Nice! Thanks for sharing that bro!
Well. My friends, it's here, one of the my Holy Grails.
ETTORE BUGATTI (The Original,1992)
"It starts like a beautiful "citrusy" perfume, and slowly, slowly... it transforms in an heavy animalic scent"
Welcome in the Realm of Citrus and Castoreum, my friends!
When a I speak about "Ettore Bugatti", I can not help but be rhetorical.
This is not a perfume: this is an obscure MASTERPIECE of perfumery.
If Patou pour Homme deserves 10/10, well, "Ettore Bugatti" deserves 9.5/10.
I remember the first time I tried it, during the Nineties (no IFRA restrictions, no cheapies, no extreme dilutions, all luxury, all top-notch ingredients...) ...and I was astonished: I instantly realized I was in front of a pillar of Art of Perfumery.
Where can I start?
Well, if you thought to know what "longevity" is, you probably were wrong. If you spray "Bugatti" in the morning, you could be sure in the evening you can still smell it.... "seven hours longevity" is the minimum. That's due that the concentration is very high: in fact, when you spray it on your skin , it seems to have layered not water, but a sort of oil.
Let's go to most important factor, the olfactive pyramid (please note it's all hyper-concentrated)
*Top Notes: Aldehydes. Bergamot, Clary Sage, Lemon, Lime, Neroli, Rosewood
•Middle Notes: Carnation, Cedar, Jasmine, Orris Root, Patchouli, Rose, Sandalwood
•Base Notes: Amber, Benzoin, Castoreum, Labdanum, Leather, Oakmoss, Musk, Tonka Bean, Vanilla
There are two remarkably things: the initial burst, I'll say "explosion" of aldheydes and citrus; and the most shocking thing: the transformation of the "citrusy" notes (bergamot, neroli, lemon. limes) in "animalic" ones (leather oakmoss, castoreum) .... slowly along the day.
Doctor Jekyll and Mister Hyde at their best ;-)
...and what a pleasant experience!! Listen to me, my friends: the "citrusy notes" are NOT the usual , average citrusy ones... here citrusies, mixed with aldheydes, are far beyond any description. Not to say ther ending, with all these castoreum and amber-leather notes.
As someone said: "this could be the equivalent of Guerlain Shalimar...for Men".
I thought it many times, if it was a big brand perfume instead of small brand one...what a success!
I urge you STRONGLY to try "Ettore Bugatti" first version, if you can !!
Can you trust me, if I say you "Ettore Bugatti" it's far beyond the mass perfumery??
please note: there are at least 3 different versions:
1-blue box with "Bugatti" logo and "Frosted" bottle (1992),
2-blue box without Bugatti logo (mid-'90),
3 black box, transparent (no frosted) bottle ( in production).
I suggest to search and buy the number 1 ("Bugatti" logo) , available both splash and spray
Last edited by Andrč Moreau; 21st February 2013 at 06:31 PM.
Nice! Thanks for sharing that bro!
Wow! Just wow.
This is the bottle that should be avoided, the transparent one (with transparent, watered-down juice).
NOTE the SILVER cap instead of GOLD one.
Last edited by Andrč Moreau; 3rd March 2013 at 08:11 PM.
You can clearly see the difference. Thanks for that info also.
Thanks for sharing and for the extensive, detailed and informative illustrations.
I too have vague, but still pleasant memories of this scent, tested sometime in the remote past. A masterpiece of classy, tastefully crafted luxury.
Another intermediate -rare- version (on the right): transparent bottle but GOLDEN cap and brownish juice.
(This is a good one, although I suggest always to search for the FROSTED bottle -depicted on the left- with GOLDEN cap)
To be avoided: transparent bottle, silver cap, transparent juice
Last edited by Andrč Moreau; 3rd March 2013 at 08:38 PM.
Thanks Andre. I used to have this years ago, (in the frosted bottle). It was sold very cheaply all over Germany ~ approximately €10 for 100ml edt. It was lovely stuff, a sort of "soft focus" soapy fresh lemon fragrance.
" Only wimps swim with the current "
I am wearing-testing this today and I just should thank Andre for sharing this post - one of the best blind buys I have ever had. I agree with every word of Andre's post - this is an unsung masterpiece which shall sit just next Jicky.
My current top five:
Guerlain - Homme Intense
Angela Ciampagna - Liquo
Charenton Macerations - Christoper Street
Dior - Fahrenheit Absolute
Azzaro - Pour Homme (vintage)
My sales thread | Rare, discontinued & vintage stuff! Envy Men / D&g By Man / Yohji Homme VTG / Cacharel Nemo / Davidoff Relax & Many others...
My fragrance reviews | Ye Olde Civet Cat
This is a great 'hidden' gem. I have 2 bottles of it now. Compliments everytime I wear it.
Since "Bugatti" vintage perfume was never produced in big quantities, and since its quality is so high, well, I strongly suggest to grab all bottles you find. Prices are still affordable.
Raiders of the Lost Scent: Journey in the Realm of Lost Perfumes
Nice work Andre!
Could you please do a series on Dior Fahrenheit.
It would be really helpful for people seeking out vintage bottles.
There are many minis on ebay with a golden cap and a frosted bottle. Are these the vintage version? There seems to be a 30ml bottle as well.
1. Dia Man
3. Skin Graft
6. Hindu Kush
I've come across those minis also with the golden cap and am also curious to know.
Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve other individuals' acknowledgement or respect.
Thanks Andre, love and appreciate your reviews!
Thank you Andre as always for the analysis and the beautiful presentation!
Couldn't resist and bought this blind! I have total trust in Andre Moreau's appreciation of true perfumery.
"Smell with your nose, not your ears"
AC'S FAVORITES - Neil Morris Takashimaya, Xerjoff Nio, Profumum Acqua Viva, Creed Green Irish Tweed, Gandini Lime & Basil, Bruno Fazzolari Lampblack, Lalique Encre Noire, YSL Opium Pour Homme EDP, Acqua di Parma Colonia Leather, Acqua di Parma Intensa Oud, Perris Monte Carlo Oud Imperial Black and Slumberhouse Jeke