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  1. #1
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    Default Dissecting an (extraordinary) rare gem: "ETTORE BUGATTI" first version (The Original, 1992)

    Well. My friends, it's here, one of the my Holy Grails.


    ETTORE BUGATTI (The Original,1992)



    "It starts like a beautiful "citrusy" perfume, and slowly, slowly... it transforms in an heavy animalic scent"
    Welcome in the Realm of Citrus and Castoreum, my friends!

    When a I speak about "Ettore Bugatti", I can not help but be rhetorical.
    This is not a perfume: this is an obscure MASTERPIECE of perfumery.
    If Patou pour Homme deserves 10/10, well, "Ettore Bugatti" deserves 9.5/10.

    I remember the first time I tried it, during the Nineties (no IFRA restrictions, no cheapies, no extreme dilutions, all luxury, all top-notch ingredients...) ...and I was astonished: I instantly realized I was in front of a pillar of Art of Perfumery.
    Where can I start?
    Well, if you thought to know what "longevity" is, you probably were wrong. If you spray "Bugatti" in the morning, you could be sure in the evening you can still smell it.... "seven hours longevity" is the minimum. That's due that the concentration is very high: in fact, when you spray it on your skin , it seems to have layered not water, but a sort of oil.
    Let's go to most important factor, the olfactive pyramid (please note it's all hyper-concentrated)

    *Top Notes: Aldehydes. Bergamot, Clary Sage, Lemon, Lime, Neroli, Rosewood
    •Middle Notes: Carnation, Cedar, Jasmine, Orris Root, Patchouli, Rose, Sandalwood
    •Base Notes: Amber, Benzoin, Castoreum, Labdanum, Leather, Oakmoss, Musk, Tonka Bean, Vanilla

    There are two remarkably things: the initial burst, I'll say "explosion" of aldheydes and citrus; and the most shocking thing: the transformation of the "citrusy" notes (bergamot, neroli, lemon. limes) in "animalic" ones (leather oakmoss, castoreum) .... slowly along the day.
    Doctor Jekyll and Mister Hyde at their best ;-)
    ...and what a pleasant experience!! Listen to me, my friends: the "citrusy notes" are NOT the usual , average citrusy ones... here citrusies, mixed with aldheydes, are far beyond any description. Not to say ther ending, with all these castoreum and amber-leather notes.

    As someone said: "this could be the equivalent of Guerlain Shalimar...for Men".

    I thought it many times, if it was a big brand perfume instead of small brand one...what a success!
    I urge you STRONGLY to try "Ettore Bugatti" first version, if you can !!
    Can you trust me, if I say you "Ettore Bugatti" it's far beyond the mass perfumery??

    please note: there are at least 3 different versions:
    1-blue box with "Bugatti" logo and "Frosted" bottle (1992),
    2-blue box without Bugatti logo (mid-'90),
    3 black box, transparent (no frosted) bottle ( in production).
    I suggest to search and buy the number 1 ("Bugatti" logo) , available both splash and spray































    Last edited by Andrč Moreau; 21st February 2013 at 06:31 PM.

  2. #2
    Basenotes Institution sjg3839's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dissecting an (extraordinary) rare gem: "ETTORE BUGATTI" first version (The Original, 1992)

    Nice! Thanks for sharing that bro!

  3. #3
    Super Member Rubirosa's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dissecting an (extraordinary) rare gem: "ETTORE BUGATTI" first version (The Original, 1992)

    Wow! Just wow.


  4. #4
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    Default Re: Dissecting an (extraordinary) rare gem: "ETTORE BUGATTI" first version (The Original, 1992)

    This is the bottle that should be avoided, the transparent one (with transparent, watered-down juice).

    NOTE the SILVER cap instead of GOLD one.

    Last edited by Andrč Moreau; 3rd March 2013 at 08:11 PM.

  5. #5
    Basenotes Institution sjg3839's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dissecting an (extraordinary) rare gem: "ETTORE BUGATTI" first version (The Original, 1992)

    You can clearly see the difference. Thanks for that info also.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Dissecting an (extraordinary) rare gem: "ETTORE BUGATTI" first version (The Original, 1992)

    Thanks for sharing and for the extensive, detailed and informative illustrations.

