fond of this one. It is ok, but I don't think I would ever own it.
OK. frag but NBW IMO.
Today l tried Petroleum by Histoires de Parfums.
To my surprise, this does not smell remotely like petrol! ln fact, the opening is fresh & almost sweet, with touches of herbs & perhaps a little myrrh. As it develops, l get oudh, woods, an ozonic, "mineral" note, & a faint undercurrent of patchouli. The ozonic note rises above the rest & takes over, becoming bilge-like in the same way that Tirrenico did on me. Later on, ambergris & a dry leather join the mix, but the bilge-y note remains prominent to the end, making this one quite unwearable for me. l do not get any of the animalic/civet notes that others have mentioned. lt all lasts around six hours on me, & thankfully the projection is low to moderate.
l am not sure what this fragrance is trying to achieve; the bilge note seems out of place in what might otherwise have been a perfectly nice fragrance. As an experiment, it may work for some, but l won't need a second wearing to know that it doesn't work for me.
Sorry for not chiming in sooner!
Have loved reading your thoughts.
Back to January for a minute - yes the Sepia is extremely animalic isn't it! Very fecal initially - I'm amazed to be honest it got such a warm welcoming in the community and such high praise in the blogging world when it was released, it's certainly not an easy wear. I've grown so fond of it though and bought a bottle, I get great comfort out of it. It's a melancholy fragrance to me, alongside the cliche Iris Silver Mist amongst others...
As for Cepes and Tuberose, I found that one of the least interesting of her fragrances to be honest - I adore her work, this one was a bit of a let down for me though, I enjoy the perfume very much (although it's one of the few that is very shortlasting on me). I guess the main reason being I get virtually no tuberose, and no mushrooms :')
As for Dark Aoud - your visions were almost identical to mine, to me it smells like an old abandoned building. Atmospheric, dank and ancient - I would love a little bottle of it
Petroleum opens to me almost pure aldehydic civet/oud before it goes bilgey. A very fecal civet at that.
At times I love it and think it's brilliant, at others I find the drydown boring and generic (well - in comparison to the opening). Yet again, I'd quite like a bottle, but I wouldn't wear it much. Sometimes the civet turns my stomach a touch (not sure why I don't get this with anything else civet heavy) - I guess it's the aldehyde and driftwood pairing :') It's a wierd one thats for sure.
Look forward to reading more!
As for me, today I sampled Portrait Of A Lady. I have had a sample for a while now and finally reviewed it in full here
In short: I like the opening, but can instantly tell it's not "me". A great rose/geranium combo, the cool quality of the herbal geranium juxtaposed against some culinary spices (bay, clove, cinnamon, pepper, coriander?) adding heat.
The rose is bone dry and almost potpourri-like, the incense is intense and peppery, the patchouli lovely and over the top. Blah blah.. basically I don't like the drydown. A disappointing woody/amber/musk that smells like "bulk" - it doesn't stay true to the glamorous opening and for me, gets boring very quickly I don't hate the perfume, but it grinds on me.
Thanks so much for the feedback freddie, it's good to see you here!
l too am surprised that Sepia got so much love from the bloggers, & although l saw the word "barnyard" used a lot, no-one mentioned that very distinct scent of manure that l got! lt is kind of comforting in a perverse sense though, as it does remind me of the place where l grew up.
lnteresting that you got no mushrooms from Cepes either, l guess my brain wasn't misinterpreting it after all.
l really liked Dark Aoud, that "eau de abandoned building" vibe is strangely appealing!
Petroleum is definitely not for me.
LOL'd at your description of woody/amber/musk smelling like "bulk"! Although l actually think l might like POAL...
Testing Ladamo right now, impressions to follow later, but l warn you, they aren't good...
Yep you were right all along about the cepes, to me it's just a lactonic sandalwood heavy rose? Very subtle and at times reminded me of Jeux De Peau...
It is strangely appealing ey! Much more gothic than say, Avignon - the more I talk about it the more I need it :P
Yeh for me the drydown of PoaL was a huge letdown, felt bad saying so because it gets so much love but, there we go.
