Some people in this thread have a very strange idea of what a "dark" frag is.
Oscar de le Renta Pour Lui ?? Esencia Loewe ?? Really, guys?
Salvador Dali PH is so dark it actually smells like something is burning. Weird frag.
----- People laugh at me because I'm different.... I laugh at them because they're all the same -----
Czech & Speake No 88
I was born to shoot guns and smell good doin it!
Shane "The Bopper" Stagg
Just bought Arabian Oud Musc Fakher (refined) and Musc Kaaba mukhalat oils. Gorgeous dark musc animalic scent.
And Avignon I kind of liked at first; I don't know church incense, but it does approximate the burning of frankincense tears... but again, frankincense? Dark? It's a bright, sunny resin, even while burning on a charcoal block.
(Then I bought a Tide washing machine cleaner packet which apparently is all Iso E Super, and now all I can think of when I smell Avignon is sparkling washing machines. I was about to buy a decant, too.)
What I don't like about Avignon is that it smells so synthetically built together. You have the very sweet vanilla-base, the smoke-imitating middle-part and it even tries to mimic the citrusy top-notes of real Frankincense by adding a thin citrus-smell on top. It doesn't smell organic, like one unity, it smells totally torn! It tries to copy real Frankincense, but fails in my opinion in doing it.
What I also don't like is that it really tries to copy real Frankincense! I am by no means an incense-expert, but I think the incense used in (Catholic) churches in Europe is most of the time a mix of different ingredients (including Frankincense) in numerous variations, but not just Frankincense alone - at least that's how I experienced it.
Last edited by hoschhti; 18th March 2013 at 05:08 PM.
Your brief as far as what constitutes "dark" is a bit vague. While you list quite a few "dark" fragrances (I would have pointed you at Black Tourmaline) that you feel aren't "dark" enough, you fail to elaborate on why each misses the mark. Other than "Black Tourmaline", I would probably suggest you try Naomi Goodsir's "Bois d'Ascese", which is gorgeous rendering of straight up wood smoke. Or why not try wearing Diptyque's now discontinued room fragrance "Essence of John Galliano" - smoke and leather.
One of the problems you are liable to run in to is that fragrances are designed to be wearable (and to attract a purchaser). To my nose, something like "Black Tourmaline" pushes those boundaries while remaining wearable. If Durbano had made it much "darker", it probably would slip into novelty territory - something designed to attract a bit of attention for being outrageous, but not to sell. Not to be worn. Simply to provoke.
+1 Serge Noire Serge Lutens
+1 Pure Oud By Kilian
I've never smelled anything remotely evil and dark, you can definitely cross of Salvador Dali pour homme , dior eau noire, and serge noire. They all smell really nice, salvador dali is bit old fashioned for me to enjoy wearing. I guess maybe i just dont know how evil and dark would translate into a scent. Weirdly, this thread topic has come up before which is why i tried salvador dali in the first place.
Cartier XIII Treizieme Heure.
What I don't like about the perfumes mentioned in my original post:
Encre Noire: Weird musk-notes in the drydown, licorice-note, too synthetic (Iso E Super). I liked it at first but that suddenly changed. I have the persistent suspicion that the formula changed - or my taste.
Black Tourmaline: Has an "old man"-vibe!
Norne: It's too herbal-medicinal, almost too green, smells like a potpourri after a while, especially on fabric.
Fumidus: Too fat, too boozy, too herbal.
Messe de Minuit (current version): Bad joke!
In my colllection, the darkest one is encre noire. I don't know if it is possible to find an even darker one.
If "dark" means absence of sweetness, florals, citrus etc., then Montale Dark Aoud. It smells like someone taking a wood burning kit to a pile of very dry cheap oud shavings.
I agree with Salvador Dali. Also, although I have never tried it, Messe de Minuit is supposed to be a very dark incense.
My Ultimate Top 5:
Paul Smith Man (2009)
Burberry London (2006)
Prada Amber pour Homme (2006)
Arpege pour Homme (2005)
Cuir D Arabie and black Afgano
Encre Noire and Carbone ve Balmain
All you guys who recommended Dark Aoud made me very, very curious - a decant is already on its way to me!
