Charriol Royal Leather
Thread: Animalic Madness
On a quick trip to London I managed to hit Les Senteurs, Harvey Nicks, Fortnums and Libertys in one day (ah - and L'Artisan Parfumeur as well). What I had planned on being a gentle, civilised sniffing expedition turned into full-blown Musk Madness...
For a while I only had Knize Ten on one wrist and Musc Ravageur on the other. So far, so good. Lots of experiments with leather and smoke, including Bandit, Mona de Orio Cuir, En Avion, Cuir Ottoman... I sniffed a bottle of Absolue Pour le Soir - intriguing! The addition of Daim Blond did nothing for the mix - hasty scrubbing of weird apricot fragrance. On to Fortnums, where I found more Absolue PLS and Black Afgano. Never one to shy away from a challenge, on they both went. By that time I was feeling like a cage full of baboons after an industrial Viagra accident, and I was just getting started...
Anyway, after all that, I feel a bit faint. I never found MKK, my holy grail. But I've discovered that I love animalics - love as in something you might not particularly like, but that you can't do without. My findings:
Knize Ten: incredibly evocative of people and places from a past not necessarily my own. Lovely.
Musc Ravageur: a lioness on heat, wearing Jicky and eating macarons. Yes.
Absolue Pour le Soir: Eye-crossingly lustful. I don't think I can live without this one. Whether I can live with it remains to be seen.
Dzing!, Le Labo Labdanum, Cuir Mauresque... further investigation required. Black Afgano is so monstrously big that I'm not sure what it actually smells like!
What animalic musk-monsters have I missed? I need more!!
Last edited by OdilonRedon; 23rd March 2013 at 02:44 PM.
As I recall, one of the Amouage Jubilations turned out to be HIGHLY animalic on me. Woke up the next morning after putting it on before going to bed and could have sworn there was a big cat under the covers with me. Nope...just me and my Amouage. Perhaps others can confirm which Amouage it actually is that has a pretty big animalic punch?
Haven't you tried Muscs Koublaï Khän? It smells like someone's "spheres". It is the real thing. I can tell you.
Up to a certain extent, even Ambre Sultan and Mouchoir de Monsieur
Mouchoir de Monsieur is one of my favourites, as is Ambre Sultan. I'm sending off for a large sample of MKK.
Excellent trip! I like animalic musks too. Substitute for viagra, who knows...
MKK is obviously something you need to try when you see it. Much more animalic than Musc Ravageur, which after the nice start, becomes more spicy than musky.
In leather territory, the most animalic by far is the wonderful, almost disturbing Etat libre d'Orange Rien (go light on this, it's deceiving, it has no top, but it comes out in full force with body heat). Dzing! is another one you need to try if you haven't.
And then, vintage provides plenty of examples. Schiaparelli Shocking has a dirty animalic honey base. Vintage My Sin and Joy are great for the civet base.
Diors Leather Oud is worthy of a sniff.
on the cheaper side derrick black and ted lapidus
Some versions of Vintage Bal de Versailles can be pretty animalic as well. And it's just scrumptious!
The Amouage I'm remembering is either Jubilation XXV or Opus IV, cause those are the only ones I have decants of other than Lyric for Women. Pretty sure it was XXV and as I recall I wore it over a very warm night.
Last edited by bogsc; 23rd March 2013 at 03:20 PM.
Interesting, Jub XXV doesn't smell particularly animalic to me, it's more like a clean, complex frankincense. But as usual, people have different reactions to certain musks, so perhaps you are very sensitive to the musk in Jub xxv. Usually, the Amouage that's considered dirty is Gold man.
Have to agree with Tony T, that Ted Lapidus is a beast.
Roja Dove Fetish
Ungaro II ( discontinued ).
Edit: Smell Bent's Commando is like a less floral MKK. Cheap, too.
I suggest you to try Mazzolari Lui.