    I too have vague, but still pleasant memories of this scent, tested sometime in the remote past. A masterpiece of classy, tastefully crafted luxury.
    Currently wearing: Citrus & Wood by Yardley

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Dissecting an (extraordinary) rare gem: "ETTORE BUGATTI" first version (The Original, 1992)

    Another intermediate -rare- version (on the right): transparent bottle but GOLDEN cap and brownish juice.
    (This is a good one, although I suggest always to search for the FROSTED bottle -depicted on the left- with GOLDEN cap)





    To be avoided: transparent bottle, silver cap, transparent juice

    Last edited by Andrč Moreau; 3rd March 2013 at 08:38 PM.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Dissecting an (extraordinary) rare gem: "ETTORE BUGATTI" first version (The Original, 1992)

    Thanks Andre. I used to have this years ago, (in the frosted bottle). It was sold very cheaply all over Germany ~ approximately €10 for 100ml edt. It was lovely stuff, a sort of "soft focus" soapy fresh lemon fragrance.
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  9. #9

    Default Re: Dissecting an (extraordinary) rare gem: "ETTORE BUGATTI" first version (The Original, 1992)

    I am wearing-testing this today and I just should thank Andre for sharing this post - one of the best blind buys I have ever had. I agree with every word of Andre's post - this is an unsung masterpiece which shall sit just next Jicky.
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  10. #10

    Default Re: Dissecting an (extraordinary) rare gem: "ETTORE BUGATTI" first version (The Original, 1992)

    This is a great 'hidden' gem. I have 2 bottles of it now. Compliments everytime I wear it.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Dissecting an (extraordinary) rare gem: "ETTORE BUGATTI" first version (The Original, 1992)

    Since "Bugatti" vintage perfume was never produced in big quantities, and since its quality is so high, well, I strongly suggest to grab all bottles you find. Prices are still affordable.
    Raiders of the Lost Scent: Journey in the Realm of Lost Perfumes
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  12. #12

    Default Re: Dissecting an (extraordinary) rare gem: "ETTORE BUGATTI" first version (The Original, 1992)

    Nice work Andre!
    Could you please do a series on Dior Fahrenheit.
    It would be really helpful for people seeking out vintage bottles.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Dissecting an (extraordinary) rare gem: "ETTORE BUGATTI" first version (The Original, 1992)

    There are many minis on ebay with a golden cap and a frosted bottle. Are these the vintage version? There seems to be a 30ml bottle as well.
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    Default Re: Dissecting an (extraordinary) rare gem: "ETTORE BUGATTI" first version (The Original, 1992)

    I've come across those minis also with the golden cap and am also curious to know.
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  15. #15
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    Default Re: Dissecting an (extraordinary) rare gem: "ETTORE BUGATTI" first version (The Original, 1992)

    Thanks Andre, love and appreciate your reviews!

  16. #16

    Default Re: Dissecting an (extraordinary) rare gem: "ETTORE BUGATTI" first version (The Original, 1992)

    WHY.YOU.DO.THIS.TO.US
    Thank you Andre as always for the analysis and the beautiful presentation!

  17. #17

    Default Re: Dissecting an (extraordinary) rare gem: "ETTORE BUGATTI" first version (The Original, 1992)

    Couldn't resist and bought this blind! I have total trust in Andre Moreau's appreciation of true perfumery.
    "Smell with your nose, not your ears".

