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  1. #1
    treeman5823
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    Default Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    It smells like CP has a ton of oakmoss. How did Duchaufour do it? Is this just an illusion, or did he disregard IFRA refualtions? Which begs a deeper question: is Parfums MDCI independent from the IFRA?

  2. #2
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Whatever the truth is, one thing is undeniable IMO - Chypre Palatin is a very nice scent.
    Last edited by hednic; 29th March 2013 at 09:41 PM.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    There's detailed info. re. IFRA from the experts in DIY in one of the stickies.
    Be interested to hear more about how this fragrance was made?

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    I actually thought is was oak moss light. I would have loved for it to have had a lot more in it but I suspect it was the IFRA regs at play there. My guess is it is compliant.
    Current Top Favorites:
    1) Portrait of a Lady original formula (EdP Frédéric Malle)
    2) Giorgio for Men vintage/V.I.P. for Men (Giorgio Beverly Hills)
    3) Dia Man vintage edt (Amouage)
    4)
    Anat Fritz Original Formula and Classical (Anat Fritz) - tie
    4) Lalfeorosa (O'driù) - tie

    6)
    Les Nombres d'Or Vetyver (Mona di Orio)
    7) Captain vintage (Molyneux)
    8) Tzora (Anat Fritz)
    9) Javanese Patchouli (Zegna) - tie
    9) Monsieur de Givenchy vintage (Givenchy) - tie
    9) Coeur de Vetiver Sacré (L'Artisan) - tie
    9) X for Men (Clive Christian) - tie
    9) Patou pour Homme Privé (Jean Patou) - tie
    9) Oud Shamash (The Different Company) - tie
    Currently wearing: As Sawira by Penhaligon's

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    If publicly sold they probably need to be for insurance purposes?
    Allergens are listed on labels now it seems - this isn't recent, but interesting anyway:-
    http://www.gcimagazine.com/business/...79.html?page=1
    Last edited by lpp; 29th March 2013 at 09:44 PM.

  6. #6
    treeman5823
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    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Quote Originally Posted by drseid View Post
    I actually thought is was oak moss light. I would have loved for it to have had a lot more in it but I suspect it was the IFRA regs at play there. My guess is it is compliant.
    I'm smelling on my hand right now, and it smells very oakmoss-prominent. Who knows?

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Quote Originally Posted by treeman5823 View Post
    I'm smelling on my hand right now, and it smells very oakmoss-prominent. Who knows?
    Try spraying some vintage Captain by Molyneux on your other side-by-side and see if you still feel the same. ;-)
    Current Top Favorites:
    1) Portrait of a Lady original formula (EdP Frédéric Malle)
    2) Giorgio for Men vintage/V.I.P. for Men (Giorgio Beverly Hills)
    3) Dia Man vintage edt (Amouage)
    4)
    Anat Fritz Original Formula and Classical (Anat Fritz) - tie
    4) Lalfeorosa (O'driù) - tie

    6)
    Les Nombres d'Or Vetyver (Mona di Orio)
    7) Captain vintage (Molyneux)
    8) Tzora (Anat Fritz)
    9) Javanese Patchouli (Zegna) - tie
    9) Monsieur de Givenchy vintage (Givenchy) - tie
    9) Coeur de Vetiver Sacré (L'Artisan) - tie
    9) X for Men (Clive Christian) - tie
    9) Patou pour Homme Privé (Jean Patou) - tie
    9) Oud Shamash (The Different Company) - tie
    Currently wearing: As Sawira by Penhaligon's

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Quote Originally Posted by drseid View Post
    I actually thought is was oak moss light. I would have loved for it to have had a lot more in it but I suspect it was the IFRA regs at play there. My guess is it is compliant.
    I agree. I get light oak moss. Partially for that very reason (it's supposed to be a chypre remember) CP never thrilled me.
    Last edited by Dernier_Cri; 30th March 2013 at 12:54 AM.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    It smells like a new style chypre to me, in the same vein as 31 Rue Cambon. No oak moss, but somehow it creates a chypre-like effect. It's an olfactory illusion, I think.
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  10. #10

    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    I think its okay. To me, the threw some chype top notes to invasion barbare. I preder IB of the two.
    Is the juice worth the squeeze?

