Caron Tabac Blond - Current versus Vintage

[badarun]

Hello All,

Your feedback required for my query - how close is the current version of Tabac Blond compared to its vintage version? Link below is from luckyscent that sells the EDP of Tabac Blond, which I assume is the current stock.

http://www.luckyscent.com/shop/detail.asp?itemid=55320

While on this subject - how reliable do you think are the supposedly "vintage" Tabac Blond that sells on ebay for $150+ (lets say the seller has a 100% positive rating)?

Thank you in advance for all your feedback...

[cacio]

The current edp is nothing like vintage (no smoke, no deep leather), so I'd avoid. As with most Carons, parfum is much better, though more expensive. But still, even that is controversial. Our Caronianus maximus Larimar, who will hopefully jchime in tomorrow, has a favorable opinion. I'm still uncertain. The top is gorgeous, it smells like a deep, top whiskey. Then I feel it looses itself a bit, too sweet, and it's not especially leathery and smoky, as I assume vintage parfum (which I've never smelled) should be.

As for ebay, I've never purchased TB. But I've bought several vintage things. It's risky, even with 100% rating, because often they are not in perfect state, something may have turned. It depends on how the bottle has been kept (light etc), but that doesn't depend on the seller, who got it from somewhere else. Usually, a box and a seal (on a parfum) could indicate higher quality, but not necessarily. And note that if the quality of the vintage juice is not perfect, you cannot send it back, unless the seller specifically said that it is in perfect state. So, my rule is never to bid anything I am not willing to lose if a frag turns out to be bad. Which likely explains why I've never been able to secure Tabac Blond, which typically goes for very high prices.

cacio

[sjg3839]

Expensive frag.

[Larimar]

Most of all, I think you should be aware that the EdP is not very much like the Extrait. Get nothing but the Extrait is my advice! The EdP lacks the depth and mystery of the Extrait. It's a rush of cigarette-y tobacco with a 'fresher' (very disturbing) note chiming in until it disappears fairly quickly into nothing.
The original jus (prior to mid 1980s is my guess) is rather different. It's a very animalic chypre in the style of Lanvin Rumeur, Scandal. There are some nice threads archived here.

[badarun]

I was already hesitant to purchase the one on luckyscent. Based on the few replies so far, it strengthens my position (not to buy). Lets see how many more BN might actually support a purchase like this.

[nsamadi]

I participated in a split of Tabac Blond Parfum when I first joined BN. This was 9 years ago. The vintage or older stuff was magical. I bought a decant a few years back on TPC and the recent formulation is garbage. Not worth owning.

[Kagey]

I really like the current edp. I'm not a vintage hound, though, so I don't know the vintage version - I'm sure I'd love it but I don't go seeking out vintage anything because I believe that way lies madness.

The thing is you have to smell it and judge for yourself. Asking other people's opinions comparing two things you've never smelled (unless you have smelled it, in which case apologies) is a bit absurd, because it's all subjective and you have no reference yourself. Get a sample of the current formulation and see what you think of it.

And there are a number of vintage perfumes I wouldn't trust from ebay. This is near the top of the list. I wouldn't go there unless you have advice from someone trustworthy, e.g., someone well-established here.

[david]

Peronally my nose cannot tell the difference between vintage extrait and the modern extrait. I have 2 bottles of vintage extrait and I have sampled the modern extrait at Roja Dove/ Harrods, a perfumery in Cannes and another in Toulon. All three places I sampled had the "fountain" urns. On two occasions I had one of my vintage extraits with me and was able to do a side by side test. I could detect no difference. I think this is another Luca Turin myth, created for marketing his book and getting everyone talking.

I would agree with the other posts that say the edp is different from the extrait and the extrait is superior.

[gandhajala]

I too, don't much care for the modern EdP. To my nose, there is a harshness, even scratchiness, to the composition. Never tried vintage EdP, but I suppose the usual caveats apply when buying old perfume from ebay.
I'm perfectly content with the current extrait. If you haven't already, then do give it a sniff.

[david]

I too, don't much care for the modern EdP. To my nose, there is a harshness, even scratchiness, to the composition. Never tried vintage EdP, but I suppose the usual caveats apply when buying old perfume from ebay.
I'm perfectly content with the current extrait. If you haven't already, then do give it a sniff.

Agree totally.

[cacio]

Turin Sanchez review the edp/edt, not the parfum, so his statements about reformulation of Caron usually refers to the lower concentrations, not to the parfums.

cacio

[alfarom]

I was initially excited by the current extrait but, lately, I developed a strong aversion to its unbearable rosey-soapiness during the drydown...Still trying to re-discover my old love for this fragrance....

[cacio]

Fraysse's love of soap is perverse. Many extraits start exciting, and then this annoying soap comes out to clean everything.

cacio

[alfarom]

Fraysse's love of soap is perverse. Many extraits start exciting, and then this annoying soap comes out to clean everything.

cacio

True! En Avion seems to skip this aspect, though.

[darkdreams]

I have only smelled one type of Tabac Blond- from my own bottle, which was bought less than 1 year ago. Does anyone know how to use the numbers on the box to determine the age? Thank you.

[david]

Fraysse's love of soap is perverse. Many extraits start exciting, and then this annoying soap comes out to clean everything.

cacio

Interesting, I hadn't noticed this aspect with Caron perfumes, but I find the Lanvin extraits all extremely soapy.

- - - Updated - - -

I have only smelled one type of Tabac Blond- from my own bottle, which was bought less than 1 year ago. Does anyone know how to use the numbers on the box to determine the age? Thank you.

How do you find it ?

[darkdreams]

How do you find it ?

I find it outstanding and love it a lot. But I haven't tried the vintage and maybe that is actually a good thing for the appreciation of what I have.

I noticed that the box lists oakmoss as an ingredient. I wonder if that is an indication of its vintage. It is definitely not very old, but maybe not the most recent one?

[cacio]

Resurrecting this since I think it's a good place to mention a youtube video I just saw. it's by a beauty editor at the Guardian, Sali Hughes, who interviews another journalist (I believe, I'm not up to speed on UK stuff). In any case, towards the end of the video, they talk about perfume in a knowledgeable way, very unusual for fashion and beauty journalists.

Anyway, the key point is when they talk about Tabac Blond, and how the interviewee says she's been given the vintage, stating that the drydown is completely different, and then they talk about how IFRA regulations have led to the reformulation of many perfumes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KR-Z0DfZ8AU

The part about perfumes starts at about 11:40, while the Tabac Blond part starts at 13:10. (The other things that are mentioned are No 5 and Encre Noire, plus perhaps L'Air de Rien, though they only say Miller Harris).

cacio

[ClaireV]

Thanks Cacio for this! Salli Hughes was actually the person who got me started on this hobby, after she wrote about her love for Philosychos. I had never heard of it, so I did a Google search and found Basenotes and Fragrantica, and the rest is history. Oh yes, she knows her stuff alright! And I went from spending money on face creams to expensive perfumes :-)

[cacio]

Indeed. She also has a video with her most used perfumes:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8_GVgUbXEk
a collection that, for the most part, I could see myself wearing.

cacio