LOL! I look forward to hearing your thoughts on Ladamo :P It's definitly a strange little thing. An even more masculine, herbal Sables.
So today l've sampled Ladamo by O'Driu.
"A more masculine, herbal Sables" describes it quite well, but... l get whacked in the head by an enormous stick of celery before this fragrance gets anywhere near my skin. Seriously, l have never experienced such huge projection just wafting from a vial! The noxious cloud is almost visible in the air. And just a couple of dabs is all that's needed, this is really potent stuff. The celery note reminds me of Molecule 03 by Escentric Molecules, & so l'm guessing there's a lot of vetiveryl acetate here, too. The overall impression at first is bitter, dark & green, with perhaps some woods, a little tobacco, & a very faint sour fruit which must be the juniper berries. A little later, l get cardamom & galbanum; two notes l am not a big fan of. Then over the next hour, the immortelle becomes more & more dominant. l get random whiffs of other, strange-but-familiar notes, but when l sniff up close, all l smell is immortelle. Five hours in, it hasn't changed, & is still going so strongly that l think it may last all night.
l enjoy immortelle in other compositions, & Sables in particular, but this one has too many other notes that just don't agree with me. l respect it for being incredibly powerful, complex & tenacious, but l cannot imagine myself wanting to wear it.
Thanks freddie for including such challenging fragrances in this goody bag, it's so much fun getting out of my comfort zone for a bit!
Is Molecule 03 a synthetic? If so, Ladamo is a natural fragrance But I totally get the celery thing also - a bit like Yatagan.
Most of the O'Driu's are shockingly potent. Did I include a sample of Leva? Sorry if not That's the only O'Driu I have a full bottle of so far - it is just as strong! But some of the newer releases are much tamer.
You describe Ladamo perfectly - much better than I did when I first tried it
Sounds like it wasn't your type of perfume at all! Haha. It's definitely an interesting sniff though ey! I wouldn't want to wear it either though, the fenugreek/immortelle is far too intense for me - not as sweet as Sables which itself is a difficult wear.
No worries! All these are normal sniffings for me :P Haha - it's just - my taste. I can't guarentee all the samples are as interesting as what you've reviewed so far, I did throw in some randoms I think - but sounds like you've had fun picking out some good stuff so far! Loving your reviews
Tonight I sampled Guerlain's Bois D'Armenie.
A nice opening of peppery incense, myrrh, benzoin verges on an abstract gourmand - the vanilla quite typical for Guerlain. It subtly resembles other Guerlain vanilla heavy fragrances, Cuir Beluga, blah blah blah.
Anything interesting disappears quite quickly as the top notes vanish in seconds and what is left is a benzoin, vanilla, amber with a touch of smoke that gets even more simplistic as the hours go by.
Very subtle, but long lasting on the skin - nice enough, but far too simplistic. A good, straightforward, powdery vanilla/amber that I wouldn't want to wear.
Thanks for the lovely comments, freddie! No, you didn't include Leva, although l was intrigued by your review of it. Notes of olive & lemon sound very mediterranean, which appeals to me.
l agree with you about Bois d'Armenie; a very pleasant fragrance, but yes, a bit too simple & straightforward, as if it's all base notes & nothing else.
A VERY good night of sampling my end.
Monica Miller (Perfume Pharmer) sent me a HUGE box FULL of samples, including the entire Primordial Scents 2012 project. She got numerous perfumers to create fragrances to fit in either of the five categories: Spirit Earth Air Fire Water... I know it sounds a little cheesy, and I had no idea what to expect. I cracked out the Spirt box today and was hugely impressed!
It consisted of 3 fragrances.
Chyrsalis by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz
The least interesting of the three for me. A blue lotus fragrance (an aquatic, gardenia style note) - very light, maybe with a touch of green tea. A hint of lavender up top. Dries down jasmine dominant with just a hint of indole, very subtle, with a bit of incense/amber/patchouli base I think. I couldn't find any notes list so it's all a guess). Very calm and meditative, enjoyable to wear but too light for my tastes.
