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  1. #1
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    Default Very confusing to me - formulas

    Hi,
    It seems that every time that I feel I understand fragrance formulas, something changes that thought.

    For instance...

    "Although Iso E Super is extremely popular, the International Fragrance Association has examined its properties for potential allergenic and skin sensitizing negative effects and decided to ration its use. Taking up to 10% of the fragrance formula was recommended for use in a variety of products according to IFF in 2002, but recent developments effectuated in 2010-2011 have lowered that level to 21.4% in the final compound to be further diluted in alcoholic products."

    What does this all mean please?

    So originally the IFRA says that we can use up to 10% of the fragrance formula, meaning 10% of the non alcohol ingredients?

    Then it "lowered" this to 21.4% of final compound?

    If I wanted to have a scent with just ISO E Super and alcohol, what percentage of ISO can I use?

    Also, PA suggests that I can use up to 10% of total concentrate.

    Juice, final compound, fragrance formula, total concentrate...all the same???

    In my business we learn the standard "lingo" but there seems to be a lot of leeway here in terms of how we can describe the non alcohol ingredients?


    TIA

  2. #2

    Default Re: Very confusing to me - formulas

    Concentrate, fragrance formula, total concentrate are all the same; they are the undiluted mixture of Aroma Chemicals and Naturals that go into a Perfume. Juice and final compound are the diluted fragrance for use on skin. Popularity does not matter in the least to IFRA. They are only concerned with safety. Through their research they have established that Iso E Super has the potential to act as a sensitiser and have decided that if it is used below a certain concentration this potential is removed (or profoundly lessened). IFRA regulations do not just cover alcoholic fragrances, but any product that has a fragrance in in that may be applied to skin. Indeed the regulations differ between a fragrance (such as EdP) designed for a woman's skin and an aftershave designed to go on a man's skin; the argument being that the aftershave could be put onto recently shaved, and so abraded skin which would be more sensitive.

    In 2002 IFRA said that 10.0% of a fragrance concentrate could be Iso E Super. LAter on IFRA regulations changed to cover the concentration of a fragrance in the final product. So the 2010 regulation applies to that. For example the use of Iso E Super in a female fragrance is restricted to about 1.3% in the final product , and in the case of a female fragrance the concentrated fragrance would be diluted to about 15.0% in alcohol. Other products, such as Hand Cream would use less fragrance (generally about 1.0% perfume) and so more Iso E Super could be used in the concentrated fragrance.

    It is complicated. I sometimes wonder if this is not done deliberately.

    Hope this makes sense.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Very confusing to me - formulas

    David, thanks.

    You said: "Juice and final compound are the diluted fragrance for use on skin".

    But going back to my paragraph, "21.4% in the final compound to be further diluted in alcoholic products", I'm still confused.

    "final compound to be further diluted in alcoholic products" ? is this a hint that "final compound" may be the same as concentrate, fragrance formula, total concentrate?

    So back to my question... of how much ISO E Super I can use when using just ISO E Super and alcohol ?

    If PA recommends that I use ISO as 10% of total fragrance...and total fragrance is supposed to be about 20% of bottle?

    So am I right in thinking that if I was going to make a bottle of just ISO E and alcohol that I would use 2% ISO to 98% alcohol?
    TIA
    Last edited by numberz; 16th March 2013 at 05:11 PM.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Very confusing to me - formulas

    'So am I right in thinking that if I was going to make a bottle of just ISO E and alcohol that I would use 2% ISO to 98% alcohol?'

    Nah. Give it loads. About 10% should do it.

    'Before publication of the 43rd amendment issued by IFRA it had been rumoured that Iso E Super should be a restricted raw material. This doesn't mean that it is not to be used any more as novices often assume erronesouly. It simply means that it should be incorporated in a formula below a certain level for it to be commerialised (and of course one could do whatever they pleased if they made a do-it-yourself formula at their own labs/homes!). On the other hand another aroma material, Boisvelone (C16H26O) closely related to Iso E Super (but reportedly a little more elegant; I haven't tried it myself while one source[3] reports it as the exact same thing) has disappeared from commercial use. According to one perfumer currently teaching [4] however, a feminine "alcoholic" product (that means an eau de toilette, eau de parfum or extrait de parfum ~generally any product with an alcohol base) there is a limit of approximately 20% of Iso E Super in the final product. Although it might seem like a lot, if you are composing an Eau de Parfum, which means a 15-20% dilution, you're well within limits still even if the entire fragrance consists of Iso E Super. Luckily for all of us, the latest amendement of IFRA can be downloaded here and it seems to make us sigh a sigh of relief for now: Iso E Super is not yet restricted. ** [Please see addition on the bottom for current info on IFRA approved ratio]



    Linky:

    http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.co.uk/...ults-geza.html

    -

    - - - Updated - - -

    Wait! I didn't read this bit: ut recent developments effectuated in 2010-2011 have lowered that level to 21.4% in the final compound to be further diluted in alcoholic products."

    That's still quite a lot. 4-5% ish. I suppose it also depends on how much you spray - assuming you're planning on testing it on yourself.

    -
    Last edited by Skelly; 16th March 2013 at 05:44 PM.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Very confusing to me - formulas

    See here: http://www.ifraorg.org/view_document.aspx?docId=22118 straight from the horse's mouth.

    Iso E Super can be used up to 21.4% in the final product (Category 4 = 'fine fragrances').

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Very confusing to me - formulas

    Thanks for the replies. I see all sorts of answers.
    I am seeing what looks like concrete info from Renegade and I'll go with that. It does show that us DIYers need to have good info.

    I saw someone on another site recommending everyone use 20% of ISO and they all were.

    Regards...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by numberz; 16th March 2013 at 08:49 PM.

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