Code of Conduct
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 31 to 46 of 46
  1. #31

    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    I don’t compare it with Invasion Barbare other than that they’re both great compositions.
    I can agree now. After spending time with both and even wearing both at the same time to do direct comparisons, I can further differentiate and identify them as uniquely different. For CP, this has to be my favorite chypre, even trumping the mighty Casamorati Fiero which is nowhere near as polished. This thread has helped me tremendously!
    Is the juice worth the squeeze?

  2. #32
    sables's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Frankfurt Main
    Posts
    686

  3. #33

    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    It doesn’t smell animalic but the animalics castoreum and costus give it a lasting fleshy warmth and a smooth, velvety, almost oozing from the pores feel. Never heavy or flat, it has excellent olfactory viscosity and density, soft hands (great touch), the genius of compositional balance to offset any heaviness.
    It's this 'third leg of the stool' that makes the difference, I think - as well as Parure I actually flashed on Habanita the first time I wore it, where there's that blend of boudoir oriental with animalic / leather / skank whatever you might want to call it. I have 'sampled' CP four evenings in a row now and it's speaking in a different accent each time, which is a hell a lot of fun. I'm holding out for a second hit next week which I'll probably be a litttle less restrained with and then, I imagine, it will be time to order a bottle.

  4. #34
    Super Member Dernier_Cri's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    By the Big Lake
    Posts
    480

    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Quote Originally Posted by sables View Post
    Monsieur Duchaufour used "oakmoss low atranol" for his "Chypre Palatin"
    I told him to use the 91 AKI but he wouldn't listen to me.

  5. #35
    Dependent rubegon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    War of the Roses
    Posts
    2,188

    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    I wonder whether the new low atranol extracts smell less mossy, or maybe they can also only be used in very low amounts. None of the new chypres that use it smell particular mossy to me.
    - - - - - - - - - - - - -

  6. #36
    Basenotes Plus

    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    13,380

    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    @sables - thank you for the info.

  7. #37

    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    Beautiful fragrance. Amazing how he cut the sweets (benzoin especially) with greens, animalics, a little birch tar, whatever. Feels like an intelligent chypre at the core, spread out through the, comfort of an extremely well made oriental. It doesn’t smell animalic but the animalics castoreum and costus give it a lasting fleshy warmth and a smooth, velvety, almost oozing from the pores feel. Never heavy or flat, it has excellent olfactory viscosity and density, soft hands (great touch), the genius of compositional balance to offset any heaviness. Love the trajectory of the thing. In that way it’s similar to great fragrances like Patou pour Homme, etc.

    I don’t compare it with Invasion Barbare other than that they’re both great compositions.
    I share with Pluran the "amazing how he cuts it" opinion.

    But I'd say :Amazing how he cut the musk with resins and animalic.
    for swap/sale:



  8. #38
    treeman5823
    Guest

    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Interesting comments. I don't see any resemblance between 31 Rue Cambon and CP; 31 certainly has no oakmoss, but recreates the bitter effect with iris and pepper. Anyway, I really like CP, but find it just a tad heavy: it smells like it contains half the world's production of birch tar and smoky amber. I actually like RC better--it is, quite simply, one of the most beautiful perfumes I have ever smelled.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Here's an email Parfums MDCI sent me. Though you guys might be interested.

    ******************

    Dear Mr. Aragon,

    "Chypre Palatin", a floral green chypre, is indeed compliant with IFRA 's latest amendment ( like all our fragrances, by the way).

    Today more than ever, and most likely less than tomorrow, the perfumer's task is very much complicated by the new guidelines- that's what they are- for the moment, guidelines, not rules or directives- and he has to play with what is available in terms of ingredients and orchestrate the whole to reach the desired effect, while stricktly remaining within the limits.

    In the present case, Bertrand Duchaufour's talent becomes obvious: the oakmoss is present but in "legal" quantities, that mean almost as a trace, while the other ingredients of the base notes in particular - benjamin, styrax, leather, castoreum, tolu, vanilla, costus, everlasting flower absolute, all blend perfectly and powerfully enough to make for the low amount of oakmoss.