My decant of Dark Aoud arrived and I gave it already a couple of wearings. In the beginning it has this luxurious "Amouage-vibe", but that fades away quite qickly and surprisingly the scent becomes very refreshing (I'm not kidding), light, smoky and very dry, but also a bit thin and slightly synthetic. I see it as a dark "Eau de Cologne" as it is so fresh and airy. To be a dark "Perfume" it would need a bit more "meat", a bit more body and deepness, some more "rawness". Dark Aoud is a bit too streamlined, too polite, but I really like it and feel very comfortable wearing it.
So I haven't found the SUPER-DARK "Perfume", but I have found a SUPER-DARK "Eau de Cologne"!
Another votes for Serge Noire and Pure Oud By Kilian
Bois Noir Robert Piguet
I just reviewed By Kilian Extreme Oud mr. hoschhti. Kinda dark, certainly darker than By Kilian Pure Oud which everyone keeps pushing here. But I don't think it's dungeon worthy dark by any means. Nice though.
Andy Tauer Incense Extreme.
The sense of smell, like a faithful counsellor, foretells its character.
Last edited by hoschhti; 30th March 2013 at 03:59 PM.
Extreme is low key dry and slightly leathery, I don't get too much more than that. The oud used in it is a nice dry one. I actually think most fragrance users would not be too impressed with it. I'm still pretty new to it but there's something about it that intrigues me. It's so "unperfumy" once it dries down, which is very quickly. Just something about it that's seems perfect for my tastes. Unfortunately it's very expensive and hard to come by. Of course.
Madini Musk Gazelle, maybe.
I don't own any dark scents beside H.O.T. always which is too dark to wear except for the coldest week or so of the year
Wearing right now the original 1980 version of Leonard pour Homme ; this is dark, profound and melancholic scent. To me this is dark from the beginning to the end.
"Le parfum est la musique du corps"
Lime oud. much more balanced and interesting then dark or black. Montale is the only way here.
I agree though, cold and dark on the wavelength of Re-load ambient for those who know what it is, I don't think it was ever done. Perfume scene is not designed for it. Has to be a niche label done by someone like Geza with unlimited budget. I see German or Belgium label doing it in the near future.
Actually Skai by Comme des is as close to your description as you can get. Discontinued at 2011 though.
Last edited by outline; 1st April 2013 at 12:41 AM.
Slumberhouse - Norne
Montale Dark Oud sounds good to me - I have yet to smell true evil but oh how I would like to. The darkest (but still beautiful and floral, sorry) that I have yet to encounter is L'Heure Bleu, which smells like death and funerals to me but I realise this is not the kind of dark you seek...
A woman drew her long black hair out tight
And fiddled whisper music on those strings
And bats with baby faces in the violet light
Whistled, and beat their wings
I don't know if the Huddler-data will ever come back so I am not waiting longer and bumping the thread with this little story:
Last year I visited my grandmother in the town where I spent the first four years of my life. In this town there is a cemetary with this old wooden church. The church looks nice - and it smells really nice! I have been there so often but this time I had the idea to check how the wood smells like. People gave me strange looks because I was standing there outside of the church and kept on sniffing the wood. The wood smells brutally dry, smoky but not burnt, really old and dusty. It gives me goosebumps, even now as I am typing this! If this scent could be bottled as a perfume that would be great, this is how I imagine a SUPER-DARK perfume to smell like! As you can see on the picture the wood is black, so I suppose it is coated with something (tar?), but I am not an expert, maybe it’s just ageing. I can find hints of that amazing smell buried deep in the basenotes of some high-quality Oud oils and the perfume that comes the closest to the smell of the church is probably "Dark Aoud", although it’s a bit on the synthetic side.
Last edited by hoschhti; 4th March 2014 at 08:23 AM.
1. Dia Man
3. Skin Graft
6. Hindu Kush
Try Malle's Bois d'Orage (French Lover)...very dry with a 'damp stone' note.
If only there were evil people somewhere insidiously committing evil deeds and it were necessary only to separate them from the rest of us and destroy them. But the line dividing good and evil cuts through the heart of every human being. And who is willing to destroy a piece of his own heart? -Alexander Solzhenitsyn, novelist, Nobel laureate
Wanting to try:
Fougère Bengale, Cafe Noir
Wanting to buy:
Yohji Homme EDT
Gothic - Messe de Minuit by Etro
The "darkest" scents I have ever tried - by "darkest" I mean either smokey, somber, dry, gloomy, are:
- CdG - Luxe patchouli: monolithic black. I've tried tons of "black" scents (with "black" in their name I mean) but this is so far the only real "black" scent I have ever tried.
