Note: Just a disclaimer, I have no association with this fragrance house or creator, I just have a love of niche houses in the United States.
Surprise! Another niche house based in the wonderland of Portland, Oregon. It is quite amazing to see the sheer amount of talented individuals in this region. A small collection at the moment, but all of the creations look quite intriguing and definitely worth a sampling at least.
Phoenecia Perfumes advertises itself as "No Boundaries - No Limitations"
Little background on the creator, David Falsberg, is blind due to losing his sight to a disease. This in turn has led to an increased sense of smell and, undoubtedly, a unique perspective on fragrances.
1. Ultraflora - an EDP that captures the creators love of florals, it is pretty much a flower bomb just looking at the notes. Yet including some notes like moss, sandalwood, and vanilla bourbon may lend it a more unisex appeal. The creator notes there is a quite fruity vibe with this creation.
Top: lavender, bergamot, pink pepper
Heart: white rose otto, jasmine sambac, dravetz, civet
Base: vanilla bourbon, benzoin, sandalwood, oak moss
2. Realoud - an EDP that the creator notes as being a real oud and not another "oud in name only" fragrance that contains a very small amount of oud. Calls it a traditional "mukhallat".
Traditional clay pot hindi oud, vintage mysore santal, bulgarian red rose, saffron, immortelle, Syed’s amber
3. Skin Graft - probably the most unique fragrance of the line as it is meant to evoke memories of the sterile smell of hospitals and bandages, harkening back to the creator's traumatic experiences spending time in the hospital as he had his skin grafted while in an induced coma. Wow is all I can really say about that.
Top: honey, iso-E super
Heart: jasmne sambac
Base: opoponax, dry woodsy notes
Looks like these fragrances are available at Blackbird Apothecary at the moment and come in 5 mL small dabber bottles. With a purchase, part of the proceeds goes to support research of Stevens-Johnson Syndrome (which is the disease that caused David Falsberg's blindness) visit www.sjsupport.org
Last edited by RunSun; 21st March 2013 at 12:24 AM.
Summer 2013 Top 10 :
1. Creed Aventus
2. Dior Homme Sport (2012)
3. L'Eau Bleue D'Issey
4. Bleu de Chanel
5. Acqua dio Gio Essenza
6. Strange Invisible Perfumes - Peloponnesian
7. Tom Ford Neroli Portofino
8. Diesel Green Masculine
9. Terre d'Hermes
10. Guerlain Homme
A few words on Realoud, seeing as it's not on the database yet. It's pretty fantastic. Aside from Deadidol have many had the pleasure?
Supremely cheesy barnyard oud opening (reminiscent of Ensar’s Assam Organic), with a touch of sweetness coming from the jammy Taif rose that is very prominent during early heart heart, from here the sweet jammy elements swiftly recede and the oud is reincarnated in all its woody glory. As this mukhallat travels through its progression for +8 hours a woody vetiver is introduced and slowly crossfades with the oud to close.
From what I’ve experienced of Western produced oud perfumes it just does not get better than Realoud. The overall balance, transitions and journey are an utter pleasure from start to finish. Deadidol’s review is spot on, if you find TF Oud Wood etc challenging, this will be a surprise. But should you be willing to open your mind or already appreciate the more pungent side of things, Realoud will be instant gratification. Probably my equal best of 2013. 9.5/10
From batch: 8/13
Well, it's cheaper than therapy... edit: No it's not...
Great review Mick!
I have Realoud and it is terrific. It does go to vetiver seemingly quicker on my skin than what you describe though. I adore the Hindi oud opening and wish that there were more of it. The rose is true and beautiful and seems like Ta'if as I know it but it is Bulgarian according to the website.
The only Western oud fragrance that can equal Realoud IMO is Ex Idole 33. That one has Chinese oud and Chinese rose as well as other, different elements so it's not a direct scent profile comparison but the quality of the ingredients and the smoothness of the blend of the Ex Idole are terrific too.
This is Hindi oud oil as I know it after years of experience with oud oil. This mukhallat is not the usual synthetic, simple jumble the we usually encounter and as Mick mentions, it will challenge you if you are not used to the materials. I would agree that David Falsberg is a very talented man! I do think that thankfully, he has regained his sight after a horrible battle with Stevens Johnson Syndrome.
Another exciting this about Realoud is that each batch will be a bit different. This is the case with natural materials and something very welcome to me. There is also Realoud Feral which is probably a bigger kick in the nostrils! Anything with the name "Feral" has got to be good right>!>!>!
I'd love to experience these fragrances sprayed on as opposed to dabbed on. The bigger bottle has got a sprayer. This must make the oud and rose really pop when first applied.