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  1. #1

    Default How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Spring appears to be knocking at the gate, if not at the front door, and so it's time for my nose to begin craving florals. Which it's already been doing. The latest casualty is my decant of Frederic Malle's Une Fleur de Cassie, which I drained on Sunday.

    And so begins my annual late winter/early spring quest for florals. Many of the florals in my wardrobe today are in the BIG WHITE FLORAL category (I'm a sucker for tuberose and jasmine), so I don't think I want to do more in that vein. And, my goodness, I do love a good violet.

    I have been branching out just a bit lately (for example, with a couple of rose fragrances, Sonoma Scent Studio Voile de Violette and Rose Volupte), but I'm rather flumoxed about what direction(s) to take my florals quest -- do I look for something floral fruity? Vegetal rooty? Dark and dangerous (chypres are largely a no-go for me)? Light and airy? Innocent yet flirty?

    How do all of you like your florals and why? What are some of your favorites in your various floral categories? Are there any that have been out-of-the-park homeruns? Utter stinkers?

    I can't wait to hear about your loves, adventures, and disasters!

  2. #2

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    I really liked VC&A Carmine Lily (I don't think that is the precise name) when I sampled it. It had a lushness and an airiness at the same time. It was a little bit spicy and and a little bit sultry and a little bit magical. That one sticks out in my mind. I'll have to think about this and post again because I am a floral girl, so I'm sure I have lots to talk about. I'll be interested in others' posts. I love all florals from lush and humid to light and airy. I always think of late winter/early spring as the perfect time for Diorissimo. Utter stinkers for me usually have more to do with the bases than the floral notes. If your florals have been big and white maybe you should change to something a little darker and slightly dryer - like violet, though it is fleeting. What is Voile de Violette about? That sounds interesting.

  3. #3
    teardrop's Avatar
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    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Favourites of mine that l highly recommend are Annick Goutal's Un Matin d'Orage, perfect for a dewy-fresh spring day, & the classic Caron Narcisse Noir; l have a vintage EDT whose very scent makes me feel the sap rising. And of course, vintage Diorissimo.

    Yes, l too am longing for spring to come.
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  4. #4

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    When the spring comes, or when I crave for spring like sun and happiness, I go for a couple of things that start with a white and green explosion: my much beloved Paco Rabanne Metal, vintage Joy, and (as lilybelle) vintage Diorissimo. The opening, to me, is like frolicking merrily in a field full of flowers. But the good thing is that these perfumes then evolve into other interesting ways. Metal sheds the lily of the valley and becomes strangely metallic-oily. Joy and Diorissimo, while remaining floral, become ever more dirty and flirty with their luscious civet. (Regrettably, one has to go for vintage. Diorissimo is sharp or dull in its current form, depending on concentration).

    I also go a lot for green florals - though these tend to come in chypre form, which you don't like. Still, Jacomo Silences is not chypre. Ormonde Jayne Tiare is, but not much, and it is indeed very relaxed. Chamade is still worthy, if not as good as vintage.

    I've also been looking for realistic gardenias - but these aren't really about the spring happy spirit. They're big, dirty, vampish, perhaps more suited to the fall. JAR Jardenia with its porcini mushrooms, and Une Voix Noire with its dark tobacco.

    cacio

  5. #5
    teardrop's Avatar
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    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    l nearly forgot Tauer's Carillon pour un Ange; a beautiful & complex lily of the valley complete with stems, leaves & mossy earth. l sampled this last year & really need to get a decant in time for this spring!
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  6. #6

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    teardrop just mentioend two great ones. Un Matin D'Orage is a brilliant spring fragrance but very light on the skin - starts like an aquatic gardenia and morphs into a fig. Carillon Pour Un Ange is an incredible piece of work - I need a bottle of that one soon, done a big 180 on it.

    My florals? My current favourites:

    The rich, exotic, over the top Rubj EDP by Vero Profumo: narcotic orange blossom and tuberose, a pinch of cumin, bitter greenery all overloaded with a flourescent tropical citrus fruit accord. Fabulous!

    Secret Garden by Aftelier Perfumes is my "go-to" floral - rose, jasmine, blue lotus (aquatic gardenia) and raspberry atop a rich civet/patchouli base. Classical, grand, and beautifully balanced - a perfect spring fragrance.
    Haute Claire by Aftelier is one of my all time favourite fragrances. An incredible ylang ylang floral with honeysuckle and galbanum - truly a standout.

    For a cheap cheerful summer scent I also really like Lys Soleia by Guerlain. A lily/ylang ylang creamy floral with a traditional Guerlain vanilla underneath - simple and lovely!