  11. #11
    Dependent rubegon's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    I don't see any similarity at all between Invasion Barbare and CP.
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  12. #12
    Dependent OctaVariuM's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Quote Originally Posted by rubegon View Post
    I don't see any similarity at all between Invasion Barbare and CP.
    Agree, but then again I'm not the best at picking out individual notes.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    I get a similar vanillic base. There is definitely something similar or akin to me that reminds me one of the other. However, I do feel they are different enough to warrant both in a collection. I haven't done a note comparison.
    Is the juice worth the squeeze?

  14. #14
    treeman5823
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    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Quote Originally Posted by Scentologist View Post
    I think its okay. To me, the threw some chype top notes to invasion barbare. I preder IB of the two.
    What? Have you even smelled CP? :-)

  15. #15

    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Quote Originally Posted by lpp View Post
    If publicly sold they probably need to be for insurance purposes?
    Allergens are listed on labels now it seems - this isn't recent, but interesting anyway:-
    http://www.gcimagazine.com/business/...79.html?page=1
    No. IFRA is a voluntary association, only members of IFRA need to comply with its rules. AFAIK Parfums MDCI isn't a member: nothing on either the IFRA regional website nor PMDCI's website to indicate as such, either.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Quote Originally Posted by treeman5823 View Post
    What? Have you even smelled CP? :-)
    Yep, have the both. Can you not detect a vanilla in the dry down of both. I've yet to do a side by side but plan to when time permits. The styrax and vanilla is whats akin for me, to my nose.
    Is the juice worth the squeeze?

  17. #17
    treeman5823
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    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Quote Originally Posted by Scentologist View Post
    Yep, have the both. Can you not detect a vanilla in the dry of both. I've yet to do a side by side but plan to when time permits.
    I smell amber, oakmoss, and birch tar, but nothing overtly vanillic.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Quote Originally Posted by treeman5823 View Post
    I smell amber, oakmoss, and birch tar, but nothing overtly vanillic.
    I suppose I'm sensitive to vanilla. I use to hate that note and I can detect it. Recently, I've come to grow found of it and find it comforting when done right as is the case with these fine fragrances and in something like Straight to Heaven. The vanilla doesn't stand out but for me its there and in that case provides good support in the base. This thread has inspired to put a dab on and try to pick the other notes out in singularity. Its so well blended that it can become challenging.
    Is the juice worth the squeeze?

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    I'm really not trying to be "that guy" but if I am, sorry. But shortly into the dry down I think Chypre Palatin becomes little more than an amber fragrance. Labdanum, benzoin and vanilla are all in the pyramid which doesn't necessarily mean anything but to my nose I get lots of amber.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Okay, I'm wearing it now. Definitely different for IB, but I do get the styrax and vanilla right away. It seems that it burns off and tone down to a supporting role. I do detect amber now that I "looking" for it. Interesting.

    I've got IB on the other hand. The lavender pops me straight away and I detect the vanilla. I agree, these are two different scents but they do share vanilla and I suppose I pick up on that regardless of what stage it comes in. Both are very, very good. I've always given the edge to IB but I will continue to test both for some clarity.
    Is the juice worth the squeeze?

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Quote Originally Posted by Scentologist View Post
    Okay, I'm wearing it now. Definitely different for IB, but I do get the styrax and vanilla right away. It seems that it burns off and tone down to a supporting role. I do detect amber now that I "looking" for it. Interesting.
    Styrax (benzoin) is often used to make ambers. So is vanilla. And I think the labdanum is the business note in most ambers and probably the amber note in CP. Just my opinion. I know so many basenoters love amber, but if a fragrance is marketed as a chypre I'm expecting something more like an chypre.
    We have to keep in mind of course that Labdanum is traditionally a fundamental component of the Chypre. Again my nose says, "Amber".
    Last edited by Dernier_Cri; 30th March 2013 at 04:39 AM.

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Quote Originally Posted by OctaVariuM View Post
    Agree, but then again I'm not the best at picking out individual notes.
    Neither am I, but I'm usually not all that interested in plucking out notes. I find it more interesting to consider the overall effect, though its harder to talk about with precision. Note calling is a little like studying a piece of architecture to identify the materials used to construct it rather than experiencing its sense of scale or considering its use of form.

    CP and IB don't have the same feel at all. The overall structure feels completely different.

    It took me a few wears to see it, but IB feels like a fougere, with modern embellishments - like some of the traditional parts of the composition are replaced by weird synthetic analogs that somehow create a comparable effect. Like a Michaelangelo's David wearing composite body armor.

