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  1. #1

    Default Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    to your opinion - there are houses that are mentioned frequently but maybe don´t deserve it and vice versa....

    Not sure about Annick Goutal - sometimes I am very disappointed by her scents

  2. #2

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    To me L' Artisan Parfumeur is very over rated. I simply don' t *get* this line...
    Everything passes. Everything changes. Just do what you think you should do.
    --Bob Dylan

  3. #3
    nyneve's Avatar
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    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Overrated:
    Lutens (very good to smell, not to wear)
    Goutal
    Dior
    Many Guerlain, (l'instant etc...)
    Villoresi
    Creed

    Underrated:
    Montale and his wonderful Aouds
    MPG (Soie Rouge)
    Frederic Malle (best best bestEau d'Hiver-En Passant-Le parfum de Therèse)
    Divine
    Last edited by nyneve; 11th November 2007 at 09:13 PM. Reason: forgot house
    A, quales ego mane rosas procedere vidi!
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  4. #4
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    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Now that you make me think ... almost all of the better-known houses are overrated in some aspect. But then, I'm so hard to please and tend to find just one FBW scent from each house. Except for, well (grinning at musse), L'Artisan, of which I own three.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    I think whether we rate something depends on whether house accords work with our chemistry. I get one well with Lutens, Carons, Creeds and most Diors but really don't get on with Goutals (they just fade on me...in fact I could barely smell Eau de Charlotte at all) and Chanels (stinky ashtray note).
    Although I've been a longterm devotee of Mitsouko, most Guerlains don't work at all well for me either.
    Still, I am loathe to write off a house just because their fragrances don't work with my chemistry. They'll work for others, and be loved by them, so who is to judge?

  6. #6

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Overrated: Bond.

    I have yet to find one that justifies that expense, not one. And believe me I have stood there at Saks and tried them!

    (but I'm sure they are fabulous on some)

    Underrated: Balmain (they give Jolie Madame and Miss Balmain away online)
    Last edited by Zibeline; 11th November 2007 at 10:50 PM. Reason: additions

  7. #7

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    This reminds me of a question in a different, recent, post regarding "iconic" scents in each fragrance house.

    I could say that Chanel is overrated, but it is only because stores mostly carry No. 5, Coco Mademoiselle, and Chance (and sometimes Coco.) If they put Bois des Ilse and Cuir de Russie on the shelf, I would reconsider. Even No. 19 has disappeared from all but one store in my city. There are no Chanel boutiques anywhere near here--or near most American cities, for that matter. (Les Exclusifs? What Les Exclusifs?)
    So, I give Chanel the overrated award for poor marketing.

    Underrated fragrance house? Madini. Unadorned roll-on bottles, inexpensive oil-based pure parfum, kick-butt staying power, formulas that have the courage to be different. I'm wearing Musk Gazelle right now. All I can say is, "Oh, wow."

    Underrated on this forum? Ayala Moriel. I know that some people question the high prices and low sillage of all-naturals, but her fragrances are beautiful creations. I have tried almost all of her line by now, and I know this for a fact. Some of them are absolutely breathtaking. The fresh, open, fragrance is what botanical aroma ingredients really smell like. Sure, synthetic aromachemicals are potent, dramatic, and can fill a room with fragrance for a low price. But don't you want to know what real things smell like? I do. And I have to say, I prefer the way they smell, even if I don't trail sillage like a high-powered motorboat. I just quietly sniff my own wrists and smile. I love them, I truly do.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Over-rated:
    Bond

    Under-rated:
    Les Parfums De Rosine

  9. #9

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    I agree that Bond is overrated in general and Chanel is overrated in terms of marketing only their "mass-market" scents. Coco is getting harder to find beyond the EDP and thank goodness #5 is popular else it would be suffering the same fate.

    Underrated? Hermes (though I haven't sniffed the Hermessences yet because I'm afraid I will love them!)

  10. #10

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Overrated - Definitely Serge Lutens

    Underrated - Santa Maria Novella

  11. #11

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Overrated: Bond No. 9
    Underrated: Montale Paris

  12. #12

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    overated: Chanel, Etro, parfums del rae (sp?), yosh (although I like one or two scents in each of these lines)

    underated: Balmain, Parfumerie Generale, newer creations by Caron, older creations by Patou, Bvlgari, Kenzo

  13. #13

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Quote Originally Posted by Indiscreet View Post
    I think whether we rate something depends on whether house accords work with our chemistry.
    Still, I am loathe to write off a house just because their fragrances don't work with my chemistry. They'll work for others, and be loved by them, so who is to judge?
    Good question, and the reason why I rather speak for myself and my likes or dislikes than declare something overrated or underrated.