    The formula is in general rich and quite complex:
    head-notes :hyancinth, clementine, aldehydes, cistus oil, galbanum , thyme oil, lavender,
    heart-notes : rose, jasmine, iris concrete, plum, gardenia

    I hope that this answers your question, if not please feel welcome to call again,

    Yours very truly,

    Claude Marchal

  9. #39
    Dependent rubegon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    War of the Roses
    Posts
    2,188

    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Quote Originally Posted by treeman5823 View Post
    Interesting comments. I don't see any resemblance between 31 Rue Cambon and CP; 31 certainly has no oakmoss, but recreates the bitter effect with iris and pepper. Anyway, I really like CP, but find it just a tad heavy: it smells like it contains half the world's production of birch tar and smoky amber. I actually like RC better--it is, quite simply, one of the most beautiful perfumes I have ever smelled.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Here's an email Parfums MDCI sent me. Though you guys might be interested.

    ******************

    Dear Mr. Aragon,

    "Chypre Palatin", a floral green chypre, is indeed compliant with IFRA 's latest amendment ( like all our fragrances, by the way).

    Today more than ever, and most likely less than tomorrow, the perfumer's task is very much complicated by the new guidelines- that's what they are- for the moment, guidelines, not rules or directives- and he has to play with what is available in terms of ingredients and orchestrate the whole to reach the desired effect, while stricktly remaining within the limits.

    In the present case, Bertrand Duchaufour's talent becomes obvious: the oakmoss is present but in "legal" quantities, that mean almost as a trace, while the other ingredients of the base notes in particular - benjamin, styrax, leather, castoreum, tolu, vanilla, costus, everlasting flower absolute, all blend perfectly and powerfully enough to make for the low amount of oakmoss.

    The formula is in general rich and quite complex:
    head-notes :hyancinth, clementine, aldehydes, cistus oil, galbanum , thyme oil, lavender,
    heart-notes : rose, jasmine, iris concrete, plum, gardenia

    I hope that this answers your question, if not please feel welcome to call again,

    Yours very truly,

    Claude Marchal
    thanks for posting that. Very interesting to see that MDCI give personal attention to email inquiries about their perfumes. Seems almost like a family business.

    by the way, I didn't mean to suggest that RC and CP are similar overall. I see the parallels mostly in the way they construct a chypre effect in the first part of the compositions. I can't say that the base is similar at all, because RC is almost completely lacking a base.
    - - - - - - - - - - - - -

  10. #40
    treeman5823
    Guest

    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Quote Originally Posted by rubegon View Post
    by the way, I didn't mean to suggest that RC and CP are similar overall. I see the parallels mostly in the way they construct a chypre effect in the first part of the compositions. I can't say that the base is similar at all, because RC is almost completely lacking a base.
    Yes, RC's base is pretty much just a light amber. The chypre effect in RC is built on a vertical (harmony) axis versus a horizontal (melody, time-based) axis.

  11. #41
    Dependent
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA
    Posts
    3,705

    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Quote Originally Posted by Dernier_Cri View Post
    Styrax (benzoin) is often used to make ambers. So is vanilla. And I think the labdanum is the business note in most ambers and probably the amber note in CP. Just my opinion. I know so many basenoters love amber, but if a fragrance is marketed as a chypre I'm expecting something more like an chypre. We have to keep in mind of course that Labdanum is traditionally a fundamental component of the Chypre. Again my nose says, "Amber".[/B]
    There is a lot of confusion in terminology for benzoin/styrax. I find usually that in perfume pyramids "benzoin" refers to Styrax tonkinensis (or synthetics approximating), which is vanillic, powdery, opaque and slightly leathery, and "styrax" refers to Liquidamber orientalis, which has a substantially different character, being sweet, clean, transparent, and cinnamic. (I much perfer L. orientalis, so beautiful!) Further confusing matters is that both or either are commonly used to create "amber" accords.

    Quote Originally Posted by rubegon View Post
    It took me a few wears to see it, but IB feels like a fougere, with modern embellishments - like some of the traditional parts of the composition are replaced by weird synthetic analogs that somehow create a comparable effect. Like a Michaelangelo's David wearing composite body armor.
    Genius image there my friend

    CP is like a beautiful modern feminine chypre butched up a bit by dialing back the more bosomy floral notes in the opening. The closest things to it for me are 31 Rue Cambon, Acqua di Parma Profumo and Jubilation 25. Later in the development its a sort of sweet and fruity chypre, but a super clean one - none of the earthy/bitter/tart tone of a classic masculine chypre or even vintage Mitsouko. They call it a masculine, but its about as masculine to me as Keira Knightley wearing coveralls and a fake moustache. Don't get me wrong - I love it.
    Great image!

