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  1. #1
    Basenotes Member ION's Avatar
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    Default Fahrenheit formula and Paradisone availability?

    Hello! Anyone has any idea of what's in "Fahrenheit", not the complete formula of course, I wouldn't expect that.
    It is one of the perfumes I'd wish I had a better knowledge of, for studying purposes.
    Also, how could I get hold of molecules like Paradisone, Mayol, Hevernol? If you have a clue, let me know.
    Yours, ION
    "I have the sun in my pocket"
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  2. #2

    Default Re: Fahrenheit formula and Paradisone availability?

    I know for sure I contains Iso E Super, Alpha Isomethyl Ionone and Coumarin. I do not know where one can get those chemicals, sorry

  3. #3
    Paul Kiler
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    Default Re: Fahrenheit formula and Paradisone availability?

    25% Iso E Super

    11% Musk Tonalide

    Methyl octine carbonate

    Can't remember from where this quote came, but I copied it from my Fahrenheit research and gathered intelligence...:

    "Fahrenheit’s listed ingredients are bergamot, honeysuckle, hawthorn, sandalwood, nutmeg, violet, cedar, patchouli and tonka bean. Florasynth perfumer Jean Louis Sieuzac developed Fahrenheit, and at launch, Maurice Roger, the president of Parfums Christian Dior, was quoted in Women’s Wear Daily (9/9/1988): “For several years the men’s fragrance market has been flooded with cypress or fern extracts enhanced by cocktails of aromatic notes — compounds of lavender, rosemary, sage, etc.” Roger said Fahrenheit was “built on a rather floral concept, but not a traditional women’s floral like jasmine. Honeysuckle is a rather wild, natural floral. My observation of the market was that there are a lot of very similar scents based on Mediterranean cocktails. If you test all the recent introductions, you will find very similar propositions.”
    What a notion: a perfume house wanting to create something original, something different from what was readily available! Monsieur Roger — je t’aime.
    Fahrenheit opens with vibrant honeysuckle, bubbly bergamot and ‘subdued’ hawthorn. In anticipation of writing this review, I visited the arboretum to sniff the hawthorn trees that blossomed in late April. Hawthorn flowers smell better “on the air” than when you put your nose right on the blooms. Hawthorn is powdery, but strong; its scent reminded me of crushed seashells. If you live on the East Coast of the U.S., you’ve probably seen paths and driveways paved with shells. The scent of hawthorn blossoms reminded me of the smell of a seashell path warmed by sun (with a faint floral aroma wafting over it). I assume the hawthorn in Fahrenheit was softened considerably to better mix with the delightful honeysuckle and bergamot notes.
    Fahrenheit’s scintillating, but fleeting, floral opening leads to an unusual, longer-lasting nutmeg-violet accord. This strange accord is hard to describe; to me it smells like an old wooden telephone pole coated with dried tar! In Fahrenheit’s final stage of development, ‘dusty’ cedar and sandalwood and muted patchouli produce dry and warm aromas that remind me of a place where earth, rocks and chapparal bake under a summer sun. Each stage of Fahrenheit is a pleasure to smell. "

    Fahrenheit Bottle and Gun small.jpg

    "Methyl octine carbonate, for example, evokes the smell of
    violets and motorcycles; Dior's Farenheit uses a lot of it
    Taking the idea of Grey Flannel , and violet leaf green and musky, masculine fragrance Fahrenheit upsets through the use of a drug overdose in synthetic material used to recreate the smell of violet, methyl octylcarbonate. In combination with a green floral accord of jasmine and honeysuckle, subtly balanced by a woody, patchouli, powder, leather and musk, the result simply leads to a perfect, unique and sublime.
    Long before Dior Homme and powdery iris, Fahrenheit has been one of the first male flower, whose success owes to both olfactory creativity, and a true artistic universe, powerful, evocative and coherent."


    And My Photographic Portfolio image of Fahrenheit, a smoking Walther PPK just fired breaking the 1/2 inch plate glass

    - - - Updated - - -

    Just now, reviewing the Methyl Octine Carbonate, I see that my notes regarding the IFRA restriction states that it is massively restricted to 0.002%. Which means practically nothing. So My vintage bottle of Fahrenheit is completely non IFRA Compliant.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Oh, and Although It sure looked like Paradisone was going to be released, it is still a captive, and not available to us plebes.
    Last edited by pkiler; 11th May 2013 at 05:03 AM.
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
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    Gold Medal for "Best Aroma"; Los Angeles Artisan Fragrance Salon

  4. #4
    gido's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fahrenheit formula and Paradisone availability?

