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  1. #31

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Fleur de Cristal, (Lalique) is a Diorissimo Clone, In White (Jesus del Pozo) Stella (McCartney) and my unsung treasure, Cabaret (Gres)

  2. #32

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    ExtremeK:

    Lovely to read your first impressions - although I have to admit I'm more excited for your reviews on Secret Garden and Tango :P <3 Honey Blossom didn't do too much for me so I didn't write about it and passed my sample on a while back. I like the honey blossom, but it's subtlty was a little tooo much for me, and it all felt a bit too minimal. Lumiere I found very intersting, considering it was a natural fragrance especially.
    Glad you enjoyed my write up! I have a good familiarity with the Phenyl Ethyl Acetate note anyway so once you've got your nose locked on it - honeyed pears it is as soon as you pick it up haha. It is subtle in this though - and I agree with the rest of your description entirely. It is extreeeeemely light on the skin. Honey Blossom similarly vanished rapidly. Although a big wearing of Secret Garden or Tango will last me a longgggggg time.
    Glad you're getting on with them though - The Aftelier line is truly fascinating, have fun sniffing through it
    Oh and keep this post updated, very keen to read your thoughts on everything.
    Last edited by forfreddie; 18th February 2013 at 05:25 PM.

  3. #33
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    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Extremek, I can't wear Le Temps d'une Fete either. I had the same reaction: for some reason it just didn't suit me. It should have, but it didn't. If you liked Sacrebleu you might like Guerlain L'Heure Bleue. I'm also hoping you'll update the thread with your impressions of the fragrances you sample. I love to read them.

  4. #34

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Quote Originally Posted by lilybelle View Post
    If you liked Sacrebleu you might like Guerlain L'Heure Bleue. I'm also hoping you'll update the thread with your impressions of the fragrances you sample. I love to read them.
    Why, thank you, lilybelle I'll do my best.

    As for L'Heure Bleue, that's a strike for me, too. Classical fragrances are just not my thing. I don't know if it's the structure, the notes, or what ... But I've just had zero success with all the Guerlains and all of the Chanels except for Coco.

    - - - Updated - - -

    So, I tested Aftelier Secret Garden today. I sprayed it this morning and at 4:00 pm, I can still smell it, so it certainly has more staying power than Lumiere. Unfortunately for me, that's not a great thing. I wish Lumiere had the staying power instead. (My impressions of Lumiere are below in post #30.)

    Forfreddie, I know you love this one, but it didn't work for me. It leaves me pretty cold, in fact, and it has nothing to do with the frigid temperatures outside.

    The perfumer indicates that the inspiration for this fragrance is the novel of the same name by Frances Hodgson Burnett, which I loved as young girl. Ironically, however, the fragrance develops on me in reverse order -- rather than starting out a barren garden and then awakening and blooming, it starts out with a cheerful brightness, thanks to the blood orange and bergamot, which I enjoyed. I got a quick hit of jasmine, and then it completely withered into powder with just a hint of rose. And there it's stayed. All. Day. Long. Sigh.

    There was a point in the withering where it felt a bit like Une Fleur de Cassie, specifically in the mid-range of UFdC's development, and I could sort of see how Secret Garden was *supposed* to be working. It just didn't work on me. I much prefer Une Fleur de Cassie, where the mimosa is a bit powdery, but the underlying funk is just fabulous. I swoon.

    Secret Garden strikes me as a modern fragrance with a classical vibe, sort of like the fragrances from Parfums de Nicolai. And, as I've mentioned before, whether it's Guerlain, Chanel, PdN, or Secret Garden, the classical thing just doesn't suit me. I've tried for a couple of years now, but I can't do more than appreciate them. They just aren't for me. But for someone who enjoys classical fragrances, I think Secret Garden could be wonderful.
    Last edited by ExtremeK; 19th February 2013 at 09:38 PM.

  5. #35

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Thanks for your thoughts ExtremeK, shame it didn't work for you though
    Don't worry, I love reading alternative points of view on fragrances I love, that's why I share so much stuff on these forums! Haha.
    The heart of Secret Garden on me where it turns linear and remains - is a rich, powder filled rose and deep jammy raspberry/jasmine combo which I love - the civet is so rich on my skin and the patchouli... oh man, it's gorgeous!
    It is definitly a classical structure like you said - and that normally doesn't work for me, I guess it's becuase the modern fruit isolates and some abstract floral notes in the heart (blue lotus?) kind of tweak it.
    I'm sure there are tons more loves ahead of you in your sample bags to come

  6. #36

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Next up is Annick Goutal Un Matin d'Orage.