    One gal's/guy's Holy Grail is another gal's/quy's overrated and overpriced crap and vice versa.

    Indeed, who is to judge?
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  14. #14

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Quote Originally Posted by tigrushka View Post
    Good question, and the reason why I rather speak for myself and my likes or dislikes than declare something overrated or underrated.

    One gal's/guy's Holy Grail is another gal's/quy's overrated and overpriced crap and vice versa.

    Indeed, who is to judge?
    I volunteer!

    lol

  15. #15
    DeeOlive's Avatar
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    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Perhaps the discussion should not be overrated versus underrated - but should be overexposed versus un-discussed, or undisplayed

    Under-exposed:

    I am always annoyed when large Department stores have only a few Guerlains - I remember (pre-internet shopping) scouring shops for L'Heure Bleu when I still lived in NYC - the sales woman at Bloomingdales informed me quite haughtily (and incorrectly) that it was no longer was in production and "don't you want a nice bottle of Shalimar?" They do have it these days, but it was frustrating at the time. My local Macy's is pushing My Insolence, and always has Samsara and Shalimar. But that's it. Sadly - many scent lovers in my age range are not "on the net" nor do they live in NYC, and Department stores in malls are where they go to spritz and sniff.

    Myurgia & Borsari: There are Italian and Spanish perfume houses get sort shrift online, in blogs...amazing that such a well known perfumer in Spain and Spanish-speaking parts of the New World like Myurgia, is rarely mentioned. I fell in love with a gift of 12 mini bottles of Borsari's, but try finding most or any of them other than Violetta di Parma.

    Caron: Am having a lovely discussion of Caron's in another thread and am now hunting them down, though they have a boutique in NYC, I'm told, have never seen them in shops.

    House of Rochas: Have also reordered Madame Rochas, and am about to try Tocade.
    The fragrance of flowers spreads only in the direction of the wind. But the goodness of a person spreads in all directions.
    Chanakya

  16. #16

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Quote Originally Posted by DeeOlive View Post
    Under-exposed: I am always annoyed when large Department stores have only a few Guerlains
    Hear-hear. In Copenhagen there's only very little Guerlain to be found. I do all my Guerlain shopping online, but I'd love to see more in the department stores, just to admire it.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Quote Originally Posted by DeeOlive View Post
    Perhaps the discussion should not be overrated versus underrated - but should be overexposed versus un-discussed, or undisplayed
    Much better.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  18. #18

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    I disagree, I wanted to talk about houses that are put ahead just because of fame and too much hooray instead of quality , compared to those not well known but with excellent scents.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Quote Originally Posted by Alicka61 View Post
    I disagree, I wanted to talk about houses that are put ahead just because of fame and too much hooray instead of quality , compared to those not well known but with excellent scents.
    But that's more about the attention the houses get (whether deservingly or undeservingly is again a matter of opinion...) than about some "universal objective rating system" which IMO doesn't really exist.

    The problem with the terms "overrated" and "underrated" is that they are basically saying that "anyone who does not agree with me (or doesn't share my taste) is wrong". That's why I always cringe when I see them used.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  20. #20

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    I understand why people think Bond are overrated. It's not that really. They're fun fragrances, but they are over priced for certain. My other hobby is riding rollercoasters (seriously!) so when they brought out Coney Island I had to have it. It's funny because it's quite marine-ish and normally I hate marines, but I bought it anyway, and it's become a real staple. I don't regret buying it but do think it should have been about £50-55 the bottle rather than the £84 it actually cost me.

    As for underexposed, I blame it on the sheer number of scents that get shunted out each year - the older classics get pushed to one side to accomodate all the celebuscents and other rubbish. I've worn Mitsouko for years and yes, you can buy the EDT in most department stores, but I had to go to Harrods Haute Parfumerie to get the parfum, which used to be readily available.

    The problem is there is just for too many new scents coming out each year. But I don't think this is a problem that is going to improve any time soon.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Overrated?
    I'd have to with the Bond idea- nothing wrong with them-
    But no holy grails, for me...

    Under?
    SMN
    Ava-Luxe
    Ayala, Liz, Anya
    Many drugstore loves- Emeraude, Tabu, Wind Song- to mention a few.

