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  1. #1
    teardrop's Avatar
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    Default Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Starting this month with the last sample from freddie's goody bag; La Tulipe by Byredo.

    For a fleeting moment in the opening, the rhubarb note is very prominent, to my initial dismay. But then it calms down & combines with the freesia note to form a greenish, cool & fresh floral accord. Although it's not exactly natural-smelling, it actually produces a rather clever & beautiful abstract idea of a bunch of spring flowers. The fragrance is linear, but very diffusive, & lasts a good seven hours before fading.

    l've really enjoyed wearing this evocation of spring today. lt isn't challenging, but a thing of simple beauty, & sometimes that's all one needs.

    Thanks again, freddie!
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Replying to Dailey from the February thread regarding Bosque:

    You describe it perfectly! I get a good dose of saffron in there too. The thing that is great about Bosque is the wierd, salty, slightly metallic turn it takes whilst remaining lactonic and "sappy". I wrote a massive review of Bosque here: http://smellythoughts.wordpress.com/...aef-the-essay/
    Ok so I go a bit overboard - but I think this (relatively simple) fragrance, is outstanding But easy to dismiss as a just an easy to wear "cologne" - the fact it is that as well is perfect!

    As for me? Keeping with teardrop's theme of simple, pretty and spring-like. I sampled Rosenlust and Rose L'Orange last night by April Aromatics.

    Rosenlust is what you'd expect. A huge rose, touched with a hint of citrus and pepper - but all out, tea rose, a bit of jam, a bit of spice - rose rose rose rose rose. A dose of geranium keeping it very fresh. It successful smells like roses - and not like a rose perfume? Far too simplistic for me, but a fantastic almost meditative aromatherapy style fragrance none the less. I love the smell of it, but I prefer my roses with battery acid or cat pee you know...

    Rose L'Orange has a fabulous creamy, herbal, intense, grapefruit/rose combo that warms up to bring out a subtle but heavily narcotic orange blossom. The narcotics vanish and the blossom because quite disguised by the rose, a citrus note weaves in and out and it feels like a very dapper, traditional, floral EDC but more powerful. A vanilla drydown is absolutely gorgeous - but yet again, extremely simple, straightforward but nice. Charming perfumery relying on good quality ingredients in minimal compositions. Totally not my style but enjoyable from time to time!

  3. #3

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Nice review. Thanks for the info.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Quote Originally Posted by forfreddie View Post
    Replying to Dailey from the February thread regarding Bosque:

    You describe it perfectly! I get a good dose of saffron in there too. The thing that is great about Bosque is the wierd, salty, slightly metallic turn it takes whilst remaining lactonic and "sappy". I wrote a massive review of Bosque here: http://smellythoughts.wordpress.com/...aef-the-essay/
    Ok so I go a bit overboard - but I think this (relatively simple) fragrance, is outstanding But easy to dismiss as a just an easy to wear "cologne" - the fact it is that as well is perfect!

    As for me? Keeping with teardrop's theme of simple, pretty and spring-like. I sampled Rosenlust and Rose L'Orange last night by April Aromatics.

    Rosenlust is what you'd expect. A huge rose, touched with a hint of citrus and pepper - but all out, tea rose, a bit of jam, a bit of spice - rose rose rose rose rose. A dose of geranium keeping it very fresh. It successful smells like roses - and not like a rose perfume? Far too simplistic for me, but a fantastic almost meditative aromatherapy style fragrance none the less. I love the smell of it, but I prefer my roses with battery acid or cat pee you know...

    Rose L'Orange has a fabulous creamy, herbal, intense, grapefruit/rose combo that warms up to bring out a subtle but heavily narcotic orange blossom. The narcotics vanish and the blossom because quite disguised by the rose, a citrus note weaves in and out and it feels like a very dapper, traditional, floral EDC but more powerful. A vanilla drydown is absolutely gorgeous - but yet again, extremely simple, straightforward but nice. Charming perfumery relying on good quality ingredients in minimal compositions. Totally not my style but enjoyable from time to time!
    Just read your Bosque review Mate - awesome review. Seems like I picked out a lot of things you did, so that's good to know that I am properly appreciating the scents. Have really enjoyed the samples you sent me and looking forward to the last one - Ambra Nera.

    Have a good weekend guys

  5. #5

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Sample of the day was Serge Lutens' new La Fille De Berlin

    It starts as a straightforward (but nice enough) rose, pretty clean, sappy, a touch of jam, a touch of spice (pink pepper mainly). It seems to have a cool, mint note in the opening but so so subtle and it subsides quickly as the rose warms up. As the cool quality disappears as does any moisture and it seems to dry out in a similar potpourri style rose to Une Rose. The metallic note of rose oxide (oily/petrol smell) is thankfully subtle enough to just be an interesting angle (unlike Damascena where it dominates in a hillarious unbalanced but fun-to-wear-whilst-giving-you-a-banging-headache kind of fragrance). Some violet starts green and ends powdery, and the drydown brings on a subtle honeyed note, and some dry woods and musk - simple, uncomplicated, and nice. Little more than nice.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Sample of the day for me is Ambra Nera.