Sweet Naam by Flying Colours Natural Perfumes
A bright herbal lavender runs top to bottom, a large citrus hit of bergamot up top, and an ice cold mint/eucalyptus. It warms up as it dries with cinnamon, carnation and a pimento heat. An ylang ylang and jasmine join in, and it dries down to a creamy vanilla and gauicwood. Fascinating development, great fun to wear - reminded me of Agonist's Arctic Jade which I also love
Calling All Angels by April Aromatics
Probably the best incense fragrance I've ever tried. A charred wood oud accord - piercingly intense and hot, is paired with a loud, peppery, sharp incense, so pungent it burns your nose. A thick layer of labdanum at the bottom, and a rose that smells bitter and stewed (rose concrete?) lacquers the incense throughout the fragrance. Simplistic, but oustanding.
The most fun I've had sampling this year. I can't wait to get my nose through the other four categories!
Full reviews here: http://smellythoughts.wordpress.com/...irit-perfumes/
lnteresting, freddie! My nose is twitching at Calling All Angels. l remember these being talked about on the blogs, & l look forward to hearing more!
- - - Updated - - -
Today (Sunday 17th) l tried S-ex by S-Perfumes.
This starts off fresh & slightly floral, with a large dose of the ozonic/salty marine note of calone. The impression is of a very "white" & clean fragrance, in a similar way to Eternity, but more translucent, & hovering weightlessly above the skin. lf this is sex, it is a futuristic, non-contact, cyber-sex version. ln the heart, l get a very faint strawberry note along with white musk. l get no leather at all until around three hours in, just as it's all beginning to fade, & then a little sweetness from the malt. Five hours in, it's completely gone.
l don't hate this, but it lacks any kind of animalic warmth, & instead just leaves me cold. Not the kind of sex l'm into, thanks.
Last edited by teardrop; 17th February 2013 at 04:21 PM.
You're bang on with S-Ex... nothing sexy about it haha. I did get a slightly fecal leather after a couple wears, but, nothing worth shouting about. It's like a very very subtle animalic note, and a big plastic aquatic note, joined by plastic :')
The novelty wore off quickly!
You guys need some company
Last night I sampled L'Artisan Parfumeur Voleur de Roses .
This one is all about patchouli! And there is a dark red rose. But this takes patchouli through the whole spectrum, first damp and earthy, then herbal and almost minty, to finally an almost incensy, drier, mentholated version. All the while, the red rose sits there keeping it company, but always in the background. I really did not find this too dark or goth, just patchouli done well. And a companion rose.
Very nice fragrance, although I am not a hugh patchouli fan. Longevity was fairly short, maybe 5 hours on me.
Thanks for the contribution as always cello
Voleur is an unusual one - I really really like it, but wouldn't wear it - I bought it for my ma a couple Christmas' ago. I think that's the big downside to it, it is so short lived and quiet. I get a pretty potent metallic note running throughout it as well - it is a fragrance with some pretty harsh edges and I think that's why it's so often stamped gothic!
OoOOoo I have so much samplign to do I'm overwhelmed. I have the entire Primordial Scents collection to go through, and I just got the April Aromatics sample set <3 EEEEE
Cello; always good to see you here!
Freddie; looking forward to the next instalment!
Today l tried Cuir from Mona di Orio's Les Nombres d'Or collection.
This is a dark, dry, bitter, smoky leather, with a distinctly meaty note of burnt pepper steak in the opening phase. After an hour or so, it calms down a little, becoming more salty & animalic, but never sweetening up at all. From here it doesn't seem to develop, wearing close to the skin, & still going softly after five hours.
l don't mind a rough, masculine opening in a leather fragrance, but l would prefer a little more sweetness & cuddliness in the drydown than l'm getting here, & so l haven't really warmed to this one. lf, on the other hand, you prefer your leathers dry & dark, you might want to give this a try.
- - - Updated - - -
I sampled Tindrer by Magnetic Scent again last night (I've tried this numerous times but only just decided to blog about it) - to sum up this house which I really really love, I thought I'd post a little video I did on the three fragrances in the collection here as I've been sampling these extensively for some time.