    And- psst-mharvey- don't smell too many Hermessences- you will like them !]

  22. #22

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Over-rated : Etro, Serge Lutens and Chanels
    Under-rated : SMN, Divine and Eau d'Italie.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    For me "rating" has something to do with cost versus quality, that's why I chose Bond as overrated. The importance of Lutens may be a bit exaggerated here, but the ingredients are first rate and you get a distinctive scent for your money.The bottles are plain and the scents are not...Bond seems to have it the other way around, IMO.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    I always through Serge Lutens was overrated...until I got to try the Paris exclusives, now I understand what all the fuss is about.

    Underrated - The Different Company. I guess they get their fair amount of discussion on here, but I think if I had only one house to wear everyday, this one would satisfy all my moods.

    Overrated - definitely Creed. I really just don't like any of their scents. They're "nice", but nothing to jump up and down about. I also find many of them have a weird, metallic note that bothers me. Don't throw rocks please.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Quote Originally Posted by Zibeline View Post
    For me "rating" has something to do with cost versus quality
    Rating is about the popularity of the scent and especially the number of stars and/or thumbs up (or down) it has received, it hasn't got much to do with its price tag.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  26. #26

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    To each his own but I do think that Parfums de Nicholai is underrated.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Quote Originally Posted by tigrushka View Post
    Rating is about the popularity of the scent and especially the number of stars and/or thumbs up (or down) it has received, it hasn't got much to do with its price tag.
    Maybe that's true on Basenotes, but not elsewhere. You won't walk into Saks or anyplace else and see stars and thumbs, but you will see a huge amount of hype for some scents and not others. Also price equals quality in the minds of many, there is no cache to a scent that you bought for 18.99 online but for a scent that cost 185.00 or 395.00 the suggestion is that you bought the best out there.

    I also disagree with rating being solely a function of popularity and whether or not many people wear it. Exclusivity seems to increase the "quality" image of many things, perfume certainly being one of them. Few people would argue that Toyotas are better than Mercedes because they are more popular, for example.

  28. #28
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    Quarry's Avatar
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    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Example of a house that no one is going to say is over-rated:
    Demeter
    Example of a house that no one is going to say is under-rated:
    Demeter

    Just an observation.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Quote Originally Posted by Zibeline View Post
    Maybe that's true on Basenotes, but not elsewhere.
    Not even fashion mags and other websites with perfume reviews?

    Quote Originally Posted by Zibeline View Post
    I also disagree with rating being solely a function of popularity and whether or not many people wear it. Exclusivity seems to increase the "quality" image of many things, perfume certainly being one of them. Few people would argue that Toyotas are better than Mercedes because they are more popular, for example.
    I did not say that popularity was the main, even less the sole factor, when talking about rating: the stars or thumbs are much more important, but it is a factor, too. A product with a steady long-time popularity might not necessarily be considered a five-star one, but probably at least a three-star one.

    Whenever there's yet another overrated/underrated discussion going on, I always wonder, who are the mysterious "raters" whose ratings are considered to be either "over" or "under": the masses? Professional or semi-professional perfume critics? Basenoters (and members of other fragrance forums)? Do these "raters" even exist?
    --------------------------------------
    Quote Originally Posted by Quarry View Post
    Example of a house that no one is going to say is over-rated:
    Demeter
    Example of a house that no one is going to say is under-rated:
    Demeter

    Just an observation.
    Actually I have seen it called underrated. Someone who thought that CdG scents were not only overrated but also "pseudocool", told everyone to get Demeter scents instead.
    Last edited by tigrushka; 12th November 2007 at 02:47 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  30. #30

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Quote Originally Posted by Zibeline View Post
    Overrated: Bond.

    I have yet to find one that justifies that expense, not one. And believe me I have stood there at Saks and tried them!

    (but I'm sure they are fabulous on some)
    Amen! I had a decant of Wall Street for a long time and it just did not seem worth getting a whole bottle for the price it costs. I only really like New Harlem. Otherwise this line is just not all that great to me. I saw a bunch of people who agreed.

    I don't agree, however, that L'Artisan is overrated. Maybe because I am such a fanatic when it comes to this line but I know that these scents are in almost everyones wardrobe and are absolutely gold. Just me though.

  31. #31

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Quote Originally Posted by EnvYuS View Post
    Amen! I had a decant of Wall Street for a long time and it just did not seem worth getting a whole bottle for the price it costs. I only really like New Harlem. Otherwise this line is just not all that great to me. I saw a bunch of people who agreed.