    Wasn't it Jacques Guerlain who said that you rarely find a good perfume that does not have vanilla?
    Thank goodness that isn't true anymore!

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    Beautiful fragrance. Amazing how he cut the sweets (benzoin especially) with greens, animalics, a little birch tar, whatever. Feels like an intelligent chypre at the core, spread out through the, comfort of an extremely well made oriental. It doesn’t smell animalic but the animalics castoreum and costus give it a lasting fleshy warmth and a smooth, velvety, almost oozing from the pores feel. Never heavy or flat, it has excellent olfactory viscosity and density, soft hands (great touch), the genius of compositional balance to offset any heaviness. Love the trajectory of the thing. In that way it’s similar to great fragrances like Patou pour Homme, etc.

    I don’t compare it with Invasion Barbare other than that they’re both great compositions.
    Thanks for the heads up about the birch tar in CP. Now I'm not so curious anymore. Blech hate the stuff.

    Quote Originally Posted by rubegon View Post
    I wonder whether the new low atranol extracts smell less mossy, or maybe they can also only be used in very low amounts. None of the new chypres that use it smell particular mossy to me.
    I've been mainlining atranol and it's a very mossy high. I find if I have it in my veins, I can deal with the IFRA restrictions better.

    Quote Originally Posted by treeman5823 View Post
    Interesting comments. I don't see any resemblance between 31 Rue Cambon and CP; 31 certainly has no oakmoss, but recreates the bitter effect with iris and pepper. Anyway, I really like CP, but find it just a tad heavy: it smells like it contains half the world's production of birch tar and smoky amber.
    Agh, get it away!

    Here's an email Parfums MDCI sent me. Though you guys might be interested.
    Thanks for that, man. Solid customer service, no surprise considering their products' quality.

  12. #42
    Basenotes Plus

    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    13,380

    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    2013 will affect a lot more more than oakmoss as I understand it (which isn't particularly well).
    Last edited by lpp; 1st April 2013 at 12:03 AM.

  13. #43

    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Thanks for the email - interesting.

  14. #44
    Ursula's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Flushing,NY/USA
    Posts
    743
    Blog Entries
    2

    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Since I don't really like original, heavy oakmoss, the attempts to reformulate what once was, actually suit my nose. "Chypre Palatin" is a very wearable scent. It may not last as long but it is not "stuffy", "old-fashioned" but modern. True vintage oakmoss may seem dated if it were indeed faithfully included. The consumer crowd has changed. There is always the ugly slogan, "old lady scent", "grandma scent" and the like.

    As a side note - Oriza L. Legrand has done an excellent job of bringing back very, very old scents. The original formula?? They say themselves, that they tweaked it a bit. Very successfully so. I ordered the sample set and love it.

    "Chypre Palatin" is also part of a very reasonable sample set.

    But I digress. What I want to say is that "all is not lost, if heavy oakmoss is not used anymore".
    There are no answers, only choices. (Stanislav Lem)

  15. #45
    Dependent james1051's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Philly suburbs
    Posts
    1,135

    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Quote Originally Posted by drseid View Post
    I actually thought is was oak moss light. I would have loved for it to have had a lot more in it but I suspect it was the IFRA regs at play there. My guess is it is compliant.
    Same. I'm not sure I picked up any oak moss in it. Hard to tell, with all that syrup on top.
    Now Chypre Mousse, that seems to have lots of OM.

  16. #46
    Ursula's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Flushing,NY/USA
    Posts
    743
    Blog Entries
    2

    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    "Chypre Mousse" is lovingly described by Kafka in her blog. According to the pyramid, oakmoss is both in the heart notes and base notes.

    http://akafkaesquelife.wordpress.com...-reve-dossian/

    Now, I wonder, as the firm Oriza L. Legrand claims to have faithfully rendered a close similarity to the original formula, how was that possible with the IFRA regulations?

    At any rate, however much the formula was tweaked, the result is harmonious and beautiful. Modern.
    Last edited by Ursula; 27th January 2014 at 06:30 PM.
    There are no answers, only choices. (Stanislav Lem)

Similar Threads

  1. Chypre Palatin thoughts
    By OctaVariuM in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 3rd March 2013, 04:59 AM
  2. Invasion Barbare and Chypre Palatin question
    By OctaVariuM in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 14th January 2013, 11:06 PM
  3. Article: New from MDCI: Chypre Palatin
    By Grant in forum Article Comments
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 12th June 2012, 04:22 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  



Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000