    Another good one Freddie (4 out of 5) ;-)

    Well no surprise that I get Amber from this straight away. I also get the smell of Halls Mentholyptus cough sweets, which is actually really nice. After about an hour I get a really nice Caramelly Vanilla, which is also great.

    All in all very nice!!

    Thanks again for the samples my friend :-)
    Last edited by Dailey; 7th March 2013 at 05:54 PM.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Quote Originally Posted by Dailey View Post
    Sample of the day for me is Ambra Nera.
    Yay the little sample selection was a success then - I'm still convinced you'll love Haute Claire in time :P
    Ambra Nera is just an awesome winter fragrance - my holy grail amber without a doubt.
    You're right about the mentholated hit up top (eucalyptus) - when it's sprayed, it's extremely smoky as well. It's perfect and the overload of animalic notes up top... so so good!

    Loved reading your little thoughts Dailey thanks for contributing!

  8. #8

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Quote Originally Posted by forfreddie View Post

    Loved reading your little thoughts Dailey thanks for contributing!
    Thank you for introducing me to some really cool scents that I would otherwise never have discovered :-)

    - - - Updated - - -

    Freddie, have you tried Declaration D'un Soir by Cartier. Strikes me as something you would like (awesome Rose note)

  9. #9

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Quote Originally Posted by forfreddie View Post
    Replying to Dailey from the February thread regarding Bosque:

    You describe it perfectly! I get a good dose of saffron in there too. The thing that is great about Bosque is the wierd, salty, slightly metallic turn it takes whilst remaining lactonic and "sappy". I wrote a massive review of Bosque here: http://smellythoughts.wordpress.com/...aef-the-essay/
    Ok so I go a bit overboard - but I think this (relatively simple) fragrance, is outstanding But easy to dismiss as a just an easy to wear "cologne" - the fact it is that as well is perfect!
    Great review of Bosque, forfreddie, that was a great read. I'm confident you've had the opportunity to sample the rest of the line; you've probably noticed that salty, sour, and sometimes milky combination seems to the line signature. It's very original, but I think it's often hit or miss. I want bottles of Geste and Bosque, but I find Clemency and Candour forgettable. Laudamiel seems to have carried over some of his ideas from S-ex; that salty, milky base is there too.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Quote Originally Posted by forfreddie View Post
    Replying to Dailey from the February thread regarding Bosque:

    You describe it perfectly! I get a good dose of saffron in there too. The thing that is great about Bosque is the wierd, salty, slightly metallic turn it takes whilst remaining lactonic and "sappy". I wrote a massive review of Bosque here: http://smellythoughts.wordpress.com/...aef-the-essay/
    Ok so I go a bit overboard - but I think this (relatively simple) fragrance, is outstanding But easy to dismiss as a just an easy to wear "cologne" - the fact it is that as well is perfect!
    Great review of Bosque, forfreddie, that was a great read. I'm confident you've had the opportunity to sample the rest of the line; you've probably noticed that salty, sour, and sometimes milky combination seems to the line signature. It's very original, but I think it's often hit or miss. I want bottles of Geste and Bosque, but I find Clemency and Candour forgettable. Laudamiel seems to have carried over some of his ideas from S-ex; that salty, milky base is there too.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Thanks for contributing null set! Yes I've tried the line You're right, that signature is just full blast in Bosque for me, but maybe it stands out becuase of the minimal setting around it.
    Candour I loved - fascinating perfume that I'd love a bottle of but don't have a sample D:
    Clemency also took me by surprise, I desperately regret not buying a bottle when it was on sale at Luckyscent... but yeh, not the strongest in the line.
    I couldn't be without my bottle of Bosque! :P It's a lifesaver for me. Geste was also absolutely lovely, but there just wasn't quite enough there for me to be interested, Putain Des Palaces does a similar thing for me that Geste would do.
    I'd love a bottle of Blask (fantastic perfume!!) and Candour Oh and Multiple Rouge, although I find it practically unwearable! - Still, I need it in my life :P

    - - - Updated - - -

    Oh and I thought really little to S-ex, a great concept made very minimal, quiet, and dull Oh dear... I know it gets its love out there though so I don't feel bad for saying that haha.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Been sampling a lot recently but was waiting for someone else to bump this thread :P
    Ah well!
    My sample of the night was Luctor Et Emergo by People Of The Labyrinths... and I'm in LOVE!