    I don't agree, however, that L'Artisan is overrated. Maybe because I am such a fanatic when it comes to this line but I know that these scents are in almost everyones wardrobe and are absolutely gold. Just me though.
    I have to say that I detest the Bond bottles...even if I loved one of the scents (which I don't), I think I'd be hesitant to spend all that cash to get such an ugly bottle! Probably the only case that I'd RATHER have a decant! Irrelevant I guess, because I've yet to try one of their scents that's moved me.

    I agree that L'Artisan deserves all the praise it gets...with such a huge, diverse offering, they really make something for everyone. I can sympathize with their pricepoint being a bit high for some though.

  32. #32

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Quote Originally Posted by tigrushka View Post
    The problem with the terms "overrated" and "underrated" is that they are basically saying that "anyone who does not agree with me (or doesn't share my taste) is wrong. [...]
    I am afraid this is an interpretation, you do not share with many, dear Tigrushka

    Like it, or not, we have been living with ratings for a while now, and rating systems are even popular and used strategically in the commercial world. Stock, credit, employees, movies, music, performers, and also perfumes are rated on a current basis. But only few rating systems are objective, and it belongs to the nature of such systems that ratings can only statistically be correct. Polls are sometimes subject to manipulation. And good old Chanel (as the best known example) wouldn't be the same today was there not a huge team of highly paid marketing pros in it's back! I think we can all see that. - Now can there be more precise terms than over-/underrated to express anybodies disagreement with public ratings and managed opinions? If ratings are subjective - why must I try to be objective criticizing them? Anyhow, the terms you want to dismiss are used in the real world daily, and I read little criticism about their use elsewhere.

    "overrated shares" 1'840'000 entries listed (Google)
    Last edited by narcus; 12th November 2007 at 03:47 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  33. #33

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Underrated:
    Caswell-Massey
    Hermes
    Guerlain (I know the house receives a lot of accolades but not enough for me! )

    Overrated:
    Bond No. 9
    Annick Goutal
    Dolce & Gabbana
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

  34. #34

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Oh, hear, hear!
    Underrated: Les Parfums de Rosine and Santa Maria Novella.
    I agree.

  35. #35
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    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Overrated:

    Creed (ducks and covers)
    Bond #9
    Dior after about 1990 (ducks again)
    Everything I've smelled from Tom Ford (dodges flying tomato)
    Armani
    Calvin Klein

    Underrated:

    Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
    Divine
    Lorenzo Villoresi
    Mazzolari
    Santa Maria Novella
    Ayala Moriel
    Mona di Orio
    Parfums Delrae

  36. #36

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    I think most people here have their own view of "ratings" for perfume and do not take the viewpoint of magazine people who have a vested interest in attracting advertisements too seriously. Most perfume reviews that I've seen in magazines are a superficial list of notes with careful and glossy pictures to project an image and few say anything like "save your money and look elsewhere" or look to compare one scent with another. On websites where people take fragrance very seriously there are some ratings, but again some websites accept ads so I would question thrilling reviews. There is no "consumer's reports" for fragrance where unbiased testers check for a variety of performance details.

    And I don't think anyone on this thread has suggested that people who disagree with our perceptions are wrong, just different.

  37. #37

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    This thread went from a fun rant to philisophical jibber jabber.

    ...I'm just sayin'.

  38. #38

    Red face Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Quote Originally Posted by sofresh View Post
    This thread went from a fun rant to philisophical jibber jabber.

    ...I'm just sayin'.
    I agree, and I also agree that Calvin Klein's stuff is very overrated and I think the Rosine and MPG lines probably do not get the attention they deserve.

  39. #39

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Overrated: D&G, Paul Smith, Diesel, L'Artisan

    Underrated: ST Dupont, Paul & Joe, Rancé 1795

  40. #40

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Quote Originally Posted by sofresh View Post
    This thread went from a fun rant to philisophical jibber jabber.

    ...I'm just sayin'.
    That would be philosophical jibber jabber.

    On Finnish music forums there have been many debates about the use of the terms overrated and underrated, and about the only type who uses them there is a juvenile ignoramus who knows only heavy metal music and action films and calls anything outside those genres (for esample the likes of The Beatles and Citizen Kane) "overrated".