    Yes Paul. You're lucky! These vintage Fahrenheit bottles, I never see them around anymore. I have only a few ml of the good old stuff left. There were some threads elsewhere on this board about the subject. Turin also wrote about it, I quote,

    It used to be a great citrus leather in the manner of Bel-Ami, overlaid with the gassiest, hissiest, most diffusive note of violet leaf in all of perfumery. Acetylenic esters have now been severely restricted (triple bonds smell wonderful but are chemically reactive), and what's left is kind of Bel-Ami.

    See also http://www.basenotes.net/threads/231...=1#post1547386 for determination.

    Btw. I've no idea what Acetylenic means, but I assume Methyl Octine Carbonate falls within this subgroup of esters, and we're talking about the same thing. Right?

  5. #5

    Default Re: Fahrenheit formula and Paradisone availability?

    Outstanding post from Mr Kiler. Thank you, sir.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Fahrenheit formula and Paradisone availability?

    Thank you, Paul, amazing pic. as usual.

  7. #7
    Paul Kiler
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    Default Re: Fahrenheit formula and Paradisone availability?

    LPP, Glad you liked the Picture...
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    Gold Medal for "Best Aroma"; Los Angeles Artisan Fragrance Salon

  8. #8

    Default Re: Fahrenheit formula and Paradisone availability?

    When Farenheit was launched it contained much more than the permitted (by IFRA) level of Methyl Octine Carbonate; I never knew how IFF got away with it, but they did for quite a long time. MOC is now even more restricted, so Farenheit has changed. There are chemicals which smell similar to MOC which are not restricted, but they don't perform in the same way.

  9. #9
    Paul Kiler
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    Default Re: Fahrenheit formula and Paradisone availability?

    I am sorry, when I made my original entry to this thread, I simply pasted much of the text, without saying it wasn't mine. I went back in and added and re-edited that in, but I wanted to apologize for not doing that the first time, I just don't want to take credit for plagiarism...
    SAWWY...
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    Gold Medal for "Best Aroma"; Los Angeles Artisan Fragrance Salon

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Fahrenheit formula and Paradisone availability?

    I can get a close approximation of Fahrenheit using Isoraldeine 70 for the violet tones, hawthorn (an accord), suederal, Safraleine, coumarin, ISO e super, romandolide, galaxolide, benzoin, a tiny bit of violet leaf, jasmine sambac, sandalwood and patchouli (I've used a drop of Yarrow EO before too, but....not sure). The "gasoline accord" everyone refers to in this awesome fragrance seems to be created by the blend of Isoraldeine and the leather notes from suederol and Safraleine (at least they are in my attempt) and, I suspect, by the very small amount of patchouli. I have never gotten a precise blend, but damn close. Fahrenheit is a masterpiece. I have a bottle I bought in 1989, my first fragrance bought at 18. It's to good to use more than once every few years. I agree this frag is truly worthy of study. I've tried to do it 100 times and can never quite settle on precisely where the magic comes from.
    Last edited by mandaryn; 24th August 2014 at 04:24 AM.

  11. #11
    Super Member Jeremiah Taylor's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fahrenheit formula and Paradisone availability?

    I have some Mayol. PM me if you want to try it out.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Fahrenheit formula and Paradisone availability?

    I was searching for aromachemicals here in Brazil and by chance found them selling this one - the methyl octine carbonate. It's not cheap - 20ml is 110 dollars - should i purchase it? Is there anything else that gives vintage Fahrenheit it's beautiful aroma (and that it's now restricted)?

  13. #13
    Dependent superfluousPastry's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fahrenheit formula and Paradisone availability?

    There is a huge chamomile note in Fahrenheit. I'm surprised none of perfumers in here mentioned it.

  14. #14
    Dependent superfluousPastry's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fahrenheit formula and Paradisone availability?

    I knew it wasn't just me.