    What starts as a smoky, cherry, tobacco scent splashed with run, turns slightly more powdery and sweet with almond and vanilla. There is a rubbery note underneath with medicinal tones in it which smells a bit like a faux-oud accord (but it's perfect!).
    My favourite part is this dirty, dusty, mothball-like leathery note that runs loudly next to the cherry/rubber combo that dominates the heart of it. It reminds me of the part of Putain Des Palaces that smells dirty, but much louder (it also seems to share the same violet note), but mainly it reminds me of Blask by Humiecki and Graef as they also have this subtle "tannin" smell with cherry (that H&G market as a "red wine" accord) - basically, it's just hella awesome and I need it. The drydown is mainly a vanilla soliflore - and now takes my number one spot as a vanilla fragrance

  12. #12
    teardrop's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Freddie, it sounds like you're one step closer to finding your ideal vanilla!?
    Speaking of which, & l may have asked you this before, but have you tried Alien Essence Absolue? lt has a dominant note of cherry-almond heliotrope, & a gorgeous smoky vanilla drydown.

    Sorry l haven't got around to any more sampling yet this month, but l will!
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Quote Originally Posted by teardrop View Post
    Freddie, it sounds like you're one step closer to finding your ideal vanilla!?
    Speaking of which, & l may have asked you this before, but have you tried Alien Essence Absolue? lt has a dominant note of cherry-almond heliotrope, & a gorgeous smoky vanilla drydown.

    Sorry l haven't got around to any more sampling yet this month, but l will!
    You know what teardrop - I really think this is it!!! :O
    I'd like to say Untitled number 2 by Magnetic Scent comes a close second - although I can't really remember if it's vanilla dominated in the drydown... I think it is.
    Wierd thing - I LOVE Musc Maori but I don't consider it a vanilla I love :/ ... bizarre.
    I haven't - the fact it's Alien just puts me of but the rest sounds fabulous! :O does it still have that overpowering jasmine lead or evening anything remotely similar to Alien :') ? I used to like it, but it's without a doubt the most common perfume I smell on women in the public, I couldn't touch it now.

  14. #14
    teardrop's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Quote Originally Posted by forfreddie View Post
    You know what teardrop - I really think this is it!!! :O
    I'd like to say Untitled number 2 by Magnetic Scent comes a close second - although I can't really remember if it's vanilla dominated in the drydown... I think it is.
    Wierd thing - I LOVE Musc Maori but I don't consider it a vanilla I love :/ ... bizarre.
    I haven't - the fact it's Alien just puts me of but the rest sounds fabulous! :O does it still have that overpowering jasmine lead or evening anything remotely similar to Alien :') ? I used to like it, but it's without a doubt the most common perfume I smell on women in the public, I couldn't touch it now.
    Yay, freddie!

    The jasmine is there, but much more subdued than in the original. Overall l find it a more oriental version, & IMO much easier for a guy to wear. l'd love to know what you think of it if you get a chance to try it.
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    TIMBUKTU (L'Artisan Parfumeur / B. Duchaufor)

    A friend asked me to bang down my thoughts on this one, so great excuse to dig it out and ‘re-sample’ after a few years.

    I’ll be honest and say that Luca Turin’s review of this intrigued me enough to just go ahead and buy it – this was a few years ago when I got the ‘niche bug’, although it could probably be called the ‘what’s arriving from Luckyscent this week that I forgot I ordered’ bug.

    I was already a fan of Kyoto, having bought that the day it was released, so I wasn’t going in entirely blind – it was clear from The Guide that Duchaufor (along with Buxton) were pioneers of a sort and I wanted to find out more.

    The thing from the Turin review that really intrigued me was his comment that Timbuktu had a similar ‘effect’ as the grand-daddy of men’s fragrances, Fougere Royale. I have puzzled over this and think I get it now.

    My feelings about Timbuktu are the same today as that first week or so I wore it. It has a put-together crispness about it that while not ‘bracing’ like classic splash-ons of old, is incredibly satisfying. It has the same slightly moistened ‘snap’ to it that a glass of vermouth on a cool but sunny afternoon might offer.

    Opinions may vary about the woodiness, the booziness, even the smokiness of this one. It’s dry, in the sense of ‘sec’ as applied to vermouth or some wines, but it’s by no means arid – I personally flash on a boozy, aged dark woods texture that has maybe recently been rubbed with a fine alcohol / oil solution.

    I can’t help make a connection with Dzongkha, where it seems the DNA of this one has been used as solid wooden beams framing some cold stone or brick walls (courtesy of the iris) which really does evoke the interior of a Buddhist monastery I visited in Nepal (not Bhutan, but close enough) late one Autumn.

    The other thing Turin spoke eloquently about was the radiance of Timbuktu – I like the hi-fi analogy. It has a presence that is really satisfying to me – it seems no matter how much you want to apply it maintains a level that allows conversation . . . the mark of a good audio system, BTW. In the recording studio we would call this transparency, as in a transparent mix. I think this is where the Fougere Royale comparison is apt – it’s compellingly, consistently satisfying but never shouts. I should qualify that by saying that altho it is IMO a 'singular' scent it is by no means a 'one-liner'. There seems to be a bit of a trend to arm some modern niches with nuclear strength bases of vanilla, lavender and other synthetics to appeal to the 'longevity rules' set but Timbuktu retains a shifting airiness throughout that never leads to boredom - it's not loud and it doesn't speak in a monotone.