  7. #7

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    When the spring comes, or when I crave for spring like sun and happiness, I go for a couple of things that start with a white and green explosion: my much beloved Paco Rabanne Metal, vintage Joy, and (as lilybelle) vintage Diorissimo. The opening, to me, is like frolicking merrily in a field full of flowers. But the good thing is that these perfumes then evolve into other interesting ways. Metal sheds the lily of the valley and becomes strangely metallic-oily. Joy and Diorissimo, while remaining floral, become ever more dirty and flirty with their luscious civet. (Regrettably, one has to go for vintage. Diorissimo is sharp or dull in its current form, depending on concentration).

    I also go a lot for green florals - though these tend to come in chypre form, which you don't like. Still, Jacomo Silences is not chypre. Ormonde Jayne Tiare is, but not much, and it is indeed very relaxed. Chamade is still worthy, if not as good as vintage.

    I've also been looking for realistic gardenias - but these aren't really about the spring happy spirit. They're big, dirty, vampish, perhaps more suited to the fall. JAR Jardenia with its porcini mushrooms, and Une Voix Noire with its dark tobacco.

    cacio
    My tastes are very much aligned with cacio's for spring. Cacio do you find the dry down of Metal chewy? It's magnificent!

    Another green floral you might like to try is Jasmine White Moss from Estée Lauder's Private Collection. The jasmine is feathery light and the whole is a modern chypre. Also try Guerlain Chant d'Aromes, peachy, aldehydic floral, still nive but if you can get vintage please do try. I find it magical.

  8. #8

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Another thumbs up for Paco Rabanne Metal. It really is an interesting fragrance, yet still has a prettiness and doesn't go off into weirdness. It has a silvery metallic quality. I like Chamade, too. I like Annick Goutal's Grand Amour for its hyacinth and polleny lily. I only know the edp in that, and it is lush, but I might sample the edt some day just to try. It might be a bit airier in a lighter formulation.

  9. #9

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    For Spring I take my florals light and green.... My search continues. I will keep an eye on this thread for recommendations.

  10. #10

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    I think last spring and summer was all about the honey for me but as for florals, I do like me some violet as well. La Violette by Annick Goutal is a good one, Ellen Tracy Bronze is a decently priced violet. I think it's nice for the price, worth a sniff if one likes violet. I crave a lot of good ol' MJ Daisy for a floral fix, which also has violet in there and jasmine. I don't smell gardenia in it, which is good as I can't do that note much or at all, same goes with tuberose. Estee Lauder White Moss and Jasmine is one I will be craving as it heats up, so..I think I may need a decant of it or something before too long. And my avatar..I love me some lilac. After My Own Heart is a good lilac, Gucci Guilty is another lilac I like and Jo Malone's White Lilac and Rhubarb is definitely up there as well! And I wish to try En Passant as I haven't sniffed it yet but doubt I will dig that cucumber note! lol. I also dig carnation but haven't found too many carnation scents that I like. D&G's Velvet Love is nice, though too spicy perhaps for warmer weather.
    "One gives freely, yet grows all the richer; another withholds what he should give, and only suffers want." Proverbs.

  11. #11

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Quote Originally Posted by Pinkpetal View Post
    For Spring I take my florals light and green.... My search continues. I will keep an eye on this thread for recommendations.
    Ditto. Lily-of-the-valley is always welcome...

  12. #12
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    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    I like my florals to be mostly green notes like in Chanel No 19, Vintage Chamade or Ma Griffe. I also will wear some louder florals if they are blended well in a composition like Balenciaga's Prelude. I would probably wear any of the Balenciaga's they are so good! However, I usually stick to green or woody florals.
    Some people think luxury is the opposite of poverty. It is not. It is the opposite of vulgarity - COCO CHANEL

  13. #13

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Pinkpetal:
    light and green-have you explored Annick Goutal? (Grand Amour, mentioned above, is heftier than most in the line, but will work just as well).

    Ali:
    I don't get chewy drydowns in Metal, more like oily metallic ... but now I'm curious... when the spring comes, I'll pay attention.

    cacio

  14. #14

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    ExtremeK, I know you said no chypres, but when early spring is in the air I love reaching for Sous le Vent. Its grassy, crisp, citric aura is sublime. It's a very modern chypre as I am not really into heavily oakmoss loaden chypres myself.
    Vega! I haven't wrapped my head around its floral composition. I think it is a peculiar blend of jasmine and mimosa/cassie on an oriental Guerlain-vanilla-y background. Have you tried it?
    Speaking of jasmine, a favorite of yours. My favorite solifore and not often talked about is Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier's Jasmin. Do sample it! It is fantastic, me thinks. All I could wish for on sultry summer nights smoking an evening cig outside.
    Rose geranium is another one that comes to mind. I like its fresh, crisp nature. It always makes me think of spring somehow. My favorite is Jardin du Nil. Malle's Geranium pour Monsieur is good if you get any longevity from it, even better, but also darker in mood, is Black Tie.
    Orange blossom. If you are into the classic Carons and like their heavy, oily nature plus their carnation house note, don't miss Acaciosa Extrait (a very unique jasmine-orange blossom mix, not unlike Narcisse Noir's floral heart) and En Avion Extrait.