    The gardenia in Un Matin d'Orage is a very "pretty" gardenia. It's creamy but never becomes Roquefort-y/mushroomy (although that's by no means a bad thing); rather, it's very well-behaved. And I would have loved it ... except for that BLASTED ozonic note (pun sort of intended).

    The opening was oh-so promising -- warm, creamy gardenia with just a bit of something funky. At first I thought I was getting the indoles I love so much in my white florals. But no. The bit of funk instead devolved into a very sharp, metallic shriek that singed my nasal passages. I kept trying to focus on the lovely gardenia underneath it, but it appears that I'm one of the people who gets utterly bashed by the "Orage" part of the fragrance. Were it not for that, this would have been FBW for me.

    Interestingly, this fragrance smells AMAZING -- no ozone, no metal, no shrieking -- on my boyfriend. Just dead sexy gardenia. So, instead, I'll be buying him at least a decant of it.

    Teardrop, forfreddie, and yellow_cello, thank you for the recommendation. Even though it didn't work for me, I found another stunning floral for my sweetie.

    Cacio, I have a decant of Une Voix Noire, and I love it. I'd love to try JAR Jardenia (and several other JARs). Between Uncle Serge's bell jars at Barneys and JAR at Bergdorf's, I guess I *really* need to take that trip to NYC.

  7. #37
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    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    So glad that it at least works for one of you!

    l'm enjoying reading your reports ExtremeK, keep 'em coming!
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  8. #38

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Quote Originally Posted by teardrop View Post
    So glad that it at least works for one of you!

    l'm enjoying reading your reports ExtremeK, keep 'em coming!
    I agree! Keep 'em coming
    For me, the gardenia disappears and Un Matin D'Orage pretty much turns into a fig leaf smell - dominated by Stemone (the note I'm guessing is a bit shrill to you) - it is ozonic, but I think it's easy to warm too, although heavily synthetic. Keep trying it, it may just grow on you

  9. #39

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Quote Originally Posted by forfreddie View Post
    I agree! Keep 'em coming
    For me, the gardenia disappears and Un Matin D'Orage pretty much turns into a fig leaf smell - dominated by Stemone (the note I'm guessing is a bit shrill to you) - it is ozonic, but I think it's easy to warm too, although heavily synthetic. Keep trying it, it may just grow on you
    Full disclosure ... after a couple of hours, it was starting to give me a headache, so I scrubbed it. I'm such a weenie. I am, however, going to enjoy it on my BF.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Today I've been testing Van Cleef & Arpels Lys Carmin. I *really* like this one. (Thanks, lilybelle! ) And if I hadn't fallen in love with Serge Lutens Un Lys last summer, this would have been my lily.

    Lys Carmin and Un Lys share a lovely opening -- a lily in full bloom, with just a touch of green, from the instant the fragrance hits the skin. But where Un Lys deepens and intensifies (as Lutens fragrances are wont to do), Lys Carmin becomes fresher and a bit more green. And something quite interesting happens -- the pink peppercorn and whatever other unlisted spices are there (a touch of cinnamon, maybe?) cause the fragrance to open up and give the lily space to breathe. I can actually smell that happening. It's a really neat effect.

    But then the lily disappears. In fact, the whole thing disappears for about 15 minutes. And then a sandalwoody-vanilla begins to open up, with just a hint of that spicy lily underneath. The spice is still more cinnamon-y than peppery on me. Sweet freak that I am, I haven't been able to stop sniffing my wrist.

    At no time during my wearing of Lys Carmin did I get any kind of plasticky effect. But, if I'm honest, a side by side comparison of the drydowns of Un Lys and Lys Carmin does reveal a bit of a synthetic base in Lys Carmin -- I assume that must be the sandalwood (Iso E Super?).

    I like Lys Carmin a lot, but ultimately I think having both Un Lys and Lys Carmin would be redundant. So I took the plunge and went with a bottle of Un Lys.

    I do think I'm going to give Lys du Desert, Andy Tauer's fragrance for Luckyscent's Decennial, another run. That lily is very different from Un Lys, and when I wore it a couple of weeks ago, the sweet vanilla base in LdD made my eyes roll back in my head. Fan. Tastic.
    Last edited by ExtremeK; 24th February 2013 at 07:11 PM.

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