    Where it’s different from a fougere, of course, is that Timbuktu has a singular intensity about it as opposed to a three-tiered structure, (unless I’m missing a sleight of hand in the composition – which is quite possible). I think this is where it makes an interesting (and softly spoken) ‘presence’ that can easily entertain company – it has an incredible ‘openness’ to it. Dzongkha seems to me to be sort of Timbuktu + iris and I don’t doubt Mr. Duchaufor has toyed with other notes alongside, or inside, this idea – I’m really not up on his various works for other clients but my guess is that the idea has been developed elsewhere. I imagine there is at least some crossover in appeal for the whole Hinoki, Sequoia, Wonderwood clan and doubtless others, but Timbuktu has a purity that seems to allow it to stand apart from the other 'woods' out there.

    I would recommend this to anyone who is comfortable with a timeless transparent moistened dry woods idea who wants a singular ‘signature’ that is crisp and unadorned – there are no trendy ‘details’ here that will mark you as a fashion victim, and that’s a good thing IMO. Please dress accordingly ☺
    Last edited by mr. reasonable; 14th March 2013 at 03:11 AM. Reason: Others. Otters had a nice ring about it tho.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Pulp by Byredo is a great scent as well. I haven't yet had the pleasure of trying La Tulipe. This makes me want to go out and get some, haha.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Oh, Mr. Reasonable, lovely again. You have such a way with words, and I love your analogies, as they help with the ideas behind your smelling.

    This one was one of the first samples I got when I started out on this journey. I took the cap off, sniffed, and then promptly recoiled. I imagine it was the incense, as even now I am a soft incense rather than harsh incense lover. Never have I tried it since. I imagine I am more than ready now, but certainly after reading your review.

    Will sniff this, on skin , this weekend.

    This is why I love this thread!

  18. #18

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Quote Originally Posted by forfreddie View Post
    Sample of the day was Serge Lutens' new La Fille De Berlin

    It starts as a straightforward (but nice enough) rose, pretty clean, sappy, a touch of jam, a touch of spice (pink pepper mainly). It seems to have a cool, mint note in the opening but so so subtle and it subsides quickly as the rose warms up. As the cool quality disappears as does any moisture and it seems to dry out in a similar potpourri style rose to Une Rose. The metallic note of rose oxide (oily/petrol smell) is thankfully subtle enough to just be an interesting angle (unlike Damascena where it dominates in a hillarious unbalanced but fun-to-wear-whilst-giving-you-a-banging-headache kind of fragrance). Some violet starts green and ends powdery, and the drydown brings on a subtle honeyed note, and some dry woods and musk - simple, uncomplicated, and nice. Little more than nice.
    Nice review, been wanting to sample this one as i love Serge Lutens and rose, mind me asking where you obtained your sample?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by forfreddie View Post
    Sample of the day was Serge Lutens' new La Fille De Berlin

    It starts as a straightforward (but nice enough) rose, pretty clean, sappy, a touch of jam, a touch of spice (pink pepper mainly). It seems to have a cool, mint note in the opening but so so subtle and it subsides quickly as the rose warms up. As the cool quality disappears as does any moisture and it seems to dry out in a similar potpourri style rose to Une Rose. The metallic note of rose oxide (oily/petrol smell) is thankfully subtle enough to just be an interesting angle (unlike Damascena where it dominates in a hillarious unbalanced but fun-to-wear-whilst-giving-you-a-banging-headache kind of fragrance). Some violet starts green and ends powdery, and the drydown brings on a subtle honeyed note, and some dry woods and musk - simple, uncomplicated, and nice. Little more than nice.
    Nice review, been wanting to sample this one as i love Serge Lutens and rose, mind me asking where you obtained your sample?

  19. #19
    teardrop's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Quote Originally Posted by Shoshan View Post
    Pulp by Byredo is a great scent as well. I haven't yet had the pleasure of trying La Tulipe. This makes me want to go out and get some, haha.
    Thanks for responding Shoshan! lf you do try it, please comment in this thread with your thoughts!
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    OPUS IV (Amouage / J. Fiori)

    Re-sample of today is one I sort of missed first time round - one minute there were I, II & III and then there was VI! I have since picked up several samples and really enjoy it. I liked Opus II a lot and there is something of a link here for me, although whereas II has an almost austere simplicity like a ‘nu-spiced fougere’, IV is clearly setting out to win some hearts.