  15. #15

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    I love the Basenotes community! There are some really intriguing suggestions here. I'm going to poke around a bit and compile a sample order. I'll share with you what I order, and I'll try to share my reactions as well once the samples arrive. Seasonal mini-quests with help from all of you may be my favorite thing about fragrance. Thank you all -- and if you have more suggestions, keep 'em coming!

    Quote Originally Posted by lilybelle View Post
    I really liked VC&A Carmine Lily (I don't think that is the precise name) when I sampled it. It had a lushness and an airiness at the same time. It was a little bit spicy and and a little bit sultry and a little bit magical. That one sticks out in my mind. I'll have to think about this and post again because I am a floral girl, so I'm sure I have lots to talk about. I'll be interested in others' posts. I love all florals from lush and humid to light and airy. I always think of late winter/early spring as the perfect time for Diorissimo. Utter stinkers for me usually have more to do with the bases than the floral notes. If your florals have been big and white maybe you should change to something a little darker and slightly dryer - like violet, though it is fleeting. What is Voile de Violette about? That sounds interesting.
    Lillybelle, VC&A Lys Carmin (I think that's the name) was in fact on the sample list I started putting together this weekend!! I think that's rather amazing because I've never seen it mentioned on the the SotD thread ... I love lillies as flowers, but I've only tried two in fragrance -- Serge Lutens Un Lys and Frederic Malle Lys Mediterranee. Those are quite different from each other, but I like each of them very much.

    And, to answer your question, Voile de Violette is absolutely wonderful. Here's the list of notes from the Sonoma Scent Studio website: Violet, iris, hint of rose, cedar, vetiver, violet leaf, tonka bean, hay, myrrh.

    It's predominantly a violet fragrance, but, on me, the rose is a very strong supporting actress (even though it's characterized as having only a "hint" of rose -- maybe my skin brings it out). The violet is not sweet or powdery in the least, despite the presence of the iris. Rather, I think the iris is of the vegetal type, and it, along with the vetiver and violet leaf, highlight the green, earthy (but *not* mossy) aspects of the violet. Picture a carpet of newly opened violets on wet earth in early spring after a good rain. The violet is both green and lush at the same time, and the rose gives it a jammy, almost plum-like quality in the opening. Then the violet, rose, and cedar share center stage for most of the wearing, at least on me. I have yet to locate the myrrh -- I hope I do find it because I love myrrh. One of Laurie's signatures, I think, is to anchor her fragrances with cedar and tonka bean, but the tonka seems to smooth out VdV rather than to sweeten it. If you'd like to sample it, let me know as I just purchased a full bottle of it last month.

    Oh, and Voile de Violette has *amazing* longevity. I wore it the other day and could still smell it in my hair in the shower after more than 24 hours!

    - - - Updated - - -

    I have a question for Lillybelle and forfreddie: how present/strong is the honeysuckle in AG Grand Amour and Aftelier Haute Claire? I ask because both of these fragrances otherwise sound like they'd be worth a try, but honeysuckle in fragrance *invariably* gives me a SPLITTING headache. I love the smell of honeysuckle, but every time I try a fragrance with that note, I end up in bed with the curtains pulled and towel wrapped tightly around my head.
    Last edited by ExtremeK; 13th February 2013 at 02:50 PM.

  16. #16

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post

    I've also been looking for realistic gardenias - but these aren't really about the spring happy spirit. They're big, dirty, vampish, perhaps more suited to the fall. JAR Jardenia with its porcini mushrooms, and Une Voix Noire with its dark tobacco.

    cacio
    I wish I could afford Jardenia! It's gorgeous. Have you tried Tom Ford Velvet Gardenia? It also has the porcini note. I had high hopes for Une Voix Noire, but it has a sickly sweet aspect that reminds me of black currant lozenges.

  17. #17

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Another vote for AG Un Matin d'Orage - perfect after-the-rain scent, wet leaves, damp earth and all. I also love Paul Smith Rose - fresh, dewy tea rose. Another light and pretty green floral is Diptyque's L'Ombre dans L'Eau -leafy blackcurrant and rose.

    I also like Penhaligon's Amaranthine - a vast number of notes are listed, but I get mainly orange blossom with the tiniest tiny hint of cumin.

