There's a bit more reading to be done, though, because if you read between the lines you will see that pretty well anyone making perfume, including artisanal outfits where it brewed and bottled on the premises, are now living under the shadow of litigation if they are found to be selling perfume that someone might claim has caused a rash or allergic reaction and they do not have the 'but I am IFRA compliant' backstop to fall back on. The IFRA / EU regulations are a protection, and in this ambulance chaser world anyone selling stuff that may be fair game needs a backstop. Chris mentions this himself somewhere with regard to his own line.
Of course if there was a clear warning label on the packaging like there used to be with cosmetic products, all this could have been avoided BUT the industry, the IFRA members, in their wisdom no doubt decided it would scare off customers and cast a scary scientific light on the romance and luxury of 'perfume' so they dug themselves into this hole. Perfume is made by vestal virgins collecting flowers under a full moon at the equinox, not be people in white coats in labs, right? And they use 'only the finest natural ingredients', no chemicals . . . God forbid.
It's just staggering to me how this has all come about - talk about shooting yourself in the foot. BUT, as long as people keep having babies there will be a new customer base turning up to buy whatever confection has been foisted on the market and with absolutely no basis of comparison (because 10 years will be sufficient for most perfumes that are 'real' to vanish from the shelves) they will sail on blissfully unaware that they are paying to wear a facsimile, a poor copy, a distant echo of something that was once quite beautiful. It's an easy business decision for a company to make - they literally will not know what they are missing, unless Mum or Dad have a few old bottles lying around that somehow smell and feel different, so why not? The perfumers don't get a lot of say in the matter - the up and comings work with the budget they have been given and the more established ones mostly just shrug and roll their eyes . . . Wasser is one of a very few who have commented on this in public.
There will continue to be certain types of wonderful perfumes made, and some older ones need not change because they did not rely on the ever-increasing list of regulated or banned ingredients, BUT I don't think this issue is overstated because I know for a fact that many of the fragrances I know and enjoy have either been discontinued because they were impossible to make anymore, OR have been substantially changed to bring them in line with the current IFRA regulations. I'm pissed off about that but I knew it was coming and have back-ups etc. but that's how it is . . . the industry has effectively screwed itself when it comes to producing quality, while trying to maximize profit. No-one gets killed, so whether this is important or not is a personal decision . . . but to deny it is simply willful ignorance.