    The mix of warmth from the florals, a hint of violet leaf (?) is nicely suspended with the gentle spiced, mildly exotic accord. There is depth here, too – once that welcoming first impression steps back you are aware of quite a dense balsamic base that might at first suggest benzoin – the floral notes sweeten it up and add a bit of a powder to me – but after a time it becomes a little more ‘resolute’ and then backs off to act as quiet support. Deftly handled.

    I get a subtle waft of clove in the mix – maybe just suggested by familiar buddies like coriander, cardamom et al. I sense a distant link to Idole and Costes, both of which have a spiced booziness, although that aspect of IV is not as anywhere near as overtly “Hopper and Brando up the Mekong” as Idole.

    I really like the shifting tension between the sweeter elements and the darker base in Opus IV and the way it then settles into a really well balanced spiced powder just feels good.

    In these days of impoverished synthetics where pop-scents run out things to say after an hour or so it’s sometimes easy to forget that something as well blended as this is becoming something of a rarity. Opus IV is in for the long haul with that really arresting come hither aura – it’s reminds me a bit of those violet sweets (we used to call them ‘smokers’ when I was a kid) lightly brushed with clove.

    Nice one - I could happily own a bottle of this, although VI is next on my hit list . . . but then again, a couple of weeks ago when he was here Chris Chong said 'knowing me' I would like VII so, hell . . . let's wait for the cool black bottle version to show up and then decide

  21. #21

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Mr. Reasonable has gotten me all nostalgic regarding my perfume journey.

    When I first started my perfume obsession, I loved the travel theme essence of it. I, of course, loved the smells, but also the places and times we could visit just by experiencing different smells. One of the early facinations of mine was of the travel theme series of L'Artisan - Bois Farine, Dzongkha and Timbuktu. I am finally trying to complete this journey by smelling Timbuktu soon. But I tested another of the series today, to revisit it.

    Dzongkha by L'Artisan Parfumeur (Duchaufour)

    Some may call this an incense fragrance, but I think, as I did before, that this is an iris fragrance. There is iris from opening to end, offering a cooling touch to spices and warm incense. The opening iris is sweetened by a soft fruit that I cannot identify. But this soon transitions to the predominent smell of this fragrance, cool iris juxtaposing warm, gentle incense. A rounded cedar joins the base, and it runs along it's course with a calm, meditative approach. I do feel the name is appropriate for this fragrance, and I do understand how this became so very popular.

    I also remember disliking this years ago, but now it is calming and rewarding, as it represents my own journey I suppose.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Dzongkha is interesting like that, I think, cello - it is not an affable 'howdy, come on in' kind of piece. It took me some time to appreciate that it has quite a meditative message, but once I made my peace with it things changed - one of a few modern 'impressionist' classics in that sense of evoking a specific mood and place.

    Come to think of it, Bois d'Iris (The Different Company, 2000) may have a part in this discussion. It's a 'chilly woods'. The cool, damp iris is pretty much front and centre but paired with cedar in quite an unsettling way - it's not trying to be friendly at all. I wonder if this unusual pairing was a precursor for the 'unlikely duets' route taken by Ellena with Hermessences? It's way more strident here, tough stuff - but in it's own way a hint of what can happen when you add iris to woods - as Duchaufor so deftly did with Dzongkha a few years later, almost inverting the balance and adding one or two other 'liquid' florals to the mix.
    Last edited by mr. reasonable; 3rd April 2013 at 05:59 PM.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Today's sample was Ramon Monegal Mon Cuir.

    A short summary would be dirty musk lite Not a leather to my nose.

    It opens with a shadowy orange blossom, not really bright but very nice! It then started to transition to a birch tar note, and I was all set to enjoy the transition to leather that I thought was coming. The birch tar was almost mentholated and rough, but instead of harkening a leather note, it shifted to musk. Instead of dirty leather, I just got a dirty musk, never developing a full leather accord. There was a beginning of the illusion of leather, but it never developed.

    If I wanted dirty musk, there are better choices. If dirty leather is what you are after, there are certainly better choices. This one sits on the fence, but leans towards musk. It is pleasant in that aspect, and I enjoyed wearing it, but I was left at a crossroad of my taste.

    Give it a try, as your experience may vary. But I still say it represents dirty musk lite, and not leather. And therefore, is just average in it's purpose and even execution.
    Last edited by cello; 18th March 2013 at 11:39 AM.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Some of my most recent samplings: Givenchy Gentleman Only, Boss Bottled Night, Boss Bottled Sport, Hugo Just Different, Prada Luna Rossa, Guerlain Homme Boisee, re-tested Burberry the Beat, also Concentree d'Orange Verte.

    Rather a "mixed bag", but I'm surprised that these releases, most of them quite recent, do not always confirm my reticence due to genericness.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Cello, Mon Cuir was an absolute stinker on me. Awful. A literal scrubber. With rubbing alcohol.

    Today I'm sampling Robert Piguet Mademoiselle Piguet as part of my annual spring florals search -- which this year seems to be evolving into an orange blossom/neroli search.

