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  1. #1
    Super Member jsparla's Avatar
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    Lightbulb Starting "open source" perfume formula's; donate yours!

    Dear all,

    i'm "into perfume DIY" for about three years now, did a lot of research, and noticed as you did, that there are not that many "useful" perfume formulations to be found on the internet.

    I started a much visited blog myself, with a dozen of perfume formulations, donated to the public domain, or open source community (i do, and so can you, still claim copyright; creative commons). So others can learn from them, more quickly.

    Please, all you (semi-) professional DIY girls and guys, with over a few years of experience and undoubtfully have over a dozen of rather successful formulations: share just one with us! (Or two, if you're in a good mood ).

    Send me your formulation (perfume@sparla.com) and i'll put it on my ever expanding blog. I think the community will love you forever

    Sharing=caring

    Best regards, happy perfuming!
    Last edited by jsparla; 12th March 2013 at 05:16 PM.

    Your'e welcome to visit my formulation blog, with a dozen of perfume formulations and accords to share!

  2. #2

    Default Re: Starting "open source" perfume formula's; donate yours!

    There are LOADS of open source demo formula's available from the big 5, all very easily searchable here:
    http://www.perfumersearch.com/index....id=12&Itemid=9
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  3. #3
    Super Member jsparla's Avatar
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    Default Re: Starting "open source" perfume formula's; donate yours!

    Hi Irina,

    Thanx, i know. Also TGSC (which is also indexed by them, i believe) has the "usual suspects" in perfume formulations.

    IMHO most of them are way to complex for staring DIY amateurs. And another thing is, they rely heavily on their own palette of chemical products; which is fine, but i don't have the complete Givaudan nor IFF ranges at hand

    But you're right, there are demo formulations findable
    I also hope that you can see that i'm aiming for something different here

    Happy perfuming.

    Your'e welcome to visit my formulation blog, with a dozen of perfume formulations and accords to share!

  4. #4

    Default Re: Starting "open source" perfume formula's; donate yours!

    Hi Jeroen,

    Sharing is always good!

    The thing I personally like about those demo formulas is that they offer a free way to really learn how to formulate like pro's do. And many materials can be substituted freely, thus giving space to experimenting. Like using the FO's you mention on your blog. Those are nice tools if you want to simplify such a demo.

    An example

    Accord N° 207808 ROSE (Firmenich)
    Application: Alcoholic solution: 5.00% ; Cream: 0.30% ; Detergent powder: 0.15% ; Shampoo: 0.50%
    The effectiveness of small amounts of DAMASCONE ALPHA is wonderfully demonstrated by this simple rose accord. It adds a completeness associated with natural rose, increases diffusion, richness, and gives a soft petal-like character.
    For Fragrance Only
    10.00 ALDEHYDE C11 UNDECYLENIC 10%
    20.00 ALDEHYDE C12 LAURIC 10%
    50.00 AMYL PHENYLACETATE
    480.00 CITRONELLOL
    20.00 EUGENOL
    50.00 GERANIOL
    120.00 LINALOL
    10.00 NEROL
    200.00 PHENYLETHYL ALCOHOL
    10.00 ROSE OXIDE
    30.00 DAMASCONE ALPHA (Firmenich) 10%
    1000.00 Total

    AMYL PHENYLACETATE can be for example replaced by upping the geraniol and rose oxide or adding a bit of aurantiol, same with DAMASCONE ALPHA (Firmenich) or adding a bit of rose otto or rose absolute. Or even one of those Rose FO's

    Just my opinion though!

    Happy formulating!
    Customized consultancy on olfactory branding, design & research
    www.irinatudor.nl

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    The facts on IFRA restrictions & EU regulations

  5. #5

    Default Re: Starting "open source" perfume formula's; donate yours!

    The good scents company also has sample formulas for each ingredient if you look in the green band where it says flavour/fragrance formulas.

    Here is a link for raspberry dicarboxylate for instance.

    Accord N° 208902 WOODY ORIENTAL (Firmenich)
    This woody, oriental men's fragrance gains a sparkling topnote and added diffusion / complexity with the addition of FRUCTALATE�. The aromatic notes are enhanced to give depth and complexity to the fragrance.

    10.00 CETALOX® (Firmenich)
    100.00 CEDRENOL
    20.00 COUMARIN
    10.00 DAMASCONE ALPHA (Firmenich) 10%
    130.00 DIHYDROMYRCENOL
    100.00 HABANOLIDE® (Firmenich)
    160.00 HEDIONE® (Firmenich)
    30.00 HELVETOLIDE® (Firmenich)
    200.00 ISO E SUPER® (IFF)
    10.00 LAVANDIN OIL
    50.00 LEMON OIL
    50.00 LINALYL ACETATE
    40.00 MAYOL® (Firmenich)
    10.00 MUSCENONE™ (Firmenich)
    10.00 VANILLIN
    50.00 NORLIMBANOL™ 10% MIP (Firmenich)
    20.00 FRUCTALATE™ (Firmenich)
    1000.00 Total

    Just oodles there. I think the chap/lady who invented that site needs a perfumers medal.