    One I've sampled and wasn't sure about, and want to go back to, is Guerlain's Nahema, a dark and moody rose-iris.

    Or how about the gourmand rose-sandalwood-cocoa SL Santal Majescule? Or the delicious, sweet, almondy, powdery floral that is L'Heure Bleue (my newest love )

    ExtremeK I LOVE the sound of Voile de Violette! I love violet fragrances, and that sounds wonderful. Have you tried Sonoma's Wood Violet? If so how do they compare?

    Pinkpetal: I agree with cacio, you HAVE to try Annick Goutal, they do beautiful light and green florals. As well as Un Matin d'Orage, others I'd recommend trying include Le Chevrefeuille, Le Jasmin, Le Néroli, Rose Splendide, Rose Absolue and Ce Soir ou Jamais (another rose). In fact all the soliflores are probably worth a try.

    What a great topic, thanks ExtremeK

  18. #18

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Quote Originally Posted by ExtremeK View Post
    forfreddie: how present/strong is the honeysuckle in Aftelier Haute Claire? I ask because both of these fragrances otherwise sound like they'd be worth a try, but honeysuckle in fragrance *invariably* gives me a SPLITTING headache. I love the smell of honeysuckle, but every time I try a fragrance with that note, I end up in bed with the curtains pulled and towel wrapped tightly around my head.
    That sucks ExtremeK! If I'm honest, the honeysuckle is pretty intense, and paired with the sharpness of the ylang, it's extremely pungent, I can imagine if you're quite sensitive to this type of note it could be hard work - it pushes out the florals in brute force - it's incredible to smell, but I'm not too sure whether I'd like to risk a migraine from it! Haha.

  19. #19

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    ExtremeK, thank you for the Voile de Violette mini review. I need to check out SSS. I've been meaning to for years. About Grand Amour, I don't get as much honeysuckle as I do a polleny smelling lily, but the base is myrrh and amber, and I think a smidge of vanilla. It's a bit deep for a springtime floral, very romantic. Me, I don't get much honeysuckle in it. That's funny about Lys Carmin!
    Last edited by lilybelle; 13th February 2013 at 09:40 PM.

  20. #20

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    lilybelle sorry I sneakily edited the quote to specify on Haute Claire! I haven't tried Grand Amour but my mouth is watering at the description!! I need to try it so bad now hahaha

  21. #21

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    I've only tried one from SSS, I guess I need to try more.
    "One gives freely, yet grows all the richer; another withholds what he should give, and only suffers want." Proverbs.

  22. #22

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    GAH!! I've accomplished zero, zilch, nada, squirt, diddly squat today at work (to [badly] quote Julianne Moore in "Assassins"). I'm completely pre-occupied with my florals search. It's so fun, but I know I'll be paying for it the next couple of days.

    Quote Originally Posted by yellow_cello View Post
    ExtremeK I LOVE the sound of Voile de Violette! I love violet fragrances, and that sounds wonderful. Have you tried Sonoma's Wood Violet? If so how do they compare?
    ...
    What agreat topic, thanks ExtremeK
    Yello_cello, you're quite welcome! I have a FB of Wood Violet, too, and they are quite different although you will recognize that lush, jammy violet in both. VdV is softer, more floral, and more green than Wood Violet. There's also no sandalwood or spice in VdV, and those are both very present for me in Wood Violet. In terms of an emotional description, Wood Violet is for me a happy, energetic violet for a bright, sunny spring day. VdV is a quieter, contemplative violet for a foggy or rainy spring day. I think both are lovely.

  23. #23

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Quote Originally Posted by ExtremeK View Post
    Yello_cello, you're quite welcome! I have a FB of Wood Violet, too, and they are quite different although you will recognize that lush, jammy violet in both. VdV is softer, more floral, and more green than Wood Violet. There's also no sandalwood or spice in VdV, and those are both very present for me in Wood Violet. In terms of an emotional description, Wood Violet is for me a happy, energetic violet for a bright, sunny spring day. VdV is a quieter, contemplative violet for a foggy or rainy spring day. I think both are lovely.
    I need to try these ones, I really want to discover a new violet. Dans Tes Bras and Stephen Jones are my favourites - although I bought a bottle of DTB for my mum for Christmas becuase she adores it so I can't wear it now :P
    I guess Miriam is violet-heavy too so I'll consider that amongst a favourite.

  24. #24

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Lillybelle, Yello_cello, and Kalli (and anyone else), if you'd like me to send you samples of the SSS fragrances I have, please let me know. I have FBs of Winter Woods (sweet vanillic amber and smoky woods), Fig Tree (woody, green, earthy fig -- LOVELY), Wood Violet, and Voile de Violette. I've nearly drained my sample of Rose Volupte, or I'd offer that up, too, but I'm nearing a FB purchase of that one.