    I've been largely striking out so far, but Mademoiselle Piguet seems to be an orange blossom that works on me without veering into the vinyl shower curtain accord that my skin often brings out of orange blossom fragrances. MP hasn't been getting much love on the blogs -- in fact, it's often dismissed as "girlish" ...

    Contrarian that I am, I really enjoy it. There's a brief moment at the beginning where it leans toward synthetic vinyl, but it almost immediately rights itself, and blooms into a true orange blossom. It's sweet but not overly so, nor is it sweaty and indolic like SL Fleurs d'Oranger. It's pretty and warm but with just an edge of sexy, thanks to a wonderful, smoky vanilla/tonka. It has moderate sillage and lasts for a good 7-8 hours on me.

    This isn't your brash Hollywood bombshell; this is girl-next-door sexy, of the sort that Kathy Ireland displayed so well in the 80s. I'm surprised by how much I enjoy this.
    Last edited by ExtremeK; 22nd March 2013 at 02:11 AM.

  26. #26
    teardrop's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Today l finally got around to sampling Seville a l'Aube by L'Artisan.

    l needed to try this one having read Denyse Beaulieu's wonderfully entertaining book "The Perfume Lover", which describes in delicious detail the story behind it & its creation by Bertrand Duchaufour. l won't go into the details here, but l highly recommend reading the book if it interests you.

    The opening is a fresh blast of petitgrain, candied orange blossom & waxy zest, quickly joined by a subtle lavender note. Shortly after, there's an undercurrent of something deeper, resinous & mineral-like. One of the reviewers mentions a "wet stone" note, which describes it very well. From here the scent stays fairly linear for several hours on me, slowly sweetened up by a vanillic benzoin in the base. The incense note is very faint, but the creamy blossoms are still present eight hours in as it's fading.

    l'm not sure l love this enough to need a bottle, but l think it's an interesting & rather lovely spring/summer scent, & l will definitely try it again when spring finally does arrive! lt certainly does conjure up the feeling of orange groves under a clear blue sky.

    ExtremeK, have you tried this one? l'm curious as to how Mademoiselle Piguet compares to it, as it sounds like there are similarities between them?
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    DRIES VAN NOTEN PAR FREDERIC MALLE

    Over the last few days I have worn this mega-dosed, with enough sprays to make some of the grown men here faint, and also with just a spritz to each wrist, to see how it performs.

    This one will confuse a lot of people, but if you are familiar with the fashion line, maybe not.

    It does not have a ‘wow’ opening – the brief tingle of bergamot is barely detectable as a note per se, and the moist, slightly lactose nutty accord is reminiscent of standing near the counter and catching that hint of steam coming off a coffee machine finishing off a hazelnut latté or something along those lines. It is not a ‘grab ‘em at the counter so they buy it quick’ approach – if anything, the opening is a little odd, although the underlying quality beckons, you can detect something worth sticking round for.

    A few minutes in things settle down and this is where it really does conjure up the mood of a friendly old style café with its lived in aroma of pastries, hot beverages, even old books and wood, offering a familiar ‘safe haven’ from the world outside. It’s not a full on gourmand, actually it’s a really pleasant, understated vibe – more of an ‘ambient scent’ than a perfume, which suits me fine.

    The much vaunted Mysore sandalwood (Santalum Album grown in Australia for IFF, as opposed to the native Australian variety) is not overt but I do get a sense of it in there somewhere - it melds nicely with the mildly gourmand accord and stays close for a good few hours.

    Dries van Noten par Frederic Malle performs in a similar way to Vetiver Tonka for me, albeit a little more quietly – a perfect companion for quietly navigating life, especially when traveling, where stangers and events are whizzing by and I am in my own space ‘inside, looking out’. I would recommend trying it on a scarf or inside of a favourite relaxed jacket or similar item – something from Dries van Noten would do the trick nicely ☺


    Last edited by mr. reasonable; 28th March 2013 at 08:16 AM.

  28. #28
    Basenotes Junkie benzganesh's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    OPUS IV (Amouage / J. Fiori)

    Re-sample of today is one I sort of missed first time round - one minute there were I, II & III and then there was VI! I have since picked up several samples and really enjoy it. I liked Opus II a lot and there is something of a link here for me, although whereas II has an almost austere simplicity like a ‘nu-spiced fougere’, IV is clearly setting out to win some hearts.

    The mix of warmth from the florals, a hint of violet leaf (?) is nicely suspended with the gentle spiced, mildly exotic accord. There is depth here, too – once that welcoming first impression steps back you are aware of quite a dense balsamic base that might at first suggest benzoin – the floral notes sweeten it up and add a bit of a powder to me – but after a time it becomes a little more ‘resolute’ and then backs off to act as quiet support. Deftly handled.