    But please rant away. Some houses indeed do get more attention than others, and it isn't always only about the amount of marketing.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  41. #41

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    I would add Gres as underrated. Cabotine is sold here in Switzerland for a penny and completely ignored - the scent is fabulous and I am suprised with too low attention paid to this brand. Just my opinion.
    Last edited by Alicka61; 13th November 2007 at 05:40 AM. Reason: misspelled

  42. #42

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Underrated:

    Many Coty scents; L'origan and L'aimant for example, as well as Emeraude, but that is more widely available. Also the Balmains and whatever happened to Diorella?

    Laurence Dumont line (sold at Sephora). Reasonable and wonderful.

    Jovan Fresh Patchouli - get it at Walmart if you like a nice patchouli that's not too overwhelming.

    Overrated(and I know I shall be called a philistine):
    Malle's Noir epices and Parfum de Therese. I got these two as samples and in my perception have smelled them in other, cheaper incarnations.
    And they don't last on me.

    Comptoir Sud Pacifique - nice vanilla-y fragrances but they disappear way too quickly for
    the prices they charge.

  43. #43

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    I think B&BW has been coming out with some really nice edt's lately, they seem very underrated and underappreciated on the boards, but not in public. Since I see so many praises about Parfums de Nicolai and the Rosines, I wouldn't say they are underappreciated among us, but they should be more popular and widely available considering how nice they are. It's hard to believe the junk we get forced on us at our basic dept store perfume counters and what gets left out.

    I do like Chantilly, found at WalMart. I was thinking about getting another bottle, wore it in school. I don't think Chanel is over rated, since my whole family wears it and they lived in Paris and Italy and can buy anything they want. Everyone has something different, I wear Gardenia. My stepfather wears Drakkar Noir, I'm looking for something for him for Christmas to see if he likes it better. You can find plenty of that in the Dept store here, along with Calvin Klein & Tommy Bahama.
    Last edited by beachroses; 17th November 2007 at 06:32 AM.

  44. #44

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Jovan Fresh Patchouli, found a bottle in a Miami WalMart and it is just a mind-blowingly lovely green patch. Wow! Just had to chime in on that one....
    L'Erbolario of Italy gets no attention whatsoever and yes, they're hard to find outside Italy, but boy do they have some nice, reasonably priced scents. Their Myrrh is the best I've ever smelled, and I really love myrrh.

  45. #45

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Overrrated / over-exposed:
    Jean Paul Gaultier
    Chanel - the most available ones, you know who they are
    Givenchy
    Calvin Klein
    Alexander McQueen
    and almost all other designers, with notable exception of Dior & YSL
    edit: and Bond - what's it all about? I like neither the frags not the bottles. Good idea badly executed..

    Underrated/under-exposed, especially in the UK:
    Patricia de Nicolai
    Etro
    Montales
    Mona di Orio - but I want to keep her to myself a while longer

    edit:
    Selfishly, I am happy for some of my favourites to be under-exposed. They remain my private suppliers, and I don't want to wear what is easily available everywhere. I have a rlue of thumb that I won't wear what can be bought at Boots the chemist. Not because they don't sell quality (though the majority is poor stuff) but because everyone else is wearing them or they are easily identifiable. I simply prefer something less ubiquitous.
    Last edited by Sestra; 18th November 2007 at 02:35 PM.

  46. #46

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7 View Post
    This reminds me of a question in a different, recent, post regarding "iconic" scents in each fragrance house.

    I could say that Chanel is overrated, but it is only because stores mostly carry No. 5, Coco Mademoiselle, and Chance (and sometimes Coco.) If they put Bois des Ilse and Cuir de Russie on the shelf, I would reconsider. Even No. 19 has disappeared from all but one store in my city. There are no Chanel boutiques anywhere near here--or near most American cities, for that matter. (Les Exclusifs? What Les Exclusifs?)
    So, I give Chanel the overrated award for poor marketing.

    Underrated fragrance house? Madini. Unadorned roll-on bottles, inexpensive oil-based pure parfum, kick-butt staying power, formulas that have the courage to be different. I'm wearing Musk Gazelle right now. All I can say is, "Oh, wow."