    If you love roses, Laurie does them *very* well -- I personally have struggled with rose as they tend to go all screechy on me. Rose Volupte is the first one that hasn't, and I think it's because of the plum and amber. Jour Ensoleille is another one that I can't quite decide on -- it's a happy chypre (which sounds odd, I know), and I like it more than any other chypre I've tried, but I just haven't fallen for chypres generally, including JE. I keep returning to it, though, as my nearly-depleted sample can attest.

    Just PM me if you're interested in samples.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by forfreddie View Post
    I need to try these ones, I really want to discover a new violet. Dans Tes Bras and Stephen Jones are my favourites - although I bought a bottle of DTB for my mum for Christmas becuase she adores it so I can't wear it now :P
    I guess Miriam is violet-heavy too so I'll consider that amongst a favourite.
    Forfreddie, I have a sample of Dans Tes Bras, and I enjoy it very much. It's sweeter and softer, like a violet angora sweater, than either Wood Violet or Voile de Violette, where the violets are much more prominent, at least to my nose. They're both worth a try, IMO.

  25. #25

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Quote Originally Posted by forfreddie View Post
    lilybelle sorry I sneakily edited the quote to specify on Haute Claire! I haven't tried Grand Amour but my mouth is watering at the description!! I need to try it so bad now hahaha
    Ah, that explains it. I edited my post, too, so there'll be no confusion.

    Thank you for the offer, ExtremeK, that's so sweet of you. I think I will go look at their website.

  26. #26

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Sometimes it takes me forever to make a decision. Not this time.

    Thank you so much, everyone -- your suggestions were wonderful, either in and of themselves or as a jumping off point for research. Here are the samples that made the list:

    Caron En Avion (neroli, spicy orange accord, jasmine, opoponax)
    Tauer Carillon Pour un Ange (rose, ylang, lilac, lily of the valley, jasmine, leather, ambergris, moss, woods)
    L'Artisan Parfumeur Passage d'Enfer (white lily, frankincense, aloe, white musk)
    Histoires de Parfums
    • 1873 - Colette (Grapefruit, Orange, Citrus, Tangerine, Bergamot, Lime, Lily of the Valley, Orange Blossom, Spring Flowers, Violet, Lavender, Vanilla, Caramel, White Musk )
    • 1826 - Eugenie de Montijo (Bergamot, Tangerine, White Flowers, Violet, Cinnamon, Ginger, Patchouli, Amber, Incense, Blond Woods, White Musk, Vanilla)
    • 1804 - George Sand (Tahitian Gardenia, Corsica Peach, Hawaiian Pineapple, Clove, Nutmeg, Indian Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, Rose of Morocco, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Benzoin, Vanilla, White Musk)
    • 1969 (Fruit of the sun, Peach, Rose, White Flowers, Cardamom, Clove, Patchouli, Chocolate, Coffee, White Musk)
    • Verte Pivoine (Peony, Ivy Leaves, Rose water, Rose, Mimosa, Gardenia, Rose Berry, Peony, Cedar, Sandal, Musk)

    Annick Goutal
    • Un Matin d'Orage (magnolia, jasmine sambac from Mysore, Sicilian lemon, Indonesian champac, green perilla leaves, ginger)
    • Grand Amour (white Lily, hyacinth, Turkish rose, honeysuckle, heart notes of amber, vanilla and myrrh) [Lillybelle, I decided to roll the dice -- hopefully the honeysuckle stays in the background for me, too ]

    Van Cleef & Arpels
    • Lys Carmin (lily, pink peppercorn, ylang ylang, vanilla, and sandalwood)
    • Muguet Blanc (lily of the valley, white peony, neroli, and white cedar)

    Ramon Monegal
    • Entre Naranjos (Tunisian orange flower, orange, petitgrain, neroli, amber, Indonesian patchouli)
    • Impossible Iris (Italian iris, Egyptian cassiopiae, framboise, ylang-ylang, Egyptian jasmine, Virginia cedarwood)

    Aftelier Perfumes -- forfreddie, I chickened out on Haute Claire; I hope Lumiere doesn't kill me!
    • Candide (black pepper, blood orange, pink grapefruit, jasmine grandiflorum, Moroccan rose absolute, frankincense, oppopanax absolute, myrrh)
    • Honey Blossom (mimosa, linden blossom CO2, orange blossom absolute, ambergris, benzoin)
    • Lumiere (honeysuckle, blue lotus, boronia, green tea, ambergris)
    • Secret Garden (bergamot, bois de rose, Geraniol, blood orange, jasmine sambac, raspberry (compounded isolate), Turkish rose, blue lotus, civet, castoreum, vanilla, deer tongue, benzoin, aged patchouli)
    • Tango (wild sweet orange, fresh ginger, coffee CO2, champaca, choya, blond tobacco, tonka)