    I get a subtle waft of clove in the mix – maybe just suggested by familiar buddies like coriander, cardamom et al. I sense a distant link to Idole and Costes, both of which have a spiced booziness, although that aspect of IV is not as anywhere near as overtly “Hopper and Brando up the Mekong” as Idole.

    I really like the shifting tension between the sweeter elements and the darker base in Opus IV and the way it then settles into a really well balanced spiced powder just feels good.

    In these days of impoverished synthetics where pop-scents run out things to say after an hour or so it’s sometimes easy to forget that something as well blended as this is becoming something of a rarity. Opus IV is in for the long haul with that really arresting come hither aura – it’s reminds me a bit of those violet sweets (we used to call them ‘smokers’ when I was a kid) lightly brushed with clove.

    Nice one - I could happily own a bottle of this, although VI is next on my hit list . . . but then again, a couple of weeks ago when he was here Chris Chong said 'knowing me' I would like VII so, hell . . . let's wait for the cool black bottle version to show up and then decide
    The Advert for 2013 Opus VII is out - check out their facebook page.

  29. #29
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    TIMBUKTU (L'Artisan Parfumeur / B. Duchaufor)

    A friend asked me to bang down my thoughts on this one, so great excuse to dig it out and ‘re-sample’ after a few years.

    I’ll be honest and say that Luca Turin’s review of this intrigued me enough to just go ahead and buy it – this was a few years ago when I got the ‘niche bug’, although it could probably be called the ‘what’s arriving from Luckyscent this week that I forgot I ordered’ bug.

    I was already a fan of Kyoto, having bought that the day it was released, so I wasn’t going in entirely blind – it was clear from The Guide that Duchaufor (along with Buxton) were pioneers of a sort and I wanted to find out more.

    The thing from the Turin review that really intrigued me was his comment that Timbuktu had a similar ‘effect’ as the grand-daddy of men’s fragrances, Fougere Royale. I have puzzled over this and think I get it now.

    My feelings about Timbuktu are the same today as that first week or so I wore it. It has a put-together crispness about it that while not ‘bracing’ like classic splash-ons of old, is incredibly satisfying. It has the same slightly moistened ‘snap’ to it that a glass of vermouth on a cool but sunny afternoon might offer.

    Opinions may vary about the woodiness, the booziness, even the smokiness of this one. It’s dry, in the sense of ‘sec’ as applied to vermouth or some wines, but it’s by no means arid – I personally flash on a boozy, aged dark woods texture that has maybe recently been rubbed with a fine alcohol / oil solution.

    I can’t help make a connection with Dzongkha, where it seems the DNA of this one has been used as solid wooden beams framing some cold stone or brick walls (courtesy of the iris) which really does evoke the interior of a Buddhist monastery I visited in Nepal (not Bhutan, but close enough) late one Autumn.

    The other thing Turin spoke eloquently about was the radiance of Timbuktu – I like the hi-fi analogy. It has a presence that is really satisfying to me – it seems no matter how much you want to apply it maintains a level that allows conversation . . . the mark of a good audio system, BTW. In the recording studio we would call this transparency, as in a transparent mix. I think this is where the Fougere Royale comparison is apt – it’s compellingly, consistently satisfying but never shouts. I should qualify that by saying that altho it is IMO a 'singular' scent it is by no means a 'one-liner'. There seems to be a bit of a trend to arm some modern niches with nuclear strength bases of vanilla, lavender and other synthetics to appeal to the 'longevity rules' set but Timbuktu retains a shifting airiness throughout that never leads to boredom - it's not loud and it doesn't speak in a monotone.

    Where it’s different from a fougere, of course, is that Timbuktu has a singular intensity about it as opposed to a three-tiered structure, (unless I’m missing a sleight of hand in the composition – which is quite possible). I think this is where it makes an interesting (and softly spoken) ‘presence’ that can easily entertain company – it has an incredible ‘openness’ to it. Dzongkha seems to me to be sort of Timbuktu + iris and I don’t doubt Mr. Duchaufor has toyed with other notes alongside, or inside, this idea – I’m really not up on his various works for other clients but my guess is that the idea has been developed elsewhere. I imagine there is at least some crossover in appeal for the whole Hinoki, Sequoia, Wonderwood clan and doubtless others, but Timbuktu has a purity that seems to allow it to stand apart from the other 'woods' out there.

    I would recommend this to anyone who is comfortable with a timeless transparent moistened dry woods idea who wants a singular ‘signature’ that is crisp and unadorned – there are no trendy ‘details’ here that will mark you as a fashion victim, and that’s a good thing IMO. Please dress accordingly ☺
    Those are awesome perceptions mr. reasonable. The kind of thing that makes me want to keep coming back to Basenotes. Just wanted to point out that Turin was talking about the original Fougere Royale, not the reissue, which according to him has nothing to with the original.

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    DRIES VAN NOTEN PAR FREDERIC MALLE

    Over the last few days I have worn this mega-dosed, with enough sprays to make some of the grown men here faint, and also with just a spritz to each wrist, to see how it performs.