    CP is like a beautiful modern feminine chypre butched up a bit by dialing back the more bosomy floral notes in the opening. The closest things to it for me are 31 Rue Cambon, Acqua di Parma Profumo and Jubilation 25. Later in the development its a sort of sweet and fruity chypre, but a super clean one - none of the earthy/bitter/tart tone of a classic masculine chypre or even vintage Mitsouko. They call it a masculine, but its about as masculine to me as Keira Knightley wearing coveralls and a fake moustache. Don't get me wrong - I love it.

    I guess it's amber in the base of CP - something has to take place of the moss down there. Maybe there are some ambery components in IB too, but lots of perfumes have these components.

    Wasn't it Jacques Guerlain who said that you rarely find a good perfume that does not have vanilla?
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  23. #23

    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Nicely put, rubegon. I have only recently tried Chypre Palatin, like it a lot, waiting a week or so before attempting a review - I did a left / right with some vintage Parure and that was quite interesting . . . I think, like 31 Rue Cambon, it leans in that floral chypre direction for as long as it can, but then Duchaufor has edged over to more of a chypriental vibe to finish it off - smart move given the impossiblity of grounding it with oakmoss. It's still a bit of a moving target for me.

  24. #24
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    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    It's the new world order, MR. They are all doing what they can to survive. It can't be as it was - it has to be something different, but what? I like BDs answer to that question - and he seems to be saying "this is what the chypre will be henceforth!" Will it take the chypre's place as a pillar of perfumery? Who the hell knows?, but I'm enjoying it so far.

    At least until science gives us the ability to perfectly and safely recreate the smell of any deadly poisonous perfume we want and we can love our real chypres and jasmins and heliotropes again.
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  25. #25
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    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Beautiful fragrance. Amazing how he cut the sweets (benzoin especially) with greens, animalics, a little birch tar, whatever. Feels like an intelligent chypre at the core, spread out through the, comfort of an extremely well made oriental. It doesn’t smell animalic but the animalics castoreum and costus give it a lasting fleshy warmth and a smooth, velvety, almost oozing from the pores feel. Never heavy or flat, it has excellent olfactory viscosity and density, soft hands (great touch), the genius of compositional balance to offset any heaviness. Love the trajectory of the thing. In that way it’s similar to great fragrances like Patou pour Homme, etc.

    I don’t compare it with Invasion Barbare other than that they’re both great compositions.

  26. #26
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    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    @Treeman - just fyi - this is what a Perfumer says about IFRA/EEC compliance issues & related stuff in EEC/USA :-

    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/292501-IFRA-Standards-a-summary


    And B/N posted this very interesting interview with Erwin Creed who explains some compliance issues (thanks to all concerned) :-
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJ9W5QURIv8


    which another member kindly posted yesterday here:-
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/339948-Erwin-Creed-on-IFRA-EU-Restriction


    Last edited by lpp; 31st March 2013 at 08:32 AM.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    To my greatest surprise and joy, my country's first niche-oriented shop has just begun carrying the MDCI line. And my three samples are already on the way I'm extremely curious about IB and CP - the third being Ambre Topkapi.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Oakmoss doesn't leap out at me in this one.
    Funnily though, of the new breed 'no oakmoss' chypres, I find Grossmith's Golden Chypre does a fairly convincing job. I assume it is the combination of patchouli and vetiver. Real oakmoss ( to my nose ) shares the eathy characteristics of these.

  29. #29
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    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    I just wanted to comment again and thank rubegon and mr.reasonable for the excellent reading. It's those kinds of conversations that make me want to learn more about perfumery, and keep my interest in the knowledge of basenotes alive.

    I don't really want to turn the thread into a "how I feel about Chypre Palatin" thread, but I'll leave it at something that helped me expand my horizons from the typical fragrances you see around here and elsewhere, and really start challenging myself on some level. I love the stuff, and I wear it anywhere I want with no ill feelings.

  30. #30
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    Default Re: Chypre Palatin and IFRA

    Quote Originally Posted by gandhajala View Post
    Oakmoss doesn't leap out at me in this one.
    Funnily though, of the new breed 'no oakmoss' chypres, I find Grossmith's Golden Chypre does a fairly convincing job. I assume it is the combination of patchouli and vetiver. Real oakmoss ( to my nose ) shares the eathy characteristics of these.
    I was really looking forward to liking Grossmith Golden Chypre after hearing good things about it. (Luckyscent just got it in).
    It was a big disappointment. Perfectly decent but far from anything special chypre or otherwise. And no I didn't think the "no oak moss" concept worked very well here. Too bad.

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