Lovely vid, freddie. And I quickly spun through your blog to catch up - good stuff there.
Yesterday I sampled Ramon Monegal Impossible Iris. This is the first in the line that I have worn, but I have the two leathers yet to go. I adore iris, and was very much looking forward to this. But as luck would have it, I do not like this at all.
The opening blast is very violet iris to me, sweet and sharp. It is headache inducing, like a shrill scream. There is little of the earthy or rooty aspect to be found here. It does subside a bit when the sweetness of the raspberry creeps in, but there is very little powder or softness during much of the duration of this scent. This perfume runs high on the treble, and grates on my nerves. Finally towards the end I sense a dose of powder or even some cooling vetiver maybe, and it calms.
I have read comparisons to F. Malle Iris Poudre, which I adore and own. While they both capture the floral and slightly sweet aspects of iris, Iris Poudre integrates and balances all aspects of iris for a much more facinating ride. Impossible Iris seems to pick it's prettiness and stick with it. It is a somewhat linear perfume.
Not an iris for me
So first up, big thanks to Freddie for hooking me up with this sample. Sample of the day = Lonestar Memories.
I'll preface this, by saying I am a novice and only really started getting properly into fragrances about 5 months ago. My opinion here is completely blind and quite possibly completly wrong. All I know about this fragrance is the name and who it is by. I have tested it for 3 days now to geta good feel for it!
Having had a sample of LDDM, I would almost certainly have known that this was a Tauer fragrance. I wouldn’t say it’s hugely similar, but it just has that ‘Tauer vibe’ Not sure if these is a male fragrance, but I definitely see it as Unisex.
At the top I get Spices (maybe eastern spices if that makes sense?) lots of Leather, lots of smoke and some Woods. After 5 minutes I get a strong TCP antiseptic vibe from this not sure but TCP may only be an English antiseptic, so some of you may not know what I mean) This is the part of the fragrance I don’t like. After 20 minutes this antiseptic smell fades to the background somewhat and the good stuff, like the smoky leather come back. Overall, I really like this one, but probably not enough to buy.
More observations on other samples, to follow soon.
Thanks again to Freddie - what a top guy!!
Thanks for joining us Dailey, l look forward to reading more of your impressions!
And you're right, freddie sure is a top guy!
I totally agree with you about the RM Iris - I was very unimpressed by it too unfortunately. Iris Poudre is definitely the superior of the two, although ISM is still "my" iris right now
Lovely to see you here.
Basically guys, I sent Daley some samples on ONE condition: He writes his thoughts here :P Oh and sniffs these blind (not to look them up)
Great impressions - kudos on taking your time with this one and not dismissing it so quickly. Nice to read you've had a sample of LDDM for a while - at least you kind of understand the Tauer-ade and could recognize it. The TCP kind of antiseptic accord is my favourite part! Haha, I just wish it lasted longer.
Your thoughts are pretty much bang on. What I love so much about Lonestar Memories is the transition from the heavy, birch tar (smoke), herbal-laden opening with cool notes of geranium (maybe what contributes to the TCP-vibe) and such, turns into a really warm, human, leathery amber/incense (Tauer-y). It's brilliant, and the base is almost unrecognizable from the opening. From a distance, or an another wearer, it smells like a rich, over the top 80's powerhouse of a perfume - almost classical, yet it's pretty much considered a challenging, modern composition. It's not my favourite Tauer, but it's one of the first ones I fell for. Just really great perfume It's also one of the few fragrances in my collection that I will wear out, knowing I'll get a comment on it! It's texture in the base is surprisingly light, but sweet, soiled and skin-like, never heard a bad word when wearing it.
Look forward to hearing your thoughts on the rest of the samples. I chose them super carefully for you :P There's some fantastic stuff there.
Dailey, keep it coming! This is a great thread to just let thoughts and impressions flow. I wish more peeps would join. These are all first impressions, and certainly low key. Stuff is whatever it is to your nose. Fun to be had, sniffing and comparing
Freddie, yea, Iris Poudre is the opposite extreme of what I love about iris. But it is so well done, and so darn beautiful, that I get my kicks from it. ISM is a whole nother ballgame, austere and lovely. Opposite extremes, but I love them both for what they are.