    This one will confuse a lot of people, but if you are familiar with the fashion line, maybe not.

    It does not have a ‘wow’ opening – the brief tingle of bergamot is barely detectable as a note per se, and the moist, slightly lactose nutty accord is reminiscent of standing near the counter and catching that hint of steam coming off a coffee machine finishing off a hazelnut latté or something along those lines. It is not a ‘grab ‘em at the counter so they buy it quick’ approach – if anything, the opening is a little odd, although the underlying quality beckons, you can detect something worth sticking round for.

    A few minutes in things settle down and this is where it really does conjure up the mood of a friendly old style café with its lived in aroma of pastries, hot beverages, even old books and wood, offering a familiar ‘safe haven’ from the world outside. It’s not a full on gourmand, actually it’s a really pleasant, understated vibe – more of an ‘ambient scent’ than a perfume, which suits me fine.

    The much vaunted Mysore sandalwood (Santalum Album grown in Australia for IFF, as opposed to the native Australian variety) is not overt but I do get a sense of it in there somewhere - it melds nicely with the mildly gourmand accord and stays close for a good few hours.

    Dries van Noten par Frederic Malle performs in a similar way to Vetiver Tonka for me, albeit a little more quietly – a perfect companion for quietly navigating life, especially when traveling, where stangers and events are whizzing by and I am in my own space ‘inside, looking out’. I would recommend trying it on a scarf or inside of a favourite relaxed jacket or similar item – something from Dries van Noten would do the trick nicely ☺
    Great stuff. I'll like the fragrance even if I don't like the way it smells. :-)

    Edit: Should have made it clear that I haven't smelled it yet. Looking forward to it.
    Last edited by pluran; 28th March 2013 at 10:44 PM.

  30. #30

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Thank you, pluran!

    It just happens that I've been trying Chypre Palatin these last 3 days courtesy of a basenotes friend in Taiwan and am also expecting some more from yet another friend in UAE in the next few days - so CP now has my undivided attention. It's a blast . . . and a moving target! Wow.

    Yeah, basenotes - there's still some life left in the old girl

  31. #31

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Thanks to a lovely BNer, sampling EL Private Collection Amber Ylang Ylang. It really, really reminds me of Guerlain's SDV. That rich, thick tobacco-y vanilla. With amber poured on top of it. Warm and thick. It actually was balmy on my skin..then got a bit more powdery. If one likes SDV, I would say to check it out. There is a bit of green to it, perhaps the geranium. But it's only a hint. It kind of like sniffing a vanilla pod. I don't get a lot of spice in this. Not really complex. It shares a lot of notes with SDV. Concentrated, a little goes a long way. Unisex I would say, much like SDV. One for the colder months. I'd say, if one wants perhaps SDV but doesn't want to pay that price..this one would be a good substitute.

    Thanks for letting me sniff.
    Last edited by kalli; 30th March 2013 at 07:12 AM.
    "One gives freely, yet grows all the richer; another withholds what he should give, and only suffers want." Proverbs.

  32. #32

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Sonoma Scent Studio-Encens Tranquille

    Encens Tranquille goes on with a familiar terpenic 'sheen', slips into a darker almost animalic transition, quite brief, and then relaxes and smiles at you around the ten minute mark with a beautiful frankincense hovering over a bed of myrrh . . . and with that, we seem to have arrived.

    And what a nice place to arrive at, too - it ain't Mecca, but it's certainly in the same neighbourhood. It took me a few minutes before it all clicked into place - I am a big fan of Balsamo della Mecca and it seems to me Encens Tranquille is in the same style of perfumery, but where BdM is (intentionally) redolent of crowds of people and a miasma of fragrant moments, ET is more about solitude and quiet. The gentle smoky, balsamic warmth is so well balanced in ET that it's almost like being suspended in time at 'magic hour', maybe a mile or so into the desert - just far away enough from the noise of civilisation to feel the immense silence beyond.

    I took a look at the notes mentioned for both of these and there is a convergence - frankincense, labdanum, myrrh being key facets - and I think I can safely say that if you like one you are almost sure to like the other. This play on 'biblical' notes is utterly different from the 'cooler' Avignon / Encens Flamboyant / Bois d'Encens canon, with their cathedral like interiors - it seems to evoke the outdoors, diffused late afternoon light, incense in the air and a very human sense of private tranquillity, that I associate with a very different tradition. I'm really happy to have been introduced to Encens Tranquille - incredibly evocative, consistent (a good few hours) and one that functions 'beyond' just smelling good.

  33. #33
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Very nice reviews mr. reasonable!
    We're all in the same game; just different levels. Dealing with the same hell; just different devils.

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  34. #34
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - March 2013

    Lovely review, mr. reasonable, l've been meaning to try some more from SSS, & that one's going on the list now. Thanks!
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.

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