    PS nice thread. Good idea.

    - - - Updated - - -

    For something more simple. There are some easier beginner recipes here.

    All stuff can be subbed. Just look up the chemical and see what it smells like and use the nearest you have to it. Smell the result then adapt your own.

    Take the 0's off for drop sized recipes and dilute further when smaller than a drop is needed. So if 1 drop is in a 10% solution, then 0.5 of a drop can be 5 drops of a 0.1% dilution = 0.5 of one drop. Easy peasy pudding. Just go for it and make a smelly mess and have fun.
    Last edited by mumsy; 13th March 2013 at 05:47 PM.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Starting "open source" perfume formula's; donate yours!

    Quote Originally Posted by jsparla View Post
    Dear all,

    i'm "into perfume DIY" for about three years now, did a lot of research, and noticed as you did, that there are not that many "useful" perfume formulations to be found on the internet.

    I started a much visited blog myself, with a dozen of perfume formulations, donated to the public domain, or open source community (i do, and so can you, still claim copyright; creative commons). So others can learn from them, more quickly.

    Please, all you (semi-) professional DIY girls and guys, with over a few years of experience and undoubtfully have over a dozen of rather successful formulations: share just one with us! (Or two, if you're in a good mood ).

    Send me your formulation (perfume@sparla.com) and i'll put it on my ever expanding blog. I think the community will love you forever

    Sharing=caring

    Best regards, happy perfuming!
    OK so here is one of mine, its not a personal perfume but designed for use in a reed diffuser. I made a small batch and sold / gave them away one Christmas:

    Base notes (total 233)
    Benzoin Liquid Oil 30
    Hedione 10
    Olibanum 140
    Vetiver 50
    Ethyl vanillin 3

    Middle notes (total 173)
    Calone (10%) 12
    Floralozone 2
    Galbanum couer 2
    Orange Power (2%) 7
    Petitgrain 150

    Top Notes (total 594)
    Bergamot 300
    Grapefruit 186
    Lime 70
    Orange 38

    Total concentrate: 1000

    Notes
    If I was doing it again I'd use less base notes (though it's arguable whether olibanum EO or Hedione are base notes rather than middle notes), the benzoin was bought from a soap making supplier and is probably the resinoid at around 20% in DPG - not the sort of thing I use these days - now I'd skip that add a bit more hedione and use some vanillin instead.

    You could reduce the cost by replacing some of the olibanum with lemongrass, but the scent will have less depth and sophistication.

    The preponderance of top notes reflects the intended use in a reed diffuser: it would certainly not make a compliant fragrance for personal use, but stayed lovely and fresh to the last in use, which was the idea.

    If you're not familiar with the Givaudan product Orange Power it's worth investigating: as you can see I used only a tiny amount here and at that level it gives a very good, lasting orange note in combination with the real citrus. Use too much and it can smell very synthetic and even vomit-like so it needs careful dosing.
    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation I’m happy to quote: if you want free advice, that’s what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  7. #7
    Basenotes Member johngreenink's Avatar
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    Default Re: Starting "open source" perfume formula's; donate yours!

    Very cool idea jsparla, and thks for the additional info Chris and Mumsy...
    I have been looking for resources from which to begin mixing work, and I started out using the Givaudin formulas (the first I chose, the Amber Musk, I have to say was a big disappointment, but the second, Green Leaf Accord, was amazing.) In the latter case, I has already learned from my previous overzealousness and was more cautious about adding some ingredients that seemed suspiciously strong to me.

    What's interesting about any formulas is that they're a great place to begin and then reduce/add/change from their - this has been the way I've been learning through practice, so formulas are huge.

    Thanks!
    J
    Painting: www.johnbiebel.com | Music: www.ichigatsu.com | Recent Writing: Serge Lutens

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Starting "open source" perfume formula's; donate yours!

    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #9
    Trufflehunter's Avatar
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    Default Re: Starting "open source" perfume formula's; donate yours!

    OK here are two of my very early attempts. Both contain 'Fragrant Oils', which I no longer use, except in these two blends because I can't come up with suitable replacements from my synthetics that I've acquired since. If anyone can tell me how to make a 'Black Musk', 'Honey' or 'Rainforest' from synthetics I'd be forever in your debt!