    Tom Ford Private Blend
    • Champaca Absolute (cognac, bergamot, dyer’s greenweed, champaca, orchid, violet and jasmine, vanilla, amber, sandalwood, marron glace)
    • Neroli Portofino (bergamot, mandarin orange, african orange flower, amber)

    Then there were a few which don't really qualify as florals, but I couldn't resist :
    Parfumerie Generale Djenne (grey lavender, mint leaves, seringa blossom, cocoa beans, blue cedar, wheat absolute, myrrh, blond leather accord)
    Ramon Monegal
    • Mon Cuir (Russian leather, orange flower, Labdaceme, nutmeg, Indonesian patchouli, musk, Australian sandalwood)
    • Mon Patchouly (Indonesian patchouli, oak moss absolute, incense, bourbon geranium, Eyptian jasmine, and vegetal amber)
    • Cuirelle (Somali incense, Indonesian patchouli, bourbon vetiver, green cedar wood, cinnamon, extract of beeswax)

  27. #27

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    WOW ExtremeK that is a WONDERFUL selection of fragrances - I'm riddled with envy. Don't worry about the Lumiere, the honeysuckle use is much more minimal than in Haute Claire - although I wish you added a sample of that D: It is outstanding! Here is my write up on Lumeire though
    Be sure to keep in touch - a brilliant, varied, sample batch there.
    Secret Garden is one of my favourite fragrances EVER - it is truly, truly beautiful! One of my most treasured bottles. Tango is also a brilliant perfume which I need a bottle of.
    Have fun!

  28. #28

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Those should keep you occupied for a while! I hope you will post your impressions. I'd love to read them. Enjoy!

  29. #29
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    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Quote Originally Posted by ExtremeK View Post
    BIG WHITE FLORAL category (I'm a sucker for tuberose and jasmine), so I don't think I want to do more in that vein. And, my goodness, I do love a good violet.

    (chypres are largely a no-go for me)? Light and airy? Innocent yet flirty?

    I can't wait to hear about your loves, adventures, and disasters!
    i think we have very simmilar tastes here, i could repeat this too i love jasmine ,tuberose and dont like chypres as category although i appreciate them! and "like"

    so here are my 2 reccomendations:

    1. for voiolet i so much want to try and think it must be gorgeous Bois de violete from Serge Lutens but so little is said baout that perfume and i never tried so far, was thinking to order sample then this airmal thing came....

    2. Parfums de Nicolai...Le temps d une fete..., its white floral yet with a touch of metalic note on a light musky base, its not chypre..it has something dirty something snesual there but its not coming from any natural animalic thing...its amazing to me can smell dirty but its not....

  30. #30

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Quote Originally Posted by iivanita View Post
    i think we have very simmilar tastes here, i could repeat this too i love jasmine ,tuberose and dont like chypres as category although i appreciate them! and "like"

    so here are my 2 reccomendations:

    1. for voiolet i so much want to try and think it must be gorgeous Bois de violete from Serge Lutens but so little is said baout that perfume and i never tried so far, was thinking to order sample then this airmal thing came....

    2. Parfums de Nicolai...Le temps d une fete..., its white floral yet with a touch of metalic note on a light musky base, its not chypre..it has something dirty something snesual there but its not coming from any natural animalic thing...its amazing to me can smell dirty but its not....
    Hi, iivanita

    Very interesting recommendations -- as a matter of fact, I've adored Bois de Violette for several years and finally just ordered a full bottle of it on Friday Excellent choice!

    I've also tried Le Temps d'Une Fete -- but it didn't suit me at all for some reason. In fact, I didn't have much luck with Parfums de Nicolai generally due the more classical structure/feel of the entire line. Sigh. I sampled a good number of them, but the only one I could sort of wear is Sacrebleu. It's the same reason I have zero luck with Guerlain and Chanel.

    I just received my samples from Aftelier Perfumes, so I've begun sampling those -- Honey Blossom and Lumiere are up first. I really enjoyed forfreddie's blog review of Lumiere.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I've been wearing Aftelier Perfumes Lumiere and Honey Blossom for a couple of hours now, and I really enjoy both of them although they are quite different.

    Lumiere is sheer and delicate. I get very little of the opening "pear drops" that forfreddie describes in his review, but I absolutely agree with his description of the heart of this little gem: "its presence is almost a sensation rather than a scent." It's impressionistic, like a Monet. The blue lotus is the predominant note on my skin (I can't detect *any* green tea or frankincense on my skin ), and it is soft, diaphanous, and lovely without being *watery*. The interesting thing for me is that the heart of Lumiere has something in common with Dans Tes Bras -- that slightly salty, warm skin effect that balances and gives some shape to the otherwise sheer blue lotus.