Kouros is a classic animalic
vintage Lauder for Men is very challenging to wear
the opening blast of civet in Shalimar EDC is worth sniffing
in the bargain bin, try Jovan Musk for Men...pure skank
Any other Kurkdjian scents I should explore?
Rien by Etat Libre d'Orange to me is so animalic it's well nigh unwearable. It makes me really smell like a rock hyrax's hole. Queer that I've actually been complimented on it. Some ladies clearly don't mind rock rabbits...
Another vintage one to check out (which I'm lucky enough to be wearing now) is Bogart Furyo.
ointments and perfume delight the heart....
And this hasn't been mentioned yet, but Parfum d'Empire Musc Tonkin must be tried if you love animalic scents. This is a reference-level animalic fragrance, if you ask me - it's dirtylicious.
Thanks for the suggestions, everyone.
I think the thing that's most fascinating about this particular group of scents is the implicit desire to smell dirty. Not dirty in a sexy way, particularly, but just unwashed. Natural. Human. Presumably earlier animalic scents like Mouchoir de Monsieur were designed at a time when personal hygiene was far less well practiced - for practical and technological reasons as much as preference - and so people wore pleasant animal fragrances to cover up unpleasant animal fragrances, in the same way that gloves were perfumed with 'leather' scents to cover up the foul, animalic (piss and shit) stench of freshly tanned leather. Now, of course, we shower every day and when we put on one of these musky marvels we're dirtying up our sterile selves on purpose (while still remaining clean). We want to smell like a dirty, musky cat. We want to smell as if we'd just left our lover after a day and a night of mad lust. We want to smell of sweat. I suppose we want to smell human. It's a marvellous paradox.
"You can ignore reality, but you can't ignore the consequences of ignoring reality." - Ayn Rand
"I hold it that a little rebellion now and then is a good thing, and as necessary in the political world as storms in the physical...It is a medicine necessary for the sound health of government." - Thomas Jefferson
Current Favs - Tea for Two, Passage d'Enfer, J'ai Fait un Reve, Eau d'Hermes, Cologne Pour le Soir, APOM, Mon Nom Est Rouge, Jubilation XXV, Interlude Man, Shiseido Zen Original, DH, LDDM, Maharadjah, Royal Oud, Spice and Wood, MI, Coeur de Vetiver Sacre.
No one's mentioned Oud Cuir d'Arabie? That is the raunch king.
This is a wonderful thread - nearly all my favorite frags have been mentioned!
Another big recommendation for Dior Leather Oud. If you're already good with the naughtiness created by civet and honey, you're set to overcome the one big challenge in this otherwise amazingly rich and warm composition.
Don't forget Serge Lutens Cuir Arabie, YSL Kouros, Dior Jules, and though not exactly musky I'd add Cartier Declaration, which for me has a "dirtying up" effect along the lines of what you're describing.
Oh, and I remember Kinski being pretty naughty.
+1 for Cologne pour le Soir is possibly my limit on animalic madness, though I also think Leather Oud is great.
Just in terms of animalic - not necessarily musk related - Chanel's Antaeus gets a vote from me.
“interpretation is the revenge of the intellect upon art.” - Susan Sontag
Jubilation has NO civet, or any animalic notes ,its a fruity incense fragrance centered on Omani Frankincense, its clean and smokey as Cacio mentioned.For civet, Dior Leather Oud, Muscs Koblai Khan, Ungaro Homme II and Furyo.
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Last edited by vinramani09; 24th March 2013 at 07:22 PM.
If I can suggest one forgotten gem, Sirs...
I'd propose Daniel Hechter's "Caractère" (vintage) : pure castoreum+ real oakmoss = quite an animalic experience.
I second many of the above suggestions (e.g. Rien, Joy Parfum, Shocking, Dzing!, Leather Oud, Aoud Cuir D'Arabie and others)...
Vis Et Honor
You might also want to consider pure tinctures such as civet, castoreum, ambergris and hyraceum. You can get a freaking cool coffret here (not affiliated)...
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