- CdG - Avignon (and similar, like Cardinal etc.): rather somptuous and foggy "dark grey".
- Montale - Aoud Cuir d'Arabie: dry and animalic, by this meaning the "darker" cruel side of "animalic".
- Naomi Goodsir - Bois d'ascèse: woods burning. Not "aromatic" woods, I mean real wood, so in a way, there's still the "heavy black/grey smoke" concept which I guess is close to the idea of "dark" we are discussing here.
- Ulrich Lang - Nightscape: urban, contemporary "dark" concept.
- Annick Goutal - Encens Flamboyant: this is not "olfactively" dark or heavy, rather more balsamic, but it is still the most gloomy and funereal scent I have ever tried. It basically like your dead aunt's mansion. I get a strong feeling of "death" each time I smell this.
- LM Parfums - Ambre Muscadin: romantic, feminine, old-fashioned and animalic "dark" take on classic French perfumery style. Basically on the very thin line between this and cat pee, but still, again, "dark" in broad terms.
- Amouage - Memoir Man: I always imagined this as a crawling green ivy embracing a decaying mansion. Green and dark.
- CdG - Sugi: another dark-green accord, definitely contemporary, still much gloomy at some points (to me).
- Les Liquides Imaginaires - Fortis: sweet and rich start which slowly drowns down in a darker, and darker, and darker drydown. Too much dry to me (burnt rubber).
And of course, needless to name almost every oud fragrance on Earth (notably Oud Cashmere Mood by Kurkdjian and Musk Out by Kilian). And also whiskey/leather/tobacco scents (one of the boldest here to me is 1740 by Histoires de Parfums).
Last edited by Colin Maillard; 4th March 2014 at 01:22 PM.
Norma Kamali Incense reminded me of old oak whisky barrels the first time of wearing - dark, dry but also substantial.
LM Hard Leather is also pretty dry & very dark.
Last edited by lpp; 4th March 2014 at 01:20 PM.
lol, encre noir is NOT dark. The it has a minty freshness to it that gives the dirty vetiver a clean smell. It wears very light imo. Definitely not "super dark". It is probably the best vetiver scent imo.
You want super dark...super dank...burned...coffee...oud...tobacco...hashish.. .with a touch of sweetness. Nasomatto Black Afgano. Love this juice. Potent as hell too. Just got a bottle along with Pardon.
Memoir Man - real mint/basil...leather..kinda sweet...burned wood/incense. One of my favorites.
Per FuMe - on FB. Check out my page. Like and Share. Disounts on most frags. https://www.facebook.com/PerFuMe.1505
Per FuMe - on FB. Check out my page. Like and Share. Disounts on most frags. https://www.facebook.com/PerFuMe.1505
But there are so many more possible factors that can be contributing to the smell of that church...
Last edited by Nasenmann; 4th March 2014 at 03:14 PM.
When I lived in Seattle several years ago, there was a big fire on the NOAA dock on Lake Union. The pilings had been treated with creosote for waterproofing, and when they burned it created the thickest smoke you could imagine. My apartment happened to be downwind, and I had to evacuate for the day. It was absolutely choking, and the smell permeated everything. I don't have any desire for that in a fragrance, then again I have a fairly negative association with that aroma that others may not share.
CDG Avignon fits your description perfectly.
No. 88 Czech & Speake, Vintage Bel Ami and Amouage Tribute can also be considered.
Creed's love in black
I probably have a different definition of dark than others, but for me it's decisively... Ferrari Silver Essence
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Great thread, love seeing all the different interpretations of what dark means in a scent!
Montale Dark Aoud and Nasomatto Black Afgano are the things that came to my mind, as with so many others, but if you found Dark Aoud too synthetic, I daresay you'll have the same impression of Black Afgano.
Slumberhouse Jeke has all the smoke you could want, but it also has some benzoin sweetness so I guess you'd rule it out.
Why not wear oud oil, if that's the closest thing?
Behemoth cut a slice of pineapple, salted it, peppered it, ate it, and then tossed off a second glass of alcohol so dashingly that everyone applauded.