    Lumiere is definitely different from my other florals, and I can't stop sniffing the back of my hand. In that sense, Lumiere is a success in my experiment. But at 3 hours in, it's barely a skin scent now. And at $210 for 30ml, that's relevant.
    Last edited by ExtremeK; 18th February 2013 at 02:54 AM.

  31. #31

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Fleur de Cristal, (Lalique) is a Diorissimo Clone, In White (Jesus del Pozo) Stella (McCartney) and my unsung treasure, Cabaret (Gres)

  32. #32

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    ExtremeK:

    Lovely to read your first impressions - although I have to admit I'm more excited for your reviews on Secret Garden and Tango :P <3 Honey Blossom didn't do too much for me so I didn't write about it and passed my sample on a while back. I like the honey blossom, but it's subtlty was a little tooo much for me, and it all felt a bit too minimal. Lumiere I found very intersting, considering it was a natural fragrance especially.
    Glad you enjoyed my write up! I have a good familiarity with the Phenyl Ethyl Acetate note anyway so once you've got your nose locked on it - honeyed pears it is as soon as you pick it up haha. It is subtle in this though - and I agree with the rest of your description entirely. It is extreeeeemely light on the skin. Honey Blossom similarly vanished rapidly. Although a big wearing of Secret Garden or Tango will last me a longgggggg time.
    Glad you're getting on with them though - The Aftelier line is truly fascinating, have fun sniffing through it
    Oh and keep this post updated, very keen to read your thoughts on everything.
    Last edited by forfreddie; 18th February 2013 at 05:25 PM.

  33. #33

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Extremek, I can't wear Le Temps d'une Fete either. I had the same reaction: for some reason it just didn't suit me. It should have, but it didn't. If you liked Sacrebleu you might like Guerlain L'Heure Bleue. I'm also hoping you'll update the thread with your impressions of the fragrances you sample. I love to read them.

  34. #34

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Quote Originally Posted by lilybelle View Post
    If you liked Sacrebleu you might like Guerlain L'Heure Bleue. I'm also hoping you'll update the thread with your impressions of the fragrances you sample. I love to read them.
    Why, thank you, lilybelle I'll do my best.

    As for L'Heure Bleue, that's a strike for me, too. Classical fragrances are just not my thing. I don't know if it's the structure, the notes, or what ... But I've just had zero success with all the Guerlains and all of the Chanels except for Coco.

    - - - Updated - - -

    So, I tested Aftelier Secret Garden today. I sprayed it this morning and at 4:00 pm, I can still smell it, so it certainly has more staying power than Lumiere. Unfortunately for me, that's not a great thing. I wish Lumiere had the staying power instead. (My impressions of Lumiere are below in post #30.)

    Forfreddie, I know you love this one, but it didn't work for me. It leaves me pretty cold, in fact, and it has nothing to do with the frigid temperatures outside.

    The perfumer indicates that the inspiration for this fragrance is the novel of the same name by Frances Hodgson Burnett, which I loved as young girl. Ironically, however, the fragrance develops on me in reverse order -- rather than starting out a barren garden and then awakening and blooming, it starts out with a cheerful brightness, thanks to the blood orange and bergamot, which I enjoyed. I got a quick hit of jasmine, and then it completely withered into powder with just a hint of rose. And there it's stayed. All. Day. Long. Sigh.

    There was a point in the withering where it felt a bit like Une Fleur de Cassie, specifically in the mid-range of UFdC's development, and I could sort of see how Secret Garden was *supposed* to be working. It just didn't work on me. I much prefer Une Fleur de Cassie, where the mimosa is a bit powdery, but the underlying funk is just fabulous. I swoon.

    Secret Garden strikes me as a modern fragrance with a classical vibe, sort of like the fragrances from Parfums de Nicolai. And, as I've mentioned before, whether it's Guerlain, Chanel, PdN, or Secret Garden, the classical thing just doesn't suit me. I've tried for a couple of years now, but I can't do more than appreciate them. They just aren't for me. But for someone who enjoys classical fragrances, I think Secret Garden could be wonderful.
    Last edited by ExtremeK; 19th February 2013 at 09:38 PM.