    Underrated on this forum? Ayala Moriel. I know that some people question the high prices and low sillage of all-naturals, but her fragrances are beautiful creations. I have tried almost all of her line by now, and I know this for a fact. Some of them are absolutely breathtaking. The fresh, open, fragrance is what botanical aroma ingredients really smell like. Sure, synthetic aromachemicals are potent, dramatic, and can fill a room with fragrance for a low price. But don't you want to know what real things smell like? I do. And I have to say, I prefer the way they smell, even if I don't trail sillage like a high-powered motorboat. I just quietly sniff my own wrists and smile. I love them, I truly do.
    I second MADINI, as abysmally underrated. Or, a best-kept secret!:-)

  47. #47

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    In any case,

    Overrated: Creed, L'artisan

    Underrated: Comme des Garcons

  48. #48

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Overrated: Creed. Pretentious royal wannabes, probably the most vulgar marketing strategy I've seen anywhere for a long time. Can't even do quality control right so they pretend they're "all natural" and tell people it's like wine vintages. Whatever. And they sell at the most ridiculous mark-up (I've heard one very well-informed BNer mention that Creed testers cost 15 bucks each at wholesale price).

    Underrated: Parfums d'Empire, Heeley

  49. #49

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Yes I agree that Creed's overrated. Must go check out Madini....

  50. #50

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Overrated:

    Armani Prive
    Bond #9
    Caron post-Groupe Ales/Richard Fraysse (1998-today)
    Christian Clive
    Creed
    Parfums Delrae
    Tom Ford
    Parfums de Rosine
    Annick Goutal
    Jar
    Montale
    Mona di Orio
    Lorenzo Villoresi
    By Kilian
    Etat Libre d 'Orange


    Underrated:

    Jean Patou
    Gobin Daude
    Parfumerie Generale

  51. #51

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    For me, Creeds are basically overrated and Yves Rocher underrated.

  52. #52

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    I agree that Creed is overrated. Either that, or I simply "don't get it"

    Coty is underrated, but that is to be expected from a Wild Musk girl.
    I also think I have *personally* underrated Estee Lauder. What a treasure that line has turned out to be!

  53. #53

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Underrated: Parfums de Nicolai

    Overrated: Ormonde Jayne, Bond

    Actually, most great houses have overrated duds that slide by on their names. Serge Lutens particularly comes to mind.

  54. #54

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Overrated;
    Bond No 9
    Lutens
    l'Artisan
    Creed
    Malle
    Tom Ford
    and, as much as my heart breaks to say it, at this point in time, Guerlain

    Underrated:
    Lancome (the classics)
    Fragonard
    Leonard
    Estee Lauder
    Rochas
    Molinard
    Cacharel
    Quand on boit l'eau, il faut penser à sa source

  55. #55

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Overrated: Well, definitely Serge Lutens because I can't imagine any house getting that much adulation and NOT being overrated.

    Underrated: Parfum d'Empire comes to mind. Yes, people single out a couple of fragrances but not the house itself, which hasn't inundated us with many releases but instead has focused on a small number of very different and uniquely-conceived fragrances, that are on the whole very well-executed.

  56. #56

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Overrated:

    Penhaligon's
    L'Artisan
    Creed
    Goutal
    Bond #9
    Dior (the contemporary fragrances)
    Armani Privé
    Etro

    Underrated:

    Patricia de Nicolai
    Estée Lauder
    Caron
    Rochas
    Yves Rocher (some of their scents are really nice)
    Lancome
    Last edited by Fragranza; 14th May 2008 at 12:37 PM.

  57. #57

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Bond is way overrated. Last time I was at Saks, the employee had a cheat sheet that compared all of the Bond line to the Creed line. That's funny and yet oh so sad...
    Last edited by Maz24; 14th May 2008 at 05:54 PM.

  58. #58

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Quote Originally Posted by DeeOlive View Post
    Under-exposed:

    I am always annoyed when large Department stores have only a few Guerlains [...]

    [...]
    Caron
    Yes, I do believe both are sorely underrepresented where I live. No Caron to speak of, and really no classic Guerlain except Shalimar & Vetiver (Though Sephora has Aqua Allegorias, Insolence, L'Instant, etc.).
    Last edited by Bromo33333; 14th May 2008 at 07:32 PM.
    ===
    “… [I] recall thinking that the computer would never advance much further than this. Call me naïve, but I seemed to have underestimated the universal desire to sit in a hard plastic chair and stare at a screen until your eyes cross.” ~ David Sedaris

  59. #59

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Overrated:
    Creed (although I like Fleurissimo a lot)
    Bond No. 9
    Caron ...they look lovely in the boutiques but so many have been poorly refumulated and I feel like the house lives on former glory.

    Underrated:
    Jean Patou
    Last edited by Frenchie Day; 16th May 2008 at 01:22 PM.

  60. #60

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    I have to agree that Creed is generally overrated.
    I think Lalique is criminally underrated.

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