I have absolutely no knowledge of any import, but I'm enjoying reading all your thoughts.
I like Bois d'armenie though, that's about my speed hah!
I wanted to share samples with established UK basenoters but I don't know where to get decanting supplies and I'm not sure anyone would want anything from my wardrobe. If you want a bit of something from me, perhaps send me an atomiser that I'll post back to you? Is that allowed by Royal Mail? Well, my offer stands if anyone can help with the logistics.
Sample of the day is Un Bois Vanille by Serge Lutens
I'm not one for vanilla soliflores so excuse my slight negativity.
Boring. A coconut/orchid opening seems to vanish within a few minutes to leave behind a relatively straightforward cupcake vanilla, slightly woody aspects, and a subtle, bitter edge by the tamest liqourice note possible (on my skin at least).
The vanilla sticks through to the end, made slightly multifaceted by tonka and benzoin (as expected) - and a butter-soft sandalwood and slightly drier cedar wood, oh and a touch of smoke, finish Un Bois Vanille.
Too straightforward for me - I wish I had the materials to make fragrances, I'd love to make a vanilla like no other. This however, is a vanilla that has no interest to me.
Freddie, l'm just wondering, what would your ideal vanilla smell like?
Today l tried Sarrasins by Serge Lutens.
First, l have to force myself not to be distracted by the vivid purple colour of the juice. When l do, l get a surprisingly fresh, green & translucent jasmine, with hints of fruit; more apples, pears & peaches than osmanthus, to my nose. l do not detect any indoles or leather, & for the first couple of hours it seems like a completely linear fragrance. After this, it becomes softer & a little creamier, & now five hours in l'm getting a very faint animalic note, which l'm guessing is castoreum. After that first two hours, the projection is very low on me, & it's fading fast.
l'm undecided about this one, so far. lt's a little too "fruity floral" for me, & l have other jasmines that l much prefer. But it's possible that in warmer weather l may get more of the animalic side l was hoping for, & so l will revisit it later in the year.
I sampled Parfumerie Generale Private Collection - Un Crime Exotique last night. Relaxing tea scent - NOT!
Yet another PG that opens with a blast of spices that bowl you over, and sometimes I just don't recover from the initial shock. Big ginger and cinnamon bloom on the skin. It almost had a Christmas candle vibe, even including a waxy smell. But after this initial burst, it settled into a rich and, still, spicy tea fragrance. This is another composition that I find unbalanced, and even though the smell itself was pleasant, I would rather it be a room spray or candle I think. It is not necessarily a smell that I would want to wear as a perfume. Certainly worth a sniff if you are a fan of tea fragrances, or even spicy gourmandish fragrances, although this one is not sweet. I found it more of an experience rather than fragrance sampling, if that makes sense.
Sample of the day for me = Aftelier's Haute Claire (Thanks to Freddie for the sample)
Not a fan of this one. It has a note that reminds me of A* Men, which I don't like! I get old flowers and urine from this one - sorry :-)
Last night I tried to relax with spiced tea, and that did not work out. Tonight, I have resorted to hemp! And it has totally worked!
Tonight I sampled Perfumerie Generale Coze. Oh, goodness, I am all relaxed now!
This one opens with, and continues with, patchouli. It is, in fact, a patch bomb. But there is an undercurrent of sweetness that is adorable. This never gets cloyingly sweet, but just adds something to keep the herbal patch from going dust bowl dry. Yum. It is fairly linear after the opening salvo, but in my opinion, that is not a fault. Smelling good should be just fine. This is the Ambre 114 of patch - dry, herbal and dusty, but never veering too far in that direction. If you are patch phobic, as I sometimes am, this one should be on your sniffing list. Oh, nice. I said that over and over. The hemp - well, let's just say it was a pleasant and relaxing experience Good stuff, this.
Last edited by cello; 24th February 2013 at 01:29 AM.