    One of the perfumes where chamomile note dominates the composition is certainly Dior’s iconic Fahrenheit for men. Launched in late eighties, this deep and masculine fragrance still captivates our attention, spreading the heady soul of chamomile right from the top notes. Chamomile note lends to this fragrance its distinctive petroleum hint, which can be felt in the very opening. In this calming and manly interpretation, chamomile is combined with soothing scent of lavender, a hint of lemon, and some deep and sensual nuances of wood and musk.
    from this link: http://www.fragrantica.com/notes/Chamomile-289.html

  15. #15
    Paul Kiler
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    Default Re: Fahrenheit formula and Paradisone availability?

    I'm not actually sold that the Chamomile is the note that this author thinks it is.
    I would place my money more on Methyl Octine Carbonate and Methyl Heptine Carbonate.

    I buy the Methyl Octine Carbonate replacer, and it is not quite as loud/powerful as MOC, but it is really pretty close, and doesn't get restricted.

    BTWm here's some ideas for what to do with Fahrenheit, from my notes files on the scent:

    These notes were written by Shelley Waddington to send to a Perfumer in India interested in making the scent:
    I have added in some percentages from instances where I have found decent intelligence. Shelley does not however mention the MOC or MHC.
    I have not yet sent out for GC analysis any of my original 1990-ish formula bottle Fahrenheit EdT. Maybe one day when I have the money.

    Top Notes:
    Bergamot
    Mandarin
    Lemon
    Lavender
    Hawthorn

    Heart Notes:
    Nutmeg (tiny amount)
    Ionones (ionone beta, dihydro ionone beta)
    Violet leaf (tiny amount)
    Carnation
    Honeysuckle

    Base Notes:
    Iso e super (comprises 25% of this fragrance!)
    Benzoin
    Patchouli
    Patchouli ethanone
    Cedar
    Sandalwood
    Tonka bean or coumarin
    Leather (Birch Tar or Cade)
    Musk - Tonalide 11%
    Vetiver
    Mastic



    I have been given a formula, but it is not the real formula, plus it was given to me in confidence, so I cannot post it publicly.

    PK
    Paul Kiler
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    Gold Medal for "Best Aroma"; Los Angeles Artisan Fragrance Salon

  16. #16
    Dependent superfluousPastry's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fahrenheit formula and Paradisone availability?

    I'm trusting my own nose. I smelled it in there a long time ago. I did a search after I posted my first message to make sure it wasn't my imagination since I didn't see it listed in this thread.
    Last edited by superfluousPastry; 2nd February 2015 at 09:11 PM.

  17. #17
    Paul Kiler
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    Default Re: Fahrenheit formula and Paradisone availability?

    Quote Originally Posted by rickbr View Post
    I was searching for aromachemicals here in Brazil and by chance found them selling this one - the methyl octine carbonate. It's not cheap - 20ml is 110 dollars - should i purchase it? Is there anything else that gives vintage Fahrenheit it's beautiful aroma (and that it's now restricted)?
    Rick, 20ml for $110 is Stratospherically out of line. Don't get ripped off.

    A whole Kilogram is $300

    PK
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
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    Gold Medal for "Best Aroma"; Los Angeles Artisan Fragrance Salon

  18. #18
    rickbr's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fahrenheit formula and Paradisone availability?

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    Rick, 20ml for $110 is Stratospherically out of line. Don't get ripped off.

    A whole Kilogram is $300

    PK
    But i never saw any suppplier selling it at smaller portions Paul, do you know one?

  19. #19
    rickbr's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fahrenheit formula and Paradisone availability?

    Paul, if you end doing a GCMS of this i would be willing to share the costs with you. I'm curious about Fahrenheit original formula....

  20. #20
    Paul Kiler
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    Default Re: Fahrenheit formula and Paradisone availability?

    I'm getting my MOC from TGSC:
    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/...html#plz102087

    Will let you know if we do a GC on Original Fahrenheit...

    PK
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
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    Gold Medal for "Best Aroma"; Los Angeles Artisan Fragrance Salon

  21. #21
    rickbr's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fahrenheit formula and Paradisone availability?

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    I'm getting my MOC from TGSC:
    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/...html#plz102087

    Will let you know if we do a GC on Original Fahrenheit...

    PK
    They only accept US orders =/

  22. #22
    rickbr's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fahrenheit formula and Paradisone availability?

    I completely forgot about perfumers world, they also have MOC and the price is much lower - 12 dollars 10g.

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