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  1. #1

    Default Why do many aftershaves seem more refined than the EDTs?

    It's happened 3 or 4 times now.
    I have bought an EDT after owning the AS for a while and when I finally try it I'm a little disappointed
    Today wore Live Jazz and yes, it's stronger and longer lasting than the aftershave but I was immediately slightly swamped by cedar which doesn't happen with the AS.
    The same thing (almost) happened with vintage Monsieur de Givenchy, the EDT seemed to have a lot more civet than the AS which is very light but beautifully refined in it's balance of notes. Recently tried Jazz EDT and again it doesn't have the subtlety I expected.
    Maybe it's something to do with certain notes that are cut down percentage-wise in an aftershave version?
    Or maybe it's something to do with having "attuned" to a scent in it's AS version, and then being overwhelmed by a little extra of something in the stronger version.?
    I've just remembered Cerruti 1881 is another example of this in my collection.
    Any comments?

  2. #2

    Default Re: Why do many aftershaves seem more refined than the EDTs?

    I've noticed the same. For example, KL Homme is one scent that i prefer as aftershave. Another example I remember is vintage Givenchy Gentleman. Again, Aramis 900...
    "Le parfum est la musique du corps"
    (Marcel Rochas)

  3. #3

    Default Re: Why do many aftershaves seem more refined than the EDTs?

    Quote Originally Posted by df91 View Post
    I've noticed the same. For example, KL Homme is one scent that i prefer as aftershave. Another example I remember is vintage Givenchy Gentleman. Again, Aramis 900...
    Now you've got me wondering. Ialso own vintage Givenchy Gentleman as an aftershave, and it's superb. Maybe I'll not bother trying to find the corresponding EDT.
    No idea why it should be this way though?

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Why do many aftershaves seem more refined than the EDTs?

    I have never personally felt this with aftershaves.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Why do many aftershaves seem more refined than the EDTs?

    I don't use aftershave, so I cannot say, but I'm just tossing off another conjecture: with reformulations, many of the original basenotes are substituted with cheaper or more synthetic ones, which results in less refined, sharper or duller stuff. The aftershaves usually don't have basenotes, so the problem is less evident there.

    cacio

  6. #6

    Default Re: Why do many aftershaves seem more refined than the EDTs?

    I got a vintage Bel Ami aftershave splash today and it is stronger and projects more with great sillage than a lot of todays EDT's. I get four hours of strong projection then another three where it has quitened down but you can still smell it before it becomes a skin scent. Also if I leave a room and come back I can smell the spicy leathery goodness in the air strongly. Goodness knows what the Vintage EDT was like.

    A lot of the old aftershaves from the Eighties and Nineties were more vibrant and longlasting than a lot of todays EDT's. I used to wear Dunhill Edition aftershave in the Eighties and it was as strong and more vibrant than the recent reformulated EDT which I have. Same goes for old spice, Brut aftershave. etc

    It seems due to regulations fragrances are not as strong, vibrant and long lasting than they used to be unless you go the expensive niche route.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Why do many aftershaves seem more refined than the EDTs?

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    I don't use aftershave, so I cannot say, but I'm just tossing off another conjecture: with reformulations, many of the original basenotes are substituted with cheaper or more synthetic ones, which results in less refined, sharper or duller stuff. The aftershaves usually don't have basenotes, so the problem is less evident there.

    cacio
    Maybe you have cracked it cacio.
    No basenotes?
    Mind you I find it hard to beieve that all these quality scents seem more refined to me without their basenotes...

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hunter View Post
    I got a vintage Bel Ami aftershave splash today and it is stronger and projects more with great sillage than a lot of todays EDT's. I get four hours of strong projection then another three where it has quitened down but you can still smell it before it becomes a skin scent. Also if I leave a room and come back I can smell the spicy leathery goodness in the air strongly. Goodness knows what the Vintage EDT was like.

    A lot of the old aftershaves from the Eighties and Nineties were more vibrant and longlasting than a lot of todays EDT's. I used to wear Dunhill Edition aftershave in the Eighties and it was as strong and more vibrant than the recent reformulated EDT which I have. Same goes for old spice, Brut aftershave. etc

    It seems due to regulations fragrances are not as strong, vibrant and long lasting than they used to be unless you go the expensive niche route.
    I agree with all that.
    The thing is though that all the frags that I'm talking about are basically of the same vintage as their EDT versions that I have.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Why do many aftershaves seem more refined than the EDTs?

    Aftershave balms often have some notes drowned out compared to the EDT, but I can't say I've noticed the aftershave splashes in my collection (of about 30) being significantly different, other than being weaker or a lot weaker.
    Regards,
    Renato

  9. #9

    Default Re: Why do many aftershaves seem more refined than the EDTs?

    Quote Originally Posted by Renato View Post
    Aftershave balms often have some notes drowned out compared to the EDT, but I can't say I've noticed the aftershave splashes in my collection (of about 30) being significantly different, other than being weaker or a lot weaker.
    Regards,
    Renato
    Thanks Renato. Thirty is a significant number.
    *scratches head*

  10. #10

    Default Re: Why do many aftershaves seem more refined than the EDTs?