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  18. #18

    Default Re: Dissecting an (extraordinary) rare gem: "ETTORE BUGATTI" first version (The Original, 1992)

    I have a bottle of the original formula and although it seemed a bit feminine at first, I've grown to appreciate it very much. Excellent longevity and sillage, as Andre said.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Dissecting an (extraordinary) rare gem: "ETTORE BUGATTI" first version (The Original, 1992)

    Andre,

    You are indeed correct about this beautiful scent. I have two bottles of the original and one from the black box. The Bugatti line is not seen much, if at all, in the U.S., but I have seven of them, all of which are extraordinary. They are:

    393. ETORRE BUGATTI-PURE BLACK
    394. ETTORE BUGATTI
    395. ETTORE BUGATTI (ORIGINAL)
    396. ETTORE BUGATTI BLACK EDITION
    398. ETTORE BUGATTI-DESIGN & MOTION
    399. ETTORE BUGATTI-DESIGN & MOTION EXTREME
    400. ETTORE BUGATTI-INFINITE BLUE

    I am very fond of them all. The last one I purchased was Infinite Blue. Quite unusual and it is nice to find something different now and again amidst all of the flankers upon flankers,

    Thank you for your analysis. It is spot on.

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Dissecting an (extraordinary) rare gem: "ETTORE BUGATTI" first version (The Original, 1992)

    Wow! You made my day. I recently bought a mixed lot of things for next to nothing because I noticed it included a 90% full bottle of Romeo Gigli. It also had a bottte of this just as you describe and picture it -- blue box, frosted bottle, golden juice, gold hobnailed cap. I paid no attention to it and had low expectations given automotive associations. Now I have something to look forward to.
    Last edited by schnozz; 27th May 2015 at 03:30 PM.

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Dissecting an (extraordinary) rare gem: "ETTORE BUGATTI" first version (The Original, 1992)

    Holy Crap! As I noted above, I acquired this quite by accident and I am only now checking it out. I am somehow reminded of the lyrics from that song by The Band. This is

    A true dead ringer
    For something like you ain't never seen
    Once you get it
    You can't forget it


    This Bugatti indeed suggests a familiarity not based on an actual past encounter but rather based on newly encountering near perfection – a confrontation with a mental ideal you didn’t even know you were harboring.

    If longevity of vintage juice is any measure of the quality of its making, then this also scores off the charts. It is as lithe and nubile as the opening bars of Prokofiev’s Peter and the Wolf. It could have been made yesterday.
    Last edited by schnozz; 29th May 2015 at 08:27 PM.

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Dissecting an (extraordinary) rare gem: "ETTORE BUGATTI" first version (The Original, 1992)

    Note to Andre: btw, my bottle came with a small brochure indicating that the fragrance and assorted other luxury goods were sold in "EB Collection" boutiques, which were located in Milano, Paris, London, Tokyo and St. Moritz.

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Dissecting an (extraordinary) rare gem: "ETTORE BUGATTI" first version (The Original, 1992)

    It is actually..something quite special.
    I use my bottle very sparingly.
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  24. #24

    Default Re: Dissecting an (extraordinary) rare gem: "ETTORE BUGATTI" first version (The Original, 1992)

    It's really good once the topnotes settle down, at first the lemon and aldehydes produce an unfortunate lemon pledge accord. I have the original blue box/frosted glass bottle. No regrets picking this one up, thanks for the post Andre!

  25. #25

    Default Re: Dissecting an (extraordinary) rare gem: "ETTORE BUGATTI" first version (The Original, 1992)

    Quote Originally Posted by acjigga View Post
    I have total trust in Andre Moreau's appreciation of true perfumery.
    Even both of these guys agree to the above statement:

  26. #26
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    Default Re: Dissecting an (extraordinary) rare gem: "ETTORE BUGATTI" first version (The Original, 1992)

    from an interview to Roberto Garavaglia

    "AM: A personal curiosity. I am big fan of "Bugatti" (or "Ettore Bugatti"), a scent named by fans -with some reasons- "Shalimar pour homme", produced by Diana de Silva in 1992, the one with the amber juice and car radiator-shaped bottle. I've always found a stunningly scent, out of this world, with its "citrus - vanilla - animalic notes" triple accord. Never seen anything similar. Could you tell me something about it?
    RG: Of course, the old "Bugatti"! I remember it very well, because I personally took charge of the cosmetic line. "Bugatti" played around a contrasting set of different citrus notes mixed with vanilla, ending with a triumph of castoreum. It began in a typical mood, then evolved in another one, and finally ended in a third different mood.
    A true evolution on male skin: those were times...."


    original here:
    http://raidersofthelostscent.blogspo...interview.html
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