  35. #35

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Thanks for your thoughts ExtremeK, shame it didn't work for you though
    Don't worry, I love reading alternative points of view on fragrances I love, that's why I share so much stuff on these forums! Haha.
    The heart of Secret Garden on me where it turns linear and remains - is a rich, powder filled rose and deep jammy raspberry/jasmine combo which I love - the civet is so rich on my skin and the patchouli... oh man, it's gorgeous!
    It is definitly a classical structure like you said - and that normally doesn't work for me, I guess it's becuase the modern fruit isolates and some abstract floral notes in the heart (blue lotus?) kind of tweak it.
    I'm sure there are tons more loves ahead of you in your sample bags to come

  36. #36

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Next up is Annick Goutal Un Matin d'Orage.

    The gardenia in Un Matin d'Orage is a very "pretty" gardenia. It's creamy but never becomes Roquefort-y/mushroomy (although that's by no means a bad thing); rather, it's very well-behaved. And I would have loved it ... except for that BLASTED ozonic note (pun sort of intended).

    The opening was oh-so promising -- warm, creamy gardenia with just a bit of something funky. At first I thought I was getting the indoles I love so much in my white florals. But no. The bit of funk instead devolved into a very sharp, metallic shriek that singed my nasal passages. I kept trying to focus on the lovely gardenia underneath it, but it appears that I'm one of the people who gets utterly bashed by the "Orage" part of the fragrance. Were it not for that, this would have been FBW for me.

    Interestingly, this fragrance smells AMAZING -- no ozone, no metal, no shrieking -- on my boyfriend. Just dead sexy gardenia. So, instead, I'll be buying him at least a decant of it.

    Teardrop, forfreddie, and yellow_cello, thank you for the recommendation. Even though it didn't work for me, I found another stunning floral for my sweetie.

    Cacio, I have a decant of Une Voix Noire, and I love it. I'd love to try JAR Jardenia (and several other JARs). Between Uncle Serge's bell jars at Barneys and JAR at Bergdorf's, I guess I *really* need to take that trip to NYC.

  37. #37
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    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    So glad that it at least works for one of you!

    l'm enjoying reading your reports ExtremeK, keep 'em coming!
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  38. #38

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Quote Originally Posted by teardrop View Post
    So glad that it at least works for one of you!

    l'm enjoying reading your reports ExtremeK, keep 'em coming!
    I agree! Keep 'em coming
    For me, the gardenia disappears and Un Matin D'Orage pretty much turns into a fig leaf smell - dominated by Stemone (the note I'm guessing is a bit shrill to you) - it is ozonic, but I think it's easy to warm too, although heavily synthetic. Keep trying it, it may just grow on you

  39. #39

    Default Re: How Do You Take Your Florals?

    Quote Originally Posted by forfreddie View Post
    I agree! Keep 'em coming
    For me, the gardenia disappears and Un Matin D'Orage pretty much turns into a fig leaf smell - dominated by Stemone (the note I'm guessing is a bit shrill to you) - it is ozonic, but I think it's easy to warm too, although heavily synthetic. Keep trying it, it may just grow on you
    Full disclosure ... after a couple of hours, it was starting to give me a headache, so I scrubbed it. I'm such a weenie. I am, however, going to enjoy it on my BF.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Today I've been testing Van Cleef & Arpels Lys Carmin. I *really* like this one. (Thanks, lilybelle! ) And if I hadn't fallen in love with Serge Lutens Un Lys last summer, this would have been my lily.

    Lys Carmin and Un Lys share a lovely opening -- a lily in full bloom, with just a touch of green, from the instant the fragrance hits the skin. But where Un Lys deepens and intensifies (as Lutens fragrances are wont to do), Lys Carmin becomes fresher and a bit more green. And something quite interesting happens -- the pink peppercorn and whatever other unlisted spices are there (a touch of cinnamon, maybe?) cause the fragrance to open up and give the lily space to breathe. I can actually smell that happening. It's a really neat effect.

    But then the lily disappears. In fact, the whole thing disappears for about 15 minutes. And then a sandalwoody-vanilla begins to open up, with just a hint of that spicy lily underneath. The spice is still more cinnamon-y than peppery on me. Sweet freak that I am, I haven't been able to stop sniffing my wrist.

    At no time during my wearing of Lys Carmin did I get any kind of plasticky effect. But, if I'm honest, a side by side comparison of the drydowns of Un Lys and Lys Carmin does reveal a bit of a synthetic base in Lys Carmin -- I assume that must be the sandalwood (Iso E Super?).

    I like Lys Carmin a lot, but ultimately I think having both Un Lys and Lys Carmin would be redundant. So I took the plunge and went with a bottle of Un Lys.

    I do think I'm going to give Lys du Desert, Andy Tauer's fragrance for Luckyscent's Decennial, another run. That lily is very different from Un Lys, and when I wore it a couple of weeks ago, the sweet vanilla base in LdD made my eyes roll back in my head. Fan. Tastic.
    Last edited by ExtremeK; 24th February 2013 at 07:11 PM.

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