    Quote Originally Posted by martinijo View Post
    Thanks Renato. Thirty is a significant number.
    *scratches head*
    Annoyingly though - I don't have the three that you mention.
    Your three may well differ from the EDT.
    Cheers,
    Renato

  11. #11

    Default Re: Why do many aftershaves seem more refined than the EDTs?

    I saw an interview with Mona di Orio awhile back on Youtube (It's long but worth watching) She was saying she always dilutes her ingredients down when she is first sniffing them...sometimes 1:100 to catch the nuances of them. I was JUST posting in another thread about Slumberhouse, how the trouble I have with that house is the overly-intense use of every note. Some diluting there would work in its favor.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Why do many aftershaves seem more refined than the EDTs?

    Some aftershaves are simply superb and very different compared to the EdT. SMN's Melograno aftershave is one of the most luxurious scents I know of - also very long lasting and affordable. Highly recommended stuff. Nothing beats the morning ritual of shaving with SMN shaving soap and finishing off with this aftershave. It also makes your skin look radiant and refreshened.

    This might seem like a hyperbole, but I really really love this to death.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Why do many aftershaves seem more refined than the EDTs?

    Quote Originally Posted by Diogenes65 View Post
    I saw an interview with Mona di Orio awhile back on Youtube (It's long but worth watching) She was saying she always dilutes her ingredients down when she is first sniffing them...sometimes 1:100 to catch the nuances of them. I was JUST posting in another thread about Slumberhouse, how the trouble I have with that house is the overly-intense use of every note. Some diluting there would work in its favor.
    I wondered about that too.
    I assume she diluted them with alcohol?
    Perhaps it's time to try this with some of my EDTS..

  14. #14

    Default Re: Why do many aftershaves seem more refined than the EDTs?

    Quote Originally Posted by martinijo View Post
    I wondered about that too.
    I assume she diluted them with alcohol?
    Perhaps it's time to try this with some of my EDTS..
    Yes, she dilutes them with the alcohol she uses in her finished product. I have a very small vial of oud oil, very pure, and I use it by putting one small dot on my palm, and diluting it with unscented lotion. It's rich smell is much nicer that way than full strength where it tends to overpower. Sometimes less is more.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Why do many aftershaves seem more refined than the EDTs?

    In my strictly personal and subjective opinion, one of the few situations when lower, decreased longevity, projection etc. may be an advantage, possibly highlighting the smoothness of certain notes

  16. #16

    Default Re: Why do many aftershaves seem more refined than the EDTs?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ken_Russell View Post
    In my strictly personal and subjective opinion, one of the few situations when lower, decreased longevity, projection etc. may be an advantage, possibly highlighting the smoothness of certain notes
    Sorry ken, what situation are we talking about?

  17. #17

    Default Re: Why do many aftershaves seem more refined than the EDTs?

    Guerlain's Vetiver is much more bracing in AS form and pairs really well with (vintage) EdC or EdT.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Why do many aftershaves seem more refined than the EDTs?

    OLD (vintage) a.s. are often better than many MODERN edt. Other times, other perfumes, other men.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Why do many aftershaves seem more refined than the EDTs?

    Quote Originally Posted by martinijo View Post
    Now you've got me wondering. Ialso own vintage Givenchy Gentleman as an aftershave, and it's superb. Maybe I'll not bother trying to find the corresponding EDT.
    No idea why it should be this way though?
    I've got both EDT and AS in vintage Givenchy Gentleman (both from the late 80s, when I bought them) and yes, the balance is completely different. I prefer the AS and don't find any reason to use the EDT as the AS lasts all day anyway. I just wish that the AS was in the spray bottle that the EDT is in.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Why do many aftershaves seem more refined than the EDTs?

    L'occitane Pour Homme after shave balm imo much better than the EDT.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Why do many aftershaves seem more refined than the EDTs?

    Quote Originally Posted by sfmedusa View Post
    I've got both EDT and AS in vintage Givenchy Gentleman (both from the late 80s, when I bought them) and yes, the balance is completely different. I prefer the AS and don't find any reason to use the EDT as the AS lasts all day anyway. I just wish that the AS was in the spray bottle that the EDT is in.
    You may have just saved me some money :-)

  22. #22

    Default Re: Why do many aftershaves seem more refined than the EDTs?

    [QUOTE=martinijo;2874792]It's happened 3 or 4 times now.
    I have bought an EDT after owning the AS for a while and when I finally try it I'm a little disappointed
    Today wore Live Jazz and yes, it's stronger and longer lasting than the aftershave but I was immediately slightly swamped by cedar which doesn't happen with the AS.



    Well I am slightly embarrassed to mention that the reason for this is because the bottle I bought on ebay as Live Jazz is actually a bottle of Jazz !

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