    MARRAKESH
    Bergamot (Calabrian) Essential Oil 39
    Rosewood Essential Oil 10
    Tangerine Essential Oil 10
    Jasmine Fragrant Oil 8
    Rose Garden Fragrant Oil 19
    Rose Geranium Essential Oil 10
    Benzoin Siam Macerated Oil (50%) 58
    Black Musk 19
    Honey Fragrant Oil 19
    Labdanum Absolute (50%) 31
    Oak Moss Absolute (25%) 16
    Patchouli Essential Oil 10
    Sandalwood (2x distilled) Essential Oil 19
    Vanilla 10 fold Oleoresin (50%) 23
    Ylang Ylang Essential Oil 10
    Total: 300

    CALABRIA
    Bergamot (Calabrian) Essential Oil 13
    Lemon Cold Pressed Essential Oil 15
    Petitgrain Essential Oil 6
    Sweet Orange Essential Oil 15
    Tangerine Essential Oil 6
    Geranium Essential Oil 21
    Honeysuckle Fragrant Oil 11
    Michelia Alba Essential Oil 8
    Neroli Fragrant Oil 32
    Benzoin Siam Macerated Oil (50%) 67
    Black Musk 8
    Jasmine Fragrant Oil 11
    Labdanum Absolute (50%) 34
    Oak Moss Absolute (25%) 17
    Rainforest Fragrant Oil 21
    Vanilla 10 fold Oleoresin (50%) 8
    Vetiver Essential Oil (25%) 8
    Total: 300

    Both of these blends benefit enormously from allowing to stand for several weeks/months. All the floral fragrant oils are from New Directions. The other fragrant oils are from various, often dubious(!) sources. Now that I'm far more 'knowledgable', I've tried substituting the real things, like rose and jasmine absolutes, neroli EO, mixtures of synthetic musks to replace the 'Black Musk FO' but cannot replicate these original formulae. So I'm letting them stand as they are, reluctantly. Experiment, adjust and enjoy!

    - - - Updated - - -

    Hi Chris, and thanks for your contribution (this could be a great thread!). Just curious about "Orange Power" by Givaudan. Could I substitute Oranger Crystals or Aurantiol? If so, could you suggest proportions?

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Starting "open source" perfume formula's; donate yours!

    Quote Originally Posted by Ambolt View Post
    I feel sure I've seen that layout somewhere before . . .

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Trufflehunter View Post
    If anyone can tell me how to make a 'Black Musk', 'Honey' or 'Rainforest' from synthetics I'd be forever in your debt!

    . . .

    Hi Chris, and thanks for your contribution (this could be a great thread!). Just curious about "Orange Power" by Givaudan. Could I substitute Oranger Crystals or Aurantiol? If so, could you suggest proportions?
    On the Black Musk, have you tried Tonquitone? I'm assuming that it's fairly animalic. . . If you don't have that, try adding some civet, para-croesol phenyl acetate and indole to your musks blend (traces in all three cases).

    Both oranger crystals and aurantiol are orange-flower substitutes, while Orange Power is more like orange oil (though vastly stronger) so I don't think either would be a replacement. Octanal would be an alternative that is widely available and also very strong, though much more waxy than Orange Power.
    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    www.perfumedesigner.co.uk
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation I’m happy to quote: if you want free advice, that’s what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Starting "open source" perfume formula's; donate yours!

    This is my new man scent MAmber, because "man likes amber."
    I'm planning to sell this one at the markets; just trying to extend the longevity. I want to add a little Myrr too, but alas I do not have it in my collection yet! If it had that and a rum note, I imagine it would smell similar to Rocawear Evolution.

    Last edited by Ambolt; 26th March 2013 at 12:54 PM.

  12. #12
    Super Member jsparla's Avatar
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    Default Re: Starting "open source" perfume formula's; donate yours!

    Hi Ambolt,

    Nice formulation, thanks for sharing! I'd love to give it a try, but i lack a lot of the ingredients used
    Especially Cacao, Roasted Coffee and All Spice, where i don't have any substitutes at hand...
    Nice to see my musk mix accord formalized #LOL

    Reads like a formulation however to my taste! Great! Thanx!

    Your'e welcome to visit my formulation blog, with a dozen of perfume formulations and accords to share!

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Starting "open source" perfume formula's; donate yours!

    Jeroen, just go to the supermarket or bin-inn and get a small handful of fresh roasted coffee beans. Tincture them at 50% in alcohol, they will be done(ish) in a week! Same with the All Spice! Cacao is definitely optional in this I got mine as a free sample from eden botanicals when I bought some absolutes from them - smells just like dark chocolate.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Starting "open source" perfume formula's; donate yours!

    Hi I'm adding to the open scource. Hope you like y formula. I would like to commend the idea of an open source of formulas. I am not a fan or guarding to much information, its always nice to give back.

    I promised a few of you that I would put up my formula for perfume (12ml) create a cypher. finished weight approx. 1oz (29.6 ml)



    Description of Scent: NancyPantz rose, brightness, softness, leaf and sweet woods, smart

    (top) 3.6ml 30% total top
    2.6ml Rose de Mai
    0.5ml manderine
    0.25ml black tea

    0.25ml black pepper
    0.25ml glucam p-20


    (heart) 3ml 25% total modifier
    2ml Rose Damask

    0.125ml Damascone Beta
    0.125ml rose oxide
    0.25ml tuberrose
    0.125ml Peonile (G) 

    0.25ml jasmine
    0.20ml ylang ylang

    (base) 5.4ml 45%

    4.25ml white musk
    0.25ml gaiacwood
    0.125ml Opopanax-Sweet Myrrh Kenya resin
    0.125ml Iso E Super (I)
    0.25ml patchouli
    0.25ml sandalwood

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